On the road

That which you see above is my escape hatch for the next 9 days. Needless to say I LOVE my vintage trailer, so w and I are off for a little road trip around Oregon and blogging will most likely be on hiatus (although you never know, I may sneak in a post or two via iPhone if I can be patient enough to type one out on that tiny keypad). The eating and drinking will continue of course, so look forward to reports of camp cookin' and trailer cocktailin' when I get back on the 15th. See ya then!

Sacred things

We all hold certain things sacred. Some more fervently than others. Religion and family of course are two big ones for some. The inexplicable need to dress up in public as a character from Star Trek among other losers...errrr, members of your peer group, is another. For me the cocktail, particularly classic cocktails, are not to be trifled with. When the martini craze was in full bloom I would shudder at the sight of something called a "Chocolate Martini". The "Appletini" would cause me no end of aggravation. The point being a Martini is two things: gin and dry vermouth. Anything else is a cocktail, not a fill-in-the-blank-"tini". And usually a cocktail that is best ignored.

Perhaps my most revered cocktail is the Negroni, which like the martini is simplicity itself. Three ingredients instead of two: Campari, gin, and sweet vermouth in equal proportions. Even given its seemingly simple preparation, I've had some egregious examples. Any messing with the proportions throws the whole thing out of balance. Don't even start with changing ingredients. This all came to mind last Saturday when we went to Alba Osteria for dinner. On their cocktail list was something called a Negroni Sbagliato, which substituted prosecco for the gin. It was explained by our waiter as a negroni that is "lightened up". Once I got over my initial skepticism and considered it, it sounded quite good, even with the name "negroni" attached. So last night, in the interest of open-mindedness, and because a good cocktail seemed the perfect antidote to the day, I grabbed a bottle of prosecco off the shelf at VINO and made one. One sip and I was smitten! This really is a nice, rather than unfortunate, riff on a classic cocktail. So good that even adding negroni to the name seems to be not worth worrying about. Besides, if I do start to stress, what better way to calm myself than with another Negroni Sbagliato!
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Negroni Sbagliato
from Alba Osteria

ingredients:
1-1/2 ounces each Campari, sweet vermouth, and prosecco.
Twist of lemon for garnish

method:
Fill cocktail shaker partway with ice, the amount depending on how many cocktails you are preparing. For my one drink, I used five cubes. Add Campari and sweet vermouth. Shake for 30 seconds, then strain into champagne flute. Add prosecco and stir gently to combine. Add garnish. Enjoy!

What to expect when you're expected!

Too funny!

Thanks to Heather at My Uterine Parasite for the link!

Pan Roasted Corn and Tomato Salad, because you care about others!

In my continuing effort to rid your pantries of those pesky piles of excessive seasonal produce and give you fabulously satisfying reasons to spend quality time in your kitchens, may I supply you with another recipe that I guarantee will draw admiring looks and choice compliments from those lucky enough to share it with you. This isn't something you share with just anyone. This is for people you really, really like. And when their tongues are hanging out of their mouths in astonishment and they are begging for the recipe, you absolutely DO NOT want to tell them how ridiculously easy this was to throw together. Just promise to print out the recipe when you get a chance and then conveniently "forget". You may be asking "well then why are you sharing it?" Because I am a great humanitarian who is filled with nothing but altruistic impulses and cares for nothing more than your happiness, that's why! Geez, have you read anything I've posted??

Okay, this isn't just about me being so nice. Actually it is more about Mark Bittman's altruistic impulses and way with an easy food fix, as I grabbed the recipe off of the New York Times site. So with that disclaimer, and with everything (almost) you need at your local farmers markets right now, this is the side salad you MUST SERVE this holiday weekend! Happy Labor day everyone!!
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Pan-Roasted Corn and Tomato Salad
from Mark Bittman

ingredients:
1/4 pound bacon, chopped
1 small red onion, chopped
4 to 6 ears corn, stripped of their kernels (2 to 3 cups)
Juice of 1 lime, or more to taste
2 cups cored and chopped tomatoes
1 medium ripe avocado, pitted, peeled and chopped
2 fresh small chilies, like Thai, seeded and minced
Salt and black pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, more or less.

The bacon and corn commingling in a most holy union!

method:
1. Cook bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat until it begins to render fat; add onion and cook until just softened, about 5 minutes, then add corn. Continue cooking, stirring or shaking pan occasionally, until corn begins to brown a bit, about 5 more minutes; remove from heat and let cool for a few minutes. Drain fat if you wish.

