Asian Cucumber Salad

Before you leave your comments, let me say it for you: "Man, would that picture have been so much better if I had artfully arranged some cilantro sprigs on top of the salad." You know the drill on why this didn't happen, because it's happened to you. I'm at the store buying ingredients for dinner, and I KNEW I had a bunch of cilantro at home. Of course upon arriving home I find that there was no cilantro anywhere to be found, but I'll be damned if I'm going to go pack C-boy back out to the car, run to the store and fight the after work crowd, just so my f*cking picture turns out better. I may be a bit obsessive about taking pictures of my food, but I'm not THAT crazy! So there ya have it.

In any event, even without the visually pleasing, but unnecessary to the enjoyment of, cilantro, this bright tasting cucumber salad was delicious. A perfect accompaniment to the cod with two sauces I served with it (that freakishly good..and easy...recipe tomorrow). It received the highest compliment from w, who said it tasted similar to the cucumber salad her dad makes (and w's dad is not to trifled with in all things Asian-flavored). Its cool, fresh flavors played off the spicy, full-flavored fish dish perfectly, and took all of about ten minutes to throw together, not counting the hour it sits in the fridge where the magical flavor melding happens. Try it out, you'll be impressed!
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Asian Cucumber Salad
adapted from Southern Living Magazine (proving that one never knows where inspiration may come from!!- bb)

serves 6

ingredients:
3/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
1/8 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon lite soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 large cucumbers, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

method:
Stir together first 7 ingredients in a large bowl. Add cucumbers, tossing to coat. Cover and chill 1 hour. Using your hands, place on salad plates, letting excess dressing drain off into bowl before plating. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Serve immediately.

Behold, the Deviled Egg!

There is never a time when deviled eggs are a bad idea. N-E-V-E-R! You serve them as an app at a party or show up at someone's door with them and you, my friends, have instantly risen in everyone's esteem. There are a few unfortunate souls who can't take the egg (all is forgiven DOR) for whatever reason. But for those who do, which is seemingly 98% of the population, the deviled egg is usually lusted over. Maybe it's the feelings of childhood memories it brings back. Certainly in my case it is. I always remember my mom's eggs, and those rare occasions we'd have them were highly anticipated. She didn't do anything fancy....a little mayo, some yellow mustard, salt, pepper...that's about it. Didn't matter. Instant happiness.

Now I may use a little more creativity than mom, because deviled eggs are the perfect vehicle for experimenting, but the results always bring the same feelings back. The ones pictured I did by mashing up the yolks of six hard boiled eggs with mayo, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, a couple small cloves of minced garlic, and some crisply fried pancetta bits, then dusting the whole plate with grated parmesan. You can go in any direction you want. Plus, they are about the easiest appetizer you can make. Like I said, everyone loves them. Just watch what happens when there are eight people at a party, and one or two eggs left on the plate. Everyone will play it cool, like "Oh, I couldn't possibly have another" while inside you can bet they're desperately figuring a way to grab one without anyone noticing. Yeah, you know who you are........

A note on boiling eggs: the key to the perfect deviled egg is of course a clean, just done yolk. One without that rim of blue-grey that comes from cooking it too long. Here's what I do that seems to work like a charm- add the desired amount of eggs to a large sauce pan and cover with cold water. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. When the water comes to a full boil, remove the pan from the heat and cover. Let the eggs sit for 16-18 minutes, then remove lid from pan, drain water, and run cold water over the eggs to stop the cooking and cool the eggs down for easier peeling. You should have perfectly yellow yolks with which to work your devilish magic.

Butternut Squash Soup with star anise and ginger shrimp: yummy in a hurry!

Have I mentioned my affinity for all things delicious, fast, and easy in these days of being a slave to an A.D.D. afflicted one-year-old? Oh, that's right , I just did in this recent post. Okay, C-boy really isn't A.D.D. afflicted. I hear they're all like that. Damn those developmental milestones. What will I hear next, that he's about to start walking? You know, when I mention hobbling his wrists to his ankles I get the funniest looks. Anyway, I have also meant to make use of these butternut squash that I grew in my little garden this summer. My b-nuts were one of the few "successes" in an otherwise not so fulfilling garden season. Now I know why they invented grocery store produce sections! You know, I really don't think when you factor in water, time, and worry that these are all that cost effective grown at home. I mean at our organic market they cost about $.50 a pound.

