Lamby goodness and other delights!

Summer dinner parties...is there anything better? Okay, you'll hear the same thing during fall and winter "braising" season, but for this night, it was as good as it gets. I love the planning and executing, and luckily my partner in culinary crime Wendy does as well. I hadn't done a grilled leg of lamb for over a year, and I have a foolproof recipe in the repertoire from epicurious that is SO good and wows the crowd every time. The rest of the main course was pure farmer's market, with roasted fingerlings from Rossi Farms, and a beautiful Caprese salad W put together with fresh tomatoes, basil, and mozz that was the epitome of summer. Not to get ahead of the starters, which besides some cheese we picked up at Pastaworks (still the best cheese shop in town) was highlighted by the craziest appetizers ever from our friend Denise, who brought in FOUR platters of sashimi (tuna/salmon/scallops/squid) that she and K did themselves at home with some killer fish from Uwajimaya out of Beaverton. Wow!!! I forgot to take pics, but trust me when I say the fish was off the hook fresh and clean. Paired with the refreshing delight of G&T's and rosé, this was a most auspicious beginning. Dinner, and several bottles of red wine (including a fab 1995 Peter Michael "les Pavots" Cali red GKT brought...thanks!!), ended with another really awesome homage to farmer's markets and summer in the form of fresh peaches and blueberries bathed in a blueberry balsamic syrup that was incredibly easy and stupidly delicious. Here's some photos of the happy event...yummy memories!!
Hail to the chefs!

Somewhere a three legged lamb is smiling that we are all so happy!











"Eat me!"








Reinforcements on the way!!

















W's dog Chopper, dreaming of lamb dinners yet to come!!

What a fantastic night! Craig Carothers at VINO for two sets of his funny, touching, and brilliantly played music. Craig is an ex-Portland singer/songwriter who now resides in Nashville. I saw him here in Ptown a few months ago at a house concert, and broached the idea of a concert at VINO. He was up for it, so last Saturday it finally came together and it was amazing. Thanks to all who attended for your enthusiasm and support, and it makes me anxiously await the nest show September 9th featuring Hood River's Django's Cadillac and their swinging gypsy jazz, fronted by my friend Kat Baker's incredible voice. Hopefully Craig's show was the first of many here at the wine shack!

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And if you haven't seen it in the theatre, I recommend you checkout (or put on your "to rent" list) The Devil Wears Prada, a very entertaining flick starring Merle Streep and a cast of .....um, others. No, this movie won't change your life, but it is a very well done piece of Hollywood lightness, and with Streep's deliciously wicked Anna Wintour-like character leading the way, this slice of fashion life is a great escape!

OK Go - Here It Goes Again

Not that I have too much free time here at the wine shack, but in the course of some "serious" research, I came across this amazingly fun video on youtube. OK Go is a great band who does some crazily choreographed videos. This is a totally fun diversion. I would suggest cranking up the sound on your speakers!

Proving once again that it's not what you know, it's who you know, I am giving my deepest thanks to my good friend Jake and his lovely wife Sarah for whisking Wendy and me and two other couples away from this wretched Portland heat over the weekend and sharing his families mountain cabin on Penland Lake in eastern Oregon. Not that I don't like sweating in my sweltering Portland bed while I'm trying to forget how freaking hot it is, but there is no better way to beat the heat than spending a weekend with friends eating, drinking, hiking, swimming in a mountain lake and just generally lazing about. w and I left after work Saturday afternoon and made the four hour trek, driving through the beautiful Columbia Gorge, past the farm and wheat fields around Heppner, then into the Blue Mountains, delighting in feeling the temperature drop as we wound our way up to the lake with visions of refreshing adult beverages dancing in our heads. Arriving at the cabin, the first order of business was making cool and fizzy Tanqueray and tonics, not only the perfect summer cocktail, but perhaps the ultimate vacation beverage. Jake had already been cooking all day, getting his famous lasagna ready, and the smell of Marcella's Bolognese sauce had permeated throughout the cabin. If you're asking "Who's Marcella?", then do yourself a favor and grab a copy of Marcella Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking....you'll thank me later! Jake and Sarah , having much food credibility, had also been busy making fresh pasta and a wickedly rich béchamel to layer in the lasagna. What a scene to walk into!! Here's Jake busy assembling so that we might eat better:
Not a bad kitchen view, huh? Well, the lasagna was off the hook, incredibly rich and satisfying and washed down by a few bottles of vino rosso, among them the lipsmacking 2003 Zenato Valpolicella Ripassa and the head banging 2005 Owen Roe Abbot's Table....what a way to go!
After a game of Apples to Apples (an amazingly fun group game), it was off to bed full, happy, sleepy and ready for more!