2. Put lime juice in a large bowl and add bacon-corn mixture; then toss with remaining ingredients. Taste, adjust the seasoning and serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 4 servings.

Quick Bites PDX: Bar Avignon; Alba Osteria; and chatter

ALBA OSTERIA
For those of you who have reading along all this time, you know I have large amounts of respect for chef Kurt Spak's Alba Osteria out in SW Portland. If you haven't been clued in, you need to be, because this is, as w and I were reminded after dinner there this past Saturday, the best Italian food in town. We had another intensely satisfying meal, where Kurt's spot-on representation of Piedmontese cooking knocked us out. Just recounting the meal here makes me salivate for my next chance to go there....

Starting out, along with a couple of of glasses of fizzily refreshing prosecco, we had the Tartra of Heirloom Tomatoes, Taggiasca Olives, and Anchovy surrounded by a decadent pool of Salsa di Noce, a heavenly hazelnut sauce. The tart was perfect, sweetly fresh baked tomatoes set off by the salty pungency of the olives and anchovy, inside of a perfectly made crust. We also had the Halibut in Carpione, which was marinated halibut with a zucchini, tomato, and cucumber salad. Fresh, bright, the halibut in its citrus marinade matching perfectly with the lightly dressed veggies. This is a dish that takes a light touch, and it was executed exactly right.

Following that, we opted for the Ricotta Gnocchi with a cream sauce of chanterelle mushrooms, fresh corn, and pecorino. I've probably said it before, but AO's gnocchi are sublime. Soft, perfectly textured, pillowy bites of goodness, and the seasonal cream sauce was again very flavorful but light. Then we shared the magic that is Spak's Agnolotti del Plin, tiny stuffed pastas filled with veal, pork and rabbit tossed in a butter sauce. Impossibly delicate, they melt in your mouth, and it is amazing they can get them from water to table without falling apart. The agnolotti, which I've had stuffed with various fillings, are always a not-to-be-missed menu option.

After that primi, it was on to secondis, and in a fit if pasta overload, w decided she had to have Alba's Tajarin with a butter/sage sauce. Always the best version of these long, thin, ribbony noodles we've had outside of the Piedmont, this is another plate of fabulousness that never disappoints. I went carnivore with their Grilled Tails & Trotters Pork Loin Chop with a balsamic glaze and topped with a sliced, roast peach. This was fabulous stuff, the hazelnut finished Tails & Trotters chop tender, slightly pink in the middle, and juicy (our waiter Jeff said the don't even need to brine the T&T pork). The sliced peach on top was inspiration, and the surrounding polenta and a few glasses of a fabulous 1999 Ugo Lequio Barbaresco had me swooning.

The only disappointment was our dessert of Vanilla-Blueberry Crème Brulée. The blueberries under what would have been a silky crème on its own instead mixed with the cream, making it a bit of a soupy mess. But by that time we were so full and so satisfied that it was a minor letdown. Alba is closed through the 10th of September for vacation, so you'll have to delay your gratification for a bit, but when they reopen they'll have a new fall menu ready to roll out that I'm sure will provide untold pleasure for a helluva lot less than a ticket to Torino!

Also worth noting is that now Alba is offering their tajarin and ricotta gnocchi for retail sale. That has to be good news!
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BAR AVIGNON
You may have read this Oregonian piece about Bar Avignon's new chef Jeremy Eckel and the expanding menu at this cozy dining room on 22nd and SE Division. Owners Nancy Hunt and Randy Goodman (that's them at left in a pic from The Oregonian) have finally found the perfect person to take a spot that always provided great cocktails and an extremely well priced and varied wine list and ramp it up into what I now feel might be one of Portland's best spots to grab dinner. Nancy was telling us what she loved about Eckel was his love of all things seasonal in the chef's bounty that is Portland. She said his eyes just light up when she brings in her latest farmer's market finds, and we saw that same dreamy look in his eyes when he was explaining to us what he going to do with a batch of fresh sardines he was salting. You can tell when someone is into it, and this guy has it bad!

