Paris, pt.3...you can never go back

It started out with such promise. My birthday, a beautiful, sunny. 70+ degree day. A morning at d'Aligre market salivating over the produce displays that practically vibrate with color, the fromagerie and charcuterie counters, wonderful pastries on the walk back to the apartment. Then lunch.......a long ride out to the edges of the 18th arrondisement to Le Trois Freres, a place the Time Out guide gushed about as being a fabulous deal. No it wasn’t. Average couscous, my plat which consisted of mashed potatoes and ground beef in a barely seasoned tomato sauce. A pichet of well below average rosé. I couldn’t get out fast enough. Then a stroll up to the Sacre Couer, which remains a beautiful, iconic monument with one of a the best views in the city, but with holiday hordes of people crowding around, trash strewn around everywhere as if civic pride was a distant memory, it was a short stay.

We wandered back down the hill, wandered some more, thankfully ending up on the Rue des Rosiers in the Marais. Rosiers remains the center of the Jewish quarter, holding on stubbornly despite the encroaching high end boutiques that are creeping in from all sides. Plus, after the disaster that was lunch, I desperately needed the always satisfyingly perfect falafel from L’as du Fallafel, my favorite spot for this bargain bite, a place I go whenever I’m here, about $5 for an overflowing pita that is drippingly good. I love that!
Later that evening, I had planned my birthday dinner at a place I went to twice during last years visit because I was so taken with it, and adored it both times, Juan et Juanita, a trendy, hip place that had imaginative, expertly prepared dishes. We were meeting our friends who own Castagna in Portland, Monique and The Handsome One, who are also here on holiday. By now you may have noticed the lack of pictures. Much to my surprise, and chagrin, J et J was a major disappointment. The food was okay, good but not near what I remember. Owner Carine was welcoming as always, but the service was distracted, perhaps owing to a birthday party...not even mine!...that was taking up about two-thirds of the place. This may explain the food and service issue, but still it was a large letdown. The best thing was my foie gras appetizer...and yes I’m going to eat it every day....and w's duck confit tagine, which was outstanding. We even passed on dessert...

So, three more days, six more meals....the pressure is on!

Saumon aux Lentilles: my sort of French vacation

I suppose it's a case of absence makes the heart grow fonder. Or perhaps it's the more selfish but very American "If I can't have it, I want it". I any event, I find my thoughts lately wandering overseas and all those places I won't be able to see for a couple of years while C-boy (hopefully...please God) grows more travel able. Of course with me I only have to have a glimmer of France, particularly Paris, in my head and I immediately start wandering in my mind and appetite. Strolling around the Marais, stopping here and there for café au lait and brioche. Making a mid-afternoon fueling stop at L'as du Fallafel for one of their out of this world falafels. Taking in the solemn and celebratory beauty of the L’église Saint-Eustache, my favorite Parisian church. Of course dinner at a cozy bistro is never far away....except for now.

So I have to satisfy some of my needs at home. Lots of French wine, for sure. And if I happen to have a deserving bottle of Bourgogne Blanc calling my name, then what better to pair it with than a classic of French cooking, Saumon aux Lentilles. This is so simple, just a fresh salmon fillet topped with a mustard-herb butter, resting on a bed of French green lentils. In these days of unsatisfied wanderlust, I'll take my vacations where I can find them, even at my dinner table!
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Saumon aux Lentilles
from epicurious/Gourmet Magazine

ingredients:
For mustard herb butter-
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

For lentils-
1 cup French green lentils
4 cups water
2 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 to 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

For salmon-
4 (6-ounce) pieces skinless salmon fillet
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

method:
1-Mustard-Herb Butter:
Stir together all ingredients with 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

2-Cook lentils:
Bring lentils, water, and 3/4 teaspoon salt to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until lentils are just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking liquid, then drain lentils. While lentils cook, chop leeks, then wash. Cook leeks in butter in a heavy medium skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add lentils with reserved cooking liquid to leeks along with 3 tablespoons mustard-herb butter and cook, stirring, until lentils are heated through and butter is melted. Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and keep warm, covered.

3-Sauté salmon while leeks cook:
Pat salmon dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper (total). Heat butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then sauté salmon, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes total.

Serve salmon, topped with remaining mustard-herb butter, over lentils.