The Holy Trinity: fast, easy, & delicious!

You've heard that old saying "With great effort comes great reward"? Well, sometimes, especially when it comes to cooking, great effort is just great effort. Who among us hasn't spent a few hours prepping and cooking what should have a stupendous eating experience, only to go "that's it?" Man, I hate that. And I'm know Mr. Great Effort guy wouldn't have been happy with this amazingly satisfying cod dish I made the other night (especially paired with the cucumber salad featured in yesterday's post). His loss.

Cod is one of those unheralded white fishes that I almost never think about. Cod is kind of like the turkey of the sea, because like turkey this mild flavored fish it's just a vehicle for whatever you happen to season and slather it with. I grabbed a little over a pound of wonderfully fresh cod fillet on sale at our local organic market (couldn't beat the sale price of $5.99/lb) and started looking through cookbooks and online for something new. Once again epicurious provided the inspiration in the form of this recipe from Bon Appetit. Got great reviews, loved the ingredient list and ease of prep, so I was in. I made the cuke salad first, and while that was melding in the fridge I did the quick work of whipping this together with a couple of adjustments. When it all came together on the table both w and I were pretty wowed. The hoisin-sambal sauce slathered on top provided this sweet-hot flavor that was countered by the impact of the ginger sauce that gets spooned around the cod. Really interesting, full, complex flavors that rocket around your mouth, and the cooling cucumber salad was the perfect side. Make sure you have some basmati rice on the table, too. This was definitely "company worthy" eating and if you're ever pressed for time but still want to impress, this should be a go-to!
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Cod with Hoisin and Ginger Sauces
adapted from epicurious/Bon Appetit

serves 4

ingredients:
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped green onions
1 tablespoon honey
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup hoisin sauce*
2 1/4 teaspoons hot chili paste (such as sambal oelek)*
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 7-ounce cod fillets
Steamed rice

method:
Whisk first 6 ingredients in small bowl. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring ginger sauce to room temperature before serving.)
Preheat oven to 450°F. Stir hoisin and chili paste in another small bowl. Heat oil in heavy large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add cod, skin side up. Cook 2 minutes, then turn cod over. Spoon hoisin mixture over fillets, dividing equally. Transfer to oven and bake until fish is just opaque in center, about 5 minutes. Place 1 fillet in each of 4 shallow soup bowls. Spoon ginger sauce around fish and serve with steamed rice.

note: it really helps when turning and removing the cod fillets to have a fish spatula, as they're a pretty delicate piece of fish.- bb

Smart food: Pistachio-crusted Halibut with spicy yogurt sauce

It's funny how one's priorities and eating habits change when you're expecting a kid. Suddenly my natural inclination for bacon-cheeseburgers and tater tots has to take a back seat to the idea that when you are in your 3rd trimester of pregnancy the developmental benefits of fish are somehow greater than the benefits, both spiritually and developmentally, of cured pork products (personally I'm waiting more scientific research on this subject). Supposedly those fishy omega-3's lead to greater brain development. Hey, if w eating a piece of fish now leads junior later in life to better analyze and explain the differences and merits of bone-in versus boneless rib eye steaks, then I have to get with that parenting program. Besides, we'll have plenty of time to share bacon in the future!!
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Pistachio-crusted Halibut with spicy yogurt sauce
adapted from epicurious
serves 4

This was delicious and incredibly easy and fast to put together. A great last minute meal. Make sure the skillet is fully heated before putting fish in to help prevent sticking.- bb

ingredients:
for halibut:
4 (1 1/4-inch-thick) pieces skinless halibut fillet (about 6 ounces each)
1 cup whole milk
1/3 cup shelled pistachios, finely chopped
3 tablespoons cornmeal
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

for spicy yogurt sauce:
1 cup thick Greek yogurt (8 ounces)
1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely diced (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried chili pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

method:
Put fish in a shallow baking dish, pour milk over it, and chill, covered, turning over once, 30 minutes. Meanwhile, stir together pistachios and cornmeal in a shallow bowl.

