Eating PDX: Farewell to FIN

Today's lesson in "Enjoy it while it's here because you never know when it'll be gone" is brought to you by FIN, the sadly soon to be closing restaurant at 1852 SE Hawthorne Blvd. When I first visited FIN about 3 or 4 months ago with friends we were all blown away at chef Trent Pierce's grasp, actually more if a gift, of how to handle fish. The experience was repeated last night when w and visited. The piscatorial presentation and creativity Pierce brings to almost every plate coming out of the kitchen is unmatched in Portland. It is cooking on a level as good as anything you'll have anywhere in town. Especially impressive when you consider that in this city of unequaled access to fresh fish and seafood, it is shocking how mediocre and played out most dishes are that you'll be served. Pierce's style isn't flashy or excessive, just a remarkably understated, but at the same time palate popping, matching of ingredients.

We perhaps overindulged last night, brought on of course by the realization that this was most likely the last time for some time we'll be able to experience Pierce's particular skill set. The highlights were many. For starters we had his always amazing Spicy Octopus (pictured), a spoonful of oceanic goodness that has so many flavors and textures happening, but with everything in perfect harmony. Also standout starters were the Ceviche which was filled with bright spice; and the Carpaccio, a plate of 1+ grade big eye tuna that had us swooning.

We moved on to section two of the menu and enjoyed perfectly cooked Cuttlefish. There were tender slices of this difficult to prepare fish which only served to remind how many chefs overcook it if they attempt it at all. The hand cut Squid Ink pasta was also wonderful. Then two final plates which were FIN's Scallop with blue prawn mousse and the Butterfish Agrodolce. The scallop was one dish that missed, the sweet blue prawn "mousse" which was a bit stiff and overwhelmed the scallop. The butterfish, however, was perfection and beautifully presented on two pillows of puréed currants and golden raisins. Spread out in front of the fish were dots of varying liquefied flavors; gaeta olives, Calabrian chilies, and two others that are escaping me. Agrodolce means sweet and sour, and this dish perfectly represented that ideal. A true wow moment, and only served to rue FIN's absence.

By the time we were done at 9:30 the place was empty, so unfortunately the word seems to be getting out and, not unexpectedly, business will undoubtedly suffer. With the he said/she said going on between Pierce and business owner Joan Dumas not helping the public relations mess this is becoming, being there was kind of like watching a slow death. It did make me all the more appreciative of Pierce and floor manager Israel Morales' ability to keep things focused and professional under what must be extremely difficult working conditions. FIN will be missed, but hopefully Pierce and his tight knit crew will surface sooner than later to continue moving the PDX seafood dial forward. I for one can't wait!

I am officially bereft....

.....at the news that the best Italian restaurant in Portland is closing. Word comes to me that Alba Osteria, owner/chef Kurt Spak's paean to the glory of Piedmontese cooking in SW Portland, is closing as of Dec. 31st. I ate at Alba quite often, and was always impressed by Kurt's passion and precision. His ethereal tajarin and agnolotti pastas and his perfectly prepared sweetbreads will be sorely missed.

Apparently financial issues, as they seem to do all too often, played a factor. They are serving their last dinner December 31st, a 5-course feast that I'm sure will a worthy sendoff. Hats off to Kurt and his wonderful staff who always made us feel very welcome and provided a true taste of the Piedmont. I can only look forward to where he'll turn up next.

UPDATE: my original post had the closing date Dec. 1st, due to an error of omission, mainly the fact that I left off the "3", so Alba will be open through the month of December. Make sure you get in to get your pleasure buttons pushed!

Sel Gris smoked out?

According to this story on the Oregonian's website Daniel Mondok's much acclaimed Hawthorne Boulevard restaurant Sel Gris may not reopen after the damage from the electrical fire three months ago in the adjoining business still has not been cleaned up. According to the article in The O:
"Today, Mondok told The Oregonian that the business may never reopen at the original site. He blamed squabbling between insurers and the property owner, manager and tenants."
Meanwhile Mondok is keeping busy at his new spot Foster Burger and is pondering reopening Sel Gris in a new location.

photo at top from The Oregonian

PDX Quick Bites: Genoa; Foster Burger

You think I've been starving and haven't had anything worth writing about? Think again. The real reason is I've been so busy eating that my hands have been covered with bacon fat and butter and my fingers keep slipping off the keyboard! Well, my hands are freshly scrubbed, I've put down the pork belly, and it's time to share a few choice bites around town....
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GENOA
The reinvention of Genoa was, along with the revamped Castagna, the most anticipated opening of the past year in Portland. With new owners who were promising to remake the tired, fusty interior and revamp its somewhat played menu I had been very anxious to see what happened. The opportunity came a couple of weeks ago when my sister and I were invited to be guests of Genoa for dinner. (disclaimer time: they paid for our dinner, but based on what I saw going to tables across the dining room I don't think they were putting any extra effort into our dinner). Since we didn't pay, I'm not making this a review, more of my impressions of what turned out to be a very impressive dinner.

