7/2/2006
Now that I'm finally not quite as bitter and resentful over the fact I'm not still on vacation, it seems time to get back to reporting, 'cause my appetite certainly hasn't gone on holiday.

This may be one of the best Sunday mornings I could hope for. A little coffee and the Sunday NYT while lazing about the pad, thinking about tomorrow's dinner party. Then, after much procrastinating, a 4 mile run about 11am...where did all that heat come from?...which of course only led to today's dilemma. What the hell am I going to have for lunch? Long past any appetite quenching effects from that cup of yogurt that was my "breakfast", the blood sugar is plummeting. Luckily, in my 'hood, my Sunday standby has incorporated some awesome breakfast treats. por que no, which has been rocking my taco loving world for some time (check out their carnitas tacos....off the hook!), has in the last few weeks bumped up the breakfast offerings on Saturday/Sunday.
Fresh out of the shower, I head down the street, check out the specials board in this tiny joint, and know I have to have the chiliquillas, which can be roughly translated as crazy good Mexican hash. Now there are a ton of mediocre versions of this dish out there, but Bryan and the guys at pqn have it down cold! Tortilla chips with chopped tomato, onion, chili spice, cilantro, sour cream, a couple of perfectly cooked over easy eggs, probably one or two more things tossed into the deliciousness just for good measure. This is the deal!! So stupidly satisfying. Sitting outside at a shady cafe table, reading the NYT magazine, wolfing down this amazing plate of food. Do I even need to say "life is so fucking good?" And the day is just beginning!!

6//1/2006 4:10pm/ Barcelona
I'm pleased to report that new levels of culinary satisfaction were just achieved, and none too soon with one night left in Barcelona. Your intrepid diarist, out on the front lines of the gustatory battlefields, has once again scored a decisive victory against the cursed wallet-emptying, boring-food adversaries who seemingly lurk round every corner.
How's this for lunch: Three courses, each unbelievably satisfying, plus 1/2 bottle of wine, plus after lunch café solo (espresso), all for a mere $11.00 US....did I mention that whole "I don't want to leave" thing? And all by happy accident! I left wanting to go to Pinotxo in the Boqueria.Not to be a one trick pony, but it simply is the best. Way too crowded at lunch, two deep at every bar stool. Crossed over La Rambla, did a bit of shopping in the Gotic, them back across La Rambla into the El Raval neighborhood. Had a cerveza at a small bar while I pondered my lunch fate, getting fairly ravenous in the meantime. It had been , after all, almost four hours since my late breakfast at Pinotxo. Wandered down a couple more blocks, and saw a sign outside this nondescript place called Flor de Maig (address: C. Bejar 70), just maybe three blocks off La Rambla. Had a set price menu outside that seemed suspiciously cheap, which always worries, but this place was also off the tourist track of Rambla/Gotic, so you know they were chasing locals. The menu offered a first/second/dessert/bebida (drink), and bread for nine euros. The menu...well, what I could make out of it anyway...looked promising. Entered a clean. modern dining room, and got my table for one (shades of Steve Martin in "The Lonely Guy"!). Was looking at the menu, asked for a first course of spinach-ricotta tortellini, and was wondering about my second. There were two guys sitting next to me. One guy gives me the eye, says, "Hey, you like fish?" Me: "Um, yeah". He says "Have the bacalao." Who was I to argue? Salt cod it is.
Ordered a glass of vino blanco. My waitress, who was incredibly nice with the best smile, brought an empty glass and a full bottle of white. Thought "Now that's my kind of glass of wine!" Coming out of my fantasy, figuring that the first glass was included, and then they'd charge for more, I poured away. As I found out, there was happily no upcharge for the second or third glasses, and now I'm wondering what would've happened if I had drank the whole bottle, besides me getting an early groove on followed by a later nap. Well, the first course of tortellini in a light cream sauce was really nice, and generously sized. Then came the bacalao. Here's a picture:
This was a seriously good plate of food...that's a lightly sweetened citrus purée around it, that was the perfect counterpoint to the ever so slightly salty fish. One of the best things I've had on the trip. It was one of those perfectly balanced dishes, and again a very nice sized portion of fish. I was loving very bite! Finished that, feeling pretty full at this point, but with dessert to come, took my servers advice and had the profiteroles.....
....oh yeah, nothing wrong there. In a trip filled with great food at stupid prices, this may have topped the list. When in Barca, get your hungry bodies to Flor de Maig!
Now taking a break on my small, sunny balcony, making dinner plans in my head, plans that will certainly begin with a Tanqueray martini at Boada's that will look something like...make that exactly...like this:
To my wonderful sister and brother-in-law, knowing your love of the perfect martini, I toast you with every sip! To everyone else, wherever we are, life is good, no?!

