Waffle Wonderland!

I have seen the future of breakfast, and it is emanating out a tiny take-out window at 3610 SE Hawthorne Boulevard here in PDX. Should you find yourself in Portland on a Saturday or Sunday feeling a bit peckish, might I suggest a stop at the "Waffle Window" on the side of Bread & Ink Café. There, every Saturday and Sunday from 9-5, you can try one of Mary Fishback's spot-on Belgian waffles, which w says are exactly like the ones she got at street stalls in Bruges (you know, the one in Belgium!), not too sweet with a perfectly crusty exterior. But you would also be well advised to sample one of her many daily special waffles. After a long walk with Chopper to get to this bit of noshing nirvana, I couldn't resist her pumpkin pie waffle...awesomely decadent and delicious! Mary bakes a crustless pumpkin pie, slides a slice on top of one of her Belgian waffles, surrounds it on the plate with perfectly sweet whipped cream, and a squiggle of homemade caramel sauce. Unbelievable! At $3.50 this was a well-deserved, or so I told myself, reward. And her regular Belgian waffles at two bucks are a walk-away steal. This is absolutely worth your attention, because we all know you deserve it, too!

Having my cake....

We're all different kinds of guys (or girls). You know what I mean. There's "Corvette guy" who is making up for some sort of shortcoming. There's "softball guy", that 35-year-old loser who owns his own softball bat who swears that if his high school baseball coach hadn't fucked him over he'd be batting 3rd for the Red Sox. When it comes to food, there's "scared to eat girl" who swears that food is out to get her; "bad date guy" who complains...loudly...about not being able to get a baked potato at Babbo in NY.

Basically all kinds of people are out there. Especially when it comes to food. Me, I obviously am "will eat anything and lots of it guy". But when it comes to dessert, I am definitely "layer cake guy". I love all desserts. My sweet tooth knows no limits. Especially cakes. Maybe it's all those homey associations I make from the smell of my mom's baking cakes wafting through the house. Wanting to be the one to lick the frosting off the beater blades. Luckily for me w is "likes to bake cakes girl", and the following bit of baked deliciousness has quickly shot to the top of my cakes-to-eat-for-my-last-meal list. I saw this fabulous pumpkin cake on one of my favorite food sites, Leite's Culinaria. I showed it to w and she said, "Hm, maybe I'll make it." I replied, channeling Montgomery Burns, "EXCELLENT"!

We've had it twice now, the most recent last Sunday with friends, and this cake kills! The cakey part is moist and pumpkiney, and the maple cream cheese frosting is completely out of control. Holy shit, it is a childhood dream come true! We've had some leftover frosting in the fridge, and I've been dipping my finger into it and eating it that way. Yeah, that good!! So if you're ever invited to a cake smackdown, may I suggest the clicking on this link!

One note: w has found that mixing the cake batter by hand makes for a more airy, less dense cake, which for this recipe we both prefer. A little more work, but well worth the effort!
*photo in upper left courtesy of Leite's Culinaria

A bowl of happiness!

Even with as much pride as I take in my iron constitution and my bodies ability to withstand regular overindulgences of too much rich food, innumerable taco cart tacos & burritos, too many cocktails, and those pesky bottles of wine that go down far too easily, sometimes even I have to take a break and simplify. Last night was just such an instance, and besides on a chilly November evening a bowl of homemade soup sounded just about perfect. Oh, and I did happen to have a bottle of 2005 white Burgundy that needed sampling, and I knew it would kill with this potato-leek soup. Best of all, after a quick ten minute stop at New Seasons I had everything I needed for this easy to prepare, easy to make, and deliciously satisfying bowl of comfort food. This is a snap, and I'm amazed that something so easy can be so good. It can also be altered for those pesky vegetarian friends of yours (or just tell them you used veggie broth...they'll never know!!). It also has this really pleasing pale green color that I have to say is very attractive, because we all eat with or eyes first, right?
So that was it. In about 30 minutes max I had a healthy bowl of soup, bread, a couple or three glasses of great wine. My body and my mind were both quite happy!

Oh, and speaking of the wine it was pretty damn good, too. A 2005 Bouchard Puilly-Fuisse that was creamy, with honeyed-butter and flower aromas and flavors. Great texture, perfect balance. Those Frenchies have a pretty good handle on chardonnay!
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LEEK AND POTATO SOUP
adapted from epicurious
serves 4

ingredients
3 tablespoons butter
3 large leeks (white and pale green parts only), halved lengthwise,
thinly sliced (about 4 1/2 cups)
2 large russet potatoes (about 18 ounces total), peeled, diced
4 1/2 cups (or more) chicken stock or canned low-salt broth
Salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

method
1- Melt butter in heavy large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks; stir to coat with butter. Cover saucepan; cook until leeks are tender, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes. Cover and cook until potatoes begin to soften but do not brown, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add 4 1/2 cups stock. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes.

2- Puree soup in batches in blender or processor until smooth. Return to saucepan. Thin with additional stock if soup is too thick. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. (Soup can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Bring soup to simmer. Ladle into bowls. Garnish with chives and serve.

**cooks notes: If you use store bought chicken stock brring it to a boil and reduce by about a fifth (start with 5 to 5-12 cups). It really intensifies the flavor and adds richness to the soup. I use an upright blender rather than a food processor with my soups. Nothing gives a velvety, palate pleasing texture like a blender (not even hand blenders do as good a job).

I interrupt your thoughts of your next meal....

I have a big favor to ask of you guys. For about ten minutes I want all of you to put aside your food obsessions. Just for a few minutes. I know, I know, it's scary, but this is worth it. I promise.