Remove fish from milk, letting excess drip off. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper, then dredge lightly in cornmeal-pistachio mixture. Transfer to a clean plate as coated.

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté fish, turning over once, until golden and just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes total.

While fish cooks, stir together all ingredients for spicy yogurt.

Serve fish with spicy yogurt on the side.

Could I get a new belief system to go with that rotisserie chicken, please?

I have to not so humbly say that I make the best roast chicken I have ever tasted. As such I also don't buy pre-made rotisserie chickens from the store. But late yesterday afternoon after stumbling around the house in a daze from this pain-in-the-ass cold that has had my head in a fog for the last three days, I was half-heartedly leafing through the latest issue of Food and Wine when I noticed this recipe for Chinese chicken salad that called for a 2-1/2 pounds of rotisserie chicken. As good as this recipe looked, roasting my own chicken was about the last thing I was going to drag my ass off the couch to do. So breaking with long held tradition and shattering my personal belief system, I drove to the local QFC where I know they always have a hot case filled with roasted chickens that have been there god knows how long. The girl behind the counter assured me that they make them fresh each day, and these had come off the spit about 45 minutes ago. She seemed too apathetic about her job to worry about lying to me, so with great trepidation I bought the "French Classic" chicken (eschewing the "Traditional Italian" and "Teriyaki Treat" versions). $5.99...on sale...for a whole chicken. That makes up for a lot of shattered belief system. So I took it home, tore it up, whipped this salad together for w and I, and I have to...and hate to....say I may be a convert to the ease of the rotisserie for times when I just need some roast chicken for salads or enchiladas or whatever. I already feel like I'm on a slippery slope down the side of Mt. Easy Prep with this one chicken purchase. But did I mention it was only $5.99??!!

Oh, and the salad was damn good, too. Both w and I were loving its sweetly piquant dressing and the crunch of the veggies, not to mention the, uh, roast chicken. I took recipe author Joanne Chang's and added Napa cabbage, carrots, and cucumber for added texture, which really made it snap. Quick, easy, and delicious...three of my fave descriptors...this has already found a place in our regular rotation.
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Chinese Chicken Salad
adapted from Joanne Chang/Food & Wine Magazine

ingredients:
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
3 tablespoons plus 1-1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon Tabasco
one 1/2" piece of ginger, peeled and minced
one small garlic clove, peeled and minced
one 2-1/2 pound rostisserie chicken, meat shredded and skin and bones saved for stock or discarded
3 scallions, thinly sliced
2 celery ribs, thinly sliced
1 cup salted (or unsalted) roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup chopped cilantro
1 carrot, cut into 2" matchsticks
1/2 cup thinly sliced cucumber
one small head of romaine lettuce, sliced crossise into 1/2" ribbons
2 cups napa cabbage, sliced crosswise into ribbons
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
lime wedges, for serving

method:
1- In a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with 1/4 cup of the vinegar, 3 tablespoons of the sugar and the soy sauce, sesame oil, Tabasco, ginger, and garlic. Add the chicken, scallions, celery, peanuts, cilantro, carrot, and cucumber and toss until coated.

2- In another bowl toss the romaine, cabbage, carrots, and cucumber with the remaining 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 1-1/2 teaspoons sugar, and the olive oil. Spread romaine/cabbage onto four plates and top with the chicken salad. Serve with lime wedges.

It may not be twinkies and bacon, but it's pretty damn good!

I know you all wanted to see the Bacon Twinkie Stonehenge recipe here today from the post below. Not only don't I have it, I wouldn't give it to you if I did. You think I don't care about you? Well, I do. I also care about all those pigs who gave their all to become what every pig dreams of (when they're not dreaming of becoming this), a nicely cooked piece of bacon, and preferably one not wrapped around a fucking Twinkie.

