Genoa Returns

The much anticipated reopening of Genoa is happening December 1st, according to a press release I just received. The space is in the finishing stages. Executive Chef David Anderson spent a month traveling through Italy to gain inspiration, which in layman's terms means eating and drinking as much as he possibly could. The following is what was listed as a sample winter menu. A five course prix-fixe menu will be $55, which sounds like a more than reasonable price. From the looks of it I am going to be very happy Genoa is less than a five minute drive from my house!
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Bagna cauda – For many years, Genoa’s most popular antipasto. A fondue of cream, anchovies and garlic served hot with crisp seasonal vegetables and house made grissini for dipping.

Pasta Course: A choice of one of the following:
Agnolotti alla Piemontese – small pasta envelopes stuffed with a mixture of beef, chicken, pork and escarole served in a rich meat broth with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

Rotolo di pasta – fresh pasta filled with spinach, house-made ricotta and parmesan, rolled, then poached and sliced. Baked and served over a savory tomato sauce.

Salad Course
Insalata de patate e tartufi – a salad of sliced Yukon gold potatoes tossed with mâche, shallots, red wine vinegar, black truffles and extra virgin olive oil.

Main Course: A choice of one of the following:
Salmone con lenticchie- fillet of line-caught Alaskan King Salmon grilled and served over green lentils that have simmered in chicken stock, and battuto -- finely chopped carrots, celery, onions, pancetta and thyme. The dish is finished with a sauce of crème fraiche flavored with a touch of horseradish.

Quaglie ripiene con funghi- pan-roasted quail wrapped in pancetta and stuffed with a mixture of wild and cultivated mushrooms, shallots, butter and fresh bread crumbs. Accompanied by sautéed Brussels sprout leaves, the bird is served over creamy polenta with a complex reduction sauce flamed with gin.

Filetto al vino rosso- beef tenderloin fillet, seared, sliced and served with a rich red wine sauce flavored with shallots, parsley, chives, demi glace and poached beef marrow. Accompanied by a variety of roasted root vegetables, including sweet - and mild – cipollini onions.

Dessert Course – A choice of one of the following:
Dolci
Tiramisu - ladyfinger sponges soaked in brewed espresso and layered with Marsala-mascarpone filling.

Torta di Cimabue - a true classic Genoa dessert; chocolate meringue with toasted hazelnuts layered with chantilly cream.
Pear Tart Tatin - caramelized pear on puff pastry served with lemon panna cotta and caramel sauce.
Bittersweet Grand Marnier Torte - rich chocolate budino cake assembled with bittersweet Grand Marnier cream and cocoa genoise.
Formaggio- a selection of domestic and imported artisanal cheeses with fresh fruit, nuts and house made preserves and condiments.

Eating Indian: Pork Vindalho

Many things India-related escape me. I don't get cricket. I've only been to two yoga classes so my cosmic consciousness probably isn't quite where it should be. I've never seen a Bollywood movie....I didn't even see Slumdog Millionaire. Beef is apparently unacceptable. But the rest of the food...my universal language of choice...now that I get!

From chef David Anderson of Portland's Vindalho Restaurant, this pork vindalho is absolutely sensational. I first tasted this amazing subcontinent creation at a beer dinner I attended at Vindalho and was enthralled. Why? First off it's braised pork shoulder, my current favorite cut of meat. Add to that an amazing melange of freshly toasted and ground spices (in the pic at left) that are the definition of sensory overload, give it all a few hours in the oven for magical things to happen and prepare for feelings of intense pleasure. For some working on their yoga sastra will help them connect. For me the path to true enlightenment is marked with platefuls of vindalho!
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Pork Vindalho
From David Anderson/Vinadlho Restaurant

ingredients:
1/2 ounce dried arbol chilies, stems removed
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 teaspoons fenugreek seed
2 cinnamon sticks, broken in the mortar
1/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds
Toast chilies and the whole spices separately.
Cool and combine in a bowl. Grind together in
a coffee grinder.

1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, sliced (about 2 cups)
¾ cup cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cayenne
5 pounds boneless pork shoulder,
cut into 2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon ginger, chopped
3 cups water
Salt to taste

method:
Preheat oven to 350˚F. Heat half the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and fry until brown and caramelized, about 30-40 minutes. Drain the onions and cool on a plate. Puree onions in the blender with a splash of the vinegar to form a smooth paste. Transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add ground spices, turmeric, cayenne, and the rest of the vinegar and blend together.

agents of flavor: the onion paste mixed with the spices

Heat the rest of the oil in a heavy pot. Salt the pork, brown in batches, and set aside. Set heat to medium and combine ginger, garlic, and spice paste and fry for a few seconds. Add the water and salt and bring mixture to a simmer.

the mix right before the pork goes in. LOVE that color!

Add pork to spice mixture, cover, and bake in the oven for at least two and a half hours (checking occasionally to see if there is enough liquid) until the pork is very tender. If liquid is needed, add smallamounts of water at a time. To serve, ladle pork and spices into a bowl and serve with a side of rice.

EATER'S NOTE: This dish kicked ass right off the bat, but we finished it two nights later and it was even better. The spices and other flavors all came together beautifully. So I would think it might be best, if you can plan it, to make it one day and have it the next. I reheated it at 350* for about 30-40 minutes.