6/1/2006 12:30pm/ Barcelona
It was an all Gaudi, all afternoon in Barca yesterday. Spent the early afternoon in Parc Güell, a Gaudi designed, 30 hectare park that is regarded as the nicest open space in the city. Gaudi is a local hero here in Barcelona. His designs, particularly the phantasmagorical (now that's one of those words you don't get to use too often) La Familia Segrada, his unfinished cathedral, are iconic Barcelona landmarks. Fanciful, disturbing, drug-induced...pick your adjectives, because he had some wildly original things going on in his head. And unlike most of us, if he could dream it, he could build it!
Here's a couple of shots from yesterdays Gaudi fest.....
A piece of the furniture he designed that is now in the Gaudi Museum, which was a home he lived in for 20 years here in Barcelona, in Parc Güell.








Gaudi slept here!














Huge columns and the "G" designed ceiling in part of the parc by the museum.










Part of La Sagrada Famiglia. On one side of the Segrada are these dramatic religious scenes (notice that instead of a detailed head on Christ, it's just a square block), the other side, as in the next photo, this bizarre, dark view of religion. Crazy stuff, but very compelling.




















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After a round of tapas bar hopping last night, woke up late this morning, almost 10:00! People out on La Rambla until all hours of the morning. The first stop today was La Boqueria. I can't get enough of this local food mecca. Had my garbanzos at Pinotxo Bar (and just so you now, I'll be back for one last hit tomorrow morning before I leave...love that dish), and a very small, flat omelet that they serve with a piece of toasted rustic bread that has been rubbed with tomato and drizzled with olive oil. That's one that's coming home with me! Wandered the market for an hour or so...then this afternoon...who knows. I'm guessing more food and drink.........ciao!
Here's a few more shots......
Walking back to the hotel last night, wandered by this knife shop. Somehow, incredibly, this guy who works there had just CUT HIMSELF! Grabbed my camera, took a quick shot which I'm not sure he liked, and admittedly was kind of rude, but it was too good. Then ran out before they demo'd some product on me!





The next three are from my morning at Boqueria......
Beautiful fresh shellfish and seafood everywhere.






Now this is how to sell farm fresh eggs!








My future wife and mother-in-law.................okay, maybe not, but ya gotta respect what she could bring to the table!!

5/31/2006 10:55am...Bacelona
Does it get any better than this?:


Almost 11:00am in Barcelona, and just tucking into this mid-morning snack of churros con suizo, which is essentially these long fried pastries dipped into what has to be the BEST hot chocolate I've ever had. More than hot chocolate, really. More like a daaaark chocolate syrup, slightly thinned, and all too sexy. It's beautiful, warm, sunny....the perfect day to hunt for Gaudi!
Let's see, what has transpired since my bedspread rant?
Arrived in Barcelona yesterday afternoon, checked in to the Hotel Lloret, a wonderfully situated hotel a the top of the Ramblas, the ancient shopping street of Barcelona that even though it is swarming with tourists, still retains that sense of history. My first stop, of course, is the famous La Boqueria food market right off the Ramblas. Imagine any food market you've ever been in. Imagine it on steroids and pulsing with life and vibrating with color. Hundreds of vendors selling everything and anything you could possibly want to cook! Just inside the entrance, I grabbed a quick seat at Bar Pinotxo, not only a very sweet little bar with a mere twelve seats, but considered among the best restaurants/tapas bars in town. Started with a perfectly chilled glass of rosado and a plate of langoustines, large sea shrimp, that as the cook behind the counter showed me were still alive right up to the moment he dropped them on the grill. Fabulous! Then had a small plate of perhaps twelve mussels, topped with an olive oily vinaigrette/mignonette. Again, they were amazing. The perfect light lunch to carry me through the day.
Wandered for hours, through the Ramblas and the Barri Gotic, the old Gothic quarter of Barcelona, walking its narrow, twisting streets. Then went back to the Lloret for a post-travel, pre-cocktail bath. Feeling very refreshed, got dressed to check out the Bar Boada's, right across the street from my hotel. An absolute classic, liike being thrown backk abou 60 years. A tiny, wedge shaped room, the Boada's is thought of as the city's best cocktail bar, and was founded in 1933 by ex-Havana barman Miguel Boada. The mixologists behind the bar still wear the white shirts withblack vests and black bow ties they've been wearing for decades. Can you say mojito? Well, they certainly can, and my mojito was perfection! I just couldn't leave at that, and in this bar it only seemed appropriate to have a martini, so out came the Tanqueray, and the show alone was worth it. Pouring back and forth between two shakers, this was everything I could hope my favorite elixir could be. And unlike the giant, four ounce plus concoctions that we see at home, these are poured into the classic 2-1/2 to 3 ounce glasses that were the traditional cocktail glass back in the day. With that lovely beginning glow, I wandered down the Ramblas in search of Agostina's, in the Gotic.Perhaps it was that olive in the martini that threw me off, but it took me a bit to find this place. But once I did, it was well worth the hunt. I had three plates of tapas, all superb. I didn't have my camera, so no pics, but let me try and describe them. A plate of Jamon Catalunya, a house specialty, which was six two inch slices of ham on top of a piece of potato, the whole drizzled with olive oil and lightly sprinkled with paprika. Then a plate of six grilled sardines, again so fresh and salty good, each about 5 inches long. A little fire , some olive oil, a dash of fresh parsley, and a few drops of lemon juice....what couuld be simpler, or bettter? And then, when I saw this, I knew I had to try it...foie gras on apples, which sounds so simple and tasted SO incredible. Slices of granny smith apples, topped with a generous portion of foie gras, and that drizzled with a balsamic/fig juice reduction....um, really nothing more needs to be said. I can't even think of adjectives to describe this...even my favorite "f-cking awesome" doesn't do this justice. With that, a couple of glasses of rosado, and this body was ready for bed.
Okay, so now it's the next morning, have already been to the Boqueria, had a breakfast of stewed garbanzos with pine nuts, raisins, and blood sausage crumbled in it. Here's a picture...pardon the camera strap...amatuer hour with the camera!

My new favorite morning treat! Washed down with a café con leche, then wandered the market. I could spend hours here. I have a few pictures below. Then back to the hotel to grab the computer, to La Pallaresa for the churros, and now you are right there with me. More later!



Beautiful pieces of tuna above!

What are you having for dinner tonight?! I told you that you could get anything here......ha!!
With all due apologies to the Rolling Stones, Goat's Head Soup anyone??

5/31/2006 9:40am/ Malaga Airport
At the Malaga airport, waiting for my escape to Barcelona. Being here is kind of like sitting in a smoke filled bar. Sure, they have designated smoking areas, but they comprise a counter set in the middle of the main aisle by the gates. As long as you're not blowing smoke directly in my face, I guess it's all good. Very curious, and so very Euro. Now on the other hand their taxis here put the hoopties most American cabbies drive to shame. They are invariable almost new and spotlessly clean. Unlike their American brethren, where it usually gives you pause to even sit on the seat. The cleanliness factor of most U.S. cabs is just a marginal step above hotel bedspreads. Is there anything more hygienically disturbing than hotel bedspreads? I know they're changing my sheets, but when is the last time that bedspread saw the cleaners? And if you think there isn't a lot of "personal" activities taking place on top of that bedspread, you're kidding yourself. My activities I'm good with. That couple from Des Moines, who now that they're not at home decide they are going to "experiment" on top of the bed I'm expected to sleep in? I don't think so.
Hope the plane comes soon...apparently I have WAY too much time to think!

See you in Barcelona for some paella!

5/30/2006 3:30 pm....Granada
Wow..what a 24 hours it's been! Granada just continues to hit the spot. With another day spent in the glorious sunshine, its relaxed pace is perfectly suited to what I want right now. To keep the chronological thing going, here's a quick rundown......
Last Night: In honor of tomorrow morning's visit to the Alhambra (pronounced "all-ambra"), had dinner last night at what is reputedly the best Moroccan restaurant in Granada, Arrayanes. I have to agree. Not only is the room itself wonderfully, but tastefully ornate, the proprietor is a fantastic host, who supposedly speaks seven different languages. Based on his ability to greet the English, Spanish, German, and French people who came through in their native tongue, I'm guessing that is no exaggeration.