w and I woke up remarkably early the next morning, sneaking out of the house while everyone else was sleeping to embark on an ass-kicker of a hike up Little Bald Mountain. A five mile round trip through some beautiful high forest with an elevation gain from 4300' to 5300', this was just the thing to sweat out the previous night's indulgences. Chopper, w's trooper of an Aussie shepherd, kept the pace, and we were all out of breath by the summit. Here's a shot looking back at Penland Lake way-y-y-y below us (that little speck in the middle of the picture...again click on the pic to enlarge).
After a quick trip back down the mountain, we spent the afternoon swimming, eating, talking, and drinking rosé. Unfortunately w and the other couples who were there had to leave late Sunday afternoon, but with more eating and drinking ahead, Jake, Sarah and I bravely soldiered on. I for one had to get busy because it was my turn for edible payback, and the kitchen was calling. There are few things more satisfying in my personal food world than a roast chicken on the Weber, so that was a must. Along with the perfect fowl, I made up a batch of farmer's market risotto with summer squash, fresh corn cut off the cob, wild mushrooms, and fresh chopped basil...all in all comfort food defined! Another very restful night's sleep, some quick cleanup in the morning, then a conversation and music filled drive back to "reality" with J&S, with wonderful memories firmly etched in my food memory bank!!

7/20/2006 4:30pm
Yeah, this 90+ degree weather is a bit harsh, but there is as always a silver lining. Because nothing puts the chill on an evening like some great rosé wine, especially when it's paired with some killer chow. Luckily my pals Monique and The Handsome One who have Castagna restaurant over on SE Hawthorne understand the simplicity of this equation and have instituted a series of rosé dinners over the next few weeks, featuring different rosés from various Euro wine regions, and pairing foods from these areas to match the pale pink deliciousness filling our glasses with refreshment and our heads with thoughts of a Mediterranean nature. Last night was the kickoff dinner, focusing on Spain. And it was, as expected from one of the two best restaurants in Portland, outstanding. Three courses paired with one white and two rosados.
I was joined at table by my friend and confidant DOR, plus my sister Kathleen sporting her newly broken toe, bro-in-law Dave, and nephew Brendan. I got there a bit early and was treated to my favorite cocktail, a beautifully balanced negroni, by Monique who wanted to try out this fancy-schmancy new sweet vermouth she stocked their bar with. Quite good, but then again when your drinking future is in the hands of the queen of cocktails and one of the nicest bartenders ever, the lovely Suzanne, then how bad can anything be?!
Here's a peek at the menu of the night's delights.....
If you can't see the above, click on the image to enlarge it!

We settled in, and were treated to a first course of four different tapas plates, all supremely delicious and taking my mind and stomach right back to Spain. Everything was so simple, yet so satisfying, exactly the way truly good food should be.
DOR showing off some way too good Mejillones con Azafran

We moved on through a few glasses of chilled grape juice, onto our stunning lamb chop entrée with an exceptionally intense romesco sauce that had us swooning...crazy good!!
the lovely Kathleen and her even more lovely lamb chops and romesco ...yummmm!






DOR doing his best "oh my fucking god this lamb is so good" expression!





We were having so much fun, enjoying Monique's hospitality and The Handsome One's stellar edible creations, plus the waitstaff at Castagna and their adjoining café are probably the nicest in town (right up there with the crew at Three Doors Down...btw: the other best restaurant in PDX!). Later on Dawn, DOR's vivacious wife, joined us, and then my friend Wendy put in an appearance just in time to help finish the last glass of Mesoneros de Castilla Rosado. A most fulfilling night, with good friends, family, and of course awesome food. Talk about your holy trinities!!