We went last Friday, dug our forks into some of Eckel's creations, and came away dying to return. We started with Wild Boar Ribs with a spicy-sweet peach barbeque sauce that are perhaps the ultimate bar snack. A Chilled Sweet Corn Soup topped with a sprinkle of smoked sea salt was so richly flavored, yet light, made with a vegetable stock. We followed that promising start with Fideus, which are short Portuguese-style noodles (think broken spaghetti) in a sauce of summer squash and chard with a soft baked egg attractively situated right in the middle. Something you have to have if it still on the menu is his roasted Chicken with baby artichokes, pacha beans, and aioli. I don't order chicken out very often, because I make various kickass dishes myself at home, but Eckel's chicken was fabulous. A half chicken that is bursting with juicy flavor, and the whole plate just screams of the summer season.

This food is seriously good, the vibe at BA is incredibly comfortable, and the prices are ridiculously cheap, with everything above ranging from $7 to $14. Add on to that some bargain priced wines and you have the ultimate cheap date that will satisfy your wallet and leave your palate breathless, which is pretty much what we're all looking for, isn't it?

You can also buy most of the wines off the wine list to go for 25% off, and be sure to check out Randy's Saturday afternoon free wine tastings at the back table!
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CHATTER: This article in last week's New York Times Dining Section was all about the hotdogueros of Tucson who peddle griddled bacon wrapped hot dogs topped with taco seasonings. I read this, immediately wanted to book a plane to Arizona to taste these wonders, then came up with a much more economical solution. I walked across the street from the wine shack to Kiko's Taqueria Uruapan and handed Enrique a copy of the Times story and inquired (through his son) if he might consider adding this to his repertoire. He gave me the look I immediately recognized as the same look I give people who suggest ways to improve my business. So when I checked with his son the next day to see what they though, he said they are probably going to be offering them up this Saturday at their cart on SE 13th and Lexington in Sellwood. I was overjoyed, until I suddenly realized I'm leaving on vacation early that morning. But being altruistic as ever, rather than bitterly keeping this nugget to myself, I offer it to you and hope you will take advantage of what I will sorely be missing.
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Word on the street has it that Donald Kotler, owner of the deliciously cute place Toast on SE 52nd is working on financing to open another spot at the very cool space that was formerly CAVA on SE 53rd and Foster Road. No word on what his plans are, but I can only hope this comes through, because I love his act at Toast.
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A sampling Oregon pinot noirs and commentary on the NYT site by writer Eric Asimov. The main point seeming to be to talk about how the young Oregon wine industry is more informed by winemaker choices rather than the elusive terroir that makes France's Burgundy region what it is. Not surprising, and can't say I disagree, but it is too bad their tasting is limited by the availability in their local market, which would leave most of America to believe that Oregon pinot noir at this stage is hardly worth the investment. With that I couldn't disagree more, and I only wish they could sample the very reasonably priced offerings from J. Christopher, Cameron, Grochau, Broadley, and others.
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Click here to check out the info on the upcoming "Going Whole Hog Class with Morgan Brownlow and Aaron Silverman of Tails & Trotters" at Luan Schooler's appetite inspiring Foster and Dobb's food emporium on NE 15th. For what seems a quite reasonable $20 you get a class from two pork know-it-alls who will discuss "...the European style of butchering. They will also explain the best ways to use various cuts of pork in the home kitchen and share their experiences raising the pigs." I'm guessing snacking will somehow be involved. Sounds yummy!
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Swan Lake, the "are you kidding me?" version

Um...wow?!

Frankie, you'll be missed

In his last two food columns online today at the NYT site, departing food critic Frank Bruni answers questions about the NYC dining scene that he has been asked but couldn't answer, as well as questions he wishes he was asked. Worthwhile reading, especially since w and I have an upcoming trip to NYC in October, and also a nice, appetite-inducing farewell from Bruni. Click here for his regular column, and here for the accompanying Diner's Journal blog post.

Garden insurgency

I was in trouble. The tomato insurgency was gathering steam. Those few cute little starts that seemed so passive and innocent this past spring had risen up and were threatening to take over the garden like some organic insurgency. I had to act, quickly and decisively, to thwart them. Luckily, many, many years ago, as a very young child, I learned to read, and now I put this literacy to my advantage. I happened to be perusing my friend Denise's hunger inducing blog and came across a Jacques Pepin recipe she posted for a cherry tomato gratin. A gratin! Of course. That will bring those little globular garden insurgents to their knees! If Jacques, who has achieved semi-hero status in my kitchen, says it is so, then I consider it gospel. Reading the recipe on Denise's blog, I could hardly believe that something so easy could provide the garden relief I was seeking, plus feed the large group of friend's coming over for dinner that night. Just let me say Jacques, us usual, did not disappoint. This was nothing short of fabulous, totally over-delivering for the minimal effort expended. The tomatoes soften just so, becoming infused with the herbs and garlic nestled alongside them, the crunch of the bread providing the perfect counterpoint to the lush texture and flavor. An awesome side dish with the rotisseried leg of lamb I served, and one of the best uses for the tomatoey bounty bursting out of your garden (or your farmer's market stand)!

