Get Comfortable

If ever you wanted to throw the trendy word "seasonal" around and seem like a hip "foodie" (have we reached over-saturation on those two terms, especially the second one? I've gotta think so. It's become kind of cringe-inducing. I'm in the wine business, and it's like when people say to me "Oh, you're in the wine business? You must be a connoisseur." And I'm like "No, I just like to drink."), then you should throw this oh-so-autumnal, super easy, and way too satisfying roast chicken thigh recipe together. This is like wrapping a happy blanket of succulent chicken thighs and steaming hot root vegetables around your body....hmm...maybe that doesn't sound so good...but you get where I'm going. Feel free to sub in any roastable vegetables that suit your fancy....I threw in some brussel sprouts when I made it. We loved it, and it is absolutely dinner party worthy!
For your drinking pleasure you might want to follow my lead and pour a glass or several of the newly released 2008 Cameron Winery "Dundee Hills" Chardonnay. John Paul who is the wine savant at Cameron makes one of the two or three best chards in Oregon, and for my money in the U.S. beautifully pure fruit, a very judicious touch of oak, perfect balance. This worked fantastically with the richness of the chicken anbd roasted vegetables.
*** *** *** *** ***

Oven-Roasted Chicken Thighs w/ root vegetables
adapted from epicurious/Bon Appetit

yield: makes 4-6 servings

ingredients:
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
6 large chicken thighs with skin and bones
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into large chunks
3 Oriental sweet potatoes, scrubbed, cut into 2-inch-long, 1/2-inch-thick spears
4 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 2-inch-long, 1/2-inch-thick spears
8-10 whole peeled garlic cloves
3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives (optional)

method:
1- Preheat oven to 450°F. Coat large roasting pan with 1 tablespoon oil. Place chicken in roasting. Turn to coat with oil and set skin side up. Mix salt, thyme, 1½ teaspoons pepper, and nutmeg in small bowl. Sprinkle half of mixture over chicken. Roast until chicken starts to brown and some fat has rendered, about 30 minutes.

2- Meanwhile, combine all vegetables and garlic, 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining salt-thyme mixture in large bowl. Transfer thighs to medium bowl; set aside. Transfer potato-carrot mixture to same roasting pan; turn to coat with drippings. Roast until vegetables soften, 20-30 minutes. Place thighs on vegetables; pour accumulated juices from chicken over. Return sheet to oven. Roast until chicken is cooked and vegetables brown, 15 minutes longer. Place vegetables and chicken on platter; top with chives if desired.

note: the vegetables when I made it got quite dark on one side. Not burned, just very dark and caramelized (which we liked). This was a good thing, but keep an eye on them toward the end of the vegetable cooking cycle.- bb

Au maison de grands-mère

When I went over to my French grandma's house last Saturday and heard she was making this dish, I couldn't wait to dig in. Because Denise...who in actuality is neither French nor any sort of familial relation...had spneding the day channeling her inner grand-mere. This is the kind of steaming plate of goodness you'd want to tuck into at some Alpine mountain bistro, where a fire is roaring in one corner, bottles of wine are spread around, and large tureens of this chicken in white wine sauce are waiting your consumption. The rich, mushroomy sauce with the chicken cooked in it was fabulous served over small rectangles of baked puff pastry, a really nice presentation that I highly recommend you copy!

Wine recommendations: in keeping with the French feeling this inspired, I brought along a 2003 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-Les-Beaune which was elegant pinot noir personified, as only the French seem to be able to do. Even better was a bottle I brought from the wine shack, a 2004 Rabasse Charavin "Les Cailloux" Cotes du Rhone Villages (whose winemaker is the divinely named Corinne Couturier), its peppery blackberry and earth flavors matching up beautifully with the mushrooms and rich sauce. This was a classic southern French red that knocked everyone out. Great stuff! We also worked our way through an earthy, character-filled 2004 Martin Codax Rioja "Ergo" that was earthy and spicy, just like I like 'em! Oh, sure, you could go with a white....a rich St. Veran or Meursault from Burgundy would be my pick. But in this French fantasy I was living... il est, bien sur, vin rouge toute la soirée!
*** *** *** *** ***
Denise said this recipe looks complicated, but really isn't and actually took less time than yesterday's truffled potato app.

