Eating Portland: Beaker and Flask

Hard to believe it's been so long since I've written up a restaurant visit. Of course it's also hard to believe the C-boy is four months old. Even harder to believe that last night was the first time we went out without him. Talk about needing to get our freaking lives in order! So last night, to celebrate the onset of babysitting and our anniversary, w and I made a beeline to the much-missed Beaker and Flask here in PDX. If you're a parent you'll get this, and if you're not you'll think "dude, that is SO pathetic", but walking in to B&F without having to worry about a possible baby meltdown was so nice. Sitting at the bar, where we used to love to sit pre-baby..."sniff-sniff"...was also pretty damn nice. Greeted most warmly by owner Kevin Ludwig, we couldn't wait to get our night started. A glass of prosecco was quickly ordered for w, and I told our bartender Michael Shea to make me anything he wanted to as long as it contained a healthy dose of gin. When you have the caliber of mix-masters behind the bar that Ludwig does, I'm always happy to put myself in their spirit soaked hands. I always know at B&F, where cocktails are taken with the proper seriousness, that I would be drinking well, and when I saw the beautifully delicious looking Bronx cocktail (upper left) set down gently in front of me I was not disappointed. The Bronx is a classic from the very old school. I've made them at home and love them. So with that important task taken care of, we checked out the menu and as always were impressed with the number of dishes that sounded so good.

Decisions had to made, so we settled on starters of the Grilled Pork Tongue (left) with asparagus and green garlic cream; Fried Baby Eel with smoked paprika aioli; and the Cabbage Roll with mushrooms, caramelized onions, lentil salad, and mustard. The restaurant wasn't too full so the dishes came out quickly, which was a good thing as the gin was already grabbing my head. All three were standout. The pork tongue was fabulous. I'm not a big tongue guy, having been frightened by the disturbingly hulking cow tongues I used to see wrapped in cellophane in too many meat markets. The B&F versions alleviated any squeamishness and was super tender with a nice meaty texture, and the perfectly crunchy-tender asparagus and sensuously silky garlic cream were a perfect match. The fried baby eel was basically a fried calamari-like plate with the more fishy eel in place of squid. Very good, but it's assertive taste may not be for everyone. w was not as into it as I was. Then there is the cabbage roll (below left). "Cabbage roll". For something that sounds so humble, this was an incredible creation. Looking like a greenish pudding set atop lentils, the cabbage as stuffed with mushrooms and onions and provided an earthy, richly flavored mouthful with every bite. The lentils had the just right bite, and the whole dish was held together by a light application of mustard mixed around the edges. A great beginning, and if you find yourself at B&F anytime soon, the cabbage and pork tongue are must have apps!

Kevin popped the cork on a bottle of 2005 Brick House Gamay Noir from my basement I brought along to have with dinner, and while we delighted in each rich sip we pondered main dishes to come. w has a hard time passing up razor clams, so her choice was made by the Fried Razor Clams with potatoes, octopus, candied orange peel, and aioli. I was torn between pork and fish, but since I've been on a bit of a meat binge at home lately I decided that the Pan Seared Halibut with carrot purée, English peas, radish, bay shrimp, and sweet herb crème fraîche. Sound good? FYI, the word to describe my plate of fish was "freakish". Each bite provided an "Oh my god" moment. Uber-seasonal, the sweet carrot puree and English peas were amazing, then to add in shrimp and the herb crème fraîche sent this off to a wonderland of sensory overload. I don't eat too many truly inspired plates of food. This was one of them! I am always impressed with chef Ben Bettinger's witchcraft in the B&F kitchen. This only confirmed that this guys skill set is right at the top of the PDX heap. And of course w's razor clams, which came stacked in most generous portion, were also excellent. Lightly battered and fried to a toothsome bite ("toothsome"...how very 1960's of me), a smear of aioli on top (ask for an extra side of aioli...you'll want it) with seasoned spuds and bits of baby octopus to make sure you aren't cheated in the flavor department, which isn't ever a problem at B&F. BTW-no pics of mains. Dark light and all we had was our iPhones.

Being very full and getting sleepy...our perpetual post-10pm state these days...we blamed out by not ordering dessert, and on the way home I was already kicking myself for not ordering the Panna Cotta with beignets and huckleberry sauce. But whose life isn't lived with some regret? In any event, this was another evening well spent. We were reminiscing with Kevin about how two years ago while he jumping through his endless series of hoops trying to get B&F open, that he actually bartended at our wedding (and don't think that wasn't off the hook!) and we were shaking our heads at how much all of our lives had changed. Us with a sweet new baby, and Kevin having a one-year old of his own in Beaker and Flask. Both things trying and rewarding at the same time. now he's running a successful restaurant, getting national press (the latest two mentions in the new issue of Food & Wine), exceeding everyone's expectations (except I'm sure his own) and having what I consider one of the top 4 or 5 dining experiences in town!

