In today's Sunday NYT, the magazine is featuring their annual Food Issue, a must buy/read for any die-hard food obsessive. Among the articles is a piece by Christine Muhlke on the one-of-a-kind NY restaurant Shopsin's General Store, where owner Kenny Shopsin is almost as likely to throw you out as to throw you down a plate of his macaroni-and-cheese pancakes (there's a recipe attached for this unholy marriage of breakfast and dinner, and if you think I'm not making them ASAP you would be sadly mistaken!), with no extra charge for a side of expletives. But my favorite part of the article is the opening paragraph, where I LOVE this quote:
AS THE LEGENDARY bon vivant Ludwig Bemelmans once noted of restaurateurs: “The most strenuous customer-versus-proprietor battles occur in the smart restaurants of Paris and New York. This kind of restaurant, as a rule, is small. It is benefited by a certain type of guest and injured by another, and the latter must be discouraged from coming. In a man confronted daily with the task of separating the wanted from the unwanted, a degree of arrogance is indispensable.”
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