Chicken in White Wine Sauce a la della Santina / Pelissier (grandma)
Serves 6

12 pieces of chicken on the bone, trimmed of excess fat, skin left on. 2 to 1 dark to white proportion, I omit backs and wings, and cut half breasts in half again.
5 cloves of crushed garlic
Flour for dusting (I keep mine in a big shaker)
Olive oil for frying
Pat of butter for frying (Dad uses more butter than oil; I just use a little)
1 large onion sliced thinly, or 2 medium onions
1 to 1 1/2 pounds white mushrooms cut in quarters
2 1/2 cups (?!) white wine, sharp/tart, non-oaky, cheap
1-2 T dijon mustard
1 small jar capers with juice
1/2 cup sour cream & 1/4 cup whipping cream (optional) or 3/4 cup creme fraiche. More if sauce is thin / tart, less if thick / mellow.
Salt and Pepper
Large pinch herbes de provence or thyme
1 package thawed (takes 1 hour to thaw) Pepperidge Farm puff pastry (1 sheet yields 6 rectangles) or patty shells
-----------------
Rub chicken with crushed garlic, salt and pepper, dust with flour (this is how I prep ALL my braised meats)
Fry in a medium hot pan with olive oil to brown skin / sear, maybe 10 minutes?; do in batches if necessary. Remove.
Add a little butter to to the oil / chicken fat mixture and saute onions, crumble in herbs and a pinch of salt
Add mustard and wine, scrape bottom of pot, and boil down a bit until the alcohol smell dissipates (10 minutes?)
Add chicken pieces to pot (hold out breasts); liquid should cover 2/3rds of the chicken. Add more wine if it doesn't, and cover.
Simmer gently for 30 minutes, add breasts, mix and check liquids, should come up at least halfway up chicken, cover for another 15 minutes. If you don't use breasts, you can just dump in the rest of the ingredients now.
Add capers (1/2 to whole small jar) and caper liquid to taste. More if it needs to be tart, less if already salty and / or tart.
Preheat oven to 400, bake 6 rectangles of puff pastry for about 15 minutes.
If you're shy of liquid, add raw mushrooms to pot, salt lightly, and mix in. If there's a lot of sauce or it's really thin, saute mushrooms separately and add when sealed. To "seal": heat pan to high, add a little olive oil, add mushrooms to hot pan and don't touch! Flip or stir before they burn, and then leave alone again. Not touching them will stop them from giving off water. When almost cooked, lightly salt and add to chicken.
Add cream / sour cream / creme fraiche, reduce heat so it simmers slowly but doesn't boil. Correct salt. Can sit this way for 30 minutes; if longer just turn off the heat and let it sit. Warm up gently.
Cut cooked puff pastry in half horizontally, put half on the plate, cover with chicken and sauce, top, add more sauce and garnish with parsley.
##### ##### #####
one year ago today @ E.D.T.: speaking of my French grandmother, comfort food, and chicken, you have to try this Alsatian Chicken in Riesling!

The Comfort of Home

After almost two weeks in China the one thing I wanted eat more than anything when we got home was a nice, comforting roast chicken. Twelve days of eating things that while wildly satisfying. Except for the degradation and humiliation of the absolute garbage they call in-flight meal service on United Airlines. On our two long legs between SFO and China, the food was virtually inedible. By contrast, on a mere two hour hop from Shanghai to Hong Kong, we had an exceptionally satisfying Hindu meal on Cathay Pacific (pictured at right. It may not look like much in the photo, but it was delicious!). It seems domestic airlines are doing everything possible to make air travel an uncomfortable and trying experience.

In any event, due to various commitments and motivational impediments, I didn't get to my chicken until last night. now I think I make a pretty bad ass roast chicken on the grill. It really is as good as any chicken I've ever had out. But I was in the mood to try something different, so I checked on epicurious for some inspiration and came across this interesting sounding take that uses a mustard vinaigrette marinade. It was super easy to whip together, and I have to say the marinade that you stuffed under the skin and brushed on top really did keep the meat super moist, and imparted a very nice but not overpowering flavor, and the chopped fresh herbs that you sprinkle on top combined with the marinade to really intensify the flavor. Was it as good as my normal bird? Not quite, but for a change of pace and for a welcoming touch of soul satisfying comfort food, it worked pretty darn well!
*** *** *** *** ***
Roast Chicken with Mustard Vinaigrette
from epicurious
yield: Serves 4

ingredients:
For chicken:
1 6- to 7-pound roasting chicken
1 large shallot
2 fresh rosemary sprigs
2 fresh sage sprigs
1 cup Mustard Vinaigrette (recipe below)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

method:
Preheat oven to 450°F. Pat chicken dry. Season cavity with salt and pepper. Place shallot, 2 rosemary sprigs and 2 sage sprigs in cavity. Slide hand between chicken skin and meat over breast to form pockets. Spread 2 tablespoons vinaigrette under skin over breast meat. Tie legs together to hold shape; tuck wings under body. Place chicken in roasting pan. Brush 2 tablespoons vinaigrette over chicken. Sprinkle with chopped rosemary and sage. Season with salt and pepper.

