Showing posts with label classic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label classic. Show all posts

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Spaghetti and meatballs: take that grandma!!

I'm not going to say these are best spaghetti and meatballs ever (even though they are) because I don't want the Italian grandmother mafia to put the hit on me. Spaghetti and meatballs, an iconic thing if ever there was one with deep familial connections. Kind of like potato salad, or a history of mental illness (not my family mind you...we're FINE!). So I don't make that "best ever" claim lightly. But the truth is the truth, so I have to go with it.

My great claim to food shame is that in all these years of cooking at home I have never made spaghetti and meatballs, where the meatballs and sauce are made lovingly from scratch. The other day I got the bug, even though the middle of summer in our defiantly non-A/C house doesn't usually put me in the mind of "Man, something that cooks for hours on the stove sounds perfect!" Stuck in my mind it was, though, so I had to rid my brain of the demon and hopefully end up with something completely kickass in the process. I did and it was! I looked at many versions and got this recipe off of the iPhone epicurious app (the unholy tech-child of Steve jobs and Ruth Reichl). Never mind that the recipe said it would feed 12-16 and it was just w and I for dinner. Ever hear of leftovers (as in three 48 ounce Tupperware tubs) for Christ's sake? When I decided to put this to the test, I somehow missed the part that said to roll out 70 meatballs. 70 freaking meatballs?? Maybe it's because my hands are big and the meaty orbs were a bit, um, large, but I ended up with 52 (a few of which can be seen awaiting their simmery fate at left), which sorely tested my patience. If I would of had to roll out 18 more I might've chucked the whole fucking lot. With the sauce simmering happily in the background (above right), I browned off the meatballs, which after a few fell victim to careless turning left me with 48. Which was plenty. After the whole lot was combined and cooked together, the bowl of luscious Italian comfort food that resulted was incredible. The sauce was light and fresh, not that dark, heavy, too-sweet slop that often passes for "rich" spaghetti sauce (note how simple the sauce is, and NO tomato paste needed, thank you). As expected, the next day the sauce was even better because of that 24 hour food miracle called "flavor melding". And I am quite content to know that sitting in my freezer are three more big dinners to come. To all Italian grandmothers: I am ready to throw down!!
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Spaghetti and Meatballs
from Gourmet | January 2009
Yield: Makes 12 to 16 servings
Active Time: 2 hr
Total Time: 3 hr

ingredients:
For tomato sauce:
6 (28-ounce) cans whole tomatoes in juice (preferably San Marzano)
2 medium onions, chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

For meatballs:
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 cups torn day-old Italian bread
3 cups whole milk
6 large eggs
2 cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/4 pound)
1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup finely chopped oregano or 1 teaspoon dried, crumbled
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 1/2 pounds ground veal
1 1/2 pounds ground pork
1 1/2 pounds ground beef (not lean)
1 cup olive or vegetable oil

For pasta:
2 pounds dried spaghetti

Accompaniment: grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Equipment: a 12-to 16-quart nonreactive heavy pot or 2 smaller nonreactive pots; a 6-to 8-quart pasta pot with a pasta/steamer insert for cooking spaghetti in 2 batches.

method:
Make sauce:
Drain tomatoes, reserving juice in a large bowl. Crush tomatoes with your hands and add to juice.

Cook onions in oil in pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomatoes with their juice, 4 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Simmer sauce, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Season with salt.

Make meatballs while sauce simmers:
Cook onions in extra-virgin olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl to cool.

Soak bread in milk in another bowl until soft, about 5 minutes. Firmly squeeze bread to remove excess milk, discarding milk.

Stir together cooled onion mixture, bread, eggs, parmesan, parsley, oregano, lemon zest, 51/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 1/2 teaspoon pepper until combined. Add meats to bread mixture, gently mixing with your hands until just combined (do not overmix).

Form meat mixture into about 70 (1 1/2-inch) balls with dampened hands, arranging meatballs on 2 large baking sheets or in shallow baking pans.

Heat olive or vegetable oil (1 cup) in a 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown meatballs in 4 or 5 batches (without crowding), turning frequently, about 5 minutes per batch. Return to baking sheets.

Add meatballs to sauce and gently simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes. (If pot is not large enough, divide meatballs and sauce between 2 pots.)

Prepare pasta:

Cook spaghetti in 2 batches in pasta insert in boiling salted water (3 tablespoon salt for 6 qt water) until just al dente, draining and tossing each batch with some of sauce in a large serving dish.

Serve with meatballs, remaining sauce, and grated cheese.

Cooks' notes:
•Meatballs can be made and simmered in sauce 5 days ahead and chilled (covered once cool).
•Meatballs with sauce can be frozen in an airtight container or heavy-duty sealable bags up to 3 months.◊

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

A web of refreshment: the White Spider cocktail!