I was doing some "research" recently at the New York Times website (aka reading the best newspaper in America...online...for FREE) and came across this story about a couples adoption of a Chinese baby. Now, there are virtually zero newspaper stories that make me a little...um, misty. Outraged? Angry? Bewildered about my fellow humans? Sure. It's not that I'm a hard ass or anything. As I've told my friends, I'm like the target audience for tearjerker movies, commercials, etc. But in the paper, we're pretty much used to all the crazy, insane shit being reported. You become kind of numb to it. Then I come across this piece, so well written, so touching, so sweet, that it just sat me back in my seat for about five minutes after finishing.

Check it out. I'd love to know what you think.

btw- all stories at the NYT site are free to read. Just register...no spam will come your way.

Warming up to cold weather

You can feel it in the air, can't you? Nights getting colder. Leaves falling. Sidelong glances at your Le Creuset or other braising pot of choice. In my kitchen, they're calling out their siren song and I'm listening. You all know what I mean. Well, excepting you all who live in warmer climes, who probably have no idea what I'm trying to say. Is it ever braising season in Phoenix? I mean, it's going to be 90 degrees there today! These must be zero incentive to throw some meat in your 380 degree oven for three or four hours. All I can say to them is "Poor bastards", because I LOVE this time of year.

Sunday was a perfect day to share some of that love with a group of friends. And what says "I care" more than a 4-1/2 pound hunk of chuck roast that has been cooking in the oven for several hours? For a dinner party, there is nothing easier than a long, slow braise. Not only is the prep incredibly easy, but that long cooking time allows plenty of time to get everything else working and ready for your guests. This recipe for Barolo Braised Beef is a dish I made for the first time late last winter, and it rocked the table. For something so easy, this is guaranteed to get huge praise from your pals.

Before I get to the instructional part of this missive, a note on the name. Barolo braised beef. Rule 1: Don't use Barolo!! My $40 bottles of red wine generally don't end up in a cooking pot. Any rich, full-bodied wine will work. I used an awesome Languedoc red from France ($11.95). According to Bill Buford in his book "Heat", at Mario Batali's Babbo in NYC, they use cheap merlot in their "Barolo" braised beef. Now that I've saved you all that money, here's the goods.....

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BAROLO BRAISED BEEF
adapted from epicurious

ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (3- to 3 1/2-lb) boneless beef chuck roast
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 lb sliced pancetta, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 (4- to 6-inch) sprigs fresh thyme
2 (6- to 8-inch) sprigs fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups Barolo or other full-bodied red
2 cups water
*Special equipment: a 4- to 5-qt heavy ovenproof pot with lid

mise en place (aka prep)...the key to stress free cooking!










method
1- Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325°F.

2-Heat oil in pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Meanwhile, pat meat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brown meat in hot oil on all sides, about 10 minutes total. (If bottom of pot begins to scorch, lower heat to moderate.) Transfer to a plate using a fork and tongs.

Sautéeing the flavoring agents. Getting closer..........







3- Add pancetta to oil in pot and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until browned and fat is rendered, about 3 minutes. Add onion, carrot, and celery and sauté, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add garlic, thyme, and rosemary and sauté, stirring, until garlic begins to soften and turn golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine and boil until liquid is reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Add water and bring to a simmer, then return meat along with any juices accumulated on plate to pot. Cover pot with lid and transfer to oven. Braise until meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

All that's left: slicing, reducing, consuming!









4- Transfer meat to a cutting board. Skim fat from surface of sauce and discard along with herb stems. Boil sauce until reduced by about one third, about 8-10 minutes, then season with salt. Cut meat across the grain into 1/2-inch-thick slices, arrange on platter, pour most of sauce generously on top and serve remaining sauce in bowl.

*Cooks' note: Beef improves in flavor if made 3 days ahead. Cool completely in sauce, uncovered, then chill in sauce, covered. Reheat, covered, in a preheated 350°F oven until hot, 25 to 30 minutes, then slice meat.

"Scientists let loose in the kitchen, diners rejoice!"

Two things I can't do in my kitchen:
1- Deep fry mayonnaise
2- Make foie gras knots
But that doesn't mean I don't want to eat them. And apparently some high end chefs, notable Wylie DuFresne of NYC's WD-50, think others do to. Read about their restaurant kitchens as science labs in this article in the New York Times.

Mexican Medication!

After last nights food and drink fest (check out tomorrow's post for the best Barolo Braised Beef recipe you will ever make!), I not only am appreciating my day off, but am also very grateful to be a five minute drive from my preferred big-night recovery method, which is indulging my fetish for taco trucks/trailers/carts/whatever.

My friend Chris had clued me in to the south of the border noshes to be had at El Brasero in the burgeoning food cart mecca in the parking lot at SE 12th and SE Hawthorne here in PDX. He shares my passion for all things wrapped in corn tortillas and any accompanying bites, and has been talking up the barbacoa tacos and chicken tamales for weeks. So today, desperately in need of "Mexican medication" I drove on down. It was gloriously sunny and warm at their outdoor table, and the food was everything I could have wanted. I scarfed down the two pastor and two barbacoa tacos, perfect bites at a little under two bucks each. Okay, the pastor was a little dry, but the barbacoa scored huge. And the tamale was rocking, softly moist, yet firm to the fork, steamed to perfection in the golden corn husks. They also make their own fabulous salsa verde to add a little burn and get the head back on straight.

Pastor and barbacoa tacos, lined up for my eating pleasure!










The perfect tamale!











Man, I dig food cart love. What a great way to eat. Cheap, fast, and marginally out of control. Bring 'em on!

Minimal(ist) effort...Maximum reward

After the eat/drink fest that was our weekend in San Francisco, we came back home needing something, anything, lighter. Who better to consult than Mark Bittman, whose "Minimalist" column in the New York Times almost always delivers clean, flavorful, and easy to prepare dishes. I saw this fish recipe a couple of weeks ago, and couldn't wait to get cooking.