So I've had the squash in my basement, thinking that I can somehow make ALL FIVE of them last until next year. We had a pretty decadent pasta the night before, so a light soup seemed to be the perfect follow up. Then I can rationalize overindulging again tonight. So sitting at work I start perusing epicurious and came across the followiong butternut squash soup recipe that led to that (in my not-so-humble opinion) pretty sweet picture above. Just what I needed...10 minutes of prep time, about 30 minutes of watching things cook. The results were lovely. The soup was rich, silky smooth, with an intriguing added dimension, ever so very slightly licorice-y, from the star anise that cooked in the pot along with the squash. Great stuff with the crispy ginger shrimp resting in pinkish splendor on a golden pool.....or something like that.

If you're looking for a perfect wine pairing, I think a bottle of Argentinean Torrontes would be awesome. Make sure you get a drier styled one, like the 2009 Crios de Susanna Balbo, one of the best out there.
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Butternut Squash Soup with Star Anise and Ginger Shrimp
adapted from epicurious

makes about 5 cups

ingredients:
18 large shrimp in shell (about 1 lb), peeled, leaving tail and first segment of shell intact, and deveined
2 or 3 tablespoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
2/3 cup chopped shallot
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
3 whole star anise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 3/4 lb butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (5 cups)
4 cups chicken stock or broth (the original recipe called for adding 2 cups water, which would have left this way to thin- bb)
Salt and white pepper (you can use regular freshly ground black pepper, but I prefer not to have black specks floating in the soup. All about aesthetics, you know!- bb)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

method:
1-Have all prep done before combining shrimp and ginger.

2-Toss shrimp with ginger in a bowl and marinate, chilled, 30 minutes (do not marinate any longer or enzymes from ginger will begin to cook shrimp).

3-Cook shallot, garlic, and anise in butter in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until shallot is softened, about 5 minutes. Add squash, stock, and water and simmer, uncovered, until squash is very tender, about 20 minutes. Remove star anise.
Purée soup in 2 batches in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids) until very smooth, about 1 minute per batch, then transfer to cleaned pan. Season with salt and white pepper. Keep warm, covered.

4-Sprinkle marinated shrimp with salt. Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté shrimp in 2 batches, stirring, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes per batch, transferring to paper towels.
Bring soup to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Divide among shallow soup bowls and mound 3 or 4 shrimp in each bowl.

T-Day burnout? Relief is at hand: Curried Butternut Squash Soup!

You know and I know there's a good chance you'll be having turkey burnout after Thanksgiving....or just plain burnout leading up to the day. Given how heavy everything is going to be, you don't really need to be piling onto a body already screaming for relief. I mean how clogged can your artery's get? So for something a bit lighter, but still with more than enough flavor to make you feel like you're not cheating your tastebuds, this awesome curried butternut squash soup is the total deal. Insanely easy to make (and as I said this is the week to make it simple where you can), and so satisfying. The roasted squash gives it boatloads rich flavor, the curry paste kicks in just the right amount of heat, and the creamy texture gives it kind of a sexy, sensual feel in your mouth. Assuming you're in to that sort of thing!

I adapted this from an epicurious/Bon Appetit recipe (where they called it a "Bisque". Hey B.A., it's a fucking soup, okay? I don't need to call it anything else to validate myself....geez...posers!), making it a bit lighter than they called for in their usual heavy handed, satisfy "fat America" way. It would also be a killer make-ahead first course for a dinner party.
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Curried Butternut Squash Soup
adpated from Bon Appetit

makes 6 servings

ingredients:
2 2-pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeded
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrots
1/2 cup chopped peeled apple
2 teaspoons Thai red curry paste
28 oz. low-salt chicken broth
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup whole milk
1 tablespoons honey

6 tablespoons sour cream, stirred to loosen (optional)
Chopped fresh cilantro

method:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Brush cut side of squash with oil; place squash, cut side down, on large rimmed baking sheet. Roast until tender, about 1 hour. Cool slightly. Scoop squash out into large bowl. Measure 3 cups squash (reserve any remaining squash for another use).

Melt butter in large pot over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrots, and apple; sauté 5 minutes. Add curry paste; stir 2 minutes. Add chicken broth, bay leaves, and 3 cups squash. Bring to boil; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered 1 hour. Discard bay leaves. Working in batches, puree soup in blender until smooth. Return to same pot. Stir in cream and honey. Season with salt and pepper. Rewarm over medium-high heat.

