I am officially bereft....

.....at the news that the best Italian restaurant in Portland is closing. Word comes to me that Alba Osteria, owner/chef Kurt Spak's paean to the glory of Piedmontese cooking in SW Portland, is closing as of Dec. 31st. I ate at Alba quite often, and was always impressed by Kurt's passion and precision. His ethereal tajarin and agnolotti pastas and his perfectly prepared sweetbreads will be sorely missed.

Apparently financial issues, as they seem to do all too often, played a factor. They are serving their last dinner December 31st, a 5-course feast that I'm sure will a worthy sendoff. Hats off to Kurt and his wonderful staff who always made us feel very welcome and provided a true taste of the Piedmont. I can only look forward to where he'll turn up next.

UPDATE: my original post had the closing date Dec. 1st, due to an error of omission, mainly the fact that I left off the "3", so Alba will be open through the month of December. Make sure you get in to get your pleasure buttons pushed!

Quick Bites PDX: Bar Avignon; Alba Osteria; and chatter

ALBA OSTERIA
For those of you who have reading along all this time, you know I have large amounts of respect for chef Kurt Spak's Alba Osteria out in SW Portland. If you haven't been clued in, you need to be, because this is, as w and I were reminded after dinner there this past Saturday, the best Italian food in town. We had another intensely satisfying meal, where Kurt's spot-on representation of Piedmontese cooking knocked us out. Just recounting the meal here makes me salivate for my next chance to go there....

Starting out, along with a couple of of glasses of fizzily refreshing prosecco, we had the Tartra of Heirloom Tomatoes, Taggiasca Olives, and Anchovy surrounded by a decadent pool of Salsa di Noce, a heavenly hazelnut sauce. The tart was perfect, sweetly fresh baked tomatoes set off by the salty pungency of the olives and anchovy, inside of a perfectly made crust. We also had the Halibut in Carpione, which was marinated halibut with a zucchini, tomato, and cucumber salad. Fresh, bright, the halibut in its citrus marinade matching perfectly with the lightly dressed veggies. This is a dish that takes a light touch, and it was executed exactly right.

Following that, we opted for the Ricotta Gnocchi with a cream sauce of chanterelle mushrooms, fresh corn, and pecorino. I've probably said it before, but AO's gnocchi are sublime. Soft, perfectly textured, pillowy bites of goodness, and the seasonal cream sauce was again very flavorful but light. Then we shared the magic that is Spak's Agnolotti del Plin, tiny stuffed pastas filled with veal, pork and rabbit tossed in a butter sauce. Impossibly delicate, they melt in your mouth, and it is amazing they can get them from water to table without falling apart. The agnolotti, which I've had stuffed with various fillings, are always a not-to-be-missed menu option.

After that primi, it was on to secondis, and in a fit if pasta overload, w decided she had to have Alba's Tajarin with a butter/sage sauce. Always the best version of these long, thin, ribbony noodles we've had outside of the Piedmont, this is another plate of fabulousness that never disappoints. I went carnivore with their Grilled Tails & Trotters Pork Loin Chop with a balsamic glaze and topped with a sliced, roast peach. This was fabulous stuff, the hazelnut finished Tails & Trotters chop tender, slightly pink in the middle, and juicy (our waiter Jeff said the don't even need to brine the T&T pork). The sliced peach on top was inspiration, and the surrounding polenta and a few glasses of a fabulous 1999 Ugo Lequio Barbaresco had me swooning.

The only disappointment was our dessert of Vanilla-Blueberry Crème Brulée. The blueberries under what would have been a silky crème on its own instead mixed with the cream, making it a bit of a soupy mess. But by that time we were so full and so satisfied that it was a minor letdown. Alba is closed through the 10th of September for vacation, so you'll have to delay your gratification for a bit, but when they reopen they'll have a new fall menu ready to roll out that I'm sure will provide untold pleasure for a helluva lot less than a ticket to Torino!