I was remarkable thirsty last night as I was pondering getting dinner ready. I had just cleaned up after a post-work run (How do you think I eat and drink as much as I do? Pact with the devil? Good genes help, but man, you gotta exercise!) and was in a cocktail mood. How unusual, I know. I'm in that mood as often as GWB is in a democracy spreading mood. Anyway, I knew I had some extra lemons laying about needing juicing, and something tart and slightly sweet sounded just about perfect . None of my usuals were what I wanted. Negroni? Nah. Martini? Not now. Hendrick's gimlet? Close, but I had lemons, not limes. So I jumped on one of my favorite drinks sites, drinkboy, where you can look up drinks by ingredient. I scrolled through their "lemon" suggestions, and came across this little gem that sounded just about perfect. A White Spider? I know, I've never heard of it either. I did a little further research and found this (with a slightly different recipe than below) on the Saveur magazine website: "London-based fashion journalists used to order this old-style cocktail at the Blue Bar of New York's famed Algonquin Hotel." Hm, anything good enough for old-school fashionistas has got to be good enough for me. And it turned out to be exactly what I wanted! Of course, any cocktail starting with gin gets me halfway there. And the slight citrus sweetness from the Cointreau and simple syrup perfectly offset the lemon juice twang. Fast, easy, and delicious. Here's to the old school!
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White Spider

ingredients:
1 ounce Gin
1 ounce Lemon Juice
1/2 ounce Cointreau
1 tsp Simple Syrup (for syrup boil 1/4 cup sugar with 1/4 cup water until sugar dissolves, then cool)

method:
Combine ingredients with ice in cocktail shaker. Give it a few vigorous shakes and strain into a cocktail glass.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Cocktail classic: The Manhattan

Every other week (when I remember) I check out Jason Wilson's spirits column in the Washington Post website. He has an interesting takes on current drink trends, as well well as...and I find these even more in tune with my old school cocktail ethic...regular commentary on classic cocktails.

In his July 9th column, he had this to say about the drink that along with the gin martini is at the pinnacle of the cocktail pyramid, the legend that is the Manhattan. My favorite passage from this day's ramblings comes after he reports on a cocktail tasting in D.C. where various local bar talent were trying to outmix each other using, among other things "rose hips, yuzu juice, truffle oil, tarragon soda, homemade celery bitters, Sichuan pepper, tonka bean syrup and cherrywood-smoked white pepper meringue." He followed that list of unnecessary bar fluffery with this perfectly stated observation which I completely agree with: "Creativity is to be admired, and it's certainly exciting to fancy oneself a "bar chef." Maybe I'm just a classicist at heart, but a lot of contemporary cocktails bring to mind Robert Frost's assertion that writing free-verse poetry is like playing tennis without a net."

Now you all have some knowledge of my reverence for and love of a perfect gin martini. Hell, all things gin get my mind wandering off the the nearest bar stool. But being a cocktailista who embraces diversity, I also have been known to sip contentedly at a deliciously coppertoned Manhattan. I usually reserve it for the cooler fall and winter months, but after reading Jason's prose, I may have to get in touch with my rye side tonight!

You can find my house version...I think I'll call it the 1309 Manhattan since all drinks seem to need names now...which I humbly think is the best you'll ever roll across your tastebuds by clicking right here. Below is Jason's recipe for his Perfect Manhattan, and check out the column for yet another option.
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Perfect Manhattan
from Jason Wilson

ingredients:
Ice
1 1/2 to 2 ounces good-quality bourbon, such as Russell's Reserve, Woodford Reserve or Maker's Mark
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
1/2 ounce dry vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 maraschino cherry, for garnish

directions:
Fill a mixing glass two-thirds full with ice. Add the bourbon to taste, the vermouths and the bitters. Stir vigorously for 30 seconds, then strain into cocktail (martini) glass. Garnish with the cherry.

picture from the Washington Post

Monday, June 30, 2008

A cocktail classic re(de)fined!


Just so you know, there's been a ton of stuff going on in my world that has precluded regular posting. Sometimes things come out at you out of the blue that leave you spinning. Or at the very least in need a nice refreshing adult beverage! Which is why today's post is very applicable to current situation, and has been a huge help in getting my feet grounded and my mind adjusted.

The sidecar is one of the old school classics of cocktail culture. Traditionally a mix of brandy, Cointreau, and lemon juice. Sweet and tart, the two things that go great together, in one lovely drink. Lately w and I have been enjoying our own take on this standby, owing to her dislike of regular brandy and my continuing infatuation with my Meyer lemon tree. We've dumped the regular brandy in favor of Clear Creek Distillery's Pear Brandy and are using the slightly sweeter yet still sour Meyer lemons instead of the standard citrus. Relaxing, refreshing, rejuvenating. The three R's for right thinking adults!!
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Pear Brandy and Meyer Lemon Sidecar

ingredients:
1 oz Clear Creek Pear Brandy (or other good brand)
3/4 oz Cointreau
3/4 oz fresh squeezed Meyer lemon juice
Small amount superfine sugar spread on salad plate

method:
After squeezing Meyer lemon juice, run the rind around the rim of your favorite martini glass. Dip rim of glass in superfine sugar and slowly spin to coat. Set aside. Fill cocktail shaker half full with ice. Add brandy, Cointreau, and lime juice. Shake vigorously. Strain into martini glass. Garnish with lemon twist or circle. Sip, enjoy!