An honest drink

Does anything have more integrity than a well made martini? I would posit that the answer is a resounding "no". I suppose it has much to do with its simplicity. Two ingredients: gin and vermouth. Not much wiggle room in that. There's also its stature as one of the long time classics of cocktail culture. 100+ years and counting. It has seen the posers come and go. Cosmos will have their 15 minutes of bar time, the Tiki craze comes and goes every 10 to 15 years, and the martini just sits their watching it all with a liquid, icy stare. Always read to offer that sage comfort that comes from experience. The other drinks have to respect the martini as well. I mean, who do you think would win a fight between a martini and lemon drop? Exactly!

These thoughts came to my mind as I was sitting at the bar of Portland's Benson Hotel yesterday, enjoying what I happen to consider the cities finest martini, made with the proper respect by a barman who came dressed for the dance in a vest and tie. Tanqueray gin, with a splash of vermouth, served in a soul soothing, generously sized portion, enough left over in a mini carafe snuggled into a tumbler of ice on the side to provide almost another full drink. With an appetizer of three olives strung merrily on a cocktail pick, this is nothing less than a piece of cocktail art. For a very reasonable...especially for a hotel bar...$8, does the wisdom gained from experience come an cheaper?

In case you think the drink above looks a bit different than the description, so lost in reverie was I that I didn't think to take a pic until halfway through!

Quick Bites PDX: Beaker and Flask

What you see at the left is almost reason enough to be celebrating the opening of Beaker and Flask, Kevin Ludwig's long awaited labor of love that has been in the works for almost two years. In any event, it is here, we were at the opening night Thursday, and the Coltrane! Coltrane! Coltrane! cocktail (a perfect blend of Gin, Amer Picon, Peach, Lemon Bitters) pictured was the perfect way to settle in what immediately has vaulted to the top of my favorite PDX bar list. The place was rocking, but Kevin has put together the New York Yankees of bartenders with Tim Davey (pouring with intense concentration my Coltrane! at right) and Lance Mayhew helping to swing the heavy lumber behind the bar.

This is a great space, open, with light on this summer evening streaming in through the wraparound windows along the west wall. The very attractive concrete topped bar, with extremely comfortable bar stools, is the spot to hang so you can watch these pros work. The opening night crowd was like a who's who of Portland's micro distilling scene, and everyone was having a great time. Kevin has a rep like no one else, and the vibe in the room was a celebration of all things well-made and alcoholic. w and I indulged in some great treats off of the limited opening night menu, and even with the slam, the kitchen kept up and was plating up some seriously delicious gastrobar food. If it is this good on opening night, then we have a ton to look forward to! Here's some pictorial highlights....

That is our starter of sand dabs on the left, and w's plate of scallops with aioli, fennel, and a slice of bacon on the right. I had an excellent pork belly with clams: the ultimate surf and turf?

Kevin working it at the bar with Lance giving him some form of
encouragement that is best left unsaid!
bar fly's

Barolo and booze: who would've thunk?!

I was talking my friend Athena about cocktails. Now Athena, along with her husband Stewart also happens to produce my new favorite Oregon pinot noir at their Boedecker Cellars. She and Stewart also happen to enjoy a bit of a cocktail appreciation, and I was telling her how I've been getting into all these new and classic cocktails. We both agreed that part of the fun is going to the liquor store with all of its seedy, semi-illicit attraction. And I was also telling her about the Darkside Cocktail, which combines the best of both our worlds: wine and booze. It is made with Chinato, which is Barolo from Italy's Piedmont region (made from 100% nebbiolo grapes) that has been, according to The Washington Post's Jason Wilson "infused with quinine bark and other herbs and spices, including rhubarb root, star anise, citrus peel, gentian, fennel, juniper and cardamom seed." I've heard that Chinato has been popping up on various cockatil menus as the latest "in" ingredient. I had a cocktail made with Chinato recently at Portland's best bar, the Teardrop Lounge, where über-talented and very personable bartender/owner Daniel Shoemaker whipped me up their "Bejewelled" (gin, chinato, yellow chartreuse) which was delicious (FYI- get in soon and try their Fastback Cocktail, made with Bulleit Bourbon, paired with one of their spicy appetizers. A match made in alcoholic heaven!). I got the recipe for this Darkside Cocktail from Wilson's column, and it was fabulous. of course anything made from gin has a pretty good chance of gaining my appreciation, and the combination here with herbally/fruity Chinato and citrusy/bitter Peychaud really nailed it on the pleasure meter. A perfect starter before my Fastback and snack!
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Darkside Cocktail
From Jason Wilson/The Washington Post

1 serving

ingredients:
Ice
2 1/2 ounces gin, preferably Plymouth brand
1 ounce Barolo Chinato, preferably Marcarini brand (see headnote)
3 dashes Peychaud bitters
Twist of lime peel
1 whole star anise (optional)

method:
Fill a mixing glass two-thirds full with ice, then add the gin, Barolo Chinato and bitters. Stir vigorously for 30 seconds, then strain into a cocktail (martini) glass. Twist the lime peel over the drink, then drop it in, along with the star anise, if desired.

A toast to well being!

You know how certain things just make you feel comfortable and enhance your sense of well being? A comfy cashmere sweater. A fuzzy puppy. A warm feather comforter on a cool autumn evening. A $200 Nordstrom gift card. A confident bartender who really knows his way around a bottle of gin. Okay, maybe that last one speaks more to me and my needs, but hey, this is my blog, so there ya have it!

Every time I walk into Portland's Ten-01 and see their master mixologist Kelly Swenson behind the bar, I know things are going to get cozy and my personal well being is about to get a lift. We stopped by for some happy hour nibbles and libations yesterday when I took the afternoon off from the wine shack to celebrate w's birthday weekend. There's a sort if illicit thrill that goes with having cocktails out at 3:30 in the afternoon, and I can think of no better place than Ten-01. Besides Kelly's mad skills behind the bar, they have way above average cheap bites (those are their crispy Thai ribs at right) from 3-6. We ordered a couple of drinks...a Paloma for w (that put my attempt to shame and I'm stealing his version) and Kelly's Martini 1812 (pictured above) for me. I asked Kelly about the name and he said that is the year it was invented. Now Kelly forgotten more about making drinks than I'll ever know, so it sounded good. But I did further Googling this morning and found what I think may be the real reference to 1812, which is the year Alessandro Martini, who founded the Martini and Rossi vermouth company, was born. Whatever the reason for the name, this was an outstanding, exquisitely balanced cocktail. A three-to-one mix of gin and Carpano vermouth, with a drizzle of Maraschino liqueur and a dash of orange bitters and an amarena cherry for garnish, this also had a lovely golden tint that made it perfectly matched to the cool fall afternoon outside. So a toast to Alessandro and Kelly, two people who continue to enhance my world!
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Martini 1812
From Kelly Swenson of Ten-01

ingredients:
Three parts gin
One part Carpano Antica vermouth
1 teaspoon maraschino liqueur
Dash orange bitters
Preserved amarena cherry for garnish

method:
Fill cocktail mixer half full of ice. Add gin, vermouth, maraschino liqueur, and bitters. Stir to combine and chill. Drop cherry into martini glass and strain cocktail into it. Enjoy!