Divide soup among bowls. Drizzle with sour cream; sprinkle with cilantro.

note: you can also hand blend it or use a food processor, although neither will give it as velvety a texture as a good upright blender. For so many soups, I think a blender is SO worth the investment! -bb

The duck that keeps on giving

I keep having the same pesky kitchen problem. What is it? What is causing me to lie awake at night, tossing and turning? Two words: duck confit. A fridge that lately has been full of duck legs ever since I made a big batch of confit the other week (using this recipe). Man, is my life hard or what? I did a terrific confit and fava pasta the other night. I still had a couple of legs left and had to do something with them, if only so I could sleep at night. So I stole some ideas from epicurious, did a little riffing, and came up with a savory bit of salad deliciousness that would be a great first course at a dinner party. This was one of those fast, easy, and healthy (as long as you don't eat too much fatty-crispy duck skin, which w didn't but I of course did) salads that just felt good to eat. The original recipe called for pears, but this is early season for those. There were ripe white nectarines in abundance at the market and their juicy sweetness set off the other ingredients perfectly, and the browned/fried pecans added a nice nutty complexity. epicurious also called for blue cheese crumbles. Why do they always do that? Usually you don't need them. In this salad it was completely unnecessary, and would have been way too strong for the duck. It turned into a pretty damn impressive salad.The downside: now my fridge is devoid of duck, so back to Nicky USA I go!
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Duck Confit and White Nectarine Salad
adapted from epicurious
serves 4-6

ingredients:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1/2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
2 confit duck legs
3 firm-ripe white nectarines
8 cups mixed greens, such as frisée (French curly endive), tender watercress sprigs, and baby spinach leaves

method:
Preheat oven to 225°F.

Whisk together mustard, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste in a large bowl. Add 4 tablespoons oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified, then whisk in shallot.
Heat remaining tablespoon oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook pecans, stirring, until golden brown. Transfer nuts with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, then season with salt.

Heat skillet with any oil remaining in it over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown duck on all sides until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and tear meat into bite-size pieces and discard bones. Keep duck warm, covered, on a baking sheet in oven.

Slice nectarine into thin wedges. Add nectarines, greens, duck, and nuts to dressing with salt and pepper to taste, then toss gently to combine.

Sea Scallops on a Pea-Mint Purée: simple genius!

Let me repeat myself: I am so damn lucky to have the friends I do. Especially because so many of them have genius cooking skills. I'm not talking molecular gastronomy/sous vide/foaming everything/mad kitchen scientist (aka Grant Achatz) sort of genius. I'm talking the genius of people who just appreciate good food, mostly prepared simply, and who also love sharing what they know. The following recipe is a perfect example of what I call simple genius.

The other night w and I had friends over, and since it was a Monday (when I'm off work), I was looking forward to a day of shopping, prepping, setting the table, all those things that build the anticipation for a great evening and I happen to LOVE doing. Even more so than usual this time because I was being joined by my author pal DOR, who just got back from the India/Nepal border region on a research trip for a new book, suggested we hang out cooking together in my kitchen. Nothing could have sounded better. The night's main course was going to be my, if I may shamelessly prop myself, stellar butternut squash risotto. After apps and cocktails, I wanted to start with a first course of scallops, and DOR mentioned he had a recipe for seared scallops on a pea-mint purée that he was feeling pretty smug about. He has fed me enough incredible food, so there's no need for debate. As you can see from the photo, his dish is beautiful to look at and even more delicious to eat (we decided together that a few fried pancetta bits could only help things). And it was so simple to prepare. The best part is it uses frozen peas, so you can get all food-porny year round. DOR thought it was an old Bittman recipe, but he couldn't remember for sure. Wherever it came from, it left everyone gasping for superlatives. Again, simple genius!

