DOC...or D.O.A.?

There's two reasons I've been hesitating to write this post. One, I've had two restaurants before, so I have sympathy for how hard it is to make it. Two, I've tended to only write up good experiences, not bothering to mention the less than stellar meals I've had around town. But after a recent experience at Portland's relatively new DOC, I think I'm changing my approach for two more reasons. One, I've had two successful restaurants, so I know how easy it is with the proper commitment and care to put out quality food. Two, I would hate to think of anyone, especially in these troubled economic times, spending a not insubstantial amount of money (as we did at DOC) and have a less than satisfactory experience.

I went there recently with four other friends. We are all very good cooks, eat out way more than is probably fiscally or physically responsible, and bring relatively informed palates to the table (one of us is one of Portland's most respected current chefs). I like walking into DOC, where unusually and I think interestingly you walk through the kitchen into their charming little dining area just beyond. We opted for their five course tasting menu (for $50 each), thinking this would be the best way to taste the full range that the kitchen has to offer. We ordered a couple of bottles of wine off of their well chosen list to complement the two we had brought along feeling good about the night ahead. Unfortunately those feelings didn't last long. From the salad starters through to the desserts, there was maybe two bright spots. The salads in general were uninspired, lacking any real distinction. The risotto that came as a primi course totally lacked the creaminess that you would normally expect from a properly made version. Like they put it on the stove and didn't bother to stir it at all. The other primi of gnocchi was overdone and heavy, with a too sweet sauce that was also evident in one of our entrées. Both seemed the result of having too many things going on in one dish. A classic example...like the troubling bacon infused bourbon at Belly Timber...of just because you can do it doesn't mean you should. The final nail in dinner coffin was one of two desserts we had, supposedly a Yogurt Panna Cotta on a Huckleberry Reduction. Picture a plate of huckleberries in their juice, which were fine, but instead of a jiggly, somewhat geometrically shaped cylinder or square of panna cotta one would expect, apparently the pastry chef, and by extension head chef Greg Perrault who stands right next to him, was content to just spoon liquid yogurt over the top of the berries and send that mess out. And not one, but two servings...incredible!! If your panna cotta didn't set up, don't send it out like your customers don't know any better. And if it is the pastry chef who doesn't know any better...or worse, doesn't care....then get a new pastry chef. I mentioned it to our waiter who didn't seem too concerned but did offer to have something else made, but by then all confidence in the kitchen was shattered and we just wanted to leave.

So we did, feeling like we had just wasted $90 each (including tip). I've heard similar stories from other friends (again, people who would know what's good and what isn't). With so many other reasonable, reliable places to choose from (and if you want an incredible tasting menu check out Park Kitchen), it seems DOC needs someone to right the ship that is apparently veering way off course.

The Park Kitchen Pleasure Principle

Sorry for the posting drought. It's not my fault. I've been out of commission for a few days digesting this awesome meal we had at Park Kitchen, chef/owner Scott Dolich's playhouse of all things insanely delicious. w and I met our friends J&K there last Saturday and as always, it was a thrill-a-bite meal. Every time I'm there I am amazed at what Dolich does with flavor combinations. Now I can hack my way through a few pretty good dinners for my friends, but what separates me from those who really have the knowledge is putting ingredients together that to my naïve and unimaginative mind would never even see each other on the same plate.

Case in point is one of his current small hot plates (the menu is divided into small hot plates, small cold plates, and large plates), a fabulous poached duck egg perched on top of a trumpet mushroom sugo, beautifully presented and sensationally delicious. Or off the small cold plates list a mouthwatering salad of asparagus, belgian endive, and whole anchovies that was so fresh, bright, and clean that each bite was like the first bite. Also not to be missed are his flank steak "salad" with blue cheese, parsley, and sherried onions and the baked oysters with spinach and pernod, the oysters maintaining their fresh, briny oceany flavor enhanced by the pernod tang.

For large plates we had an awesome SuDan farms lamb with goat cheese croquettes that was so rich and so good I was swooning. We also had their sliced duck with a Chinese turnip cake and mushrooms braised in red wine...fantastic. Again it seems everything Scott puts down works at least 90% of the time, which when you're performing this culinary high wire act and pushing boundaries like he does is a pretty good average. Finally the desserts were also more than acceptable finishing touches, although the Meyer lemon pudding could have had more of a citrus punch. Like I said, 90% of the time they absolutely nail it. In the end we all walked out more than satisfied, knowing we ate at one of this cities best restaurants....hell, any cities....best restaurants.
eat.drink.think. rating: ***1/2 (out of four)

Note: Also not to be missed is Park Kitchen's tasting menu, which is a great way to go for four+ people. You get an unforgettable tour of their menu that will hit your palate with so may pleasurable tastes your head will be swimming!

photo from singleguychef

Portland food rants, plus a crackback from Seattle

Our local fishwrap, The Oregonian, every year puts out their local restaurant guide. This year's issue came out this morning, and the local foodie scene will be buzzing. This years winner is Chef Andy Ricker's Thai food shack/restaurant Pok Pok..or Whisky Soda Lounge depending on your preference. Both names get you some of the best Thai-style street food on the west coast. Very deserved, and if you like explosive flavors, this is the place. Although I do have to say we were there last week when they rolled out their new menu, and it was slightly flat. Hopefully a one night aberration.

Best ironic moment from the Oregonian Diner guide: Gabriel Rucker, indie chef of the moment whose restaurant Le Pigeon is one of my personal favorite spots to get my grub on and my pick for Best of the Year, and who has never met a stick of butter or piece of offal he didn't want throw on a plate, was named by the paper Rising Star of the Year 2007. Very flattering I'm sure, but his picture on the cover of the new Food and Wine Magazine has gotta carry a little more juice and I'm guessing will be the one in the frame on the wall.

More Food and Wine Mag: Ex-local wunderkind chef/train wreck Michael Hebberoy, who drove Gotham Tavern/Ripe/Clarklewis and his marriage off a cliff before high tailing it to Seattle has an article about the the indie restaurant/food scene in Seattle in the new F&W issue. Local PDX chefs (along with any number of winemakers) like Greg Higgins of Higgins, Scott Dolich of Park Kitchen, and Kevin Gibson of Castagna, who could cook MH 's ass under the prep table any time, must have loved his parting crackback on his Portland experience: "What I loved about Portland was the unabashed amateurism. The farmers were learning how to farm, the winemakers learning how to ferment, the cooks learning how to cook (many chefs even lying about their pedigrees and staying up late to work on their supposed three-star skills)." This from a guy who left a trail of lawsuits blowing in the wind as he drove out of town after his own restaurants imploded. Hey, no sense looking in the mirror, right M?
*thanks to Portland Food and Drink for the heads up on the Hebberoy story