these are all the ingredients, ready to be tossed by hand. I would of had a photo of the finished gratin. but I kind of, um, forgot to take one.....

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Cherry Tomato Gratin
from Jacques Pepin

ingredients:
1 1/4 pounds cherry tomatoes (approx 3.5 cups)
3 oz day-old french bread (about 3.5 cups) cut into 1″ cubes
4-6 cloves garlic, peeled & sliced (about 2 T)
1/4 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 T virgin olive oil (I use a bit more, usually)
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese (even good w/o this)

method:
Preheat the over to 375. Wash tomatoes and discard stems. Mix tomatoes and all ingredients in a bowl. Transfer the mixture to a 6-cup oven-proof dish. Bake at 375 for 40 minutes, serve immediately.

I am a food geek

B: "Hi, my name is Bruce, and I am a food geek"
(a smattering of applause is heard from the crowd, followed by a group "Hi, Bruce")
B: "Thanks everyone. I knew I had a problem when even though I live in Portland, 3000 miles away, I find myself transfixed by the change in restaurant critics at the New York Times. I was a huge Frank Bruni fan, and am somewhat agitated that this new guy, this Sam Sifton, won't give me the same fix that Frank did. I wish I could just stop reading, but I can't. Just today I read this blog post from thefoodsection.com about reaction in the blogosphere about Sifton's appointment. I find myself ignoring my work responsibilities just to read lines like "Sam Sifton kinda looks like Simon Pegg. That's not a bad thing." and "This Sam Sifton sounds like a complete, total jerk and douchebag." and wondering if it's true. Then, to top it off, I even ignored incoming phone calls to read two different Q&A's with Sifton from the Times site that I found here and here. I know I need help, I need to get my life back. But I hear he's quite brilliant....and he likes tacos.......and he seems to have a good sense of humor...and, oh god, I need help......"(fade to black)
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one year ago today @ E.D.T.: your next dinner party, part 2: entrée and side dish!

I admit it, I AM easily amused

inspired by Euro traffic signs
click image to enlarge

Ingulge your senses for a good cause!

I get a ton of stuff from PR flaks around town. Being somewhat cynical as to their motives, most of it gets round filed. But sometimes, from some people (like my pal Lisa at BroussardHill), I will do my pimping best....

Tickets have just gone sale for "Indulge @ the Jupiter Hotel" September 24th. An event billing itself as an Eastside Neighborhood Dining & Spirits Fete benefitting the very worthy Ecotrust Farm to School Program. For what seems like an incredibly reasonable $30 advance purchase ticket, you get the delicious opportunity of sampling food and drink, from among other Eat.Drink.Think. favorites, Alma Chocolate, Beaker & Flask, Bunk Sandwiches, Laurelhurst Market, House Spirits, Navarre, Boedecker Cellars, Tabla, New Deal Distillery, and a posse of other leading indulgence enablers on the PDX eating and imbibing scene. Click here to go to the event website and learn more and get a full list of pleasure purveyors!

Prosciutto, what fashionable chickens are wearing!

I'm a huge thigh guy. Breasts are okay, but thighs are where my particular fetish lies. So what was I doing with a package of boneless, skinless chicken breasts in my freezer? Why did I even have them? I have no idea. Probably bought them on sale at the market. And not just small, pre-pubescent breasts. These rather gargantuan breasts look like they were the unholy offspring of Anna Nicole Smith (and unlike Ms. Smith, these were all-natural, hormone free breasts). Like pork loin and turkey, chicken breasts are only as good as whatever they get slathered and seasoned with, so what to do with these big naturals? It wasn't that hard to come up with ideas, especially when you hew to the mantra that "Everything is better with cured pork". Large breasts, lovingly wrapped in slices Prosciutto di Parma, a version of poultry lingerie perhaps? So with that somewhat disturbing thought in mind, they still needed something else. For that finishing flavor burst and because what's hidden is always more fun (like lingerie I suppose) I came up with this stuffing, and it worked out exceptionally well, but you could easily sub in any number of equally acceptable flavoring alternatives. Some very quick assembly, a few minutes over the coals, and in well under an hour you can have yourself breasts that would be the envy of more than a few less fortunates!
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Prosciutto Wrapped Stuffed Chicken Breasts
an E.D.T. original
ingredients:
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley
1 small shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons pine nuts, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons finely grated Parmiagiano-Reggiano
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Six slices of Prosciutto di Parma