Also worth noting is that now Alba is offering their tajarin and ricotta gnocchi for retail sale. That has to be good news!
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BAR AVIGNON
You may have read this Oregonian piece about Bar Avignon's new chef Jeremy Eckel and the expanding menu at this cozy dining room on 22nd and SE Division. Owners Nancy Hunt and Randy Goodman (that's them at left in a pic from The Oregonian) have finally found the perfect person to take a spot that always provided great cocktails and an extremely well priced and varied wine list and ramp it up into what I now feel might be one of Portland's best spots to grab dinner. Nancy was telling us what she loved about Eckel was his love of all things seasonal in the chef's bounty that is Portland. She said his eyes just light up when she brings in her latest farmer's market finds, and we saw that same dreamy look in his eyes when he was explaining to us what he going to do with a batch of fresh sardines he was salting. You can tell when someone is into it, and this guy has it bad!

We went last Friday, dug our forks into some of Eckel's creations, and came away dying to return. We started with Wild Boar Ribs with a spicy-sweet peach barbeque sauce that are perhaps the ultimate bar snack. A Chilled Sweet Corn Soup topped with a sprinkle of smoked sea salt was so richly flavored, yet light, made with a vegetable stock. We followed that promising start with Fideus, which are short Portuguese-style noodles (think broken spaghetti) in a sauce of summer squash and chard with a soft baked egg attractively situated right in the middle. Something you have to have if it still on the menu is his roasted Chicken with baby artichokes, pacha beans, and aioli. I don't order chicken out very often, because I make various kickass dishes myself at home, but Eckel's chicken was fabulous. A half chicken that is bursting with juicy flavor, and the whole plate just screams of the summer season.

This food is seriously good, the vibe at BA is incredibly comfortable, and the prices are ridiculously cheap, with everything above ranging from $7 to $14. Add on to that some bargain priced wines and you have the ultimate cheap date that will satisfy your wallet and leave your palate breathless, which is pretty much what we're all looking for, isn't it?

You can also buy most of the wines off the wine list to go for 25% off, and be sure to check out Randy's Saturday afternoon free wine tastings at the back table!
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CHATTER: This article in last week's New York Times Dining Section was all about the hotdogueros of Tucson who peddle griddled bacon wrapped hot dogs topped with taco seasonings. I read this, immediately wanted to book a plane to Arizona to taste these wonders, then came up with a much more economical solution. I walked across the street from the wine shack to Kiko's Taqueria Uruapan and handed Enrique a copy of the Times story and inquired (through his son) if he might consider adding this to his repertoire. He gave me the look I immediately recognized as the same look I give people who suggest ways to improve my business. So when I checked with his son the next day to see what they though, he said they are probably going to be offering them up this Saturday at their cart on SE 13th and Lexington in Sellwood. I was overjoyed, until I suddenly realized I'm leaving on vacation early that morning. But being altruistic as ever, rather than bitterly keeping this nugget to myself, I offer it to you and hope you will take advantage of what I will sorely be missing.
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Word on the street has it that Donald Kotler, owner of the deliciously cute place Toast on SE 52nd is working on financing to open another spot at the very cool space that was formerly CAVA on SE 53rd and Foster Road. No word on what his plans are, but I can only hope this comes through, because I love his act at Toast.
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A sampling Oregon pinot noirs and commentary on the NYT site by writer Eric Asimov. The main point seeming to be to talk about how the young Oregon wine industry is more informed by winemaker choices rather than the elusive terroir that makes France's Burgundy region what it is. Not surprising, and can't say I disagree, but it is too bad their tasting is limited by the availability in their local market, which would leave most of America to believe that Oregon pinot noir at this stage is hardly worth the investment. With that I couldn't disagree more, and I only wish they could sample the very reasonably priced offerings from J. Christopher, Cameron, Grochau, Broadley, and others.
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Click here to check out the info on the upcoming "Going Whole Hog Class with Morgan Brownlow and Aaron Silverman of Tails & Trotters" at Luan Schooler's appetite inspiring Foster and Dobb's food emporium on NE 15th. For what seems a quite reasonable $20 you get a class from two pork know-it-alls who will discuss "...the European style of butchering. They will also explain the best ways to use various cuts of pork in the home kitchen and share their experiences raising the pigs." I'm guessing snacking will somehow be involved. Sounds yummy!
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Jack Yoss leaving ten-01 leaves Portland food scene remarkably unaffected