The first thing you notice when you walk in the doors at Genoa is that this, to me, is a beautifully laid out dining room. With warm, soft lighting and tables just close enough together to provide an intimate sophisticated hum this doesn't feel like a Portland restaurant dining space. More New York-ish, and I really liked it. The menu offers a five course dinner for $55, which turns out to be quite a deal. Obviously not an everyday experience for most of us, but not quite in the splurge category either. You can also opt, as we did, for their wine pairing for an additional $35 (if they want to buy my dinner it seemed rude not to take advantage of their hospitality). For those who are wine pairing averse I took a look through the rather complete wine list and was surprised to see, along with the requisite high roller bottles for those who need to stroke their egos, an impressive selection of bottles priced at $35 or less, something you don't see too often at a restaurant that aspires to the heights Genoa is reaching for. With those decisions made, the plates started rolling out of new chef David Anderson's Italian kitchen. The highlights.....
- For starters an incredibly fresh crab bruschetta was delicious, especially good paired with the offered Loire valley sauvignon blanc.
- A second course of pasta. I chose the duck tortelli which was savory and satisfying. My sis made the better choice of an amazingly flavored wild mushroom fettucine, which is one of the best versions of this dish I've ever had. The earthy mushrooms were truly a revelation.
- After a decent salad course (unfortunately paired with a very tired 2005 Arneis white from Italy, a wine which is always meant to be consumed with the first year or two of life), entrées of Cattail Creek lamb riblets and a black cod fillets with mussels in a saffron broth were both supremely satisfying. The lamb was perfectly medium rare, succulent, and thankfully paired with a sensuous sweet potato sformato. The cod was moist and tender, and the whole dish came together beautifully.
- Dessert included a panna cotta, which so many places in Portland have ruined for me, that was light, perfectly set up with a topping of chopped pistachios. Also eaten with much enjoyment was a chocolate and hazelnut Cimabue, a palate pleasing mouthful of chantilly cream custard, meringue, and cocoa goodness. I also liked the offered sips of three different dessert wines which were part of the wine pairing.

All in all this was an excellent and auspicious dinner. Even at $55 a pop I would look forward to going back as often as my wallet would allow. Obviously David Anderson shed his Indian roots he planted at Vindalho and has slipped seamlessly into the Italian vernacular, which speaks volumes about his skill set. This is a place that we need to keep our eye on and is a welcome addition to PDX's Italian food scene.

Next door to Genoa is their more casual off shoot Accanto, which is a small plates style restaurant that I have only had a drink at. I thought the space itself was a little blah, and would be helped immensely by the removal of the jarring painting of a pipe-smoking woman that assaults your sense of good taste as soon as you walk in the door. I'm no art critic but...eeesh!
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FOSTER BURGER
As much as I lamented the passing of the cozy Cava spot on SE Foster Road, I have been salivating at the possibilities offered by the just opened Foster Burger (5339 SE Foster Road) which Sel Gris chef Daniel Mondok, Pok Pok honcho Andy Ricker, and Kurt Huffman have partnered to open. This burger bar (which may be PDX's answer to NY restaurateur Danny Meyer's ever expanding Shake Shack empire) opened last week, so of course w and I had to make our way over. We went last Saturday night, annxious to check out the offerings. The interior is somewhat changed from the Cava incarnation, and we hope that there are plans to put some warmth up on the very barren walls. When we sat in our booth we were informed that their temporary liquor license had expired, so no alcohol was on offer. Usually I would be traumatized by this sort of news but I was anxious to try their milkshakes. The burgers are hand formed from house ground beef (click here to see their menu) and were perfectly cooked & served atop a sesame bun made by the An Xuyen Vietnamese bakery next door. Loved that soft white bread bun, too! I had the housemade bacon and aged cheddar addition. w thought the "Foster Sauce" served on the bun was a little thick, but I liked its old school flavor and somewhat mess-inspiring effect. We both had the hand cut fries which were also excellent. Oh, before all this we started with their "The Wedge" salad. Be forewarned: this soon to be legendary salad is easily enough for 3, maybe 4, and consists of three quarter-wedges of iceberg lettuce with Gorgonzola, olive oil poached tomatoes, egg, croutons, Green goddess dressing and topped by a strip of fabulous house cured tesa, which is a pork belly-like slice of happiness and beats the hell out of Bacos! My chocolate shake was also done as I would expect, although w's malt was way too light on the "malt" flavor (almost non-existent). An easily corrected oversight, though. I loved the possibilities offered by F.B., am most happy it is a 5-minute drive from my house, and live in fear that there will soon be hordes of burger frenzied diners keeping me from my new addiction.

Genoa Returns

The much anticipated reopening of Genoa is happening December 1st, according to a press release I just received. The space is in the finishing stages. Executive Chef David Anderson spent a month traveling through Italy to gain inspiration, which in layman's terms means eating and drinking as much as he possibly could. The following is what was listed as a sample winter menu. A five course prix-fixe menu will be $55, which sounds like a more than reasonable price. From the looks of it I am going to be very happy Genoa is less than a five minute drive from my house!
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Bagna cauda – For many years, Genoa’s most popular antipasto. A fondue of cream, anchovies and garlic served hot with crisp seasonal vegetables and house made grissini for dipping.

Pasta Course: A choice of one of the following:
Agnolotti alla Piemontese – small pasta envelopes stuffed with a mixture of beef, chicken, pork and escarole served in a rich meat broth with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

Rotolo di pasta – fresh pasta filled with spinach, house-made ricotta and parmesan, rolled, then poached and sliced. Baked and served over a savory tomato sauce.

Salad Course
Insalata de patate e tartufi – a salad of sliced Yukon gold potatoes tossed with mâche, shallots, red wine vinegar, black truffles and extra virgin olive oil.

Main Course: A choice of one of the following:
Salmone con lenticchie- fillet of line-caught Alaskan King Salmon grilled and served over green lentils that have simmered in chicken stock, and battuto -- finely chopped carrots, celery, onions, pancetta and thyme. The dish is finished with a sauce of crème fraiche flavored with a touch of horseradish.

Quaglie ripiene con funghi- pan-roasted quail wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with a mixture of wild and cultivated mushrooms, shallots, butter and fresh bread crumbs. Accompanied by sautéed Brussels sprout leaves, the bird is served over creamy polenta with a complex reduction sauce flamed with gin.