method:
1- Start coals in barbeque. Rinse off breasts and pat dry. Take a sharp knife and carefully make pockets in the thick side of breast. Don't slice end to end, make your cut in the middle, then work the tip of your knife blade into the ends to make space there. Season lightly with salt and pepper on both sides.

2-Combine next six ingredients and season lightly with salt and pepper. Using your fingers carefully stuff pockets in breasts (breast pockets?!) with stuffing mix. As you can see from the picture, they don't have to be perfectly clean, as the breast gets wrapped in the prosciutto. Of course I'm also not the neatest cook, so you can probably do better.










3-Lay out two slices of prosciutto lengthwise, slightly overlapping them. Lay stuffed breasts in the middle across the grain, and wrap each end of the prosciutto up and over the breast. Repeat with the other breast. Hopefully you'll have a couple of slices of prosciutto leftover, as I did, to enjoy with an icy glass of French rosé while the breasts are cooking!











4-When coals are ready, dump on one side of your grill, and when fire is medium hot, carefully lay wrapped breasts on the grill over the fire. Watch carefully as the melting fat from the prosciutto has an annoying habit of starting fires in the grill. Cook on one side for 6-10 minutes (depending on size of breast), then flip over and cook other side (if one breast is larger than the other, call a plastic surgeon. Hahahaha...um, just kidding. Move the smaller one to the side of the grill off the fire while continuing to cook the larger piece). When chicken is done, transfer to a cutting board and cover lightly with foil. Let rest for ten minutes, then cut across the grain to make 1/2"-3/4" medallions. Arrange attractively on your plate (a side of polenta was lovely, btw), and enjoy!

cooks note: I like the prosciutto sliced slightly thicker than the paper thin slices you usually get. It wraps easier and holds together better. When is the chicken done? That's always a tough question. One website said cook it to 170*. You do that and you'll end up with a bone dry, leather like piece of bird. I would say 140-150*. I didn't stick mine with the instaread, I just used my best judgment and it worked out fine.
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one year ago today @ E.D.T.: a dinner party in three parts. Part one: appetizers!

Strange fruit & why I love Italy!

My friend Josh just walked in to the wine shack with a handful of longan. I was clueless, they looked like some sort of hard nut to me. He said the cooks at Jade Teahouse where he works tie rubber bands around the stems and hang them above the line to snack on while they cook. He said you just bite the thin, semi-soft outer shell to crack them, then peel the shell and eat the lychee like fruit inside, avoiding the small pit (like a cherry pit). The verdict? LOVE THEM!! Not as sweet-spicy as lychee, which for me is a good thing, with a slightly nutty flavor. Soft, sort of cherry-like texture. Really cool little orbs of deliciousness. This is absolutely going to be my new favorite snack at home. I'm guessing Asian markets carry them. Wherever they are hiding, they will be mine!
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(said with an Italian accent): "Why, si signor, we'd be happy to loan you the money. If you could just drop off 100 prosciutto legs and a case of Brunello di Montalcino, we'll have a check ready in the morning. Grazie!"
Is it any wonder the Italians love life, food, and wine so much? Apparently, in what to me seems a remarkably enlightened economic decision, banks in Italy are considering accepting legs of prosciutto di parma (along with fine wines like Brunellos and Barolos) as collateral for loans. This slice of only-in-Europe-life was in an article today in the UK Guardian (thanks for the tip @karmeno on twitter). They already accept huge wheels of Parmagiano-Reggiano as loan collateral that they store in bank owned warehouses where they age it, and if the cheesemaker defaults they sell it. Try this at any U.S. bank....go ahead....I'll wait. What's that I hear? Laughter? Derision? And you can't even imagine this back and forth going on between a bank chairman and a U.S. cabinet official:
"We've done it with cheese, why not with prosciutto and good wines like Brunello di Montalcino and chianti classico?" said Gianni Zonin, chairman of the Banca Popolare di Vicenza and head of wine producer Zonin.