Bittman used monkfish in his recipe, but he said you could also sub any other firm fleshed fish (he suggested red snapper or sea bass). Here in p.c. Portland, monkfish is a little hard to come by. I stopped by Trader Joe's to check out their selection, and they had packages of frozen wild caught mahi-mahi filets. They were the perfect size, and turned out wonderfully. The fish really picked up an infusion of thyme and garlic flavor during the quick oven roast. Next time through, I think I'll try red snapper, something a little less firm, as in his recipe description Bittman said part of the appeal of the preparation is how the fish melds with the mashers, turning into sort of a soft fishcake. Whatever you use, this was really satisfying on every level. And it was super easy to prepare, and very much worth the minimal(ist) effort expended!

************************

Monkfish With Mashed Potatoes and Thyme
from The New York Times/Mark Bittman
4 servings
Time: 30 minutes

ingredients :
1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup milk, or as needed
Several sprigs fresh thyme
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3or 4 cloves crushed garlic
1 1/2 pounds monkfish, in 1 or 2 pieces, trimmed.

method :
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Put potatoes in a saucepan with water to cover. Add a large pinch of salt. Cook potatoes until quite tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and put through a ricer or food mill, or mash with a fork or potato masher. Add butter, milk, a few thyme leaves, and salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm in the oven or reheat in a microwave when ready to serve.

2. While potatoes cook, or immediately after they are done, put an ovenproof skillet large enough to accommodate monkfish over medium-high heat. After a minute, add the oil, garlic, a couple of thyme sprigs and then fillets. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook for about a minute, then without turning, transfer to oven.

3. Roast until monkfish is cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes depending on its thickness. (It will be tender but still firm when done; a thin-bladed knife will meet consistent light resistance when inserted in its center.) Reheat potatoes if necessary, then serve monkfish browned side up on top of them, garnished with a little more thyme and pan juices.

*note: we served some quick sautéed rainbow chard on the side.

As long as you're in town.....

Since I know you have to do something else besides eat at NOPA, here's four more new favorite things to do in San Francisco (plus one old favorite)...

1- PRESIDIO YACHT CLUB. This semi-rundown yacht club...but in a cool, old school sort of way...is where the wedding reception took place (the actual wedding took place on a boat out in SF Bay on an exceptional, war, sunny afternoon. Most awesome!). It's at Fort Baker, under the north end of the Golden Gate Bridge. Besides being open on Fri-Sat-Sun to the public (call ahead to make sure they don't have any private events happening) for great, cheap, strong drinks and good draft beer, this place has a unbelievable view of the bay and bridge (at left is the view from their deck) that other bars would kill for. It takes about 15-25 minutes to get there from downtown, and is so worth the drive. I'm courting family trouble by giving away one of w's sisters favorite places, and I have mixed emotions because I would hate to see it get too popular, but this is just too good.

2- 24TH STREET CHEESE COMPANY. Should you find yourself in Noe Valley and in need of some snacking/picnic material, this is a fabulous cheese shop with an awesome selection of cheeses, plus wine, crackers, bread, etc. Everything you need for your outing, in one very well run stop. The staff was vry nice, helpful, and more than willing to sample some of their unusual, delicious cheeses.


3- STORE FRONT DIM SUM IN CHINATOWN. How have I never done this? Stop in one of these innumerable places, check out their selections, point to what you want (or if you're lucky like me, you're with someone who speaks Cantonese. Thanks sweetie...my tummy appreciates your native language skills), and get ready to eat for an insanely cheap price. At my favorite stop, You's Dim Sum, we had shared four different, really good bites (including a fresh out of the kitchen pork bun...yum!!) for just $3.30. On a sunny early afternoon of wandering, there's no better way to eat!

4- LUNCH AT JEANTY AT JACK'S. Before we had to head to the airport, w, sis, and I had lunch at this city outpost of Philippe Jeanty's Yountville restaurant. So very French, so very delicious. Perfect escargots, a terrific steak frites, and the best coq au vin I've had maybe ever. The bottle of '06 Sancerre went down pretty well , too!

5- COCKTAILS AT BIX. Classy but not stuffy, perfect negronis, martinis, and glasses of fizz. Any place that has separate cocktail glasses for their gin and vodka up cocktails works for me. The three of us went after lunch at Jeanty, and what a way to send ourselves off. I could spend waaaay too much time at this bar!

NOPA-roblem!!

Today and tomorrow a few tips for all of you who may have trips planned to San Francisco anytime in the near future...or for that matter if you live there and this is new news. w and I just got back from her sister's wedding/drinking & eating fest there, and it was an awesome weekend, filled of course with massive amounts of ingestibles. Starting with one of the best meals I've ever had in "the City", today's highlight (with a couple more coming tomorrow).....

*************************
If you know your dates, or if you have a free evening coming up, may I suggest you get on the phone immediately and make reservations at NOPA. Our friend Amy here in Portland turned us on to this incredible place, and it was spectacular!

w giving off some Edward Hopper vibe at Club Deluxe.






Here's how we got to the end of this food marathon: We had rezzies at NOPA for 8, so of course a drink beforehand was in order. We headed to Club Deluxe, a small indie bar at the intersection of Haight/Ashbury. By the way, are the people in this 'hood ever going to get over the 60s or 70s? I mean, how many "smoke" shops do you need in one block? Anyway, Club Deluxe was a really cool retro bar and they served a pretty decent drink, although I would really like my gin gimlet with fresh lime rather than Rose's. Still, a nice spot for a little mood setting moment. Then it was off for a 20 block drive and the usual parking spot derby at NOPA...but where in SF is parking not a nightmare?













The Old Cuban being prepared for our drinking pleasure...slurpy! And the adult refreshment area!