Filetto al vino rosso- beef tenderloin fillet, seared, sliced and served with a rich red wine sauce flavored with shallots, parsley, chives, demi glace and poached beef marrow. Accompanied by a variety of roasted root vegetables, including sweet - and mild – cipollini onions.

Dessert Course – A choice of one of the following:
Dolci
Tiramisu - ladyfinger sponges soaked in brewed espresso and layered with Marsala-mascarpone filling.

Torta di Cimabue - a true classic Genoa dessert; chocolate meringue with toasted hazelnuts layered with chantilly cream.
Pear Tart Tatin - caramelized pear on puff pastry served with lemon panna cotta and caramel sauce.
Bittersweet Grand Marnier Torte - rich chocolate budino cake assembled with bittersweet Grand Marnier cream and cocoa genoise.
Formaggio- a selection of domestic and imported artisanal cheeses with fresh fruit, nuts and house made preserves and condiments.

PDX Quick Bites: Taste Unique; Celilo; Olympic Provisions; all you can eat Tastebud Pizza & more news!

When I was in New York City a few years ago I stumbled across this tiny Italian joint in Soho called Pepe Rosso To Go. I wandered in about lunch time and saw they had about six tables absolutely crammed together. Pastas were listed on the blackboard above the counter, directly behind which was the kitchen. It was cheap, I think around seven or eight bucks for a good sized plate of very well prepared noodles in various configurations. I remember thinking "This is the kind of spot that you'll never find in Portland." And I haven't....until last Monday. I'd been hearing some buzz about and had spotted this place called Taste Unique right next to another of my favorite places to hang out, Bar Avignon, on SE 22nd and Division. Rumored to be the home of ridiculously good and cheap pastas, mostly to take home, but also with a small eat-in opportunity. I'd read this piece in our local fishwrap a few days ago, and it was a reminder that I needed to get in and see what's coming out of the kitchen.

Monday at lunch I was on my way home with the days shopping and found myself driving right by. A quick stop and I was walking in to owner Stefania Toscano's shoebox sized dining room and kitchen. Looking up to the left I saw their menu board with what was fresh and good that day. Lots of pasta sauces, lasagna, and focaccia with some very tempting sweet stuff to take out, with a few choices for eating in. I grabbed one of the five stools at their (kindly put) cozy eating bar and ordered a plate of spinach cannelloni from Stefania's husband Lawrence McCormick, who was not-so-quietly working the register. Eight bucks. After all the good vibe out there about this place, could this be the PDX answer to Pepe Rosso (without the grit, cockroaches, and deranged looking kitchen staff)? As I sat at the counter pondering these possibly earth-changing possibilities a plate of thin slices of focaccia (above right) appeared before me via the friendly hands of Lawrence. Oh man, this was focaccia that doughy dreams are made of. Perfectly chewy, salty, with a light sheen of fruity olive oil. Instant addictive possibilities. As I chewed my way through these, trying desperately and with limited success to save some, a small Taste Unique-style amuse bouche also came sliding in front of me. Stefania apparently had a few extra of her orecchiete with ricotta and pancetta (pic left). House-made pasta ears, with a light dusting of fresh ricotta and piggy bits. The perfect nosh before my cannelloni. Then this appeared....
A gorgeous, eye-catching plateful of traditional Italian comfort food. Perfectly textured pasta tubes filled with a spinach mixture that tasted so fresh, topped with a piquant tomato sauce, and surrounded by a lush, creamy, and rich pool of bechamel. Wow! Talk about exceeding expectations. This wasn't an undersized portion. In true nonna fashion Stefania seems to have made it her mission that no one walks away hungry. And I didn't. But as I waddled up to the counter, I wasn't so full that I couldn't take a dish of her homemade tiramisu to share with w for a surprise after dinner treat. This too...of course....was amazing. Light, moist (but not too), sensual....mmmmm! The portion size of the tiramisu is ostensibly for four, but once we started in it seemed all too easy to finish between the two of us. I mean really, how are you supposed to stop?

So it is with some hesitation I write and highly recommend Taste Unique, because I'll live in fear that with about ten seats in the whole place I may be sabotaging my future appetite reduction plans. But again, this is all about love and information, right? Just make room when you see me walking in!

**Also noted on my way out the door that they have an OLCC app in process, so hopefully we will be able to sip some vino rosso and bianco soon with Stefania and Lawrence's fabulous offerings. BTW-the pic behind Stefania (from the Oregonian) is of her mother, her mother's siter, and their aunt making pasta. You can tell the roots run deep here!
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Last Sunday w and I took a quick day trip to Hood River to get out of town with the ultimate goal to drive up the Hood River Valley to get some apples orchard direct. When we got to Hood River we wandered around this über-outdoorsy feeling town (if you're not driving a Subaru with a rack on top with some sort of outdoor gear strapped to it you feel like kind of a pussy) and stopped into Celilo for lunch on the recommendation of a friend who has family in the area. There w had a very good eggplant and mozzarella sando, and I had their burger which I have to say is...and if you know me you know I don't say this lightly...near Castagna Café quality. Maybe even as good. A fresh, not-too-lean hand formed patty from local beef with some white cheddar and a cross of applewood smoked bacon. Perfectly medium-rare on a soft bun, this had it all. Great fries on the side by the way. A burger that by itself is almost worth the trip. They also have a nice beer and wine list happening (for very affordable prices).