So, even if you don't know what's good for you, I do, and the recipe below while devoid of pork fat will definitely satisfy you in so many other ways. Plus it is guaranteed not to cause your heart to explode. Your stomach maybe, 'cause you won't be able to stop eating it! In fact, I would hazard a guess that this is one of healthiest and tastiest fish dishes you'll ever cook. And it is so fast, it makes a perfect last minute dinner. Once you have all the ingredients, you can do this start to finish in 20 minutes easy, including the roasted asparagus (asparagus recipe tomorrow...not that you need it it's so simple). You could also sub cod or any other firm white fish. I posted this halibut dish a couple of years ago, forgot about it until w mentioned it a couple of days ago, and since E.D.T. has thousands of new appetites to satisfy, it's time to share the love again!
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Halibut With Capers, Olives, And Tomatoes
from Bon Appetit
makes 4 servings.

ingredients:
4 6- to 7-ounce halibut fillets
All purpose flour
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 large shallots, chopped
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
2 cups cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil, divided
1 tablespoon drained capers
1/3 cup bottled clam juice
1/4 cup dry white wine

method:
Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add fish and sauté until lightly browned and just opaque in center, about 3 to 3-1/2 minutes per side. Transfer fish to platter. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same skillet. Add shallots and crushed red pepper; sauté 1 minute. Mix in tomatoes, olives, 1/4 cup basil, and capers. Add clam juice and wine. Boil until sauce thickens slightly, about 2-3 minutes. Mix in 1/4 cup basil. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over fish.

Pasta With White Sausage Sauce...how so few can give so much!

We had this super simple, light yet really satisfying pasta the other night that really drives home the point that a few well placed ingredients can combine to produce something really special. I saw it on Mark Bittman's bittenblog at the NYT site. It defines his whole minimalsit ethos. I added some baby spinach to the recipe because it seemed it needed a little extra lift, and it worked perfectly. Arugula would also give it a nice peppery lift. If you ever want to make something quick that I promise the whole family will get with, this is it!

Sorry about the lame-ass photo. I was so hungry that night I just kind of dumped and shot!
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Pasta With White Sausage Sauce
adapted from Mark Bittman/ The New York Times
yield 4 servings
time 20 minutes

Mark Bittman's summary: "You can make this sauce stronger or more complex by adding a touch of minced garlic to the butter as it melts, or by using wine -- especially red wine -- as the liquid." (I used red wine and it was perfect! I was worried it might be too "winey", but it combined beautifully. -bb)

ingredients:
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage (if using link sausage, remove it from the casing)
1/2 cup water, white wine or red wine
1 pound cut pasta like ziti
2 cups fresh baby spinach, washed and drained
1/2 cup or more freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

method:
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

2. Put the butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. As it melts, crumble the sausage meat into it, making the bits quite small, 1/2 inch or less. Add the liquid, and adjust the heat so that the mixture simmers gently.

3. Cook the pasta until it is tender but not at all mushy. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.

4. Drain the pasta, and dress with the sauce, adding a little of the reserved cooking liquid if necessary. Toss with spinach, salt, pepper and Parmesan, and serve. Variations: There are a couple of ways you can make this sauce stronger or more complex. A touch of minced garlic added to the butter as it melts helps a lot. A handful of parsley thrown in at the last minute contributes freshness and color. Another interesting twist is to use wine — especially red wine — as the liquid. The wine's astringency perfectly offsets the sweet richness of butter and meat.

Cook's note: Bittman called for ziti pasta. I would use regular penne rigate or farfalle instead the next time. The ziti's smooth surface did nothing to hold the light sauce.