Roast chicken 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F. Continue roasting until juices run clear when chicken is pierced in thickest part of thigh, basting occasionally with pan juices, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool 1 hour. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)

Serve with remaining vinaigrette.
- - - - - - - -
Mustard Vinaigrette
yield: Makes about 1 1/2 cups

ingredients:
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
2/3 cup chopped shallots
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage

method:
Mix mustard and vinegar in bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Mix in shallots and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover, chill. Bring to room temperature, mix before using.)
***********************

One year ago today: An amazingly fabulous pumpkin cake!

Using my time wisely

There are lots of ways you can spend your time. Some bad, some good. GWB's plan to spread democracy to Muslim countries: bad use of time. GWB reading a book like Three Cups of Tea so he might actually understand what's going in middle east countries: good use of time. My plan to be a lifelong Chicago Cubs fan: well, maybe not a bad use of time, but at best a questionable use of time. Me spending last Monday making Ragu alla Bolognese for a couple of friends: awesome use of time! So to keep it positive, I'll dwell on that.

Last Monday we made plans to have a couple of friends to dinner, and since indoor slow-cooking season is coming to and end, even here in unusually cold and wet PDX, it was the perfect time to pull out this recipe from my to-do list. First off, when it comes to pasta sauces, for me bolognese comes in second only to my beloved carbonara. You spend all day slowly watching something bubble away in a big pot, and when it comes time to serve it up, everyone can taste the love. Forget the trendy food nerd movement, this is real "slow food". I came across this recipe in the NY Times Magazine a few weeks ago. It's adapted from chef Marco Canora of Manhattan's Hearth, Insieme and Terroir restaurants. It's his versions of his grandmother's bolognese, and it was simply stunning. The article also states: "Another indication of a nearly finished ragù is that the evaporated liquids leave behind a sauce as thick as pudding. 'It’s done when it reaches that sexy consistency,' Canora says." Thick, super intense (it has a lot of tomato paste...don't be afraid, it works....that gets cooked to lengthen and intensify its flavor and texture), this was a huge hit, and incredibly easy to put together. All it takes is time, and on a day off with friends on the way for dinner, what could be a better way to make use of it?
*** *** ***
Beef Bolognese
adapted from Insieme in Manhattan

ingredients:
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 ½ cups finely chopped onions
¾ cup finely chopped celery
¾ cup finely chopped carrots
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 clove garlic, minced
1 pound ground beef
1/3 pound pancetta, finely chopped
1 1/3 cups tomato paste
1 ½ cups whole milk
2 cups red wine
2 2/3 cups whole canned tomatoes, drained of juices and torn
4 cups meat stock
Penne or pappardelle, cooked al dente
Grated Parmesan.

method:
1. Combine the butter and olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan set over medium heat. When hot, add the onions, celery and carrots, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables start to brighten in color, about 20 minutes.

2. Add the garlic, and just before it starts to brown, add the beef and pancetta. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is thoroughly browned, about 25 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes. Add the milk and cook at a lively simmer until the milk is absorbed, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until the pan is almost dry. Stir in the tomatoes and the stock, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 3 hours (I let mine go for 3-1/2 hours), stirring occasionally. Skim the fat off the surface as it cooks. Toss with al dente penne or pappardelle and serve with grated Parmesan.
Serves 6.
The sauce, after about 90 minutes...looking good!