"This is a great idea, it has my blessing," said Luca Zaia, the Italian agriculture minister.

Ah, Italy, is it any wonder I dream of laying in your pork cured bosom?

PDX Quick Bites: the Po' House; Nong's Khao man Gai; and this 'n that

The Po' House
I wasn't quite sure what to make of The Po' House (@thepohouse on twitter) cart on SE 44th and Hawthorne. I hadn't really checked out their menu, even though it is just a few blocks from our house. Then w told me Saturday she had just had some crazy shrimp etouffée there for lunch, so when the opportunity came to stop by during a bike ride Sunday, I was in (that's w looking all cute while she buys my lunch...which only makes her more attractive...in her nutcase bike helmet). A New Orleans style cart, we ordered their shrimp etouffée ($6, and a steal) and a red snapper po' boy (also a great deal at $6), with a side of cheese grits (very nice, spicy flavor but a smidge too runny). Um, I just have to say that etouffée they are making was absolutely fucking incredible! Made from a dark, remarkably intense roux, this had oodles of buttery and a depth of flavor I would happily drown my taste buds in. Ridiculously cheap, this is as good as I have ever had, New Orleans experiences included, with plump shrimp adding their own rich texture...wow! The snapper po' boy was also spicy and delicious, with lightly crusted fresh snapper filet tucked with veggies in a crusty roll. Put this on your to-stop-by list soon and prepare to be impressed! The also make a damn fine lemonade to wash it down, but order a small or medium for next to nothing, or share a large, which comes in a quart-sized tub.
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Nong's Khao Man Gai
Chicken and rice. If you asked me to go to lunch and said that's what we'd be having with no further explanation, I would probably find an excuse to bail. After Monday, if you asked me go with you to Nong's Khao Man Gai food cart on the SW 10th and Alder cart pod for chicken and rice, I would be there before you finished asking. So how does something so simple become so good? I have no idea, but this was absolutely astonishing. Plain, yet moist and succulent, poached chicken on an ethereally scented jasmine rice. I'm almost speechless trying to describe how good it is, especially when you dip it into cart owner Nong Poonsukwattana's dipping sauce made with fresh ginger, garlic, sugar, fermented soy beans and chili. Chicken and rice is all she does. Apparently in Thailand it's tradition if you have a food cart you do one thing...and in Nong's case do it fantastically well. I washed mine down with a bottle of Palm Juice, which was slightly sweet, tasting like a blend of vanilla and coconut. Next time I'll bring a cup of ice, a slice of lime, and a flask of rum and make a killer cocktail! For $6 Nong's chicken & rice reminds how freakishly well we eat off of our PDX carts. For further info, click here for the Oregonian article on Nong's.
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Was sorry, but not surprised to hear the news about Caprial's closing their doors on Portland Food and Drink. Business I know had been way off. What I didn't know, but was detailed in this story in The Oregonian, was the bankruptcy filed by owners Caprial and John Pence in 2006 that they couldn't recover from. Interesting backstory from the O.
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Sweet story (click here), "Ode to a Greek Diner", by very talented Portland writer Nancy Rommelmann on Niki's, a Greek café on the corner of SE Morrison where it runs onto the bridge. Details the reality of I'm sure so many old school cafés around the country. Check out her story on zesterdaily.com, a very worthy food writing site.
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Also Oregonian related, today online Karen Brook's has a short article about the two carts moving to the new cart pod on N. Mississippi and Skidmore called the Mississippi Marketplace. We walked by the other day and they did a remarkable job renovating the building on the corner that will house a beer joint, with the food carts surrounding it in the parking lot. The first two sign ups are the highly regarded Sugar Cube and Nuevo Mexico carts. Click here for Brook's story.
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Not to overstate what everyone knows, but we had another round of pizza perfection at Apizza Scholls last night. We always fall for the half margarita and half sausage, and I have to stop myself from finishing my half of the pie....and w's! Their crust knows no peer in Portland, blistered with black spots, crispy from outside edge to the center. Plus their caesar salad is one of the best in town. My wine tip: slurp down glasses (or bottles) of the 2006 Casamatta Sangiovese (and not to shamelessly pimp myself, but it is available at VINO if you need it), a perfect fit with their version of pizza heaven. Better news is that Apizza is now tossing their pies 7 days a week, which hopefully will relieve some of the pressure, although it was rocking as usual last night. If you think I'm not grateful their front door is just three blocks from mine, you'd best think again. It makes signing up and going home for a pre-dinner libation to avoid waiting in the restaurant all too convenient!