7/8/2006
A quick shout out to those who love their sangiovese's dark, rich, complex, and delicious. I went to Gino's (8051 SE 13th, 503.233.4613) just down the street from VINO with Melissa after last night's rocking tasting of northeast Italian red wines to grab a bite to eat and have some refreshing beverage. Eric was in fine form behind the bar, offering his usual blend of helpful advice and withering commentary. After a pint each of hoppy goodness in the form of Walking Man Brewing's IPA, I ordered the lamb on fried polenta because Eric strongly recommended it as the deal. It was delicious, but the best thing was the 1999 Felsina Chianti Classico Reserva off of their wine list at the ridiculous price of $40 a pop. This was awesome Chianti. It can't get much better than this guys. A couple years of bottle age have smoothed out those rough edges, making this pure pleasure and the perfect food partner. And they don't have much left, so get in there and grab your share while you can. You'll love it! Oh, memo to Washington winemaker guy who thinks his sangioveses are worth $30+ per bottle: how dare you when the new and crazy good 2001 Felsina CCR that kicks your overripe, over-oaked bottles to the curb can be had for less than thirty bucks per.

7/5/2006
Well, managed to come back with all ten fingers intact from Suzanne and David's wedding/fireworks extravaganza, and not too much other physical damage from all the indulgences! The wedding took place at The Lazy Bastard Ranch which is about 12 miles northeast of Astoria in Washington. Great spot. A guy who had a restaurant on Vashon Island sold that place, bought the ranch to do some sustainable farming and pasture fed cattle growing (or whatever they call it). It was a great ceremony, very relaxed, full of joy and informality but very touching, and Suzanne and David couldn't have been happier. I can't remember if I've ever cried at a wedding before, but this one got me! Of course, being restaurant people (they're both bartenders at Castagna), the food was off the hook. Nate from Castagna was in charge of the edibles, and he was rocking it. The beverages were flowing in abundance, the crowd was so fun, and Suzanne's fireworks show was the perfect finale.
To Suzanne and David...here's to long lives and lots of love together!!

Here's a few pictures of the festivities....
Nate feeling it beforehand!
David overseeing the action....
Monique and the Handsome One awaiting the arrival of the bride....
....and here she is, arriving in style!
Suzanne and mama alighting....
Doing the deed
Isn't he cute? And delicious, too!!

7/4/2006...10:00am
What do I love more than giving dinner parties, besides nothing?? Last night, another happy collision of great friends and great food at the pad. I've always loved the whole process. The planning, the shopping, the set up. Even the cleaning before hand...I mean if I didn't have dinner parties, how much motivation would I have to clean this mess?! So it was with much anticipation I looked forward to tonight's soiree. Shopped at the Hollywood farmer's market Saturday...which I love (more next week on that subject)... to grab a few things. Fresh cut peonies at crazy cheap prices, favas in all their prep-demanding goodness, and a 5# bag of fingerling potatoes from the angels of the earth at Rossi Farms, which ironically I didn't get to last night....warning to anyone coming over in the next ten days: get ready to have your solanaceae feed bag on!
The table awaits!

Before I share my menu, one very fortunate disclaimer: I will almost always let my friends bring something over when they offer. Because not only am I blessed with there most amazingly talented, creative, interesting group of dining companions I could ever hope for, and I love them dearly, but they also share my healthy obsession with all things food related and are fucking incredibly talented cooks. So not only are all dinner invitations eagerly accepted, but dinner party donations are most welcome! They thoroughly get that whole "live to eat" versus "eat to live" attitude....I'm guessing you know which side we fall on. Okay, enough of that, here's the menu:

* Appetizers provided by J&K, delicious cantaloupe wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma resting on and surrounded by a garden of nasturtiums, and then M shows up with a fabulous plate of pork short ribs and crispy chicken from one of her favorite Chinese restaurants. Memo to the handsome one: you still owe me deviled eggs!!