After that bit of satisfaction we drove up the truly beautiful Hood River Valley where we got some amazing apples (at $.59/lb!!) at Kiyokowa Orchards where there was no one in the sales room, but there were huge bins of various apples and pears, a scale, and a little slot in the wall where you pay on the honor system. Ah, small town America lives on! A quick stop at Double Mountain Brewery for a quick pop to steel my nerves for the drive home finished off an incredibly satisfying Sunday outing.
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A story today on the incomprehensibly bad Oregonian website about the soon-to-open Olympic Provisions, the pork-centric love child of Clyde Common owner Nate Tilden, Clyde chef Jason Barwikowski, and former Castagna chef Elias Cairo. Nate and Jason will be in charge of the restaurant and wine side, and Elias will be living his force meat dreams running the salumeria side, where all manner of meat curing will be happening. The restaurant will have an informal menu with nothing topping $15. I for one can't wait to get my hands on some of Cairo's cured pork products, and Tilden always provides a comfortable place to get your food and drink on. Look for it to open sometime next week!
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Just heard about the best pizza deal in town: at Mark Doxtader's fabulous Tastebud Pizza at 3220 SE Milwaukie Avenue, every Sunday from 5-10pm for $15 a person it is all you can eat pizza fresh out of his wood burning oven. He's pushing the tables together for a communal food fest, and his super fresh farm-to-table locavore's dream pizzas and a couple of salads will be available to those in the know who are fortunate enough to grab a seat. Don't bother calling me for dinner for the next couple of Sunday nights, 'kay?
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More national PDX food cart love, this time via msnbc where some tattooed hipster chick reporter does a story comparing the Portland and New York food cart scenes. New York?? Get the fuck outta here. They got nothing on the PDX scene when it comes to kick ass food carts. Just sayin'!!

PDX Quick Bites: Wy'east Pizza; Good Taste Noodle House; & tidbits

Besides stuffing my face with leftover Halloween candy....damn my newfound love of $100Grand bars!!...I've had a couple of worth-mentioning eating experiences here in Portland that you should take note of....
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WY'EAST PIZZA
Imagine the most unlikely place you would think of to get a great pizza in Portland. If a darkened parking lot on a lonely stretch of SE 50th Av just north of Powell Blvd. didn't enter your mind, join the club. But at just such a parking lot, lit only by the cheery lights strung outside the trailer that houses Wy'east Pizza, you will find some of the best pie in PDX! I'd driven by many times, only to be foiled by their limited hours of Tuesday-Saturday, 4-8pm. Not their fault, mind you, it just seemed I was always too early or too late. But last Wednesday w and I decided to make a point to sample the goods, so on my way home from the wine shack I pulled into the lot next to the trailer. You do three things when you walk to the open trailer window. The first thing you do is check out the menu (probably after a very welcoming "hello" from co-owner Red); the second thing you do is think to yourself "this is too cheap to be good", with 12" pies going for $11 to $14. But after I ordered our pies...one margherita and one pepperoni (made with pepperoni from Otto's Deli on SE Woodstock)...and watched other owner Squish toss and stretch their homemade dough out on the tiny prep space on the counter and carefully place toppings on it before sliding it into their propane oven, while having a conversation with both he and Red (I learned their names when I was leaving. I asked them, and they said "Red and Squish" They asked me mine, and I was almost embarrassed that I didn't have a cool name. "Um, I'm Bruce....sorry about that....") the word that popped into my head was "earnest". These two work the cart by themselves, source as much of their ingredients as they can locally, make all the dough by hand, only make 22 pies a night, and do it all with the conviction of people who not only care about what they make, but the people who eat it. Pretty cool. Oh, and the pies? Freaking delicious! With their slightly thick crust that gets nicely crisped and slightly blackened in their 800* oven (and yes, I also wondered about the sanity of having an 800* oven in a tiny trailer) yet still retains a good chew and nice flavor, the pies have plenty of heft. Generously topped especially the pepperoni with that smoky Otto's sausage, and with a pretty fabulous tomato sauce, the pies were satisfying in every way. And at $12 a pop, ridiculously affordable.

That's Squish performing some sort of pizza making incantation over my pie.
Whatever witchcraft he's practicing, it works!

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GOOD TASTE NOODLE HOUSE
These guys have three spots around town. If the other two are as good as their strip mall outpost at SE 82nd & Harrison, then you probably have one near you, which also means you have some of the best noodles in town at your beck and call. For whatever reason, even after hearing many of our friends mention how good Good Taste Noodle House is, we hadn't made it out. Sunday, after a brisk morning hike, we made sure to correct that oversight. With that, here is a the pictorial review (and keep in mind that everything here is exceedingly affordable, running $7-$8.50)...

Roasted pork, which I loved in various Hong Kong versions last year, seems to be most elusive. The Good Taste effort, while appropriately crackly and salty on the skin side, was a bit dry and not quite fatty enough. Also served somewhat cool. Close, but not quite there. Next time I'll order the roast duck, which I saw go by our table on a couple of plates and looked delicious.

Five Spice Beef Brisket Pot was excellent. The meat was super tender, with tendon still attached to give it a nice chew. The sauce was really spectacular, deeply colored and richly flavored, not too salty, with a complex back flavor. Very impressive.

Shrimp Wonton Noodle Soup had an excellent broth, perfectly done noodles, and very tasty wontons, although w thought they were a bit too big, with the wrong ratio of wrapper to filling. Also the filling could have been more shrimpy and less porky, but it was still a pretty tasty bowl of noodles.

And today I came back for the Shrimp Chow Mein with pan fried noodles. I saw it on the menu yesterday, but we already had too much on the table. I couldn't shake it though, so today made it a Sunday/Monday Good Taste doubleheader. And boy, am I glad I did! This was an exceptionally satisfying plate of noodles. Lots of tender shrimp with piles of crispy veggies, all on top of spot on pan fried noodles with just the right amount of crisp tender texture. I loved this, probably the best version I've had since our China trip!