PDX Quick Bites: Beaker & Flask

When is a bar not a bar? That thought wandered across my mind as w and I were sitting in Beaker & Flask a couple of nights ago in the midst of what was turning into one of the most satisfying dinners we'd had in a long time. The reason for that musing was when B&F was getting started, the buzz around town was that bartending savant Kevin Ludwig was finally fulfilling his dream of opening his own place, and won't it be a cool place to grab a drink or three? That sort of chatter only increased as he pilfered (and I use that term with all due respect for the talent behind the bar) some of the best mixologists from across the city to work with him. "Oh, and he's going to have food? Yeah great, but only to soak up those killer drinks, I'm sure." I was right in there, fully expecting some creative intoxicants to come spilling across the bar, but not imagining the food would be that much of a wow factor. And the cocktails uphold their end. Pictured at left is my Dock Ellis, a heart warming blend of rye whiskey, limoncello, Dolin Blanc vermouth, Cynar, and bitters (not quite as mind bending as the inspiration for the drink's name, ex-big league pitcher Dock Ellis whose biggest claim to fame is supposedly having pitched a no hitter for the Pittsburgh Pirates while peaking on LSD). Well, after last Tuesday's dinner my preconceived notions about the menu have been tossed aside like a poorly made negroni.
Turns out this guy Ben Bettinger who Kevin hired to run the kitchen is doing some creative magic of his own back in their open kitchen, at least equaling the stellar drinks that are being shaken and stirred behind the bar. Not only excellent food at outstanding prices, but generous portions on their app menu to boot. Case in point on the new menu are the Grilled Pork Cheeks (pictured above) with braised peppers, pickled octopus, and aioli which Kevin strongly suggested ordering when he and I were talking before w made her grand entrance. Not ones to ignore insider information we of course ordered it, and it did not disappoint. Perfectly grilled fork-tender pork cheeks, a much underutilized part of this remarkably delicious animal, the B&F version was piled with lightly sautéed peppers and succulent octopus, with a slash of aioli drizzled across the top. The whole was served atop a crispy piece of rustic toast, and it was fabulous. A dish worth developing a serious craving for, and a portion that would easily work as an entrée. All for a meager $9! Since we were sharing a main course, we also ordered the Fried Razor Clams ($10) with beets, frisée, and horseradish cream; and the Grilled Romaine ($7) with salsa verde and smoked feta. Again the razor clam was an eye popping portion, with a light breading, fried to a crispy golden brown, and blessedly tender as there are so many leather tough versions to be had out there. The grilled romaine salad was excellent, the piquant salsa verde dressing complimenting the slight char from the grill and the smoky feta. Really a great start (especially with a mug of hop-a-licious 60 Minute IPA from Dogfish Brewery. With all the genius cocktails to ponder, they've also got some great beers frothing out of the taps), and we giving each other that "Wow, this is some seriously good stuff" look.

Then along came our entrée, a very lovely to look at, delightful to eat Pan Seared Black Cod with mussels, chorizo, fennel, and green beans. A simple plate like this is surprisingly one of seemingly easiest things for a kitchen to screw up. Is the fish seasoned too much? Is it dry? Too much sauce? Apparently Chef Bettinger hadn't heard about those concerns, because his presentation was absolutely spot on! w declared the cod perfectly cooked, and we loved its salty, crispy skin. Still so very moist and fresh like it came swimming out onto my plate, with the surround of mussels, chorizo, and veggies providing an inspired textural contrast. In other words our mouths were loving this! I washed it down with a glass of J. Christopher "Croft Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc which is not only the best sauv blanc made in America, but a ridiculously food friendly white.

This was followed not by dessert but an unctuous glass of Bas Armagnac cognac, yet another reason to respect the French and their liqurious ways. I really like the B&F space, brightly lit (at certain times of the early evening a bit too), very comfortable open space. The bar stools are some of the most butt worthy spots to park it in town, and the service is always friendly. With Kevin providing direction and his crew whipping out the goods behind the bar, and Bettinger obviously showing some serious chops in the kitchen, Beaker & Flask is a great, near-bargain priced night out. Put it on your "get there soon" list!

Quick Bites PDX: Beaker and Flask

What you see at the left is almost reason enough to be celebrating the opening of Beaker and Flask, Kevin Ludwig's long awaited labor of love that has been in the works for almost two years. In any event, it is here, we were at the opening night Thursday, and the Coltrane! Coltrane! Coltrane! cocktail (a perfect blend of Gin, Amer Picon, Peach, Lemon Bitters) pictured was the perfect way to settle in what immediately has vaulted to the top of my favorite PDX bar list. The place was rocking, but Kevin has put together the New York Yankees of bartenders with Tim Davey (pouring with intense concentration my Coltrane! at right) and Lance Mayhew helping to swing the heavy lumber behind the bar.

This is a great space, open, with light on this summer evening streaming in through the wraparound windows along the west wall. The very attractive concrete topped bar, with extremely comfortable bar stools, is the spot to hang so you can watch these pros work. The opening night crowd was like a who's who of Portland's micro distilling scene, and everyone was having a great time. Kevin has a rep like no one else, and the vibe in the room was a celebration of all things well-made and alcoholic. w and I indulged in some great treats off of the limited opening night menu, and even with the slam, the kitchen kept up and was plating up some seriously delicious gastrobar food. If it is this good on opening night, then we have a ton to look forward to! Here's some pictorial highlights....

That is our starter of sand dabs on the left, and w's plate of scallops with aioli, fennel, and a slice of bacon on the right. I had an excellent pork belly with clams: the ultimate surf and turf?

Kevin working it at the bar with Lance giving him some form of
encouragement that is best left unsaid!
bar fly's