I am officially bereft....

.....at the news that the best Italian restaurant in Portland is closing. Word comes to me that Alba Osteria, owner/chef Kurt Spak's paean to the glory of Piedmontese cooking in SW Portland, is closing as of Dec. 31st. I ate at Alba quite often, and was always impressed by Kurt's passion and precision. His ethereal tajarin and agnolotti pastas and his perfectly prepared sweetbreads will be sorely missed.

Apparently financial issues, as they seem to do all too often, played a factor. They are serving their last dinner December 31st, a 5-course feast that I'm sure will a worthy sendoff. Hats off to Kurt and his wonderful staff who always made us feel very welcome and provided a true taste of the Piedmont. I can only look forward to where he'll turn up next.

UPDATE: my original post had the closing date Dec. 1st, due to an error of omission, mainly the fact that I left off the "3", so Alba will be open through the month of December. Make sure you get in to get your pleasure buttons pushed!

Quick Bites PDX: Alba Osteria; Bunk Sandwich

Two recent eating experiences bear mention. Last Saturday night we met our friends Carlo and Francesca at Alba Osteria, chef/owner Kurt Spak's temple to all things Piedmontese and delicious. Once again we were knocked out by what is without question the best Italian....REAL Italian...food in Portland. This is authentic, simple Piedmontese cooking which reflects Kurt's yearly trips to cook, eat, and learn. From start to finish it was almost without exception great execution. I didn't take pics, so highlights from our dinner include (in order, and it's only a partial list of the delights we sampled):
Starters:
*CARNE CRUDA- why more restaurants in town don't do this classic Italian starter is beyond me. Kurt's beef is so clean and lean.
* POLPETTINI AL CARPIONE- I could eat, if it wouldn't create dismay among those I'm dining with, dozens of these perfect little veal meatballs.
*SPINACH SFORMATO WITH FONDUTA DI RASCHERA- How something so rich and creamy could still be so light can only be described as fighting the laws of physics.

Primi:
*RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH HEDGEHOG MUSHROOMS, PECORINO, AND CREAM- Kurt's gnocchi define this dish locally. Perfectly light, pillowy, with a velvety smooth sauce. After the wretched versions I had at DOC recently, these were heavenly.
*TAJARIN WITH BUTTER AND SAGE- The classic pasta of Piedmont done, as always, exactly right!
*CANNELONI BARBAROUX-one word: WOW! His canneloni again shows his light touch. Super thin pasta tubes stuffed with a meat (I'm guessing pork based) stuffing that were out of this world.

Secondi:
*BOLLITO MISTO- a classic of Italian cooking, this is a rich, brothy beef stew that according to the menu contains all these delicious ingredients: "brisket, guinea hen, cotechino and tongue simmered with 27 seasonal vegetables. With fresh horseradish, salsa verde, and saosa'd avije"
*FRESH COD FILLET- the "Today's Fresh Fish Selection" was outstanding. I'd tell you more about it, but I honestly can't remember what it came with. Curse those three bottles of wine had at dinner!!

We had two desserts, a deliciously spicy ginger cake and to ease the memory of the DOC panna cotta disaster, the divine Alba plate of jiggly goodness. All in all we were all incredibly impressed, not just with the food but with Kurt's obvious dedication and passion for doing things right!
##### ##### #####
I also stopped by Monday at Bunk Sandwich, Tommy Habetz's new joint on the inner east side approach to the Morrison Bridge. You walk in the front door, make your choices off the blackboard to your right, and give Tommy your order (that's TH in taking orders in the photo at left). Knowing that Habetz knows his way around a pig, I had his porchetta sandwich, which was fabulous. Seasoned just right, tender and moist, stuck inside a crusty Fleur des Lys Bakery roll. It didn't look that big sitting on the serving tray, but this was amazingly filling. For my side I ordered, because it has three of my favorite things in the world in it, the potato salad with bacon and egg. Kind of the lunch time version of breakfast, I guess. This was fucking awesome potato salad, and if you think I won't be finding a seat in Tommy's cozy little joint next Monday to sample another sandwich and more of that salad, you would be sorely mistaken. He's also doing a small brunch thing morning. TH has a great rep around town among those who know good food, and while I was there Gabe from Le Pigeon was sidling up to a table to get his fix. I really like the semi-gritty feel here, and the menu looks killer (click on the photo to enlarge the blackboard menu).
##### ##### #####
one year ago today @ E.D.T.: Fill your glasses full of cheer with these holiday cocktails!

Piedmont pleasures at Alba Osteria

A quick hit about another awesome dinner at Alba Osteria, chef/owner Kurt Spak's temple to all things Piedmontese and delicious. We went last Saturday and were once again knocked out by what we ate, and the integrity of Kurt's approach to his craft.

From two perfectly appetizing starters (including my beloved carne cruda...and why doesn't anyone else in town do this? When is some chef besides Kurt going to have a little faith in their customers and give them a little credit? Kurt says they blow through this at Alba), on through the "salad" (right) of greens, walnuts, & pear topped with a duck confit leg which may be the best salad course ever...maybe second only to a crazy "salad course" of lentils cooked in duck fat the we had at l'Ambassade d'Auvergne in Paris...with the confit perfectly cooked, crispy outside, moist inside. The kind of dish you'd dream about but never think you'd actually see. Then of course we had to move on to his spot-on tajarin pasta (left), which simply blows away any other in Portland, the pasta ethereally light with a touch of butter sage sauce.