Wine choice: to me this cries out for a crisp, all stainless fermented sauvignon blanc. Maybe a fresh Sancerre from the Loire Valley, or if you can find it (I know where), what I consider the finest sauvignon blanc made in the U.S., the 2007 J. Christopher "Willamette Valley".
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Seared Scallops on a Pea-Mint Purée
Serves 8
ingredients:
3 tablespoons butter
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
16 sea scallops
2 small bags frozen peas
1 cup fresh mint leaves
4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved.
2 small shallots, sliced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces pancetta, finely diced (optional....but really good!)

method:
1- In a large non-stick skillet on medium heat, add 2 tablespoons butter and one tablespoon olive oil. When butter has melted, add peas, garlic, and shallots. Sauté until peas have thawed and heated slightly. Remove from heat. While peas are heating, put diced pancetta in a small non-stick sauté pan and cook until crisp. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
2- Place pea mixture in a food processor. Add half on mint leaves. Pulse until peas and mint form a coarse purée. Taste, and if minty enough, don't add any more, If not, have at it with more mint leaves. Drizzle in olive oil with motor running until mixture is slightly viscous (about the texture of pesto). Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
3- Rinse scallops, pat dry, and lightly salt both sides. In a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, add one tablespoon butter and one tablespoon olive oil. When butter melts and foam subsides, add scallops and sear for about 2 minutes per side until a light brown crust forms (see picture). If pan is too crowded, do in batches, and keep finished scallops warm in a 170* oven (they won't be in long enough to cook more).

4- On small plates (if you have white plates, use them because the color just jumps off of them) add a dollop of pea-mint purée, spread slightly, top with two scallops, and sprinkle with pancetta bits. Serve immediately. Feel the love!
Cooks note: DOR also says he uses this as an edibly attractive base for halibut, salmon, and other fish.

Sautéed Scallops...simply delicious!

This is such a simple, fast and easy first course that it doesn't even need a written out recipe for you to get much love heaped upon you by those who are lucky enough to share its deliciousness. One of those things that delivers huge flavor reward for your time investment. Scallops to me are something that demands minimal dressing up. We served this as a first course last Saturday before the glory that was the saltimbocca alla romana, and it was a stellar starting point. With something as rich as the saltimbocca, the scallops were a nice, light starting point. Of course I did amp it up a bit with glasses of 2002 Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet "1er Cru Les Chenevottes"....just because I care about the happiness of others. To get your scallop groove on here's all you do: Chop a handful of garlic and a handful of Italian parsley and set aside. Take your sea scallops...maybe two or three per person (and make sure they're fresh when you buy them. I'll ask my fish guy if I can smell them. I've been burned by bad scallops before)...pat them dry, and lightly salt and pepper each one. Dredge the top and bottom in a light coating of flour, shaking off the excess. Do them all before you start to sauté. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a medium non-stick sauté pan (use a larger pan if needed. you don't want them crowding each other) over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, carefully place each scallop in the pan, cook about 1 or 2 minutes per side. Turn when a nice golden crust develops. Remove from heat and and put on serving plates. Try really hard not to overcook. You want them just opaque in the center. Add a little more oil, let it heat up and throw the garlic and parsley into the pan. Stir it around for about 45 seconds or so...the parsley will get nice and crisp...and remove from heat and distribute equally over the scallops. Serve to your guests who will rave. Get ready to act all humble like it was nothing...which it wasn't, but they don't have to know!!

Oh my Goddess!

This has been one of those backburner things on my to make list for so long. It was having a great version at CAVA here in Portland that got me thinking about this most old school of salad dressings. According to The Gourmet Cookbook it was first concocted in 1920 at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco where the chef made it in honor of actor George Arliss, who was starring in Scottish playwright William Archer's play The Green Goddess during its run in the city (note: not The City, just "the city"). I was inspired to action after reading a story with recipe in the New York Times Magazine a couple of weeks ago.

After reading their version, and looking at a couple of different interpretations from various sources including Gourmet, I cobbled together this, if I may, perfect version. It resembles, especially looking at the NYT's recipe (which they first ran in 1948), a caesar dressing. What I remember from CAVA's version, and most others I've had, is a nice lashing of tarragon. Oddly, the NYT version had none. But the Gourmet Cookbook version left out the garlic, which seemed a natural considering the other ingredients. So I took some bits from here and some pieces from there, and served it with a fabulous dinner for our friends J&K last Saturday (where the entrée was this drop-dead delicious Saltimbocca alla Romana) and it received much praise. I highly suggest you grab some romaine lettuce and get in touch with your inner Goddess!
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Green Goddess Dressing
an E.D.T. Original (with inspiration from several!)

ingredients:
1 cup mayonnaise
3 flat oil packed anchovy fillets, minced
1 teaspoon oil from anchovy jar or tin
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 scallion chopped
2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped chives
2 tablespoons chopped tarragon
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper

method:
Combine all ingredients except salt and pepper in food processor and purée until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
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One year ago today @E.D.T: Bill Clinton dancing with a member of Flock of Seagulls!!