Just read this post by FoodDude that chef Jack Yoss is leaving Ten-01 this March. According to FD he's leaving for a "world tour" of eastern Europe and Asia. Must be some damn good piroshkis and chicken paprikash to be had. I would disagree with FD's conclusion that "this is a huge blow to the Portland restaurant scene". Granted he resurrected Ten-01 from the culinary dumpster it was residing in, but with so many talented chefs doing equally good and innovative cooking (Kevin at EVOE; Kurt at Alba Osteria; Benjamin at Nuestra Cocina; etc.) and also the fact that Ten-01 really wasn't that high profile (I don't know if any restaurant/chef in town is) to warrant that judgment. It is much more of a blow to the restaurant itself than to the PDX food scene in general.

Quick Bites PDX: Alba Osteria; Bunk Sandwich

Two recent eating experiences bear mention. Last Saturday night we met our friends Carlo and Francesca at Alba Osteria, chef/owner Kurt Spak's temple to all things Piedmontese and delicious. Once again we were knocked out by what is without question the best Italian....REAL Italian...food in Portland. This is authentic, simple Piedmontese cooking which reflects Kurt's yearly trips to cook, eat, and learn. From start to finish it was almost without exception great execution. I didn't take pics, so highlights from our dinner include (in order, and it's only a partial list of the delights we sampled):
Starters:
*CARNE CRUDA- why more restaurants in town don't do this classic Italian starter is beyond me. Kurt's beef is so clean and lean.
* POLPETTINI AL CARPIONE- I could eat, if it wouldn't create dismay among those I'm dining with, dozens of these perfect little veal meatballs.
*SPINACH SFORMATO WITH FONDUTA DI RASCHERA- How something so rich and creamy could still be so light can only be described as fighting the laws of physics.

Primi:
*RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH HEDGEHOG MUSHROOMS, PECORINO, AND CREAM- Kurt's gnocchi define this dish locally. Perfectly light, pillowy, with a velvety smooth sauce. After the wretched versions I had at DOC recently, these were heavenly.
*TAJARIN WITH BUTTER AND SAGE- The classic pasta of Piedmont done, as always, exactly right!
*CANNELONI BARBAROUX-one word: WOW! His canneloni again shows his light touch. Super thin pasta tubes stuffed with a meat (I'm guessing pork based) stuffing that were out of this world.

Secondi:
*BOLLITO MISTO- a classic of Italian cooking, this is a rich, brothy beef stew that according to the menu contains all these delicious ingredients: "brisket, guinea hen, cotechino and tongue simmered with 27 seasonal vegetables. With fresh horseradish, salsa verde, and saosa'd avije"
*FRESH COD FILLET- the "Today's Fresh Fish Selection" was outstanding. I'd tell you more about it, but I honestly can't remember what it came with. Curse those three bottles of wine had at dinner!!

We had two desserts, a deliciously spicy ginger cake and to ease the memory of the DOC panna cotta disaster, the divine Alba plate of jiggly goodness. All in all we were all incredibly impressed, not just with the food but with Kurt's obvious dedication and passion for doing things right!
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I also stopped by Monday at Bunk Sandwich, Tommy Habetz's new joint on the inner east side approach to the Morrison Bridge. You walk in the front door, make your choices off the blackboard to your right, and give Tommy your order (that's TH in taking orders in the photo at left). Knowing that Habetz knows his way around a pig, I had his porchetta sandwich, which was fabulous. Seasoned just right, tender and moist, stuck inside a crusty Fleur des Lys Bakery roll. It didn't look that big sitting on the serving tray, but this was amazingly filling. For my side I ordered, because it has three of my favorite things in the world in it, the potato salad with bacon and egg. Kind of the lunch time version of breakfast, I guess. This was fucking awesome potato salad, and if you think I won't be finding a seat in Tommy's cozy little joint next Monday to sample another sandwich and more of that salad, you would be sorely mistaken. He's also doing a small brunch thing morning. TH has a great rep around town among those who know good food, and while I was there Gabe from Le Pigeon was sidling up to a table to get his fix. I really like the semi-gritty feel here, and the menu looks killer (click on the photo to enlarge the blackboard menu).
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one year ago today @ E.D.T.: Fill your glasses full of cheer with these holiday cocktails!