He handed me the menu, gave me a minute, asked what I wanted. Knowing that Moroccan food is not something I am well versed in, I turned the tables and asked him to feed me. Just bring me anything he likes. His first question was, "Do you like soup?" to which I naturally replied, "I like everything!" So a deliciously savory chickpea soup found it's way to my table, accompanied by perhaps the best lemonade I have tasted. Oh, just so you know, there is no alcohol served at Arrayanes, much to my liver's relief! This first course was followed by a wickedly good lamb tagine (in the picture above), so rich in spice and character, and something he was rightly proud of. Ended it all with a perfectly rich vanilla custard with a sprinkling of cinnamon on top. All so good! Now to bed, the ghosts of the past are beckoning mañana!!

A brief interjection...I'm typing this at small "cerveceria" next to the internet café I've found here. Ordered a beer, and just had set on my table, in the free tapas tradition that I'm going to be very resentful about when I have to give it up (attention bar owners in Portland: my bar has been raised!), a delicious, lightly battered and fried whole sardine with a pile of what I think is crumbled friend corn meal..fresh, salty, and SO good!

This Morning: Up at 8:30 (remember this IS vacation), and get ready for my assault on the Alhambra. Have been told so much from friends who have been here, expectations are high.
After the fact: expectations not only met, but exceeded! Spent about three hours at this medieval fortress on the hill, took umpteen pics, and was just awed! So atmospheric, and though crowded with lots of big group tours, it was not this crush that I was fearing. Get ahead of them at spots, or let them pass by and you can find yourself with a bit of room to contemplate the history that is so apparent with every step, practically every breath you take here. If you have one stop to make in Andalucia, this has to be it. Incredible!




Just a small sampling of the beautiful tilework throughout.








The Patio de los Leones in the Palacios Nazaries. The fountain is surrouunded by twelve lions, and water flows out on four sides, which represent the four rivers of paradise. This small patio was one of my favorite places, although in a place like this it's almost unfair to pick one...or two...or.......




This Afternoon: came down from my Moorish high, just in time to wander into Los Diamantes, and partake of Pepe and his crowd one more time before I leave early tomorrow a.m. for Barcelona. Diamantes was still cooking, still energized, and is one spot I won't soon forget!
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Here's a couple more images from my wanderings...
Another free tapas, this time at Casa Fernando, my second favorite place here!







Schoolgirls having a lunch break with their classmates in a small square near the hotel. Very cute...the one on the right kept trying to get her friend to share with her......







Three deep at the bar today at Los Diamontes. I'll miss ya, Pepe!

Hasta luego!!