Averting Meat Madness

Had enough turkey yet from the Thanksgiving throwdown? Maybe need a little protein break? Yeah, me neither! In fact I was just looking up recipes for this 5# hunk 'o pork shoulder that's calling my name. Like pork products are ever bad! But just in case OD'ing on meat may be your current state, relief is at hand. I have to share this recipe from the NYT's Health writer Martha Rose Shulman. I've found her stuff to be ever reliable (her caponata recipe is spectacular), and a few days ago, for a pre-Thanksgiving, post-standing rib roast dinner feast we had with friends, w was begging for something, anything, that was made from ingredients that weren't walking the earth, waiting their turn in my Le Creuset. I, like every other right minded eater, loves me some good butternut squash soup. It is one of the reasons that cold weather was invented, if I'm not mistaken. This version is awesome, with a nice added richness from the sweet potatoes and a health inducing, head snapping bite from the ginger (I bumped up her recommended dose of ginger by half). Silky textured after a spin in the blender, rich and creamy, you would never guess this has no cream or butter. Plus, this is one of the easiest soups you'll ever make, and it is vegetarian friendly. It coud also be made vegan friendly (Like I care. Vegans...don't you just want to wrestle their emaciated, protein deprived bodies down and stuff bacon into their mouths and watch their eyes do a guilty swoon of pleasure?!) if you use veggie stock.
I opened the newly released 2007 Patricia Green Cellars Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon, whose freshness and bright acidity played very nicely with the richness of the soup. By the way, 2007 was a great vintage for Oregon white wines. The best have beautifully ripe fruit paired perfectly with high acids from the cooler than usual growing season.
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Sweet Potato and Butternut Squash Soup
from the New York Times/Martha Rose Shulman

ingredients:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 pound butternut squash, peeled and diced
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
1 medium-size Yukon gold or russet potato, peeled and diced
6 cups chicken stock, or vegetable stock
Salt to taste

method:
1. Heat the oil in a heavy soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and stir together until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the squash, sweet potatoes, regular potato, and water or stock, and bring to a simmer. Add salt to taste, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until all of the ingredients are thoroughly tender.

2. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup (or you can put it through the fine blade of a food mill or use a regular blender, working in batches and placing a kitchen towel over the top to avoid splashing). Return to the pot and stir with a whisk to even out the texture. Heat through, adjust salt and add pepper to taste.

Yield: Serves 6
Advance preparation: You can make this a day ahead and refrigerate. Reheat gently. The soup freezes well. Once thawed, whisk well to smooth out the texture, and reheat.

picture at top from the New York Times
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one year ago yesterday at E.D.T. : sweet and savory together with Apple-Fennel Soup and a fabulous Pumpkin Mousse!

Spanish smoke: Grilled Swordfish with Pimenton

Even I can only eat so much pork, beef, and all the wonderful by products that flow from those two of god's creatures who are thankfully lower on the food chain than us...pancetta, pork belly, rib eyes, the holiest of porcine-bovine combinations, bacon-cheeseburgers...just thinking about them makes me salivate. But as is aid, sometimes a person needs a break, and thanks to the NYT's Mark Bittman I came across this fabulous swordfish preparation that had much approval at our dinner table last night. You can watch Bittman's accompanying video by clicking here.

This particular...and very easy...preparation makes liberal use of pimenton, or Spanish smoked paprika, which is going to fast become my favorite spice. Now I've never been a big fan of swordfish as I usually prefer fish that is slightly less "steak-like" in texture, but man was this good. I think too many places also overcook the fish, which is never a good thing. Following Bittman's directions though gave a perfectly cooked, tender steak. His pimenton marinade (brushed on the fish steaks prior to cooking in right photo) was a perfect foil to the swordfish as well, adding smoky, spicy complexity without overwhelming the flavor of the fish itself. Plus the pimenton aioli, taking the place of a tartar sauce was an awesome accompaniment. Even made with regular Best Foods as he suggested rather than homemade it rocked! I also got double duty by using the leftover as a sandwich spread that totally upped the ante on a roast chicken sando today. Served alongside some roasted fingerlings (that were also so good dipped into the aioli) and some slices of fresh tomatoes out of our garden, it was exactly the right ticket if you want to catch the non-red meat train!
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Grilled Fish with Pimentón Aioli
from Mark Bittman/The New York Times

Time: 20 minutes

ingredients:
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 teaspoons pimentón
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 swordfish or other fish steaks, about 1 1/2 pounds
1/2 cup mayonnaise
Lemon juice to taste.

method:
1. Start a grill or preheat broiler. Mix together all but 1/2 teaspoon garlic, some salt and pepper, half the pimentón and olive oil. Brush one side of fish steaks with this mixture (if you are broiling, brush both sides). Put on grill, sauced side down, and brush other side. Grill or broil, turning once, until done, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise with remaining garlic and pimentón; add a little lemon juice and whisk; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve fish with a dollop of aioli.