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Just read in this article in our local fishwrap about the new café to be attached to the soon-to-reopen Genoa, which will be called Bar Accanto. offering bar bite small plates and downsized entrée portions, this should be an opportunity for chef David Anderson to experiment with things that might find their way on to the Genoa menu, and provide a much needed more affordable and casual dining experience. Both Genoa and Accanto hope to open by the end of November in what will definitely be one of the most anticipated restaurant moments of the year.
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one year ago today @ E.D.T.: Hong Kong views

PDX Eats/Drinks: Castagna, Ristretto, Caffé Umbria, Bar Avignon, Foodcarts, and Beer!

A few favorite places where I've been getting my PDX food and drink on....
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CASTAGNA
If anyone is taking a bigger risk than Castagna owner Monique Siu in our local restaurant scene I haven't heard. She has taken one of the city's most respected dining rooms and totally remade it, with food that you have never been able to get in Portland and a remodeled dining room that is both cozy and chic. The food is nothing less than a new way to look at dining out here in PDX, with preparations and technique that no one else is doing. We went to the preview dinner a couple of weeks ago and were pretty impressed. But I was anxious to go back and check it out on a regular night. So last week w and I hooked up with our friends J&K to see what they're slinging. Based on the dinner we had, there is absolutely reason to be excited. The menu is short, with about 15 choices, from starters to mains descending down the page. You make a meal with two or three selections (ask your server for guidance if need be), which are listed by their ingredients, with the focus ingredient of the dish in bold letters to the left of that selection (click on the Castagna link at the top to see the menu). Not as complicated as it sounds, I promise. Highlights from our dinner included the "Crab", which was four small piles of fresh crab meat topped with toasted amaranth, with a few spots of lemon foam dotted around the plate (btw- LOVE the new serving pieces!) with browned butter pooled (lightly) in the middle of the plate. A bite of all of the ingredients together made the crab explode with flavor. Light, rich, intense all at the same time. That went for most everything we had, and shows that young gun chef Matthew Lightner, the 28-year old running the kitchen, has some serious confidence in his chosen skill set. My main course was an incredibly tender and delicious sous vide lamb breast, which was slow cooked for 28 hours at 160* (!!). Owner Siu has provided chef Lightner with some pretty cool new toys to play with in the kitchen. I for one can't wait to see how the show progresses. Prices are reasonable, with not small portions, making each menu choice something you can share, and believe me you'll want to!

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COFFEE SHOTS
Have you ever drunk blueberries and gotten your morning wakeup call at the same time? No? Neither had I until I tried Ristretto Roasters Ethiopian Sidamo coffee. Just opening the bag of beans the first hit you get is obviously coffee, but followed immediately by a distinctive blueberry aroma. That carries over into the cup, making this one of the more intriguing ways to get that morning groove going. Also in my pot has been their Mexican Santa Cruz roast, which doesn't have the blueberry but does have a seductive, spicy cocoa aroma and flavor. Owner Din Johnson sources out organic, single-origin beans from around the world and uses an obviously sure hand to coax the best from them......ADD RISTRETTO: Just this morning I had perhaps the best single shot of espresso (right) I've had in a long time at the Ristretto Williams Av. location. A perfectly smooth, not-bitter-at-all short pull (I hate those places that think an espresso should be 3 or 4 ounces of weakness in a cup), with an adorably inspired shot glass of sparkling water to refresh your palate if need be. I didn't since the shot was lingering in such a satisfying way!


If the espresso at Ristretto is the current king of shots, then I also have to give huge ups to the cappuccino which I remain enthralled with at Caffé Umbria on NW 12th & Glisan. This is everything a cappuccino should be: deeply flavored coffee topped with a light, fluffy foam that is always beautifully presented in the cup. For me the key to a great capp is, besides a smooth coffee, is the foam. The Umbria foam is perfect, making their cappuccino the best I've had outside Italy. And like the sparkling h2o at Ristretto, I love that Umbria gives you a tiny piece of Italian dark chocolate with your drink, a perfectly satisfying amuse bouche to nibble with your cup.

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BAR AVIGNON
I wrote up the new happenings at Bar Avignon a few weeks ago. I've had the good fortune in the last two weeks to be able to eat twice more at BA where new chef Jeremy Eckels is continuing to fine tune his menu. Very farm driven food which is expertly prepared and served to the fortunate hungry crowd at ridiculously affordable prices. Everything I've had has been pretty freaking fabulous (w is particularly enamored with their seafood stew, and on my last visit I had an unbelievably moist and tender pork loin). Take that along with their very reasonably priced wine list and this is without question among the top one or two best deals in local dining. Get thee to a bar stool (for 2 people their bar is definitely the place to camp out for dinner) or grab a booth on SE 22nd and Division soon and you'll eat exceedingly well without having your wallet vacuumed out!

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WHIFFIES and POTATO CHAMPION
I stopped last night to grab a bite at the post-apocalyptic foodcart pod that resides at SE 12th and Hawthorne to grab some cheap grub after a wine tasting at VINO. I've been following Whiffies fried hand pie cart on twitter and been reading about their amazing savory pies but for various reasons hadn't tried them out. Same goes for Potato Champion, home to poutine in P-town. So last night the time was right. The only two savory pies on offer last night at Whiffies were the BBQ Beef Brisket and Pumpkin Curry so of course I grabbed both ($4 each) along with a small cone of fries from P.C. ($3.50) to take home to share with w. Man, if you need to get your fried food on to ensure you'll wake up at 2a.m. desperately thirsty, this stuff is the deal....and worth it, IMO! The P.C. fries (I skipped the poutine for now) were excellent, fluffy and potatoey, perfectly fried and salty and I am instantly hooked on their tarragon-anchovy mayo dipping sauce. Then you have the fried half moons from Whiffies. First off a light, not-too-dry dough wrapped around some amazing filling. The brisket would have done any bbq joint proud, and the vegan pumpkin curry was like a bite of savory pumpkin pie, like having Thanksgiving dinner in New Delhi. The hipster/alt vibe runs strong at this corner, and that's not a bad thing when you can chow this cheaply and this well!