Le Vengeance du Grand-Meres!

In another affront to French sensibilities, an amateur American home cook has taken, and if I may be not so humble perfected, a classic of French home cooking. Like the Russians who have repeatedly knocked twitter offline in an attempt to silence a Georgian critic, I would not be too surprised to see the radical Grand-meres sans Frontiers attempt to take down Eat.Drink.Think. in a misguided attempt at preserving French culture. So while you can I would suggest making this little piece of French farm life tonight or saving it to your recipe file before those tech-savvy cheveaux-bleu exact their revenge!

Now you might read the recipe and think "that sounds like the perfect dish for fall" and you'd be right. But on a cool, cloudy summer morning when I actually was wearing slippers around the house while deciding what to make for dinner, it sounded pretty damn good, too. I grabbed this recipe off of epicurious, where apparently a group of Gourmet Magazine editors had it at the Paris bistro Chez Maitre Paul. The name roughly translates to "farmwife's chicken" and as they said "poulet à la fermière contains a farmwife's bounty—chicken, cheese, vegetables, and herbs." That it does, and it also contains a healthy dose of comfort. With a couple of minor tweaks it really turned out well, and w and I were loving it washed down with a glass or two of grenache blanc from the French producer Abel Clement (which btw, if you find it probably is selling for around $8 a bottle!). Lighter on the palate than you would think (which made it delicious even on a warm summer night) and filling to the tummy this is exactly what you would want to come home to on a cool autumn evening. And whatever you do don't forget the baguette to soak up the rich, buttery-creamy sauce!

le dîner, just out of the oven!

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Poulet a la Fermiere
(Gratineed Chicken in Cream Sauce)
adapted from epicurious

yield: makes 4 servings
ingredients:
2 pounds chicken thighs and drumsticks
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
6 fresh parsley sprigs
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf (not California)
4 carrots, cut diagonally into 1-inch-thick slices
1 cup frozen small whole onions, thawed and patted dry
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 pound small (1 1/2-inch) boiling potatoes, peeled and halved (I didn't worry about getting every bit of skin off the potatoes and they were fine-bb)
2/3 cup crème fraîche
1 cup frozen petite baby peas, thawed
1 cup coarsely grated Gruyère

method:
1-Pat chicken dry and season with salt and pepper.

the chicken thighs, halfway through browning

2-Heat butter in a 12-inch ovenproof deep heavy sauté pan over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then brown chicken all over, in batches if necessary, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cover. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan.

3-Tie parsley and thyme together in a bundle, then add to pan with bay leaf carrots and onions, stirring to coat with fat. Add wine and deglaze by boiling over high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add broth and chicken, skin sides up, with any juices from plate, and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Add potatoes and salt and pepper to taste and simmer, covered, until chicken is cooked through and potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

the chicken just before going under the broiler

4-Preheat broiler. Discard thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Stir in crème fraîche, peas, and salt and pepper to taste, then turn chicken in sauce to coat. Sprinkle dish all over with Gruyère and broil 4 to 5 inches from heat until browned and sauce is bubbling, 3 to 4 minutes.

Simplify

Sometimes its the simplest things that result in outsized satisfaction. For example....
Olive oil-garlic-rosemary, the Holy Trinity of lamb marinade. Three ingredients that exemplify that the sum is greater than the individual parts, especially the way the jacked up the satisfaction level of a rotisseried leg of lamb I did the other day. In this marinade they pair perfectly with the rich meatiness of the lamb. Now this marinade is really complicated so pay attention. Maybe have your four-year-old help if it gets too deep:
Mix together: four tablespoons or so chopped rosemary + 5 (or 6 or 7 or...) minced peeled garlic cloves + 1/3 cup olive oil + 1 or more hours of time in the fridge to let the goodness soak into the meat = meat that's worth fighting for the last piece.
Okay, one more step is to prick your leg 'o lamb all over with a paring knife, making little entrance wounds so its easier for the goo to work its way into the meat. Season the whole thing with S&P before you truss it up (or better yet have your butcher do the tying for you after boning the leg, then make your slits in the meat around the string) on the rotisserie skewer and you are golden. My 6 pound piece of lamb took about 90 minutes over moderate heat on the Weber after a quick 15 minute shot in the kitchen oven of 450* heat to give it some crust. To know when it is done all you need is your instaread to reach about 128* and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. This came off the rotisserie looking astonishingly juicy and with an exquisite brown crust. Start carving slices for your lucky guests and they'll love even more than they already do!