Piedmont pleasures at Alba Osteria

A quick hit about another awesome dinner at Alba Osteria, chef/owner Kurt Spak's temple to all things Piedmontese and delicious. We went last Saturday and were once again knocked out by what we ate, and the integrity of Kurt's approach to his craft.

From two perfectly appetizing starters (including my beloved carne cruda...and why doesn't anyone else in town do this? When is some chef besides Kurt going to have a little faith in their customers and give them a little credit? Kurt says they blow through this at Alba), on through the "salad" (right) of greens, walnuts, & pear topped with a duck confit leg which may be the best salad course ever...maybe second only to a crazy "salad course" of lentils cooked in duck fat the we had at l'Ambassade d'Auvergne in Paris...with the confit perfectly cooked, crispy outside, moist inside. The kind of dish you'd dream about but never think you'd actually see. Then of course we had to move on to his spot-on tajarin pasta (left), which simply blows away any other in Portland, the pasta ethereally light with a touch of butter sage sauce.




For entrées, because more must be better, right?, I had his spectacular sweetbreads, again cooked as they should be: crispy outside, moist and tender inside. Kind of like a chicken mcnugget for the non-chickenshit eater. I love this particular gland, and I appreciate those animals who gave theirs so that I might smile. w had the snapper (or was it sole, or...? This came well into our second bottle of wine after cocktails at Teardrop, so I do have an excuse...sort of...). Anyway, it was awesome, the filets (right) lightly breaded and pan fried with a black olive tapenade-like dressing on top, with a buttery smooth mound of mashers and greens on the side. Really nicely done. Then of course two desserts and a couple of glasses of Moscato d'Asti to make sure our physical and mental impairment was complete. Once again Kurt showed our appetites no mercy, throwing down one stellar dish after another. For some reason, every time I walk through the doors at Alba, my ability to say "no" somehow disappears. I know I've said it before: this is as good as it gets...anywhere...for authentic Italian cooking!

Portland to the Piedmont in one night!

I'm back from blog-hiatus, and with a stellar offer for all of you living in Portland. For the rest of you, should you find yourselves with plans to visit our fair city, pay attention. Here's the deal: In the next five minutes or so you spend reading this, you can have an extra $3,000 in your pocket! I know, pretty fucking crazy, right? Check it out....

About four months ago w and I took a trip to the Piedmont region of Italy for some serious eating and drinking research. The wine was incredible, and the Piedmontese cuisine was completely off the hook. We pine for it all the time. Including a few days in the Cinque Terre and five days in Paris (BTW-you can read all the delicious details by going back in the blog archives to late April/early May 2007), and the fact that our wallets were bludgeoned by the Euro-dollar beatdown, we dropped a few thousand each. Any of you with plans for the same trip, get your finances in order. So what about that 3G savings deal? Here's all you have to do: Get in your car, drive about 10-20 minutes out to 6440 SW Capitol Highway here in PDX, and dig in to owner/chef Kurt Spak's dead-on Piedmontese creations at his sublimely satisfying restaurant Alba Osteria. This is food as good as anything you'll eat in town, and measures up to the best meals we had on our Italian sojourn.

Where to begin? How about with a couple of glasses of fizzy prosecco and a dish of perfectly prepared fritto misto, lightly battered and fried Willapa Bay oysters and shrimp with a fennel salad. Then to go old/new school surf and turf, we also had a plate of Kurt's exceptional carne cruda, which is fresh, lean, raw chopped beef with lemon, olive oil, and Reggiano. Why most chefs seem to fear this dish and lack faith in their customers sense of adventure I have no idea. Our waiter Jeff said they sell tons of it, so obviously it's not a customer problem. And besides, it is something I LOVE, so get with it you guys!

We followed those 2 plates of satisfaction with their baked sweet peppers with Oregon albacore, anchovy, and olive oil. This was fantastic, beautifully presented, perfectly balanced. And with a glass of Arneis, the signature white from the Piedmont, it was swoon-worthy.