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GREEN DRAGON PUB
After a "hard" day of tasting wine with the reps who schlep their product, some days endlessly, through the doors at the wine shack, NOTHING gets the taste of too much grape juice out of my mouth than a refreshing, palate cleansing IPA. Lately I've been meeting my über-talented artist friend Amy Ruppel for beers and bitching at southeast PDX's bastion of all that is malty, hoppy, and alcohol fueled, the Green Dragon Pub. Already boasting one of the best selections in our beer deranged town, the GDP has just opened their Back 30 Bar, with 30 more choices of carb loaded goodness to choose from. Me thinks this is what they mean by "the good life getting better"!

It's not your mother's Castagna

Hell, it isn't even close to the Castagna YOU knew three weeks ago. That is how big the changes are. Owner Monique Siu had mentioned how this was like opening a brand new restaurant, and she couldn't have been more right. From the interior changes to a menu unlike any other in town, the game has changed on SE 18th and Hawthorne. But did it change for the better? That's what I was hoping to find out when I received an invite to a preview dinner last night.

I have to say first off this isn't a review of the restaurant. It's way too early for any passing of judgment. But I can give you my observations. One of the biggest gripes a lot of people have always had about Castagna is what, in some opinions (not mine), was a too stark dining room. Those who held that misguided thought should be very happy with the new paint scheme Monique introduced. The two end walls have gone form stark white to a warm brown, and new banquettes in a brown fabric line three walls now. The effect is to make for a cozier, more intimate dining space, and I really like how it feels.

Now, the food. I can only guess how much pressure is on 28 year old Matthew Lightner, who has taken control of the Castagna helm and done a 180* mid course turn. It's a gutsy move for Monique and Matthew to take an icon of Portland's dining scene and make such a drastic change. The same local food source philosophy still holds, but the menu shows how much has changed. What you'll be handed when you sit down is a one page sheet of 15 choices of appetizers and entrées, ranging in price from a very reasonable $10-$22. It's not your normal choice of app, then main of protein-veg-starch. With this menu you have the responsibility to make you own meals, and I can see it will be incumbent on the staff to help guide the customer through this new landscape. To the left of each menu choice there is one word in bold, like "tomato, or "chestnuts", etc., that is the main focus of that selection, the other ingredients working to bring out the essence of each focus item. One dish in and the "new" Castagna was in full evidence. We started with the "Tomatoes" (above left), which was ripe cherry tomatoes with oysters, the whole topped with a surprising, and striking horseradish "snow". This is accomplished with one of the many new toys Lightner has to play with in his kitchen. In this instance horseradish is frozen in nitrogen, then blended to form an icy powder before being sprinkled on top of the tomatoes and oysters. Really fresh flavors, and the icy snow was like nothing I've ever had.

Next up was "Fall Harvest" (left), a bright mélange of local greens...hyssop, mustard, amaranth...placed into a bowl (BTW- the new serving pieces are beautiful) and then the server pours a parmesan broth around the greens as a sort of dressing. Parmesan broth....I don't seem to remember anything like at the old Castagna! This too worked in a surprisingly delicious way, the salad again super fresh and each bite seemed to yield a different flavor. Following that was "Leeks", describes as mussels, char grilled leeks, fresh cream, charred hazelnuts. This was a beautiful plate, the roasted leeks tender, and sprinkled with bits of charred leek pieces and black specks of ash lending a smoky sidelight to the fresh mussels. Neither w or I could detect any hint of hazelnut in this dish however.

Then it was on to the protein courses, which paradoxically was started with a dish called "Cabbage". What it was was a sous vide piece of halibut with whey that was meltingly moist and tender, topped with steamed savoy cabbage and sitting on top of fresh ricotta, with sprinklings of dill adding a needed herbal edge. Again a broth was lightly poured around the piece of halibut. Next on the protein parade was, of course, "Celery Root", which was oxtails that had been braised in local hard cider on a piece of celery root in ash (!!), with thinly sliced apple and cress. This was a very nice, savory/sweet bite, with the apples and cress providing that needed textural contrast.

Last up of the main dish samples was easily the most unusual thing we tried all night. Delicious, but way different than anything I've had. A piece of aged rib eye (cooked perfectly medium rare but a bit tough) surrounded by fingerling potatoes and topped by a translucent piece of smoked fat and topped by oxalis. I would at first think this might be over the top...I mean a sheet of fat??...but it actually melted in your mouth, providing a sense of smokiness to the beef and potato, with the very savory oxalis herb adding it's bitter/floral compliment. Did I mention this was a different Castagna?

To finish we had two different desserts, which are conceived by Lightner and Castagna's pastry chef. First an elderberry baba, a light, slightly sweet cake, with a stewed prune and an intensely flavored scoop of coconut ice cream and an elderberry broth surrounding it. The lightly floral cake and the coconut ice cream played very well together. Then they brought out a chocolate mousse that was sensational. Mousse cake with a cocoa crumble on one side, and more "snow" on the other, this time of the white chocolate variety. The texture contrast on this was spot on, and again the "snow" provided such a surprising twist and a cool, palate refreshing match to the creamy mousse.