BTW, if you're looking for a perfect gift for the Weber aficionado, then you have to bestow upon them the Weber rotisserie attachment (pictured below). I LOVE mine, and it has changed my life for the better in so many delicious ways, as you can see from that magazine-cover worthy roast chicken at left (and that pic was taken w/ the crappy iPhone cam. for my recipe and pics of the rotisserie in action, click here). If you're tempted to get one for yourself, don't even waste time trying to rationalize it, just do it! One perfectly crisped chicken later, you'll feel like a tool for even thinking you had to justify it.

No, I won't be eating this anytime soon, dammit!

Hmm, yes, this sounds lovely....
"a five-piece row of single-bite amuse bouches, one with foie gras, another with salmon and another with sweetbreads nestled in a crunchy cornet."
And why not try the....
"lavender honey-glazed duck for two"
Perhaps followed by......
"Poached prawns dressed with crème fraîche, diced green apple and lime juice and then molded into a thin horizontal column surfaced with thinly sliced, vivid avocado."
And since I still have room, let's have....
"a slow-poached egg with a brown butter hollandaise and a Parmesan foam boasted not only crisp, beautiful asparagus but also a Parmesan tuile."

Click here to read all about why the NYT's Frank Bruni, on his way out the door as the most influential restaurant critic in America, bestowed an über-coveted four star rating on NYC's Eleven Madison Park restaurant. Sadly New York City has never seemed further away from Portland.

Pic from the NYT review

It's all about performance!

Gearhead Alert!! Bike dudes (and everyone else) have to check out this video I was tipped to by @lancearmtsrong (yeah, THAT Lance) on twitter. Too funny!

An honest drink

Does anything have more integrity than a well made martini? I would posit that the answer is a resounding "no". I suppose it has much to do with its simplicity. Two ingredients: gin and vermouth. Not much wiggle room in that. There's also its stature as one of the long time classics of cocktail culture. 100+ years and counting. It has seen the posers come and go. Cosmos will have their 15 minutes of bar time, the Tiki craze comes and goes every 10 to 15 years, and the martini just sits their watching it all with a liquid, icy stare. Always read to offer that sage comfort that comes from experience. The other drinks have to respect the martini as well. I mean, who do you think would win a fight between a martini and lemon drop? Exactly!

These thoughts came to my mind as I was sitting at the bar of Portland's Benson Hotel yesterday, enjoying what I happen to consider the cities finest martini, made with the proper respect by a barman who came dressed for the dance in a vest and tie. Tanqueray gin, with a splash of vermouth, served in a soul soothing, generously sized portion, enough left over in a mini carafe snuggled into a tumbler of ice on the side to provide almost another full drink. With an appetizer of three olives strung merrily on a cocktail pick, this is nothing less than a piece of cocktail art. For a very reasonable...especially for a hotel bar...$8, does the wisdom gained from experience come an cheaper?

In case you think the drink above looks a bit different than the description, so lost in reverie was I that I didn't think to take a pic until halfway through!

The sweet life in Paris

Nice profile (click here) in the Washington Post about blogger/author/ex-pat David Leibovitz and the reality of his sometimes not so sweet life in Paris. I love his blog, which always seems to make me crave something dessert-ish. Appropriate I guess, seeing that he is an ex-pastry chef at Chez Panisse and he spends his new-ish life in Paris writing of his cooking and eating adventures in and around that most beautiful of cities (and the world). I also l0ve that pic at left from the article of David in his Parisian kitchen. His blog, fittingly titled "Living the Sweet Life in Paris" is absolutely worth the bookmark. And he hasn't totally bought into life in Paris, maintaining a slightly jaded eye, as evidenced by this excerpt from the article:
"Show him a tourist blinded by the City of Light, and he'll show you someone who needs to be set straight. The city is so clean, they say. But you almost stepped in dog doo, he'll say. The cafe culture is so rich, they say. But the coffee itself is horrific, he'll say."