The main course, waiting for the application of heat

* Main course of two roast chickens off the Weber, a fava bean/pancetta risotto, and roasted asparagus off the 'que.
* A quick cheese course of something I was recently introduced to by a friend, which consists of the sensually decadent flavors of truffle honey (mind-blowing stuff!) smeared on a small piece of artisan bread, and topped with St. Agur blue cheese from France by way of Pastaworks on Hawthorne. The cheese is one of the best blues I've ever had, and the earthy/sweet truffle honey and the moldy, soft blue cheese together are like eating sex...crazy!!
The wines we had for the above were various rosés and whites, of which the 2004 J. Christopher "Croft Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc was once again just insanely intense and confirms my opinion that Jay Somers is making the best sauv blancs in America, and some of the best anywhere...no shit!! Also had a bottle of '95 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva and a 1997 Panaretta Chianti Classico (did I mention my friends hollow legs....very odd we all share that trait!!).
Some of last night's libations: Giving their all so that I might sleep better

* Dessert of fresh strawberries to dip in various bowls of flavor enhancers provided by my über-talented sister, served with glasses of refreshingly low alcohol, slightly sweet, and ticklingly bubbly moscato d'asti, one of my favorite things in the wine world.
All in all most satisfying. The wine and conversation flowed all night, hugs and kisses were exchanged at the end, I even managed to clean everything up and wash all the dishes before tumbling into a very contented slumber. Sweet dreams indeed!!

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And now today...off to Suzanne and David's wedding in Astoria, where there is promised great food, beverage, and a cart of illegal fireworks. Ah, once again the scary and exciting confluence of alcohol and gunpowder. Hopefully will be back with all my fingers to let you know how it turns out tomorrow!!!

7/2/2006
Now that I'm finally not quite as bitter and resentful over the fact I'm not still on vacation, it seems time to get back to reporting, 'cause my appetite certainly hasn't gone on holiday.

This may be one of the best Sunday mornings I could hope for. A little coffee and the Sunday NYT while lazing about the pad, thinking about tomorrow's dinner party. Then, after much procrastinating, a 4 mile run about 11am...where did all that heat come from?...which of course only led to today's dilemma. What the hell am I going to have for lunch? Long past any appetite quenching effects from that cup of yogurt that was my "breakfast", the blood sugar is plummeting. Luckily, in my 'hood, my Sunday standby has incorporated some awesome breakfast treats. por que no, which has been rocking my taco loving world for some time (check out their carnitas tacos....off the hook!), has in the last few weeks bumped up the breakfast offerings on Saturday/Sunday.
Fresh out of the shower, I head down the street, check out the specials board in this tiny joint, and know I have to have the chiliquillas, which can be roughly translated as crazy good Mexican hash. Now there are a ton of mediocre versions of this dish out there, but Bryan and the guys at pqn have it down cold! Tortilla chips with chopped tomato, onion, chili spice, cilantro, sour cream, a couple of perfectly cooked over easy eggs, probably one or two more things tossed into the deliciousness just for good measure. This is the deal!! So stupidly satisfying. Sitting outside at a shady cafe table, reading the NYT magazine, wolfing down this amazing plate of food. Do I even need to say "life is so fucking good?" And the day is just beginning!!