So we showed up about 15 minutes early for our reservation, and since all the bar stools were full, we ended up on the corner back by the open kitchen. Turned out to be very serendipitous. We were slurping a couple of most satisfying drinks, including something they call an Old Cuban, which is kind of a riff on the mojito, not only very attractive but WAY delicious. Standing just at my back was the guy who was expediting orders out of the kitchen. I figured if anyone could give us menu guidance, he was our man. So when he had a break, I turned and asked what we should be taking a look at. Instead of giving me the "look, dude, I'm really busy right now" vibe, he couldn't have been nicer. Shoulda known it was NOPA owner Laurance Jossel who was working it right behind me. Very cool guy, incredibly proud of his locally sourced, organic ingredients, and the best menu guide we could've hoped for. After soaking in his wisdom we headed for our table to soak up our remaining cocktails and starters of Olive Oil Poached Albacore Tuna; a salad of Fuyu Persimmon, Peppercress, Walnuts, Pomegranates, and Blue Cheese; and their Flatbread of House Smoked Bacon, Caramelized Onions, Gruyere, and Radicchio which the guy sitting directly to me left was pimping hard. Turns out he was a good guy to listen to, as he was Ravi Kapur, who when he's not chowing down at NOPA is chef de cuisine (meaning he runs the kitchen) at SF icon Boulevard. Again a super nice guy to talk to, and he was spot on about the flatbread, which was like getting a whole smoky, piggy pizza. Also, the poached tuna absolutely killed, and I thought it was the best of the starters (although the others were excellent as well). Oh, and Laurence also sent us over a side of their über-delicious french fries with a roasted red pepper-feta dip that were really nice. A little thicker cut, yet crisp outside and perfectly ender, and not to be too redundant, but very potato-ey inside. Plus there is no fear of salt here, which is always a good thing!

The Olive Oil Poached Tuna starter.






Then it was time to turn our attention to the main events, in w's case a plate of Duck Leg Confit and Seared Duck Breast. w is a huge confit fan, but in this case the duck breast rocked the plate...so tender, perfectly cooked, Whoever's raising his bird is doing it right. Then of course there was my Country Pork Chop with Scarlet Runner Beans, Philo Gold Apples, and Greens which Laurence had been pushing when I was up at the counter, and Ravi chimed in about how good it was. Since I'm usually not one to argue with world class chefs, I went with it. Holy shit!! This shoulder cut chop was THE BEST piece of roast pork I've put in my mouth. So succulent and tender, savory and set off perfectly by the tender cooked Philo apples. Crazy!!

Pigging out on the Country Pork Chop...awesome!!







Just ducky!





Then of course since too much is never enough, we went with dessert. One of the items on the menu, their Caramelized Apple and Cheddar Crisp also came with a scoop of Parmigiano-Reggiano Gelato, so you know I had to try that. Pretty out there with the Parma gelato, but not bad. We also ordered the pear Upside Down Cake with Honey Mascarpone which was a sensual knockout, and by mistake they also sent out a Pecan Tart with Salted Caramel Ice Cream. It actually was an error by our waiter, but when we pointed out that we hadn't ordered it, Laurence was basically "ah screw it, send it over" so he did and we LOVED it. Pecan pie on steroids, and the salted ice cream was so luscious...again, crazy stuff!

Oh, and the very well chosen wine list was filled with interesting bottles, both red and white, for any budget. I took along a bottle of 2000 Westrey "Reserve" Pinot Noir that was drinking absolutely perfectly and was well worth NOPA's $20 corkage fee.

You can really taste the local love in this food, not only in Laurence's culinary skill set, but in the customer vibe, too. Apparently NOPA is also a fave with local chefs, because when Ravi left, into his seat plopped the pastry chef from local hotspot Crush. When other restaurants are giving Chef-love it's always a good indicator, and this is place you've got to be hitting. Major thanks and props to Laurence and his wife/partner for treating us so well, and making some of the best SF chow I've ever had!!

The NOPA entrée menu (click on image to enlarge)

Where's the beef? Not here!

No one....wait, make that NO ONE...loves a good hamburger more than I do. Locally, I totally get off on the beefy discs served up at Castagna (the best...and the fries...holy shit!!) and new entrant Cava over on SE Foster. But since I get most of my beef burger on at those and other spots, at home w and I are huge fans of the occasional turkey burger, of course grilled over some charcoal year 'round. But you can't just go and buy some ground turkey at your local market, flatten a few burgers out, cook the shit out of it, and expect any sort of reward.

Turkey, as I hope everyone knows, is a culinary vehicle that needs other tasty bits along for the ride to give it some flavor interest. Imagine your thanksgiving bird with no herbs, salt, or pepper, just slapped down on the table all pale and unappealing. Same goes for t-burgers. On the other hand, you don't want to do to throw too much paint on that blank canvas or you'll end up with a very unappealing mess, the edible equivalent of a Jackson Pollack painting (okay, I admit it, I just don't get his stuff. I can't believe a paint laden five year old throwing a temper tantrum couldn't come up with something close.), with no turkey flavor showing under the culinary confusion. So with that, may I humbly suggest the following all-to-easy, and oh-so-satisfying, solution. I paired mine with a green salad and my beloved roast fingerling potatoes.
********************

Chopper's Favorite Turkey Burger
makes 3 burgers

ingredients:
1 pound ground turkey, preferably all dark meat
3 tablespoons barbeque sauce
3/8 teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and pepper
Good buns....they're worth it, okay? Besides, the rest is so cheap, it's worth the upgrade!

method:
In a medium bowl mix ground turkey with barbeque sauce and garlic powder. Form 3 patties about 1/2" thick. Liberally salt and pepper both sides. Grill over high for about four minutes per side for medium (medium rare turkey burgers are not too appealing, but also neither are overdone hockey pucks). When done to desired doneness, remove from heat and let rest on a plate, loosely covered with foil. While burgers rest, toast buns over fire.

The rest is up to you, as turkey burgers take well to all the usual beef burger condiments!

You CAN always get what you want.......