So is this a good thing happening at Castagna? When Monique came by the table and in talking afterward, you can sense her excitement at this huge change, and she and Lightner are absolutely taking Portland dining in a new, modern-thinking direction, giving a modern twist to the whole farm-to-table ethos. Lightner came out of the kitchen, and in a short conversation at our table we were struck by his seriousness and well spoken commitment to what he's trying to accomplish, which belies his young age. I can tell there's going to be some surprised, confused looks on the faces of longtime Castagna regulars, but my thought is if they give Siu and Lightner's vision a chance, the rewards are evident. The prices are certainly reasonable, and it is going to be very compelling ride watching Lightner's steer off in new directions.

The "new" Castagna

as kind of a teaser to the preview dinner I'm going tonight, I just got the following press release from Castagna's PR flaks detailing a few of the many changes at the restaurant (as owner Monique Siu told me "we are basically opening a brand new restaurant"), a bio of new chef Matt Lightner (who at just 28 has got to be under more pressure than any cook in town), and the new menu which will debuting this Saturday the 10th. I'll be reporting on tonight's dinner tomorrow....stay tuned!
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PORTLAND, Oregon – (October 8, 2009) – Just back from Castagna’ s new garden, Executive Chef Matthew Lightner sorts his treasures of herbs, flowers and produce to consider the best way to bring out the natural flavors of each ingredient. Sometimes appearing more like a detective than chef, Lightner looks to the ingredients to tell the story, drawing from a vast history of cooking traditions as well as modern techniques as he creates each new dish. He puzzles over the perfect technique to use– from grilling or brining to smoking or curing, and even welcomes more modern innovations like sous vide, which uses braising to bring out the intense flavors of certain cuts of meat like leg of lamb and pork cheeks.

“I want the flavors to be clearly in focus in each dish,” said Lightner. “The cooking technique needs to be the right one to coax the authentic flavors from each ingredient.”

Menu Brings out Flavor of Place
With Lightner’s new menu debuting on October 10th, diners at Castagna can expect a close connection to the local farmers and foragers who passionately oversee our food source. The dining room menu will change often in respect for what is available on the local farms and in the Castagna garden.

Seasonal Menu

SAVORY
Tomatoes oysters, preserved tomatoes, horseradish
Crab dungeness crab, amaranth, lemon, cardamom
Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, roe, garlic
Fall Harvest vegetables and greens of the season, parmesan
Beets scallops, grapefruit, beets, walnuts
Leeks mussels, char grilled leeks, cream, charred hazelnuts
Tubers potatoes, sunchokes, carrots, pancetta, aioli
Salsify marrow, roasted salsify, bread crumbs, brown butter
Chestnuts agnolotti of chestnut, pecorino, prosciutto,
Duck egg seeds, grains, rye crisp, slow egg and jus
Cabbage halibut, fresh ricotta, whey, savoy cabbage, mustard
Onions salt cod, pickled, grilled and smoked onions, garlic
Celery root oxtails, celery root in ash, apples, cress
Potxas lamb, beans, toasted seeds, peppers, onions
Beef aged rib eye, smoked fat, oxali s

SWEET
Apple cream tart, apple, caramel, fresh cheese
Hazelnuts ice cream, frozen meringue, pears
Chocolate mousse, almond streusel, frozen white chocolate
Elderberry prune, coconut,st. germaine baba
Sorbets carrot, apple, banana in ginger brew

From Iberian Pig Farms to Portland’s Food Scene
Matt Lightner, 28, oversees the kitchens at both Castagna and Café Castagna after his recent immersion in Spanish culture and cuisine, including an 18-month stint at Mugaritz, one of the most esteemed restaurants in the culinary world. While in Spain, he met with some of the country’s artisan producers and growers – from a tour of olive presses in Andalusia to Iberian pig farms and cheese caves in the Basque region. During his tenure in Spain, Lightner studied with Ferran Adria, Andoni Aduriz and Juan Mari Arzak through the Icex program, a culinary program for select chefs to visit Spain’s modern restaurants and artisan producers.

As the new executive chef at Castagna Restaurant in Portland, Oregon, Lightner, will take over one of Portland’s most respected kitchens -- known for its sustained commitment to locally grown ingredients. “I hope to bring Castagna’s menu even closer to the farmers and foragers and create dishes using a variety of techniques I studied in both the kitchens of Europe and closer to home in the Pacific NW and California.”

At Mugaritz, Lightner was immersed in a Spanish culture passionate about pure and true flavors and found a new love for the botanical side of food. “Working at one of the best restaurants in the world has elevated my connection to food and how to celebrate one single ingredient to allow for its true flavor to emerge. I also want to honor the sourcing of each ingredient and make the activity of finding the herb, flower or seed part of the overall dining experience.”

Prior to cooking in Spain and spending a month at Noma in Copenhagen, Lightner held many positions up and down the West Coast. In 2006 he was the chef de cuisine at L’Auberge in Del Mar, California where he worked alongside James Beard award-winning chef Paul McCabe. He also learned French culinary techniques from French Master Chefs Philippe Boulot of the Heathman Restaurant and Francis Perrot of Fairbanks Ranch.

“We are all excited to welcome Matt into our Castagna family,” said owner Monique Siu. “Matt shares our philosophy of creating food that is the cleanest, clearest, most natural expression of our local ingredients. His modern-natural cuisine coaxes the most flavor from the best ingredients using both ancient and modern techniques.”