Hazelnut and Wild Mushroom Soup: can you hear fall calling?

Could my life be any better on this warm autumn afternoon? Sitting here watching my beloved Cubs in game 1 of the playoffs on their inexorable march to their first World Series title in 100 years. Sipping an ice cold Lagunitas IPA while giving you yet another killer way to satisfy your endless hunger for good food. It's good for me, it's good for you. The karmic wheel is spinning just fine, thank you very much!

So what do I have to bestow upon you? Only one of the best soups you have ever had in your otherwise fulfilled lives. I blogged this mushroom and hazelnut soup a couple of years ago, but since then there are thousands more regular eat.drink.think. readers, so it absolutely bears repeating. I first got this recipe from our local sustainable living magazine ediblePortland. I've done it three times since, the last time just this past Sunday as a soup course prior to an insanely good grilled leg of lamb. This also happens to be an easy, fabulously seasonal bowl of deliciousness that takes advantage of fresh fall hazelnuts and the seasons first wild mushrooms. Very rich, but not over the top, with exquisite nuttiness that merges perfectly with the earthy mushrooms. The mushroom stock recipe that I think is essential (as opposed to the optional chicken stock) absolutely makes this dish and would be an excellent base for other soups, or added to a wild mushroom risotto. Topped with a dollop of sherry or marsala whipped cream, this is elegant, satisfying and I guarantee your guests will swoon. That is if you decide to share!
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Mushroom and Hazelnut Soup with Sherry Cream
adapted from ediblePortland/ Heather Staten, chef instructor at In Good Taste Cooking School
serves 4-6

ingredients:
-2/3 cup Oregon hazelnuts
-2 tablespoons unsalted butter
-2 large shallots, finely minced
-2 cloves garlic, finely minced
-1 pound button or crimini mushrooms, stems removed and sliced (save stems for mushroom stock)
-1/2 pound wild mushrooms (chanterelles, porcini, or shitake are all good)
-1/4 cup Amontillado sherry or Marsala
-4 cups mushroom stock (recipe below) or chicken stock (see notes at bottom)
-salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 35o degrees. Toast the hazelnuts for 10 minutes until they are lightly toasted and their skins begin to crack. Remove from oven and put hazelnuts in clean dishtowel. Rub vigorously to remove as much skin as possible. When cool, grind the nuts in a food processor and set aside.

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until translucent. Add the mushroom slices and sauté 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Deglaze the pan with sherry or Marsala. Add the mushroom stock and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes. Puree the soup and nuts together in a food processor or blender (see notes at bottom) in batches- process a long time until the hazelnuts are completely smooth and integrated into the soup.
Sherry/Marsala Cream:
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons sherry or Marsala
Finely chopped tarragon, chives, or parsley to garnish

Whip the cream, and add the sherry or Marsala. Serve dolloped on top of the hot soup and sprinkle with chopped herbs.

Mushroom Stock:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped coarsely
1 large carrot, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 leek, rinsed and chopped
2 garlic cloves, halved
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
4 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon soy sauce
4 to 8 ounces mushrooms from preceding recipe
6 cups water

Heat the olive oil in a large 4 quart saucepan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and leek and sauté over medium-high heat until the onion is well browned, about 15 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sautée another 5 minutes. Add all the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered for 45 minutes. Strain through a sieve.

** Cook's notes: First, this recipe looks like a lot of work, but it really isn't that hard and comes together quite easily. Secondly, I would definitely make the mushroom stock and skip the chicken stock option. It is very easy and is crazily aromatic. Lastly, use a blender if you have one. The soup will come out velvety smooth, more so than in the processor, which is exactly what you want.- bb

Go to your room and play with your toy!!!

Can I please? Can I, can I??? Especially when my room is the kitchen and my new toy is this gorgeous Cuisinart BRK-200 Brick Oven Deluxe toaster oven. "Toaster oven"...it seems kind of demeaning to call this a mere toaster oven. Before this when I thought of toaster ovens I pictured those grimy little Oster numbers that litter garage sales across America. No, the BRK-200 is a serious piece of kitchen fun. Lined on the inside with pizza stone, equipped with a convection setting, heating to 500*. It kicks ass! How did I come to posses this stainless clad bit of inspiration? I have to thank Eric Ripert.