6//1/2006 4:10pm/ Barcelona
I'm pleased to report that new levels of culinary satisfaction were just achieved, and none too soon with one night left in Barcelona. Your intrepid diarist, out on the front lines of the gustatory battlefields, has once again scored a decisive victory against the cursed wallet-emptying, boring-food adversaries who seemingly lurk round every corner.
How's this for lunch: Three courses, each unbelievably satisfying, plus 1/2 bottle of wine, plus after lunch café solo (espresso), all for a mere $11.00 US....did I mention that whole "I don't want to leave" thing? And all by happy accident! I left wanting to go to Pinotxo in the Boqueria.Not to be a one trick pony, but it simply is the best. Way too crowded at lunch, two deep at every bar stool. Crossed over La Rambla, did a bit of shopping in the Gotic, them back across La Rambla into the El Raval neighborhood. Had a cerveza at a small bar while I pondered my lunch fate, getting fairly ravenous in the meantime. It had been , after all, almost four hours since my late breakfast at Pinotxo. Wandered down a couple more blocks, and saw a sign outside this nondescript place called Flor de Maig (address: C. Bejar 70), just maybe three blocks off La Rambla. Had a set price menu outside that seemed suspiciously cheap, which always worries, but this place was also off the tourist track of Rambla/Gotic, so you know they were chasing locals. The menu offered a first/second/dessert/bebida (drink), and bread for nine euros. The menu...well, what I could make out of it anyway...looked promising. Entered a clean. modern dining room, and got my table for one (shades of Steve Martin in "The Lonely Guy"!). Was looking at the menu, asked for a first course of spinach-ricotta tortellini, and was wondering about my second. There were two guys sitting next to me. One guy gives me the eye, says, "Hey, you like fish?" Me: "Um, yeah". He says "Have the bacalao." Who was I to argue? Salt cod it is.
Ordered a glass of vino blanco. My waitress, who was incredibly nice with the best smile, brought an empty glass and a full bottle of white. Thought "Now that's my kind of glass of wine!" Coming out of my fantasy, figuring that the first glass was included, and then they'd charge for more, I poured away. As I found out, there was happily no upcharge for the second or third glasses, and now I'm wondering what would've happened if I had drank the whole bottle, besides me getting an early groove on followed by a later nap. Well, the first course of tortellini in a light cream sauce was really nice, and generously sized. Then came the bacalao. Here's a picture:
This was a seriously good plate of food...that's a lightly sweetened citrus purée around it, that was the perfect counterpoint to the ever so slightly salty fish. One of the best things I've had on the trip. It was one of those perfectly balanced dishes, and again a very nice sized portion of fish. I was loving very bite! Finished that, feeling pretty full at this point, but with dessert to come, took my servers advice and had the profiteroles.....
....oh yeah, nothing wrong there. In a trip filled with great food at stupid prices, this may have topped the list. When in Barca, get your hungry bodies to Flor de Maig!
Now taking a break on my small, sunny balcony, making dinner plans in my head, plans that will certainly begin with a Tanqueray martini at Boada's that will look something like...make that exactly...like this:
To my wonderful sister and brother-in-law, knowing your love of the perfect martini, I toast you with every sip! To everyone else, wherever we are, life is good, no?!

6/1/2006 12:30pm/ Barcelona
It was an all Gaudi, all afternoon in Barca yesterday. Spent the early afternoon in Parc Güell, a Gaudi designed, 30 hectare park that is regarded as the nicest open space in the city. Gaudi is a local hero here in Barcelona. His designs, particularly the phantasmagorical (now that's one of those words you don't get to use too often) La Familia Segrada, his unfinished cathedral, are iconic Barcelona landmarks. Fanciful, disturbing, drug-induced...pick your adjectives, because he had some wildly original things going on in his head. And unlike most of us, if he could dream it, he could build it!
Here's a couple of shots from yesterdays Gaudi fest.....
A piece of the furniture he designed that is now in the Gaudi Museum, which was a home he lived in for 20 years here in Barcelona, in Parc Güell.








Gaudi slept here!














Huge columns and the "G" designed ceiling in part of the parc by the museum.










Part of La Sagrada Famiglia. On one side of the Segrada are these dramatic religious scenes (notice that instead of a detailed head on Christ, it's just a square block), the other side, as in the next photo, this bizarre, dark view of religion. Crazy stuff, but very compelling.




















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After a round of tapas bar hopping last night, woke up late this morning, almost 10:00! People out on La Rambla until all hours of the morning. The first stop today was La Boqueria. I can't get enough of this local food mecca. Had my garbanzos at Pinotxo Bar (and just so you now, I'll be back for one last hit tomorrow morning before I leave...love that dish), and a very small, flat omelet that they serve with a piece of toasted rustic bread that has been rubbed with tomato and drizzled with olive oil. That's one that's coming home with me! Wandered the market for an hour or so...then this afternoon...who knows. I'm guessing more food and drink.........ciao!
Here's a few more shots......
Walking back to the hotel last night, wandered by this knife shop. Somehow, incredibly, this guy who works there had just CUT HIMSELF! Grabbed my camera, took a quick shot which I'm not sure he liked, and admittedly was kind of rude, but it was too good. Then ran out before they demo'd some product on me!





The next three are from my morning at Boqueria......
Beautiful fresh shellfish and seafood everywhere.






Now this is how to sell farm fresh eggs!








My future wife and mother-in-law.................okay, maybe not, but ya gotta respect what she could bring to the table!!