5/29/2006 4:42pm....Grenada
After a WAY too early train ride this morning (read up at 5 to be at the train station at 6...what happened to my vacation?!) to catch an early ride to Granada, and I got here not a moment too soon. So far, 6-1/2 hours in, and I am LOVING this place. Of course it could be the four beers I had about 30 minutes ago at my new favorite bar in Europe. And by the way, about that whole "new favorite restaurant" thing in Paris, let's make it the same thing...my new favorite Euro restaurant, because in hindsight, and with many meals here under and overflowing my belt, Castagna & 3 Doors Down still rock. It was the moment, you know? Anyway, Grenada is totally cool, much smaller feeling than Seville, with at least all the charm, and I haven't made it to the Alhambra yet. Tomorrow morning I'm in. What I've found in much strolling so far is it seems every corner I turn, there's a new small tree shaded square with a charming, beautiful fountain in the middle, something Sevilla sorely lacks. Not too say that Sevilla needs any help!
Here's a couple of said fountains.....
Oh, before I forget, I did go back to Bar Europa in Sevilla last night for another awesome tapas experience. Trust me on this...if you're here...or there at this point, it's the best!
But yeah, Granada seems a little more low key, more relaxed in spite of the tourist crush. Word is the Alhambra is the most visited monument in all of Europe. Assuming you can avoid the sheep in their pastel and/or plaid vacation clothes, following behind some bored/annoyed looking tour guide...and how horrific would that job be. Leading a bunch of lemmings, 45% of whom are complaining, 45% are asking annoying questions, while the 10% who are reasonable know not to say anything. Anyway, they aren't at all hard to ignore, and get off the main streets and you are right where you want to be. Which leads me to Bar Los Diamontes. Another TimeOut recommendation, and just four blocks from my very nicely located hotel (Hotel Juan Miguel...http://www.hoteljuanmiguel.com/). This place opens at 2:30 and closes at 4:00. It's also open later in the evening. So I'm wandering around, get there about 2:45 and this joint is packed! And this is a really small, really tight space. Somehow find a tiny corner of bar space, order a beer, and the next thing you now a small plate of tapas is set before you. Another awesome Granada custom: apparently it's one of the last places in Spain where it is the norm to give a free plate of tapas with every drink. How cool is that?! So this place is rocking, the barman Pepe and his cohort dishing it, and Pepe has this place nailed. Mostly locals, a few tourists who get it. Pepe gives a gesture here, a booming shout out to the kitchen, a wink and nod to let you now he's got you covered. And he's only like 5'8", maybe 30-35.This is SO my kind of place. Full plates flying across the bar to the few tables, piles of empties coming back. Incredible energy and a killer vibe...wow!! I'll be back for tomorrow afternoon's show, even if it means cutting my Alhambra time short!
That's Pepe in the foreground. People are packed in to the right and behind me!
So far Granada has me going...and the evening hasn't even started!
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Oh my god, there's no escaping the scourge of annoying wine geeks. I was just in this really cool local wine shop that was filled with great Spanish wine on the way to an internet café here, and overheard this conversation....
Woman (in a nasally, east coast voice): "Have any of these wines been rated by Robert Parker in the Wine Advocate?"
Husband of annoying woman (dressed in always chic Tommy Bahama, just so he doesn't stand out): "So do you read Parker here? We really like him."
Wine shop guy (probably while wondering why he ever got into this business): "No, we don't really pay attention to that."
Wife: "Well, he really seems to know Spanish wine."
And with that I had to leave. Oh, the horror!!

5/28/2006 2:30pm...Seville
Was that the best $19 ...including tip and wine...I've ever spent on food at Bar Europa last night? It's gotta be close. This is a tiny, out of the way tapas joint that not only serves original, creative tapas, but also, and unlike most places that slap whatever it on the plate and are done with it, at B.E. the food is nicely presented and creatively plated. This wouldn't really matter if the food wasn't anything special, but this is the best food that I've had here, and I'd like to think I've taken a relatively large sampling of tapas skills around town, and the Europa chefs have huge game. I started with a nice piece of lightly fried fish and a roasted piquillo pepper that was a perfect starter, and with my ice cold glass of rosato was so good. Then on to a roquefort crepe that was rich, intense, but not too heavy even with the bechamel on top (or maybe I'm just becoming numb to these things!). Not knowing where to go from there, but knowing I had to make at least one more stop on their menu, I managed, I thought, with many hand gestures and indecipherable combination of Spanish and English, to ask the patron what he would have off of his tapas list. He kind of looked at me, looked at the list, then walked off. Assuming that some sort of communication had taken place, I ordered another glass of rosé from the barman and hoped for the best. I knew I was halfway there when he brought a new knife and fork. And then he brought the plate, set it down, muttered "Bacalao" and walked off. Holy mother of salt cod was this good! Resting in a pool of the freshest olive oil, with a puree of what I'm guessing was apricot with capers and pearl onions scattered about, this was heaven! Mixing a bite of everything together, the flavors melded and exploded on my palate. This was serious, world class flavor combining, absolutely top notch. And yet this one plate cost just a smidge over four bucks! Awesome stuff, and I'm going back today to try a couple of other items that I couldn't get after last night. The pictures are in the order consumed.
* Fish w/Piquillo Pepper








* Roquefort Crepe








* Bacalao








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Up this morning, had a terrific, refreshing two hour morning walk to check out Santiago Calatrava's famous bridge here, the Puente del Alamillo. I love Calatrava's design/architectural work (http://www.calatrava.com/), and this was an early work of his for the 1992 World's Fair, an event that actually bankrupted the city. But hey, check out that infrastructure! Calatrava's work to me is so light and lyrical. If Spain isn't in your upcoming travel plans, you can actually see a footbridge he designed for the city of Redding, California of all places. Somehow they raised money to hire him to do it. I've walked it, and it's beautiful. Kind of a mini-version of the Alamillo. Memo to those who are planning the new Sellwood Bridge...aim higher!