Now, when we were in the Piedmont, we had some crazy multi-course feasts that went on for two to three hours, which is the only way you can eat that much food. We were going for the same effect at Alba, and next time I think I'd tell Kurt we wee in no hurry, and space the dishes a little further apart. I know most Americans freak out if one plate doesn't slap down on the table the moment they're done with their last dish, but with this kind of cooking, it's all about pace, taking the time to enjoy each bite, and the nuances and subtleties of flavor. Even without that pacing, we were going for it this night, so our next plate out was a shared dish of ricotta gnocchi with chanterelles and cream. Oh, man, perfectly pillowy gnocchis blanketed in a luscious mushroom cream sauce that made me want to curl up with them. So good, not heavy at all, just seasonal satisfaction at it's finest.

There was more on the menu, so we had to keep going. w had their fish special of mushroom stuffed trout which she loved, but sadly by then couldn't finish due to all the indulgence. I had the Alba pork fest, aka an incredible plate of slow roasted pork belly, cotechino sausage, and a Grive Monferrato which was an amazing pork and pork liver sausage patty. All this served with some silky smooth potato puree. Oh, and I had brought a bottle out of the archives of 1997 Ausario Barbaresco that was perfection, slowly opening to reveal it's rich, ripe, earthy blackberry fruit. Wow!

Then, despite w's admittedly weak objections because she loves it as much as I do, we had his gelato trio. Three scoops of house made hazelnut, vanilla, and caramel gelato that were creamy goodness defined, and left us stuffed, satisfied, and deciding that if we can't be in Italy, this isn't a bad way to go.

We talked with Kurt for a few minutes on our way out, and you can't help but feel his passion and commitment. He takes regular trips to the Piedmont with his sous chef to recharge and keep up with what's happening, and then comes back and dishes it like nobody else. This is the best Italian food in town, and as good as anything I've had at any Italian restaurant in the country. Yeah, it's that good. Plus, those 3G's in my pocket are feeling pretty good!

Piedmont, pt.2: Alpine ordeal!

4/24/2007
Another successful day of vacationeering, who's main point seemed to be to put my body through a some minor(?) discomfort for the reward of a great dinner. We started out the morning after the previous evenings excess a bit, um...slowly. w had this in mind all along to drive an hour and a half west to the Alps for some hiking, Italian Alps style. The drive up was truly breathtaking, and these mountains make our Cascades look like round little ice cream cones. Jagged, soaring, snow covered, looming over tiny villages filled with slate-tile roofed houses. Now as I tell this story keep in mind that while I love the outdoors and am reasonably active, my idea of a strenuous hike is driving east to the Columbia Gorge and bombing up to the top of Angel's Rest, followed immediately by a pint of cold malted beverage at Edgefield. At what amounts to sea level. w's idea of being active, as I now know, is starting at 5500 feet, hiking up through patches of snow and rock for about two miles to 6600 feet. Hm, that's what I get for not asking more questions! And in a sky filled with air, why didn't there seem to be enough for me. So here I am gasping, being all pathetic, stopping every few hundred feet to convince my legs they can take a few more steps. The scenery was awesome though, and I figured if I was going to have a heart attack and die anywhere, this would be the place for it. We made it up and back, me with that sense of accomplishment that city dwellers get from even the most minor physical achievements.
The next words out of my mouth: "High on a hill is a lonely goat herd....."



We drove the back roads to Alba, making a stop in La Morra, a famous Barolo producing town, wandered the streets, took in the amazing views of the surrounding vineyards, stopped in the Enoteca Regionale to try some local producers grape juice. Man, I love these wines. Earthy, rich, crying out for some grilled anything. I bought a couple of bottles for ridiculously low prices ('99 single-vineyard Barolo for $30, a killer Barbera from the cult producer Altare that you can't get in PDX for $17). Oh, and here's a piece of wine buying advice. As we walked up to the enoteca, we stopped in a wine store along the way, figuring their prices would be the best. Wrong thought, and always check what's for sale at the enoteca regionale first, because the pricing is almost always going to be lower.

Finally making it back to our room, for a quick clean up and glass of wine on the hillside at Paitin, watching an amazing sunset, having cheese, and feeling so fucking lucky.