Most of you foodie types have hard of chef Eric Ripert. 4-star Chef at NYC's Le Bernardin. An incredible cooking talent who also happens to be tall, good looking, and with that damn charming French accent. Like the British accent that always has this innate authority (those BBC radio guys could say "The interior ministry has decreed that everyone should eat more dirt" and I'd probably be out in the garden shoveling handfuls in my mouth), the French accent has this lilting, sing-song, je ne sais quoi quality that makes everything sound romantically fabulous, including my new BRK-200. See, I just found Ripert's blog "Avec Eric" and he's had a series of posts about cooking things in his Cuisinart oven (they are also one of the sponsors of his blog). Avec Eric is a really great site, where Ripert posts recipes and videos of simple, delicious (so far) recipes that everyone can make. After seeing him whipping fish, tomatoes, and other delectable looking edibles in and out of his own countertop oven, I, being weak of mind, just HAD TO HAVE AN OVEN OF MY OWN. I'm like that junkie who needs the quick hookup. So w, in her great understanding of my kitchen gadget fetish, acquiesced to my desire to use our leftover credit from our recent wedding at PDX cookware store Kitchen Kaboodle. So the next day off I went, and home I came with my new toy, and it has been a blast! We've done fish, toasted bread for garden fresh tomato BLT's, and last night replicated ER's recipe for Tomatoes Provençal, which were an awesome pre-dinner treat. Sure, you could do these under the broiler in your regular oven, but don't you NEED one of these too? Yeah, I thought so. Happy shopping!!
*** *** ***
Eric Ripert's Tomatoes Provençal
feeds 2

ingredients:
2 tomatoes, sliced into thirds
1 ½ teaspoons herbes de Provence
¼ cup olive oil
1 small clove garlic, sliced thin
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
fresh basil

method:
1. Heat toaster oven to broil.
2. Arrange the sliced tomatoes on a toaster oven tray, season with herbes de Provence, salt, pepper, and olive oil and garlic
3. Broil for about 4-5 minutes until the tomatoes are tender and a little caramelized.
4. Serve with fresh basil, making sure to pour the excess oil from the tray over the top.

Lovely to look at, better to eat!

This beautiful to look at and better to eat parsnip-carrot soup once again proves that our friends are not only the nicest people we could hope to have in our lives, but are also some of the most talented cooks around. All I have to say is thank god! w's friend Sue knew my lovely bride was going in for some dental surgery (are there two worse words together than "dental surgery"? Yikes!) and would be off the chew for a few days, and delivered to us this stunning pot of soupy goodness that we LOVED. It was so good I made a point to get the recipe because certain things must be shared. It's silky texture, intense but not heavy flavors, and beautiful orange color were awesome. With a loaf of crusty bread and a bottle of 2007 Boedecker Cellars Pinot Gris you'll have yourself a great meal. You could also throw this down as a fantastic first course at your next dinner party and let your friends give you much love for your cooking skills.....which is what it's all about, right?!
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Parsnip, Carrot, and Ginger Soup
makes 6 servings

ingredients:
1 pound parsnips, peeled (about 2 large)
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 onions, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp. fresh ginger, peeled and grated
12 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into 1 inch chunks (about 4 medium)
1-1/2 qts. chicken broth or stock, more if needed
1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
½ cup whipping cream or half-and-half (optional)
1 tbsp. sherry vinegar
1 tbsp. sweet vermouth (optional)
salt and freshly ground pepper
sour cream or crème fraiche
fresh thyme sprigs
method:
1-Cut the larger ends of parsnips lengthwise into quarters; if there any woody cores cut those away. Cut all parsnips into one inch chunks. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until they are soft and translucent. Add the ginger and stir one minute, then mix in the parsnips and carr5ots and cook five minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil., reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are soft, about one hour.
2-Puree the vegetables with the broth they are cooked in (preferably using a blender), adding more broth if necessary to reach the desired consistency. When all the vegetables have been pureed, add the thyme and nutmeg. Thin the soup with broth or cream as necessary, then reheat without letting boil to allow flavors to meld. Add the vinegar and vermouth if desired, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
3-Ladle soup into bowls. Place sour cream or crème fraiche in a squeeze bottle and finish soup with a quick squiggle if you’re feeling fancy. Garnish with thyme sprig and serve.

Meyer Lemon Risotto is winter warmth!