So I walk along the river, where guys are lined up along the riverbank fishing for these small, 6" or 7" fish with these 30' long poles...talk about overkill! It must be the thing to do though, because these guys had their rigs, chairs, and buckets of bait balls they'd throw in the water to attract the fish. It was pretty interesting. Anyway, I got to the bridge, walked across taking a couple of pictures along the way. And then then when I got to the other side...are you ready for this...I WALKED BACK!! Um, maybe you had to be there.......




A couple more random images.....
A really cute tapas place a few blocks from my hotel, run by two super nice women, where I had my morning cafe con leche and tostada de queso y mie...basically melted cheese on toast w/ honey, on the way back from my walk......delicious!





Me at same cafe.....loving life!








Ah, Seville...cultural and historical center of Spain, where old hair bands go to die!








I know what you're thinking, but just because I went in Starbucks yesterday doesn't mean I've hit rock bottom! Now maybe if it was Taco Bell...............




Back with more scintillating news later!

5/27/2006 6:15...Seville
Man, is this a great city or what? Not only was I able to go back out for more tapas and cervezas, and the craziest tuna sandwich ever, but America is never very far away. This next part is somewhat, okay, REALLY embarrassing, but dammit, it's 90 degrees out, I've been walking around for the last three or four hours. So I'm hot, my feet are saying get your ass in a chair, and there it was, just ahead, with a sign in the window that seemed like a beacon of relief....Mocha-Banana Frappuccino...that's right...start in, it's totally deserved...I went to freaking Starbucks in Seville. How do you like that Cy? And ya know what? At that moment it tasted really fucking good! Okay, glad I got that off my chest.
Anyway, another fabulous afternoon. Seville is awesome. The people are beautiful. Now back in air conditioned comfort at the Corrergidor. Have my dinner tapas spot all picked out. Here's a few pics with commentary.
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Found the local market...these guys are wondering where it all went wrong.







Granted my Spanish is next to nonexistent, but I think this butcher shop is offering a new take on the whole "Body of Christ" thing.






Summer fashion week in Seville. This is more pret a porter rather than haute couture. Green is HOT this season. Let me know if you want anything picked up!!






These guys were out last night. Really great and the guys were having fun. Hey Randall, it looks like they could use a rocking stand up bass player!







The patio at the hotel. The perfect spot to take a vacation from my vacation with a book...or Vanity Fair...they both work!










Now that's a tuna sandwich!! The guys at Patio San Eloy do it right. Looks crazy, but tasted great, especially at $2 a slice. As soon as they brought it out, it disappeared. Apparently a house specialty. This is a great tapas spot to put on your list.





Mmmmmm.....beer!! Hangin' at Bar Santa Cruz with beer number....ah, never mind. The thing is, on a hot day, these little 10 ounce beers at a Euro a pop are the deal!

5/27/2006 12:15...Sevilla
Slept fabulously here in wonderful Seville last night. Love my hotel...Hotel Corregidor. Beautiful patio, comfortable, very quiet at night. Slept like a baby last night. Will post a couple pictures tomorrow. Really a nice deal in a perfect location. Also wifi access!
Was up and out about 9 this morning. Went to the cathedral. Incredible. Supposed to be the biggest church in the world. Bigger in volume than St. Peter's in Rome. Staggering. Here's a couple of looks. The tower is called the Giralda...a landmarkof Sevilla's skyline.
Got lost on my way back to the hotel. Maybe one in six or seven streets is marked. I think it is one of the rites of passage here!
I know many of you have been here. How great are tapas bars? When I arrived last night, was hungry. Quickly found my rhythm. Duck into one...have a quick bite. Maybe a little jamon & cerveza, then on to the next. The chorizo looks good there, and the cerveza is cold on a warm evening. The squares are filled with people walking arm in arm, kids playing. Stop at Bar Rioja for some olives, another cerveza, a little manchego. The best part is I find I am spending almost no money, they are so cheap and so satisfying. And the warm sun feels rejuvenating after cloudy Paris. Will be about 85 today...perfect. Will have more pics of the scene and more food stuff later.
Off too see Calatrava's famous bridge here, hopefully this afternoon. Speaking of afternoon...time for tapas and cerveza...adios!