Dining Room Gets Fresh Look
Castagna’s dining room received a fresh new design by local architects Jeff Stuhr and Kevin Valk of Holst Architecture. As the original designers for the restaurant, Holst remains true to the earlier concept of a minimalist, clean dining room void of clutter. “We wanted everything to be about the food and the people and let the room design enhance the flavors and presentation found on the plate,” said Siu. “The updated remodel still allows for the food to be in focus, but we have added warmer hues and more intimate spaces within the dining room.”

About Castagna
Located adjacent to the Ladd’s Addition neighborhood in Southeast Portland, Castagna has been a culinary destination for more than ten years offering sophisticated dishes prepared simply with seasonal ingredients and influences from France and Italy. Monique Siu and Executive Chef Matt Lightner collaborate on recipe and menu development. Castagna is open 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday at 1752 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. For more information call 503-231-7373 or visit www.castagnarestaurant.com

PDX Quick Bites: Ping; Koi Fusion; + coffee, carts, bars, and Taboada's, oh my!!

Some quick thoughts/observations from eating around town.....
After a recent lunch at Ping with my friend's Denise and her man K I asked on a twitter post if anyone else was as underwhelmed with Andy Ricker's Ping as I am? This place opened with great hype, riding the PDX Asian street food wave created by his much better Pok Pok. Both times I have been to Ping I am always kind of "meh". Okay, so where are all these amazingly creative, vibrant flavors? From what I hear about Thai street food, you can have fireworks going off in your mouth. Ping is like a sparkler that gives you a minor thrill, then fizzles. It seems it has been dumbed down for local consumption. Some things I like: the octopus skewer (below right) was nicely al dente with the requisite fire. The meat stuffing in the pork bao (pic at top) was very flavorful, but the bun surround was too chewy (and not a good deal at $4 each). The other things were....nice...but seemed to lack spark. And finally, I have to join the chorus that goes "what the hell is up with the skewers HAVING to be ordered by the 2 each?" If I'm by myself, maybe I only want one skewer so I can try more things. Would the orbit of the Ping kitchen really come to a screeching halt if they had to put out...gasp...one skewer?!? And I have to say, the few small bits of over-cooked lamb on that skewer for $6 (oh, wait, I meant $3 each as they are listed on the menu, but you have to order 2...*#@!%^) were not a terribly good deal...or a just plain terrible deal. The greater mystery is how can Pok Pok be so good, and this place not so much? Answers, anyone??

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So, with being less than satisfied with the Ping lunch, Denise and I (sadly K had to go back to work) wandered a couple blocks down to Burnside and 4th, where the roving Koi Fusion Korean taco cart was parked for the day. In the food media world it seems you can't throw a tortilla without hitting an article about Korean taco carts. It started with the Kogi carts that are the hottest thing in L.A. dining. Koi owner Bo Kwon, inspired by a visit to Kogi decided to give us a Portland version. The Koi marinated meats are delicious. Fresh made corn tortillas, creative Asian style topping, and tender, very flavorful Bulgogi tacos and my favorite, the Korean Short Rib tacos are fantastic at $2 each (hello Ping? $2 each, and I can order ONE if I want). Both marinated in what their website calls "Mama Kwon’s secret sauce" they were spicy, savory, and sweet....and delicious! We also tried the spicy Bulgogi pork taco, which could have used a lot more seasoning. I can't wait to go back and try the two beef tacos again, as well as the Seoul Sliders, which are tacos with "Bulgogi BBQ beef, shredded napa cabbage, griddled onions, crisp bean sprouts and spicy mayo". You can find out where to get your Koi on by checking their twitter feed, and it is totally worth the chase!

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TASTY BITS: A double shot of good news for those who like to get their caffeine high going. I was hanging outside the Spella Caffé coffee cart downtown, swilling another of owner Andrea Spella's perfect double espressos, when I found out he is opening a store at SW 5th and Alder that he hopes to have going by Dec. 1st. Great coffee without the raindrops falling on my head? I am so in!.....The other coffee shot is the news flash that Billy Wilson, owner of Barista coffee in the "Pearl", dropped on twitter yesterday that he has just signed a lease for a space on NE Alberta. Billy is a fanatic about sourcing high quality organic coffee from small boutique roasters around the U.S., and his drinks, as you'd expect from a champion barista, are top notch.

Add Pok Pok: It was written up in our local fishwrap that Pok Pok/Whiskey Soda Lounge owner Andy Ricker is opening a bar just kitty corner from his always rocking spot on SE Division, so us poor bastards who wait outside in all kinds of weather can have a warm, dry place inside to get some alcohol fueled warmth and a few tasty bar snacks. The new space will become Whiskey Soda Lounge and Pok Pok across the street will be just that.
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Just opened in my Sellwood 'hood (and conveniently just across the street from the wine shack) is a new food cart called Bruce Lee Kitchen. I've checked out their phat thai and red curry, both around $5 and $6, and was really impressed. The phat thai isn't quite a classic style, being somewhat spicier than your normal version, but it was bursting with fresh flavor. And I was even more smitten with cart owner Liza's red curry (pic at left), which was a deep, rich, lightly creamy and pungently flavored blast of palate pleasure. Great values, and an excellent compliment to the goodness always coming out of the Garden State cart which sits right next to BLK. My life continues to receive many tasty blessings!
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Portland Monthly blogger Mike Thelin mentioned in his post Monday that Navarre's John Taboada is opening another space just down from Navarre on 22nd and E. Burnside he is going to call Luce (pron. loo-chay). It's a two room spot, one of which will house a large commercial kitchen, the other a spot Taboada hopes to turn into a dining room event space seating up to 60 people (a la Beast?). Taboada, whose Navarre was named "Restaurant of the Year" by The Oregonian last year, cagily says he should be open "Soon".