Did I ever mention my love of my Meyer lemon tree? Maybe not love in the romantic sense (which would be very disturbing), but love for not only the fact that every year it delivers the sweetly tart yellow orbs of goodness, but also the simple reason that here in our cold, wet, sun-deprived winters I can grow something that you usually see in SoCal or other sunny climes. It's kind of this constant hit of summer every time I look at it or smell the crazily fragrant blossoms. I keep it sitting inside the wine shack in front of a huge south facing window during the winter, and sometimes when I walk in first thing in the morning the aroma just knocks me on my ass, reminding me of a walk though some tropical lemon grove. Okay, I have to close my eyes really tight and stretch my imagination to get there, but you get where I'm going.

We've been making good use of this years crop. Especially intoxicating were the Meyer lemon sidecars made with pear brandy. In fact, we'll be having them again tonight since I find myself with some extra juice from the risotto below. Oh, yeah, the reason for this post is the continuation of the "Month of the New", and our latest excursion into the culinary unknown came courtesy of the aforementioned lemon tree and a recipe that I looked up months ago online and forgot where it came from (so if you're the creator and reading this, please don't be offended and think I'm trying to steal it for my own. Let me know and you'll get full credit. Oh, and thanks!). This was absolutely delicious, like another hit of spring or summer...the natural richness of the risotto set off against the sweet/tangy Meyer lemon and basil. It was even better the next day warmed up at work, rare for a risotto, when the somewhat assertive initial citrusy character had a chance to mellow and meld with the basil, onion, and celery. So be sure and make plenty so you'll have leftovers!

And for those of you who say "Risotto is SO much work, all that stirring." Please, give me a break. If you can't stand up and stir a pot for 15 or 20 minutes, then you'd be better off hopping in your car and hitting your nearest fast food drive through for your McShaker Salad and Filet-O-Fish at McDonald's or whatever the hell you debase yourselves with. For the rest of you, grab some beautiful Meyers at the store and rock this simple, easy, and satisfying risotto asap!
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Meyer Lemon Risotto with Basil
6 first course servings

If you can't find any Meyer lemons, use regular (Eureka) lemons.

ingredients:
6 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium red onion, finely chopped, about 1 to 1-1/2 cups
1 tender inner celery rib, finely chopped, plus 1/4 cup chopped leaves
1/2 Thai or Serrano chile, minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 cups arborio rice (10 ounces)
1/2 cup white vermouth
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons finely grated Meyer lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh Meyer lemon juice
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons julienned basil leaves


method:
1. Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan, cover and keep hot. Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion, celery rib and chile, season with salt and pepper and cook over low heat, stirring, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the celery leaves and garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the rice and cook, stirring until glossy, about 1 minute.

2. Add the vermouth to the rice and simmer over moderate heat until almost absorbed, about 3 minutes. Add the hot stock, 1 cup at a time, and cook, stirring constantly between additions, until most of the stock has been absorbed before adding more. The rice is done when it's tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes total. Stir in the 1/2 cup of Parmesan cheese, the mascarpone, the lemon zests and juices and the basil. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the risotto into bowls and serve, passing additional Parmesan at the table.

Cooks note: We had this as a main dish, but I agree with the first course use recommendation. Its bright freshness would be a perfect start to a dinner of braised or grilled hunks of meat.

Feeling Crabby

Not to rub it in, but I feel for all of you poor, hungry eaters who live in other parts of the country, because every year about this time I get pretty fucking smug about the fact that I can buy one of the greatest treats in the entire food world, something that is so sweet, succulent, and entirely too delicious for a mere $3.99 a pound at our local markets. What could it possible be, that envelopes me in feelings of peace, joy, and gustatory well-being? The only possible answer is Dungeness Crab season here in the NW.

w and I live for this time of year. She get positively giddy at the prospect of breaking apart their reddish -pink boiled little bodies to get at the sweetly satisfying meat inside. Crab eaters fall into two camps. w and I happen to personify this dichotomous eating style. There are your crab cleaners who eat as they go (w), who can't wait for that first bite. Then there are your crab cleaners who have just enough self control who don't eat as they go (bb) so they end with a nice big pile of crab at the end that they can shovel into their mouths at will.

