Cellar report: 1998 Roger Sabon Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Olivets"

This is what I'm talking about! I mean, what's the point of having all that bottled grape-juice-for-adults in the basement if you don't pull something up that knocks not only your socks off, but those lucky friends who get to share? Such was the case last night when we had friends over for a perfectly grilled leg of lamb, crusty outside with a rosemary, garlic, thyme and olive oil marinade (in fact, check back for the next three days and I'll lay out a whole dinner party that will absolutely rock your dinner tables!). It had finally cooled off enough outside to get my head around some red wine, I was in a Rhone-ish mood and I knew we needed something intense, but not so over the top that it kills the lamb. The lamb was a pretty straightforward preparation, so a little subtlety and finesse within the intensity was the ticket. I'd had this bottle of 1998 Roger Sabon Chateauneuf du Pape resting comfortably downstairs for years, and I always loves me some Rhone Valley goodness, so the time seemed right.

I'll start at the end of the bottle, because as happens so often, just when you get to the last drops is when the wine is showing its best. Although up to that moment it was tasting pretty fucking amazing. I ideally should have decanted it about 30-45 minutes ahead of time. A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, and 10% cinsault off of 65+ year old vines, this was a classic. Great, still youthful color when poured, aromas of cherry, earth, meat, stones, spring blossoms, and spice rolled out of the glass. Once again I am just amazed at how many different flavors and sensations that a few little grapes can give. On the palate it was full, with all those aromas echoed and intensified. Really rich and ripe, with still young tannins carrying this super complete red on through to a delicious, lingering finish. Awesome, crazy juice. And then over the next 45 minutes it just got better....and better...and better. I love my friends, but it was all I could do not to grab the decanter, dump the rest in my glass and yell "It's all mine, dammit!!" But sharing is caring, there was much lamby meatiness to get through, and besides we had plenty of other social lubricant on hand, so a crass display of self-absorption would be a bit unseemly, don't ya think? A great bottle, and the 1998 Chateauneufs seem to be just coming into their own right now, and this gem could easily have another 5-10 years in it. Sadly it was my last bottle of Sabon (sigh)...............

The Sabon cellars (photo from http://www.chateauneuf.dk/en/cdpen55.htm)

Myth Busting Marinade!

This is the myth-busters episode of eat.drink.think since I just read a very enlightening article...this one (click here)... By Andreas Viestad on the Washington Post website. You know all those recipes that tell you to marinate your steak or other piece of beef for an hour or so, sometimes all night? Well, forget it! Apparently it has been proven that you get the same effect marinating beef for four seconds as for four hours. Look at all the time you just saved by reading today's post!! You can spend those bonus hours reading more food blogs, more cookbooks, or if you're really desperate, spending time with your family! I won't explain all the details, because Andreas does it better in his article. It makes for very interesting reading, though, so take a look!

Here's Andreas' recipe for a red wine marinade with herbed olive oil. There's also a great recipe for marinated grilled steak. Check it out, and enjoy all that free time!
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Red Wine Marinade and Herbed Oil
from Gastronomer columnist Andreas Viestad

This is a fat-free, full-flavored marinade. Instead of adding oil, Gastronomer columnist Andreas Viestad makes a separate herb-infused oil (using the same spices found in the marinade) that he combines with a bit of the marinade for a post-grilling application to the meat.

For a more intense red wine flavor, boil 1 cup of wine over high heat until it has reduced to about 1/4 cup, then combine it with 1/4 cup (uncooked) red wine to make the 1/2 cup of red wine used in the marinade.

By combining a little herbed oil with a bit of the marinade and applying the mixture to the steak after it has been grilled (see related recipe in Recipe Finder), you will get fresh herb flavors and aromas, the fragile compounds that normally get lost with cooking.

It's best to make the red wine marinade and herbed oil the same day they are to be used.

Makes about 2/3 cup marinade and 4 tablespoons herbed oil

ingredients:
For the marinade
1/2 cup red wine, preferably 1/4 cup red wine reduction and 1/4 cup red wine; see headnote)
1 to 3 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion or shallot
2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 to 2 teaspoon bruised or chopped thyme leaves
1 bay leaf, crushed
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
1 tablespoon brandy (optional)
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard (optional)

For the herbed oil
Handful various herbs, such as parsley, thyme and (a little) sage
1 medium clove garlic (optional)
1/4 cup olive or sunflower oil
2 to 3 tablespoons Red Wine Marinade (optional; see headnote)

method:
For the marinade: Combine the red wine, garlic to taste, onion or shallot, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, soy sauce and black pepper, and the sugar, brandy or mustard, if desired, in a large resealable plastic food storage bag. Taste and adjust seasoning. (If making the herbed oil, reserve 2 to 3 tablespoons of the marinade in a separate bowl before the marinade is used for the meat.)

For the herbed oil: Use a mortar and pestle to gently crush the herbs and garlic (if using) together. Add the oil and crush together for a few seconds to release flavor. Add the reserved red wine marinade, if using.