Yield: 4 servings.

Four star cooking at my house? Hell yes!

Eric Ripert, superstar and four-star chef at NYC's Le Bernardin has nothing on me. Well, except for better equipment, years of experience, and a battalion of prep slaves, plus movie star good looks and that damn French accent. But other than those minor differences, we're pretty much alike. At least as far as this Ripert recipe came out.

I had picked up a beautiful piece of fresh cod fillet at our local Wednesday farmer's market here in PDX, and was as always looking for new inspiration. I checked on epicurious and this Ripert recipe popped up. If anyone knows their way around a piece of fish, it's Ripert. He made his 4 star chops by turning out stellar interpretations of classic French preparations, mostly seafood focused. So with that as my inspiration, how could I not try it?

Final verdict? This was really tasty. The fish was perfectly moist, the sauce was excellent. Complex, silky smooth, not a thick curry, so if you wanted that I suppose you could reduce it down, but I think Ripert's point was to have it more of a broth. And the baby bok choy cooked in the buttered water water was genius, something I'd never heard of. Maybe my plating wasn't up to four-star standards, but this dish nailed it!
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Cod with Coconut, Lime, and Lemongrass Curry Sauce
Makes 4 servings.

ingredients:

The Sauce:
1 tablespoon butter
2 shallots, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 lemongrass stalk, thinly sliced
1-inch knob ginger, thinly sliced
3 kaffir lime leaves
1 tablespoon Madras curry
3 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup fresh coconut milk, or canned
4 cilantro sprigs
Fine sea salt to taste
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

The Cod:
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 7-ounce cod fillets, 1 1/2-inches thick
Fine sea salt to taste
Freshly ground white pepper to taste

The Garnish:
1/2 pound butter
Fine sea salt
9 heads baby bok choy, divided in half (quartered if large)
1/4 cup kosher salt

Special equipment:
2 10-inch nonstick ovenproof skillets

method:
Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Two of the wonderful flavoring agents: kaffir lime leaves and sliced lemongrass








To make the broth, melt the butter in a small sauté pan or wok over medium heat.
Add the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, kaffir lime leaves and curry and sweat until tender and with no color, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat simmer for 15 minutes.
Add the coconut milk and cilantro, and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine chinois and set aside.

Divide the 2 tablespoons of canola oil between the skillets.
Place over high heat until oil is just smoking. Season the cod on both sides with salt and pepper. Put 2 pieces of cod in each skillet and sauté until golden brown and crusted on the bottom, about 2 1/2 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side for 30 seconds. Put the pans in the oven and roast until a metal skewer can be easily inserted into the fish and, when left in the fish for 5 seconds, feels hot when touched to your lip, about 6 to 7 minutes.

The cod fillets, just out of the oven looking good. Top that Ripert!








In a large pot, heat 4 quarts of water, the butter, and the kosher salt.
Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the bok choy and cook until crisp tender, about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on a sheet pan in the refrigerator to cool quickly so they retain their bright green color.

To serve, reheat the sauce and finish with the lime juice.
In each of 4 bowls, place a piece of cod. Place 3 to 4 pieces of bok choy around the cod. Pour the sauce over the cod and serve immediately.

Add the coconut milk and cilantro, and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine chinois and set aside.

Divide the 2 tablespoons of canola oil between the skillets.
Place over high heat until oil is just smoking. Season the cod on both sides with salt and pepper. Put 2 pieces of cod in each skillet and sauté until golden brown and crusted on the bottom, about 2 1/2 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side for 30 seconds. Put the pans in the oven and roast until a metal skewer can be easily inserted into the fish and, when left in the fish for 5 seconds, feels hot when touched to your lip, about 6 to 7 minutes.

In a large pot, heat 4 quarts of water, the butter, and the kosher salt.
Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the bok choy and cook until crisp tender, about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside on a sheet pan in the refrigerator to cool quickly so they retain their bright green color.

To serve, reheat the sauce and finish with the lime juice.
In each of 4 bowls, place a piece of cod. Place 3 to 4 pieces of bok choy around the cod. Pour the sauce over the cod and serve immediately.