Mom knows best: Vintage Chicken

There are some things in life that just feel so comfortable...you know, those special things that just make you feel good. A pile of blankets on top of you as you snuggle in bed on a chilly late winter morning. A conversation with a trusted old friend. The soft feel of our dog Chopper's fur after he's just had a bath. Spending $80,000 on hookers over a six month span if you're the governor of major northeastern state. Everyone has their thing that does it. Mine of course tend to skew heavily toward the food side of the comfort scale. Luckily most of my friends feel the same way, and so it was that w and I found ourselves over at our good friends J&K's house a couple of nights ago, where they put together a fabulous meal. I'm always so glad I have the friends I do. Everyone in our circle, without exception, is a great cook. Talk about comfort. No need to lie about how good that overcooked pork loin was. Anyway, J made a fantastic braised chicken dish that his mother used to make when he was a kid. He still uses her original hand-typed recipe card. Recipe cards....man, I LOVE the old school! When I asked him what was for dinner, he said "Vintage chicken". Hm....okay. I emailed him back saying that while I had ultimate faith in his culinary prowess, that would usually be two words..."vintage" and "chicken"...that I don't like to see together. He assured me it referred to the wine that goes in the dish, not the bird...he was kind enough not to add "dumbass!" All I know is one bite of this dish (served over egg noodles) and you'll be having visions of mom, home, warmth....and a very satisfied belly!

Our host providing for our happiness!









*** *** ***

Vintage Chicken
courtesy of J's mom

ingredients:
4 or 5 meaty pieces of frying chicken
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon garlic salt
1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary
6 tablespoons butter (divided in to 4 and 2 tblsp. portions)
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup minced scallion
1 cup sliced crimini mushrooms
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

method:
Mix flour, garlic salt, and rosemary in a small bowl. Dust chicken pieces with flour mix. Heat 4 tablespoons butter in heavy skillet, brown chicken pieces until golden on all sides. Add 3/4 cup white wine, turn heat to low and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté scallion and mushrooms in 2 tablespoons butter until soft. Add to chicken, cover and continue cooking for 10 minutes more. Only a very small amount of pan gravy will remain. Add a small amount of chicken stock to boost the sauce if needed. Serve chicken topped with pan gravy and sprinkle with parsley.
cooks note: j served this with egg noodles (pappardelle to be specific). It would also rock with mashed potatoes.

Making the tough decisions

Go ahead. Put that gun to my head. Make me decide. Don't tell me you haven't thought about it, too. You know THE QUESTION: Name your top five favorite things to eat. Given that it would be hard to name my top twenty-five favorite things to eat, I do have certain things that with every bite always make me happy. A perfectly steamy bowl of cassoulet....a savory plate of osso buco....a crusty medium rare rib eye hot off the 'que. I would also have to include a pasta or risotto in there, just for the comfort food aspect. And if you made me decide which pasta, I would have to go with spaghetti alla carbonara, in all its pancetta-ey, eggy, cheesey glory. I LOVE carbonara...it always satisfies, at least when I make this version. This version being for me the definitive recipe by none other than the doyenne of Italian cooking, Marcella Hazan, from her Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, which to me is a must for any cooks shelf. I posted about this over a year ago, and since have tweaked it a little bit for the better, and after a most pleasantly indulgent plate the other night, thought it was time to share again for all you new readers. For such a quick and easy pasta, I can't imagine what could feel better than this classic. Get ready to swoon..... ********************

Spaghetti alla Carbonara
adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

ingredients:
4-6 oz. pancetta cut into 1/4" dice (or if you must, use regular bacon. Sadly, it won't be as good.)
4 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 large eggs
3/4 cup grated parmagiano-reggiano cheese (Marcella calls for 1/2 cup parma and 1/4 cup pecorino-romano, which I hardly ever have and doesn't make a huge difference)
Fresh ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1# spaghetti, preferably DeCecco dry pasta
1/2 cup reserved pasta water
Extra grated Parmagiano for passing

method:
1. Put large pot of water on to boil for pasta. When boiling, add salt and pasta.
2 Lightly mash garlic with knife blade, which will loosen the skin. Discard skin. Put garlic and olive oil into 10" sauté pan and turn on heat to medium high. Sautee until garlic turns medium gold, and remove and discard it.
3. Put diced pancetta into the pan, and cook until they crisp. ( I let mine get quite crispy, and a bit smoky, which I think adds depth of flavor). Add wine at this point and let bubble away for 2 1 or 2 minutes and turn off heat.
4. Break the 2 eggs into the serving bowl you'll be using for the pasta and lightly beat with a fork. Then add the cheese, a liberal grinding of pepper, and the chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly.
5. When pasta is done, take about 1/2 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Drain pasta. Add the cooked, drained spaghetti to the bowl and toss rapidly. While tossing, briefly reheat the pancetta and add to the bowl, toss thoroughly again, add a bit of the reserved pasta water and serve immediately. Pass extra Parmagiano.