Whichever flavor of crab eater you are, make sure you leave enough crab at the end to make these absolutely wonderful crab cakes from Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything". Unlike most restaurant crab cakes that rely on fillers where it's like eating bread with a minute bit of crab, these are almost pure, unadulterated crab eating joyfulness, with just a bit of chopped seasonings, mayo, a tiny bit of bread crumbs, and egg as binder to hold them together. With some gentle handling through the cooking process, you'll end up with some crispy, perfect rounds of seasonal seafood perfection.********************

Crab Cakes
adapted from How to Cook Everything
time: 20 minutes plus refrigeration time

ingredients:
1 pound fresh lump crabmeat (make sure all cartilage is removed)
1 egg
1/4 cup minced red bell pepper
1/2 cup scallion
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons plain bread crumbs, or as needed
about 1 cup flour for dredging
1 teaspoon curry powder (optional)
2 tablespoons peanut, olive, or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter (or use all oil)
lemon wedges for garnish

method:
1-Mix together crabmeat, egg, bell pepper, scallion, mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper. Add sufficient bread crumbs to bind the mixture just enough to form into cakes. Start with two tablespoons and use more if you need it.

2-Refrigerate the mixture until you are ready to use it (it will be easier to shape if you refrigerate it for 30 minutes or more, but is ready to go when you finish mixing)

3-Season flour with salt, pepper (and curry if you like). Preheat a large skillet, preferably non-stick, over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the oil and butter and heat until the butter foam subsides. Shape the crabmeat into six cakes, carefully dredge each in the flour, and cook, adjusting the heat as necessary and turning once (very gently), until golden brown on both sides. Total cooking time will be about ten minutes. Seve with lemon wedges.

Savory starts and sweet finishes!

So we had these people over Sunday who were there to chow down on some rocking good, home-style meatloaf (see post below) during our anti-turkey dinner party, but you can't just throw some slabs of meat down on the plate with a couple of sides and call it good. Well, maybe you can, but not in our world. Besides, the more courses we serve, the more good bottles of wine we can open! With that in mind, both w and I came up with our own value-added contributions to go with the Good Eats Meatloaf....a before and after course...to keep the party going.

I love good soup, and am always on the lookout for something different, interesting, and if it's easy, especially on a night when people are coming over, all the better. This recipe from the New York Times' food writer Mark Bittman seemed to fit the bill perfectly. I've never had, much less made, an apple soup, but the combination of apple and fennel sounded too intriguing to pass up. This was also incredibly easy to put together, and with a couple of modifications to the original recipe, way delicious!

In the soup...warm, silky smooth goodness!








w was in charge of the after diner portion of our night of over-indulgence, and she had her eye on a very seasonal pumpkin mousse. When it comes to dessert, I've already stated that I am a huge "cake guy". But then there really aren't too many desserts that I won't get with. Being a fan of all sweet things served in ramekins, though, this one sounded too good....and it was! Not too heavy, with that light, fluffy, um....moussey texture. It was a perfect finish to the evening, especially served with a big ginger cookie.

Pumpkin mousse....like pudding, only better!









These were both fantastic, and again, SO easy. Big wow factor with minimal effort....the perfect dinner party equation!

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Apple-Fennel Soup
adapted from Mark Bittman

ingredients:
3 apples (Granny Smith, Winesap, Cameo or Cortland)
1 medium-size fennel bulb, stems removed, diced
1 shallot, sliced
2 small inner stems celery, with leaves
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
1 2/3 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 oz. sweet Italian sausage

method:
1. Peel and core 2 1/2 apples and place in 3-quart saucepan with fennel, shallot, celery, stock, wine, salt and pepper. Simmer 20 minutes, until all are tender.

2. Meanwhile, core and finely dice remaining half apple, toss with half the lemon juice, cover tightly or seal in a sandwich bag and set aside.

3. Put sausage into small skillet, crumble and brown until slightly crisp. Remove from pan and set aside.

4. Purée contents of saucepan in a blender; return to pot. Whisk in remaining lemon juice, cream and mustard. Bring to a simmer, check seasonings and serve, with diced apple and a few bits of crumbled sausage, garnishing each portion.

Yield: 6 servings.

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Pumpkin Mousse
recipe courtesy Dave Lieberman/FoodTV

ingredients:
1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin
3 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Ginger snaps, for garnish

method:
Combine pumpkin, 1 cup cream, sugar and spice in a medium saucepan. Simmer over medium heat for 5 minutes. Cool fully.

Whip remaining heavy cream and vanilla to soft peaks and fold into cooled pumpkin mixture. Pour into a serving dish and crumble the ginger snaps over top before serving.