For entrées, because more must be better, right?, I had his spectacular sweetbreads, again cooked as they should be: crispy outside, moist and tender inside. Kind of like a chicken mcnugget for the non-chickenshit eater. I love this particular gland, and I appreciate those animals who gave theirs so that I might smile. w had the snapper (or was it sole, or...? This came well into our second bottle of wine after cocktails at Teardrop, so I do have an excuse...sort of...). Anyway, it was awesome, the filets (right) lightly breaded and pan fried with a black olive tapenade-like dressing on top, with a buttery smooth mound of mashers and greens on the side. Really nicely done. Then of course two desserts and a couple of glasses of Moscato d'Asti to make sure our physical and mental impairment was complete. Once again Kurt showed our appetites no mercy, throwing down one stellar dish after another. For some reason, every time I walk through the doors at Alba, my ability to say "no" somehow disappears. I know I've said it before: this is as good as it gets...anywhere...for authentic Italian cooking!

Portland to the Piedmont in one night!

I'm back from blog-hiatus, and with a stellar offer for all of you living in Portland. For the rest of you, should you find yourselves with plans to visit our fair city, pay attention. Here's the deal: In the next five minutes or so you spend reading this, you can have an extra $3,000 in your pocket! I know, pretty fucking crazy, right? Check it out....

About four months ago w and I took a trip to the Piedmont region of Italy for some serious eating and drinking research. The wine was incredible, and the Piedmontese cuisine was completely off the hook. We pine for it all the time. Including a few days in the Cinque Terre and five days in Paris (BTW-you can read all the delicious details by going back in the blog archives to late April/early May 2007), and the fact that our wallets were bludgeoned by the Euro-dollar beatdown, we dropped a few thousand each. Any of you with plans for the same trip, get your finances in order. So what about that 3G savings deal? Here's all you have to do: Get in your car, drive about 10-20 minutes out to 6440 SW Capitol Highway here in PDX, and dig in to owner/chef Kurt Spak's dead-on Piedmontese creations at his sublimely satisfying restaurant Alba Osteria. This is food as good as anything you'll eat in town, and measures up to the best meals we had on our Italian sojourn.

Where to begin? How about with a couple of glasses of fizzy prosecco and a dish of perfectly prepared fritto misto, lightly battered and fried Willapa Bay oysters and shrimp with a fennel salad. Then to go old/new school surf and turf, we also had a plate of Kurt's exceptional carne cruda, which is fresh, lean, raw chopped beef with lemon, olive oil, and Reggiano. Why most chefs seem to fear this dish and lack faith in their customers sense of adventure I have no idea. Our waiter Jeff said they sell tons of it, so obviously it's not a customer problem. And besides, it is something I LOVE, so get with it you guys!

We followed those 2 plates of satisfaction with their baked sweet peppers with Oregon albacore, anchovy, and olive oil. This was fantastic, beautifully presented, perfectly balanced. And with a glass of Arneis, the signature white from the Piedmont, it was swoon-worthy.

Now, when we were in the Piedmont, we had some crazy multi-course feasts that went on for two to three hours, which is the only way you can eat that much food. We were going for the same effect at Alba, and next time I think I'd tell Kurt we wee in no hurry, and space the dishes a little further apart. I know most Americans freak out if one plate doesn't slap down on the table the moment they're done with their last dish, but with this kind of cooking, it's all about pace, taking the time to enjoy each bite, and the nuances and subtleties of flavor. Even without that pacing, we were going for it this night, so our next plate out was a shared dish of ricotta gnocchi with chanterelles and cream. Oh, man, perfectly pillowy gnocchis blanketed in a luscious mushroom cream sauce that made me want to curl up with them. So good, not heavy at all, just seasonal satisfaction at it's finest.

There was more on the menu, so we had to keep going. w had their fish special of mushroom stuffed trout which she loved, but sadly by then couldn't finish due to all the indulgence. I had the Alba pork fest, aka an incredible plate of slow roasted pork belly, cotechino sausage, and a Grive Monferrato which was an amazing pork and pork liver sausage patty. All this served with some silky smooth potato puree. Oh, and I had brought a bottle out of the archives of 1997 Ausario Barbaresco that was perfection, slowly opening to reveal it's rich, ripe, earthy blackberry fruit. Wow!

Then, despite w's admittedly weak objections because she loves it as much as I do, we had his gelato trio. Three scoops of house made hazelnut, vanilla, and caramel gelato that were creamy goodness defined, and left us stuffed, satisfied, and deciding that if we can't be in Italy, this isn't a bad way to go.

We talked with Kurt for a few minutes on our way out, and you can't help but feel his passion and commitment. He takes regular trips to the Piedmont with his sous chef to recharge and keep up with what's happening, and then comes back and dishes it like nobody else. This is the best Italian food in town, and as good as anything I've had at any Italian restaurant in the country. Yeah, it's that good. Plus, those 3G's in my pocket are feeling pretty good!