5/31/2006 10:55am...Bacelona
Does it get any better than this?:


Almost 11:00am in Barcelona, and just tucking into this mid-morning snack of churros con suizo, which is essentially these long fried pastries dipped into what has to be the BEST hot chocolate I've ever had. More than hot chocolate, really. More like a daaaark chocolate syrup, slightly thinned, and all too sexy. It's beautiful, warm, sunny....the perfect day to hunt for Gaudi!
Let's see, what has transpired since my bedspread rant?
Arrived in Barcelona yesterday afternoon, checked in to the Hotel Lloret, a wonderfully situated hotel a the top of the Ramblas, the ancient shopping street of Barcelona that even though it is swarming with tourists, still retains that sense of history. My first stop, of course, is the famous La Boqueria food market right off the Ramblas. Imagine any food market you've ever been in. Imagine it on steroids and pulsing with life and vibrating with color. Hundreds of vendors selling everything and anything you could possibly want to cook! Just inside the entrance, I grabbed a quick seat at Bar Pinotxo, not only a very sweet little bar with a mere twelve seats, but considered among the best restaurants/tapas bars in town. Started with a perfectly chilled glass of rosado and a plate of langoustines, large sea shrimp, that as the cook behind the counter showed me were still alive right up to the moment he dropped them on the grill. Fabulous! Then had a small plate of perhaps twelve mussels, topped with an olive oily vinaigrette/mignonette. Again, they were amazing. The perfect light lunch to carry me through the day.
Wandered for hours, through the Ramblas and the Barri Gotic, the old Gothic quarter of Barcelona, walking its narrow, twisting streets. Then went back to the Lloret for a post-travel, pre-cocktail bath. Feeling very refreshed, got dressed to check out the Bar Boada's, right across the street from my hotel. An absolute classic, liike being thrown backk abou 60 years. A tiny, wedge shaped room, the Boada's is thought of as the city's best cocktail bar, and was founded in 1933 by ex-Havana barman Miguel Boada. The mixologists behind the bar still wear the white shirts withblack vests and black bow ties they've been wearing for decades. Can you say mojito? Well, they certainly can, and my mojito was perfection! I just couldn't leave at that, and in this bar it only seemed appropriate to have a martini, so out came the Tanqueray, and the show alone was worth it. Pouring back and forth between two shakers, this was everything I could hope my favorite elixir could be. And unlike the giant, four ounce plus concoctions that we see at home, these are poured into the classic 2-1/2 to 3 ounce glasses that were the traditional cocktail glass back in the day. With that lovely beginning glow, I wandered down the Ramblas in search of Agostina's, in the Gotic.Perhaps it was that olive in the martini that threw me off, but it took me a bit to find this place. But once I did, it was well worth the hunt. I had three plates of tapas, all superb. I didn't have my camera, so no pics, but let me try and describe them. A plate of Jamon Catalunya, a house specialty, which was six two inch slices of ham on top of a piece of potato, the whole drizzled with olive oil and lightly sprinkled with paprika. Then a plate of six grilled sardines, again so fresh and salty good, each about 5 inches long. A little fire , some olive oil, a dash of fresh parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice....what couuld be simpler, or bettter? And then, when I saw this, I knew I had to try it...foie gras on apples, which sounds so simple and tasted SO incredible. Slices of granny smith apples, topped with a generous portion of foie gras, and that drizzled with a balsamic/fig juice reduction....um, really nothing more needs to be said. I can't even think of adjectives to describe this...even my favorite "f-cking awesome" doesn't do this justice. With that, a couple of glasses of rosado, and this body was ready for bed.
Okay, so now it's the next morning, have already been to the Boqueria, had a breakfast of stewed garbanzos with pine nuts, raisins, and blood sausage crumbled in it. Here's a picture...pardon the camera strap...amatuer hour with the camera!

My new favorite morning treat! Washed down with a café con leche, then wandered the market. I could spend hours here. I have a few pictures below. Then back to the hotel to grab the computer, to La Pallaresa for the churros, and now you are right there with me. More later!



Beautiful pieces of tuna above!

What are you having for dinner tonight?! I told you that you could get anything here......ha!!
With all due apologies to the Rolling Stones, Goat's Head Soup anyone??