What if you could have whatever you wanted, whenever you wanted? Imagine the possibilities. GWB would wake up one morning and decide to "establish" yet another democracy and alienate the other half of the world without any pesky questions. Senator Larry Craig could have the run of airport restrooms around the country where he could "borrow more toilet paper". And for a long time I would gladly have had at my beck and call a plate of Portland's 3 Doors Down Café's iconic dish of Penne alla Vodka, the best version of this homey Italian classic I have ever had. Sadly, for so long it was not to be, and I could only have it at the restaurant. I would go there for one of my regular visits and ignore the rest of the menu, which is awesome by the way, just so I could get my fix. Then one day a couple of years ago, I was looking up their phone number on their website, and came across the "recipe" tab. Hmm.....one click later, magically the rest of their menu opened up to me, because now I can make my beloved 3DD PaV at home! Now I could actually try something else on their menu when I walked in their doors. Just so you know, nobody knows roast chicken like chef/owner Dave Marth!

Yesterday, I found myself with the 3 hours necessary to make this staggeringly luscious and addictive pasta for dinner, and once again I blessed Al Gore for inventing the internet so I could make this discovery. And with all due respect to Mick Jagger, sometimes you can always get what you want!

If you're looking for a pasta dish that is guaranteed to make your friends worship your culinary skills, this is it. It's incredibly easy, and the reward given to effort expended ratio is off the charts!
********************
Penne alla Vodka
from 3 Doors Down Cafe

ingredients
1 Cup Vodka
6 Mild Italian Link Sausages
1 Cup Whipping Cream
2 Tbl Unsalted Butter
1 & 1/2 Tbl Tomato Paste
1 Medium Onion, Chopped
1 Lb Penne Pasta
1 Tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1 Cup Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese
56 Oz Canned Italian Tomatoes
Fresh, Chopped Oregano, For Sprinkling

method
In a large pot, bring water to boil. Add the sausage links and boil for 10 minutes. Remove the links and set aside. In a heavy-bottomed sauté pan or skillet, melt the butter and add onion and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium-low heat until onion is translucent. Stir in the whole tomatoes with liquid and simmer for one hour. Add the sausage links and vodka and continue to cook at a simmer for another hour. Turn the heat to high, add cream and tomato paste and stir constantly for 10 minutes. Reduce to simmer and continue to cook for another 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to boil in a large pot. Drop the pasta in the boiling water and cook, stirring frequently until molto al dente (about 1 minute from al dente-which is tender but firm to the bite). Drain well and toss pasta and sauce in casserole dish with 2/3 cup grated cheese. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle the remaining 1/3 cup cheese on top. Sprinkle with oregano and serve. Make sure to serve with a nice crusty Italian como or ciabatta bread for dunking in the sauce. We like to drizzle a tiny bit of extra virgin Olive oil over the top right before serving. This is a great dish for company.

The Kindness of Strangers

So it's cranking here at the wine shack, it's 2pm and I haven't had anything to eat since my 9am apple. My blood sugar has dropped below the limits set by my body for civil behavior to others. Meltdown is moments away, reason is being abandoned, and physical attacks against customers are an all too real possibility. Then, out of nowhere, my savior appears in the form of Cory, who bestowed the chocolatey discs of deliciousness that you see to the left. Now I've never met Cory before, but somehow she divined my desperation. Apparently she lives in the neighborhood, reads my occasional rants in this space, and wanted to share her particular skill set and thought I might like these. Um, Cory...when you read this...I LOVE these! For a stranger to do something like that is pretty awesome, but when that stranger just had a new baby a week ago, and somehow found time between recovering from childbirth, feeding and changing the baby, not sleeping, and keeping track of her other kid, I've gotta say I'm pretty knocked out. So Cory, since sharing is caring, bring me your cookie recipe to post here, because these are SO good that I think others would enjoy them, don't you? Oh, and thanks!

********************
10/22/07
Cory came through on her comment below, but to save you a couple clicks, here's the recipe:

World Peace Cookies
(Chocolate chunk butter cookies with sea salt)
from Dorie Geenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours

ingredients:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt1 teaspoon pure vanilla
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chips, or a generous 3/4 cup store-bought mini-chocolate chips

method:

Sift the flour, cocoa and baking soda together.

Working with a stand mixer, preferably fitted with a paddle attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the butter on medium speed until soft and creamy. Add both sugars, the salt and vanilla and beat for 2 minutes more.

Turn off the mixer. Pour in the dry ingredients, drape a kitchen towel over the stand mixer to protect yourself and your kitchen from flying flour and pulse the mixer at low speed about 5 times, a second or two each time. Take a peek; if a lot of flour is still on the surface of the dough, pulse a couple of times more; if not, remove the towel. Continuing at low speed, mix for about 30 seconds more, just until the flour disappears into the dough. For the best texture, work the dough as little as possible once the flour is added, and don't be concerned if the dough looks a little crumbly. Toss in the chocolate pieces and mix only to incorporate.

Turn the dough out onto a work surface, gather it together and divide it in half. Working with one half at a time, shape the dough into logs that are 11/2 inches in diameter. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. If you've frozen the dough, you needn't defrost it before baking -- just slice the logs into cookies and bake the cookies 1 minute longer.)

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment or silicone mats.

Using a sharp, thin knife, slice the logs into rounds that are 1/2 inch thick. (The rounds are likely to crack as you're cutting them; don't be concerned, just squeeze the bits back onto each cookie.) Arrange the rounds on the baking sheets, leaving about 1 inch between them.

Bake the cookies one sheet at a time for 12 minutes -- they won't look done, nor will they be firm, but that's just the way they should be; they'll firm up and become more sandy-crumbly as they cool. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack and let the cookies rest until they are only just warm, at which point you can serve them or let them reach room temperature.

Getting Juiced!