5/26/2006 1:15pm/Barcelona
Don't read this email as me having commitment issues. Nothing could be further from the truth. I just prefer to call it flexibility, or keeping an open mind. I say this because as of last night (Thursday) I have a NEW favorite restaurant in Paris. The scary part is it almost didn't happen. After my wonderfully satisfying lunch at Lozere, I wandered a bit more, sent some email, then went back to my hotel for a little rest about five. I read a bit, and then the next thing I know it's 8:30...turns out the lunch needed to be slept off. So I'm laying on the bed, really don't want to get up and get dressed to go out, and was almost ready to go to this little brasserie just down the street. But then I thought, "Sure, I could do that. Take the easy way out, even though there's this little place I really want to check out before I leave. And if not for me, then I have to do it for everyone who is counting on my reportorial integrity, to go out and GET THAT STORY!" So for you, I did. And it was perhaps the best decision on this trip.
I had read about Juan et Juanita in the TimeOut guide, and it sounded so good. Plus it was a mere three Metro stops from my hotel at 82 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud in the 11th. After this experience, all I can say is if you're in Paris you have to go!! The space was small, very artsy in a cool, modern way. It's as if your very talented friend who's an artist/designer made a very comfortable restaurant space, a little edgy, with great music playing, where everyone feels good being there. And oh yeah, she made sure the food was out of this world. It was actually the perfect counterpoint to Lozere, with that restaurants regional simplicity and hominess contrasted against J et J's hipness.
So I walk in, and notice immediately it's full. Not too be deterred, I ask if they can seat "un personne s'il vous plais?" The woman who owns it, Carine, couldn't have been nicer. After a glance around and a furrowed brow, she approached two customers. They were a 50-something couple sitting on one of two couches facing each other, with a wide rectangular coffee table between the two seats. Carine asked if they would mind if I sat across from them on the other couch, and of course they didn't as they were just finishing. This is the kind of place where everything is the norm. So comfortably seated, I began my journey to culinary nirvana. Springtime in Paris calls for rosé, so I ordered a glass of their house rosé, which was delicious, snapping fresh with bright, full, strawberry flavors. With much anticipation, I ordered my entreé and plat off the menu. On the entrée list I noticed a potato dish with lardons. Not having any idea what I would be getting, but loving all things potato-ey and worshipping at the altar of cured pork products, I had to try it. About 15-20 minutes later, what should appear before me but the best potato dish maybe I have ever had...in my life!
Wonderful scalloped potatoes, hot with melting cheese and bacony goodness. Beautifully, playfully plated...as was every dish as you can see, and it was crazily good, with this nice little arugula salad on the side. As I savored every bite, Carine came by to ask how it was (she speaks quite good English, by the way), and I had to tell her that I want to eat this every day...of my life! Sopping up every last bit with my bread, I reluctantly let the plate go. Of course, after something that good, I could only imagine how my rabbit in mustard sauce was going to be, and wondering what their take on this French classic would taste like.
Um, it tasted good. REALLY good! The meat was tender and moist, the sauce perfectly savory and complimenting rather than overpowering the lapin, with a little cylinder of mashed potato perfection.
At this point I'm just dying, with a stupid food and rosé induced grin on my face. And how could I not trust them to have a dessert to equal the build up? Besides it's my last night in Paris for a week. If ever there was a time to (over)indulge this was it. And of course the Fondant au Chocolat absolutely killed!
The picture doesn't really do it justice. Moist cake, with a warm, liquid, thick dark chocolate sauce that oozed out with every bite. It's tough to eat this kind of food alone, let me tell you. It was just begging for two people to feed it to each other, sharing bites and kisses and secrets. It was SO sexy, so sensual, so....so....do I really have to explain it? Like the girl on the magazine says..."GO-GO"!!
Knowing that I'll be back in Paris the last night of my vacation a week from Saturday and I am meeting my friends Mike and Kate from Vancouver, B.C., who will be here on their first night of vacation, I immediately made reservations for us. I can't wait!
Typing this on a layover in Barcelona. Next stop...Seville!!