5/31/2006 9:40am/ Malaga Airport
At the Malaga airport, waiting for my escape to Barcelona. Being here is kind of like sitting in a smoke filled bar. Sure, they have designated smoking areas, but they comprise a counter set in the middle of the main aisle by the gates. As long as you're not blowing smoke directly in my face, I guess it's all good. Very curious, and so very Euro. Now on the other hand their taxis here put the hoopties most American cabbies drive to shame. They are invariable almost new and spotlessly clean. Unlike their American brethren, where it usually gives you pause to even sit on the seat. The cleanliness factor of most U.S. cabs is just a marginal step above hotel bedspreads. Is there anything more hygienically disturbing than hotel bedspreads? I know they're changing my sheets, but when is the last time that bedspread saw the cleaners? And if you think there isn't a lot of "personal" activities taking place on top of that bedspread, you're kidding yourself. My activities I'm good with. That couple from Des Moines, who now that they're not at home decide they are going to "experiment" on top of the bed I'm expected to sleep in? I don't think so.
Hope the plane comes soon...apparently I have WAY too much time to think!

See you in Barcelona for some paella!

5/30/2006 3:30 pm....Granada
Wow..what a 24 hours it's been! Granada just continues to hit the spot. With another day spent in the glorious sunshine, its relaxed pace is perfectly suited to what I want right now. To keep the chronological thing going, here's a quick rundown......
Last Night: In honor of tomorrow morning's visit to the Alhambra (pronounced "all-ambra"), had dinner last night at what is reputedly the best Moroccan restaurant in Granada, Arrayanes. I have to agree. Not only is the room itself wonderfully, but tastefully ornate, the proprietor is a fantastic host, who supposedly speaks seven different languages. Based on his ability to greet the English, Spanish, German, and French people who came through in their native tongue, I'm guessing that is no exaggeration.

He handed me the menu, gave me a minute, asked what I wanted. Knowing that Moroccan food is not something I am well versed in, I turned the tables and asked him to feed me. Just bring me anything he likes. His first question was, "Do you like soup?" to which I naturally replied, "I like everything!" So a deliciously savory chickpea soup found it's way to my table, accompanied by perhaps the best lemonade I have tasted. Oh, just so you know, there is no alcohol served at Arrayanes, much to my liver's relief! This first course was followed by a wickedly good lamb tagine (in the picture above), so rich in spice and character, and something he was rightly proud of. Ended it all with a perfectly rich vanilla custard with a sprinkling of cinnamon on top. All so good! Now to bed, the ghosts of the past are beckoning mañana!!

A brief interjection...I'm typing this at small "cerveceria" next to the internet café I've found here. Ordered a beer, and just had set on my table, in the free tapas tradition that I'm going to be very resentful about when I have to give it up (attention bar owners in Portland: my bar has been raised!), a delicious, lightly battered and fried whole sardine with a pile of what I think is crumbled friend corn meal..fresh, salty, and SO good!

This Morning: Up at 8:30 (remember this IS vacation), and get ready for my assault on the Alhambra. Have been told so much from friends who have been here, expectations are high.
After the fact: expectations not only met, but exceeded! Spent about three hours at this medieval fortress on the hill, took umpteen pics, and was just awed! So atmospheric, and though crowded with lots of big group tours, it was not this crush that I was fearing. Get ahead of them at spots, or let them pass by and you can find yourself with a bit of room to contemplate the history that is so apparent with every step, practically every breath you take here. If you have one stop to make in Andalucia, this has to be it. Incredible!




Just a small sampling of the beautiful tilework throughout.








The Patio de los Leones in the Palacios Nazaries. The fountain is surrouunded by twelve lions, and water flows out on four sides, which represent the four rivers of paradise. This small patio was one of my favorite places, although in a place like this it's almost unfair to pick one...or two...or.......




This Afternoon: came down from my Moorish high, just in time to wander into Los Diamantes, and partake of Pepe and his crowd one more time before I leave early tomorrow a.m. for Barcelona. Diamantes was still cooking, still energized, and is one spot I won't soon forget!
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Here's a couple more images from my wanderings...
Another free tapas, this time at Casa Fernando, my second favorite place here!







Schoolgirls having a lunch break with their classmates in a small square near the hotel. Very cute...the one on the right kept trying to get her friend to share with her......







Three deep at the bar today at Los Diamontes. I'll miss ya, Pepe!

Hasta luego!!