When it comes to cooking or making your favorite refreshing juice-based cocktail, efficiency is key. Efficiency, and for those of us without dishwashers, ease of cleaning. I don't usually pimp products here, but ever since I saw this in Gourmet I wanted it. Plus I admit to a certain unhealthy fascination with new kitchen gadgets. Then a few weeks ago w came walking in the door with one after a Target shopping spree, and after one use I was a believer. Sure, I'd like one of those fancy countertop juicers, but at a couple hundred bucks a pop my money is better spent elsewhere, like on more food and Tanqueray! Plus they take up valuable counter space, and in our square foot deprived kitchen, every inch counts. At ten bucks a pop it's ridiculously cheap, and with its non-skid rubberized bottom, clean pouring, and super ease of clean up, very well thought out. And it beats the hell out my my hand reamer, where I was left fishing seeds out of the juice when I was done. Trust me, get one, and you can thank me later!

Marcella Rules!

If Marcella says it's her favorite fish dish, then who am I to argue? Oh, for the uninitiated, uncaring, and people who need a drastic upgrade in their quality of life, that would be Marcella Hazan, goddess of all that is Italian and edible. I was paging through the September '07 issue of Food & Wine in bed the other night before sleep so I could dream about my next meal and came across her recipe for Marinated Fish with Salmoriglio Sauce. Apparently about 30 years ago Marcella and hubby Victor, no slouch himself in the kitchen and wine cellar, were on Sicily in the resort town of Taormina and came across this dish which knocked her support hose off. No mean feat. She says ever since that first revelatory bite it's been a staple in her home, her classes, everywhere. That's good enough for me, so tonight it was time to put it to the test. Bottom line, score another one for Marcella! The salmoriglio sauce had this perfumey aroma from the fresh thyme, with that nice lemon juice and dijon tang and rich, creamy flavor. We had it with halibut, but I think it would be even better with fresh wild-caught salmon or swordfish. Plus, this was a super easy recipe and gave huge return on little effort. Immediately a regular in my repertoire, I can't wait to make it again.
Oh, and I opened a bottle of Meursault "Les Clous" with it, because I brought one home form the wine shack that I had to try. Now I am pretty much a white Burgundy slut, and if I'm slurping chardonnay, I want it to be just like this. Rich, creamy, butterscotchy-apple flavors, brilliant acidity and presence on the palate, which a sauce this flavorful needs. Not my everyday drinker, but it was here and needed my attention!

Salmoriglio sauce











********************

Marinated Fish with Salmoriglio Sauce
from Marcella Hazan
serves 4

ingredients
For Fish:
White vinegar
2 pounds fish fillets, such as wild salmon, arctic char, ruby trout or halibut, with or without skin. Salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup fine, dry bread crumbs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salmoriglio Sauce:
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

method
1. Prepare the Fish: Pour a little vinegar over the fish fillets, then rinse them under cold, running water. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels and arrange them on an ovenproof glass or ceramic platter. Rub a little salt over the skinless sides of the fillets and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Spread half of the bread crumbs over the fillets and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil; turn the fillets and repeat with the remaining bread crumbs and olive oil. Cover and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, make the Salmoriglio Sauce: In a mini food processor, combine the thyme leaves, lemon juice, mustard and salt. Pulse for 1 minute. Add the butter and process until completely smooth. With the machine on, add the olive oil in a thin, constant stream until fully incorporated. Season the sauce with salt and pour into a sauceboat.
3. Preheat the oven to 400° or light a grill. Bake the fish on the platter until just cooked through, about 12 to 15 minutes. Alternatively, grill the fish, skin side down for skin-on fillets, for about 5 minutes; turn the fillets and grill just until they flake, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer the fish to a platter. Pour the salmoriglio sauce over the fish fillets and serve.

Portland to the Piedmont in one night!

I'm back from blog-hiatus, and with a stellar offer for all of you living in Portland. For the rest of you, should you find yourselves with plans to visit our fair city, pay attention. Here's the deal: In the next five minutes or so you spend reading this, you can have an extra $3,000 in your pocket! I know, pretty fucking crazy, right? Check it out....

About four months ago w and I took a trip to the Piedmont region of Italy for some serious eating and drinking research. The wine was incredible, and the Piedmontese cuisine was completely off the hook. We pine for it all the time. Including a few days in the Cinque Terre and five days in Paris (BTW-you can read all the delicious details by going back in the blog archives to late April/early May 2007), and the fact that our wallets were bludgeoned by the Euro-dollar beatdown, we dropped a few thousand each. Any of you with plans for the same trip, get your finances in order. So what about that 3G savings deal? Here's all you have to do: Get in your car, drive about 10-20 minutes out to 6440 SW Capitol Highway here in PDX, and dig in to owner/chef Kurt Spak's dead-on Piedmontese creations at his sublimely satisfying restaurant Alba Osteria. This is food as good as anything you'll eat in town, and measures up to the best meals we had on our Italian sojourn.

Where to begin? How about with a couple of glasses of fizzy prosecco and a dish of perfectly prepared fritto misto, lightly battered and fried Willapa Bay oysters and shrimp with a fennel salad. Then to go old/new school surf and turf, we also had a plate of Kurt's exceptional carne cruda, which is fresh, lean, raw chopped beef with lemon, olive oil, and Reggiano. Why most chefs seem to fear this dish and lack faith in their customers sense of adventure I have no idea. Our waiter Jeff said they sell tons of it, so obviously it's not a customer problem. And besides, it is something I LOVE, so get with it you guys!

We followed those 2 plates of satisfaction with their baked sweet peppers with Oregon albacore, anchovy, and olive oil. This was fantastic, beautifully presented, perfectly balanced. And with a glass of Arneis, the signature white from the Piedmont, it was swoon-worthy.

Now, when we were in the Piedmont, we had some crazy multi-course feasts that went on for two to three hours, which is the only way you can eat that much food. We were going for the same effect at Alba, and next time I think I'd tell Kurt we wee in no hurry, and space the dishes a little further apart. I know most Americans freak out if one plate doesn't slap down on the table the moment they're done with their last dish, but with this kind of cooking, it's all about pace, taking the time to enjoy each bite, and the nuances and subtleties of flavor. Even without that pacing, we were going for it this night, so our next plate out was a shared dish of ricotta gnocchi with chanterelles and cream. Oh, man, perfectly pillowy gnocchis blanketed in a luscious mushroom cream sauce that made me want to curl up with them. So good, not heavy at all, just seasonal satisfaction at it's finest.