Dinner last night was at a place that had been recommended to me by a couple different food credible people in Portland, a tiny place in the center of Alba's old town called La Libera. A very cool, clean, modern dining room, reminded both w and I of Castagna. We tucked into a bottle of Barbera which seems to be becoming the national drink of our trip, and ordered off their small, but extremely well chosen menu. Even not knowing what some of the dishes were, it felt like we couldn't go wrong. Our starters were a briny, bitingly fresh plate of lightly fried sardines, and a stupendous carne cruda, even better than the one the night before, a vivid red patty of perfectly tender chopped beef. Yum! We moved from that to a shard primi of tajarin pasta with a rabbit sugo in a light basil cream. So light that the basil was just barely, yet perfectly, present. And of course, getting full but never knowing when to stop, our secondis consisted of a plate of what we think was cod for w, a delicious, light dish, the fish on sliced potatoes and topped brilliantly with a dollop of hummus. My plate was a roasted squab, and unlike the tiny avian they serve at Le Pigeon in PDX, this was almost duck-like in the size of it's breast slices, which were achingly tender and so flavorful, resting comfortably atop some mashed potatoes. Then of course was the share dessert sampler the call Ape Libera, five different dessert bites that sent us out onto the street once again too satisfied. More pics of edible delights.....
Sardines...waiting freshly!






Carne cruda...unbelievable!









Tajarin...Piedmont's pasta perfection!











Sweetness!








I was so sleepy, though, and just had to take a quick nap...............

Adventures in Alba

A quick hit on another stellar dining experience last night. w and I went to one of our favorite Italian feeding spots with our friends J&K, that always satisfying spot being Alba Osteria and Enoteca here in PDX. There are certain places you eat at where you can feel the love and passion for what is being prepared. You just now that the chef back in the kitchen really cares, and is not just sharing his food, but sharing an important piece of who he/she is. I always get that feeling at Alba, and once again owner/chef Kurt Spack's Piedmontese-inspired creations didn't disappoint. Kurt has a serious Alba jones going, and I always look forward to his current edible inspirations. We started with an ever appropriate bottle of Prosecco, which always sets the mood. We moved into two different antipasti, Jerusalem artichokes baked in bagna cauda and fried Willapa Bay oysters with a fresh celery root salad. Both did exactly what they should, which is whet our appetites for what is to come.
After ordering a bottle of 2005 Bruna Grimaldi Barbera d'Alba "Scassa", which is always a killer food wine, next up were two primi for sharing. I can't go to Alba without having Kurt's ethereal house-made fresh Tajarin pasta, and tonight it was served with a pork/beef ragu that was a savory compliment to the delicate tajarin. Molto bene! We also had his pillowy ricotta gnocchi that were wrapped in a silky pillowcase of leeks and cream that were light with a spot on texture.

To get ready for our entrées, we had the Alba wine guy Jeff pop the cork on a bottle of 2003 Paitin Nebbiolo "Ca Veja", which is Barbaresco level red for about half the price. In order, this is came rolling out of the kitchen:
Me- Pan roasted sweetbreads and grilled duck liver with a mustard sauce. Wow...so good. As always the kitchen cooked their sweetbreads to a tender perfection. And the grilled duck liver was actually rather mild, which was very appreciated, and grilled to a just done texture with a nice char.
w- The special fresh fish, tonight a whole trout stuffed with mushrooms. Very good, maybe a smidge overdone, but nicely flavored.
J- A spectacular brine cured pork chop that was off the charts, and I'm sure any pig would gladly give up his leg if he knew it was going to treated with such respect.
K- She picked the roasted lamb loin chops with a lamb and olive crepinette. It came out perfectly medium-rare, and was a very generously sized portion. Wonderful stuff.

Since we'd come this far, it would have like surrendering to not have dessert. Luckily J&K have that same "don't quit 'til the job is done" attitude and were very willing to share a couple. One, a sensually soft panna cotta that almost melted away when it hit your tongue, and my favorite, a stunning lemon and honey tart. Jeff was very kind to comp us a bottle of Moscato d'Asti, and though not really needed at that point, was most appreciated and indulged in. This was a night of Piedmontese soul food and kudos to Kurt and staff for sharing the passion!

Final note: Alba is also a place where you know no matter what wine you order, and this is a really well chosen list of Piedmont reds and whites, you can be sure you are getting a great deal. Very reasonable markups that I can only wish other restaurants could take a clue from.