Heavenly Halibut!

I've always been one of those people who say, "I really need to eat more fish." The problem is, one look at that meaty, bloody red rib eye in my butcher's case, or a fleeting thought of bacon-cheeseburgers, and I'm running out to the grill, hunk of meat in hand, all too ready to succumb to millenia of evolution. But last night, more because of the rain that was steadily falling here rather than any will to actually improve my diet, I grabbed a couple of halibut filets from the meat case at our market, which were fortunately located far enough away from the steaks so I could ignore their siren call.

Since grilling wasn't an option as I didn't want to schlep the Weber up to the covered part of our porch, I checked online for inspiration, and came across what seemed to be a perfectly delicious, seasonal halibut preparation at epicurious. Cooked in my big sauté pan, which is always a bonus, because since I'm not a "power tool guy" I get my fix from heavy cookware. Anyway, to cut to the chase, this was a super simple recipe that has instantly found a place in our regular repertoire. Throw a couple pieces of this halibut on your plates with some rainbow chard or other greens, a scoop of rice, and in less than 30 minutes start to finish you'll have yet another silly smile on your face!

Oh, and as for drinking material, we had a super chilled bottle of 2005 Loimer Gruner-Veltliner, a fresh, dry, crisp, vibrant white from Austria that was the total deal with the fish, matching up perfectly to the sweet cherry tomatoes and savory olive flavors in the sauce. Okay, now you're set...the rest is up to you!

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Halibut With Capers, Olives, And Tomatoes
Serve the fish and sauce over rice or couscous

ingredients:
4 6- to 7-ounce halibut fillets
All purpose flour
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 large shallots, chopped
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
2 cups cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil, divided
1 tablespoon drained capers
1/3 cup bottled clam juice
1/4 cup dry white wine

Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add fish and sauté until lightly browned and just opaque in center, about 3 to 3-1/2 minutes per side. Transfer fish to platter. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same skillet. Add shallots and crushed red pepper; sauté 1 minute. Mix in tomatoes, olives, 1/4 cup basil, and capers. Add clam juice and wine. Boil until sauce thickens slightly, about 2-3 minutes. Mix in 1/4 cup basil. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over fish.

Makes 4 servings.
Adapted from Bon Appetit

'Tis the Season!

Wines above (r to l): '06 J. Christopher "Christo Irresisto" (Oregon); '06 Conte di Buscareto Marche Rosato (Italy); '06 Provenza Chioretto (Italy); '06 Domaine Sorin "Terra Amata" Cotes de Provence (France); '06 Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d'Aix en Provence (France)

You know when the New York Times wrote a feature article on them last summer, their time had come. Once derided, many times with cause, as sickly sweet bottles of luridly pink white "zinfandel", today the dry, crisp rosés from France and Italy, and in certain cases America, have now taken their rightful, delicious place among the must drink wines for spring and summer enjoyment.

I've been pimping these wines hard for the past five years here at the wine shack, and each year I've seen sales zooming. Nothing satisfies on a warm afternoon and evening like rosé. Dry, refreshing, bright, with the best having a bracing backbone of acidity, these are essential wines for the summer table. With more body than white wines (they are made from red wine grapes that are pressed and then have the juice taken off the skins before too much pigment colors the wine), these are remarkable food friendly, and with most things off the grill are perfect matches. I'll gladly slurp these down with 'qued burgers, chicken, and sausages. They are perfect foils for garlic-rosemary grilled shrimp (recipe follows) and most other seafood. And best of all they are eminently affordable. All five wines pictured come in at under $14 a pop! The picture above shows a few of my current favorites. If they aren't available where you live, try some others. You've gotta join the club. And guys, don't be afraid, because real men can drink pink!

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GRILLED ROSEMARY GARLIC SHRIMP
1/4 cup finely chopped garlic, mashed to a paste with 1 teaspoon coarse salt
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves plus sprigs for garnish
3 tablespoons olive oil plus oil for brushing shrimp
16 jumbo shrimp (about 10 per pound)
four 12-inch bamboo skewers
lemon wedges as an accompaniment

In a large bowl stir together garlic, minced rosemary, and 3 tablespoons oil and add shrimp. Marinate shrimp, covered and chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.

In a shallow dish soak skewers in water to cover 30 minutes and prepare grill.

To grill, thread 4 shrimp on each skewer and brush with additional oil. Grill shrimp on an oiled rack, set about 5 inches over glowing coals, 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through.

Alternatively, brush shrimp with additional oil and grill in a hot well-season ridged grill pan, covered, over moderately high heat 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cooked through.

Garnish shrimp with rosemary sprigs and serve with lemon wedges.