There was more on the menu, so we had to keep going. w had their fish special of mushroom stuffed trout which she loved, but sadly by then couldn't finish due to all the indulgence. I had the Alba pork fest, aka an incredible plate of slow roasted pork belly, cotechino sausage, and a Grive Monferrato which was an amazing pork and pork liver sausage patty. All this served with some silky smooth potato puree. Oh, and I had brought a bottle out of the archives of 1997 Ausario Barbaresco that was perfection, slowly opening to reveal it's rich, ripe, earthy blackberry fruit. Wow!

Then, despite w's admittedly weak objections because she loves it as much as I do, we had his gelato trio. Three scoops of house made hazelnut, vanilla, and caramel gelato that were creamy goodness defined, and left us stuffed, satisfied, and deciding that if we can't be in Italy, this isn't a bad way to go.

We talked with Kurt for a few minutes on our way out, and you can't help but feel his passion and commitment. He takes regular trips to the Piedmont with his sous chef to recharge and keep up with what's happening, and then comes back and dishes it like nobody else. This is the best Italian food in town, and as good as anything I've had at any Italian restaurant in the country. Yeah, it's that good. Plus, those 3G's in my pocket are feeling pretty good!

Props for Portland!

More words of praise for PDX from the New York Times* dining section this morning. For those of us who live here, and live to eat, tell us something we don't know. For those of you who read this, bet you're hungry and making travel plans when you're done!


*As I've said before, the registration feature that makes the NYT online edition available for free is a ridiculous opportunity to read the best paper in the U.S. No spam emails, nothing but info. And on Wednesdays, the best food section in the country!

Like an addiction is a bad thing.....

Like any good addiction, it built slowly. First, one box bought at my local farmer's market was enough. Then, by mid week I was jonesing again, and found myself walking away from the Viridian Farms stand with two boxes. Last Saturday, on my way to the market, I was actually starting to sweat, feeling a little panicky that they might be out by the time I got there and I wouldn't get my fix. I jumped out of the car, practically running to the Viridian Farms stand, only feeling relief upon seeing box after box of the cute, wrinkly little green gems known as pimientos de padron lined up on their counter. Knowing others were coming for dinner, I bought the largest box they had, my sense of well being intact as I wandered around the rest of the market, feeling its reassuring weight in my shopping bag.

I'm telling you, one taste of these late summer miracles will have you anticipating your next hook up as much as I do. This is the easiest, tastiest, most crowd pleasing appetizer you could ever serve. If they're not in your local market, well, I can only feel for your half empty lives. Me, I'm feeling pretty smug, as the folks at Viridian said they'd be around until the first frost. Imagine, WEEKS of satisfaction ahead!

If you're reading this in PDX, you can get them at the Viridian Farms stand at the downtown Saturday and Wednesday markets. If you're reading this and you live elsewhere, maybe they can overnight you some. It's worth it, I promise!!

The finished product, awaiting consumption!














******************

Sautéed Pimientos de Padron

ingredients:
1 dozen, more or less, pimientos de padron
olive oil
coarse sea salt (available at most markets. I get mine at Trader Joe's- BB)

method:
Pour olive oil to barely coat bottom of nonstick sauté pan, then add a smidge more. Heat oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add peppers, toss some sea salt on top, and sauté until brown and white marks appear, about four or five minutes. Serve immediately, using the stems as convenient little handles.

Give me a fish......

"Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will eat for the rest of his life" is an old Chinese proverb. Give me a fish from ABC Seafood out on SE Powell Boulevard here in PDX, and I'll like a king for a night, and as long as ABC keeps in touch with those who do the fishing for them, the rest of my life looks pretty sweet!

I saw the following recipe for crispy sea bass in Mark Bittman's book "How To Cook Everything". I had never attempted to crisp a fish of any kind, so in the interest of broadening my horizons while at the same time satisfying my constant hunger, I headed out to ABC, where they had a perfectly fresh specimen that they thoughtfully cleaned and scaled for me, because as much as I like to play with my food, the idea of pulling out fish entrails and having fish scales flying around my kitchen wasn't too appealing. Besides, the woman at ABC did in about two minutes what would have been for me an endeavor that would have completely demoralized me while at the same time hacking apart this beautiful piece if piscine goodness.

So here it is. A very easy, satisfying dinner with no emotional trauma involved. Just the way I like it!
********************

Crispy Sea Bass with Garlic-Ginger Sauce
From Mark Bittman's "How To Cook Everything"

Time: 30 minutes

ingredients
Vegetable oil as needed
2 black sea bass, each about one pound, gutted and scaled with heads and tails left on (I used one 1-1/2# fish for the two of us, which was plenty- BB)
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon peeled and minced or grated ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Minced cilantro leaves for garnish

method
1- Heat a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes. Add the vegetable oil to a depth of 1/8", more or less.When the oil shimmers, put the fish in it. Cook, undisturbed, for about 8 minutes on the first side. Turn carefully.
2- As the fish is cooking, heat the peanut oil over medium heat in a small saucepan. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to color. Add the soy sauce and sesame oil and keep warm.
3- Cook the fish 6-8 minutes on the second side. It is done when the flesh offers little resistance to a knife or chopstick; if in doubt, peek next to a bone- the flesh should be opaque.
4- Remove fish to plate(s), drizzle with sauce, garnish, and serve immediately.

Fish On!

Sick of tomatoes yet? I hope not, because not only is it going to be a long, cold winter without them, but you haven't made a couple of killer dishes that have been whipped up at the 50th Avenue Kitchen lately. Last night, with w and I desperately in need of lighter fare, I scoured my cookbooks in search that perfect fish dish, that would also hopefully use up some of my seeming bushels of tomatoes that are taking over my kitchen. Once again I found inspiration and salvation in one of my new favorite resources, Starting With Ingredients by Aliza Green. This is the second spot on recipe from this book I've tried which bodes well for future success. Most of her recipes have very few ingredients, which really allows the flavors of whatever you're using to show through, and of course saves time in the whole hunting-and-gathering thing. Check it out, I'm guessing you'll find something delicious. But first, check out this delectable dish while your local farmers markets are brimming with fresh tomatoes!
********************
Mahi-Mahi with Corn, Tomato, and Red Onion Ragout
From Starting With Ingredients
ingredients
4 (6-8 ounce) mahi-mahi filets
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 small red onion, diced
1-1/2 cups diced red and yellow tomatoes
kernels from two ears corn
1/4 cup thin strips basil
lime wedges

method
1- sprinkle salt and pepper all over filets. In a large skillet, preferably cast iron or non-stick, heat 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat until shimmering, and brown the fillets on both sides. Remove from the pan and keep warm in the oven.
2- Pour off any excess oil, add the remaining one tablespoon oil and the red onion and sauté one or two minutes until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and corn to pan. Sauté until brightly colored but still firm, one or two minutes. Transfer the mixture to a serving platter and top with fish. Serve with lime wedges.
notes: I had a hard time finding mahi-mahi locally, until I happened into our local Whole Foods, who had wild caught, frozen 6 ounce filets that worked perfectly. You could also substitute black cod or halibut. Adjust cooking times accordingly.- BB

Getting Saucy!

Like me do you have an abundance problem? Too much of a good thing? Pounds and pounds of round red orbs falling off of your tomato plants, overflowing your baskets, rolling across your counters? Fruit flies buzzing about? I don't know about you, but no matter how freaking delicious they are right now I can only eat so many. And I've been eating dozens! So here's what ya do, so you can enjoy them when the dark days of winter are sapping your spirit...say January or February...when all seems cold and gray and tomato season seems to be not just months, but years away: MAKE SAUCE! In particular this sauce because nothing could be easier. I mean really easy in that walking down the street and breathing sort of way. If you don't have tomato plants at home, get yourselves to the nearest farmer's market, because tomato season is on! And come February, when you have your delicious, steaming platter of spaghetti with marinara sauce in front of you, and after that first bite you taste the sunny warmth of summer, think of me and know I'm probably doing exactly the same thing!

********************

Summer Fresh Tomato Sauce
(thanks to w's friend Kathleen for the inspiration!)

ingredients:
1 dozen (or more....or less) fresh tomatoes (I would use medium round or Roma/San Marzanos. Save the big beefsteaks for your burgers and BLT's)
kosher salt
extra virgin olive oil

method:
Preheat oven to 250*. Destem tomatoes. Slice tomatoes in half and arrange cut side up on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt. Drizzle with olive oil. Slide baking sheet in middle of oven and roast for 3-1/2 hours. remove baking sheet. Carefully slide a spatula underneath each tomato and drop into work bowl of food processor. It may take a couple of batches. Pulse tomatoes until chopped to your desired consistency. Eat fresh, or remember that winter will soon be here and freeze a few conatiners.

*cook's note: I read a lot of recipes that called for adding herbs sprinkled on top while they roast. I think this takes away from the essential freshness of this sauce. Save the herbs to add when you heat up the sauce later.

A life well lived...

The September 5th selection of the Reading Club for the Food Obsessed is one many of you have probably worked through already. But since I just finished it yesterday, I'm putting it on everyone else's list. The book, of course, is My Life in France by Julia Child and Alex Prud'homme. It is a fabulous memoir of life in France, as lived by Julia and her husband Paul from the late 1940's to the mid 80's. The book is so well written, and only increased my respect for "Julie" and made me appreciate even more what she accomplished in her career, when women in the kitchen were a true rarity. Plus her stories of "la belle France" in the mid-century will have you eating your heart out and leave you ravenously hungry. A great, satisfying escape for those of us who dream of food, cooking, and France!

Make "Our Kitchen" your kitchen!

How nice is it when you have a place you know without fail is going to make you happy? For GWB, it's the ranch in Texas where he can forget about those thousands of young Americans he's needlessly killed...errr, sent to fight the "terraists". For (ex)Senator Larry Craig, it's a stall in an airport bathroom. And for lovers of beautifully prepared authentic Mexican food in Portland, it Nuestra Cocina. My friend and confidant DOR recently found ourselves there for a long overdue dinner out, and chef/owner Benjamin Gonzalez's food once again absolutely knocked us out.

The crazy good qeusadilla and rockfish ceviche




For me the place to sit at NC is right at their kitchen counter, where you're about three feet away from where Benjamin and his sous chef are throwing your plates together. This is one of the best counters in town, you are right in the action...I love it! For me it is a must to start with one of their "traditional" margaritas, made with fresh squeezed juices. Always gets me in the correct frame of mind, and goes perfectly with the complimentary plate of freshly made corn tortillas and salsa. My usual, must have starter is their addictive sopes, but this time we skipped those dishes of goodness and opted for a couple of their specials, a qeusadilla filled with stuffed squash blossoms ad a rockfish ceviche that were both unreal. The quesadilla was a brilliantly conceived bit of seasonality, and the ceviche was citrusy and mouthwateringly fresh. We followed those fabulous bites with a trio of their carnitas tacos, and a filet of black cod on fresh sweet corn and snap peas. Again, too good, and fabulous to have Benjamin sourcing this great local produce and implementing it in surprising, and very satisfying dishes. For dessert, we worked our way though a mango upside-down cake and a chocolate cake with cinnamon house made ice cream. God, what a way to go. Happy? You bet your ass!


Black cod on summer vegetables and two delectable desserts.