EAT.DRINK.THINK.

First Bite PDX: The Woodsman Tavern

2011-10-20T15:46:00.000-07:00

If that ineffable thing called "feel" is any indication, then the new Woodsman Tavern on SE 46th and Division is in for a good ride. I went with my friend DOR last night, and immediately on walking in got hit with plenty of good vibe. Dark wood paneling, exposed brick walls, white painted wood ceiling, lumberjack themed art on the walls (and flannel on the waiters!), and lights dimmed to a burnished glow all lend a cozy feel. You walk in with the bar stretching out right in front of you, dining areas to the left and right, and even with a full house and people waiting it wasn't too loud. After a quick hello to a few people I knew who were already dining, I gratefully wrapped my lips around a perfect rye Manhattan made by bartender Evan Zimmerman, who was a good get for Woodsman owner/Stumptown Coffee magnate Duane Sorenson.

Smart restaurants, when telling prospective diners there's going to be a wait, always overestimate the time. First it saves grief all around if the wait actually is that long, and if you seat someone sooner than they expect you're halfway to a happy customer before they've had a bite. In our case the estimated 45 wait was actually a much appreciated 30 minutes. We were seated at one of two taller two tops along the wall facing the bar. Not optimal seats, especially if you're someone above 6', as the shelf that juts out from the wall is uncomfortably close, not to mention plants hanging down in front of my face. A little manual adjust solved the foliage problem, but the shelf needs some more thought. We started with the much talked about Domestic Ham Plate ($18). It usually features three different artisan hams from around the U.S., but that night they were out of the Benton's ham. The prosciutto-like La Quercia from Norwalk, Iowa and the milder and saltier Johnston County ham from Smithfield, N.C. were both exceptional. We also had a plate of the Grilled Cauliflower ($9) sitting on a cauliflower purée and topped with thin sliced ham and a squeeze of lemon and sprinkling of pistachios. This really worked, the smoky tender cauliflower with the salty sweet ham a perfect pairing. We were washing down these first few bites with a bottle of the 2008 Palacio Bierzo "Petalos" which I was happy to see on their very reasonably priced wine list. There are a slew of great bottles to be had here for under-$40 on the Woodsman list.

After that promising start we ventured to the main events, in my case a beautifully tender and fatty Pork Loin with shell bean ragout and chili sauce ($26). Perfectly cooked, almost fork tender, dripping juice, and seasoned just right this was one of the best pork loin entrées I've had in a long, long time. DOR had the Skirt Steak with french fries and béarnaise butter ($21), the Woodsman version of the bistro classic steak frites. The steak itself was a bright red medium rare, but really could have used a blast of heat to crust the outside of the meat. It came off kind of limp and underwhelming. The fries suffered the same fate, being unexceptional, almost soggy and lacking texture inside and out. This was only opening day +2 for Woodsman, and with the rest of dinner going so well, I can only assume this is a kitchen finding its feet. We also ordered a bottle of Burle Gigondas, a personal favorite of both of ours, which I think is a steal on their list for $36 a pop. The best of the south of France, big and gutsy and versatile enough to work with almost anything (also if you're inclined check out this French video of winemaking at Burle. I have no idea what they're saying, but having been there and met Damien it's pretty cool to watch). Along with the main plates we ordered two sides, one a relatively uninspired dish of stewed green beans ($4), the other an absurdly delicious savory bread pudding ($6) that was studded with mushrooms and seemingly soaked in butter. Mushrooms, butter, and bread...a very dangerous combination when it's this good, because it is absolutely crave worthy.

We finished with a ginger cake which was fine. It may have been very good, actually, but after the indulgence we had prior it was probably an unneeded overkill. All in all I will definitely look forward to a return visit as there's a much more temptation to explore on the talented chef Jason Barwikowski's menu. Jason's kitchen, for being so new and getting hammered this night, kept up the pace and all of our food came out in a timely manner, which speaks very well of him and his crew and bodes well for future visits. The service was equally up to the task, and it was nice to see Duane watching over it all from the corner. He's a great guy, and if you get a chance to talk with him you'll get a warm welcome. The place was buzzing the whole time we were there, and it seems Duane is getting much love from the food community as Ben Dyer of Laurelhurst Market, David Anderson from Genoa, and Barista coffee owner Billy Wilson were among the throngs.

Fresh Corn & Pancetta Risotto: 'tis the season!

2011-09-19T13:15:00.000-07:00

There's a time and a place for everything, and the time has never been better for this incredibly satisfying risotto. You may have noticed a few ears of corn being offered for sale out right about now? If you haven't then you obviously have been a shut in for the last three weeks. Like fresh tomatoes warm off the vine, corn is never better than you'll get it in late summer/early fall. I picked up three ears at our local market for about a buck. If there's a more satisfying way to spend a dollar I haven't heard of it! I knew immediately what I was going to do with them. Risotto is the perfect thing for me to be making at home right now since we're still in "moving phase", getting into our new house and getting the old one ready for listing. Simple is definitely the mantra right now, and nothing could be simpler or tastier than this dish. It takes about 10 or 15 minutes to prep, maybe 25 to cook, and then you can take all the time in the world to linger over the incredibly delicious results!
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Fresh Corn & Pancetta Risotto
an E.D.T original

ingredients:
3 ears fresh corn on the cob
4 oz. pancetta, diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1-1/2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine
5 cups chicken broth/stock (approx.)
1/2 stick butter (optional but a really good idea)
grated parmagiano-reggiano

method:
1- Shuck the ears of corn, removing as much of the silk as you can. Take your chefs knife and cutting as closely to the base of the kernels as possible, slice them top to bottom into a bowl. It's super easy, but if you haven't done it before click here for a great tutorial. You should end up with about two cups of kernels. Set aside.

2- Heat medium sized skillet over med-high heat, add pancetta and cook until semi-crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain off all but about two tablespoons of fat and set skillet aside.

3- Put chicken broth in a 3 quart saucepan and heat to a simmer. In a medium saucepan add olive oil and butter and heat over medium heat until butter is melted. Add onion and saute until it is softened, about 6 or 7 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat for about 1 minute. Add white wine and stir until almost all of the wine is absorbed. Then start adding broth about 3/4 cup at a time, stirring all the while, until the rice is just al dente (or whatever texture you prefer). Reheat pancetta and add it (along with its delicious pork fat!) and the corn to the pan and stir to combine. Add butter and stir until melted, then ladle risotto into bowls/plates. Top with grated parmagiano and serve.

wine pairing note: I was most fortunate to have a random bottle of 2001 Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru white burgundy rolling about the cellar. It was chardonnay at its most sublime! Assuming not everyone has such liquid wonder available, I would still highly recommend you find a more reasonably priced white burgundy (or other not overly-oaked chardonnay), maybe a 2007 or 2009 Viré-Clessé or good Macon from those same vintages. Both '07 and '09 were warm years, and the rich fruit, with still young acids, would be great with the richness and vibrancy of the corn.

Hail to The Chief: El Presidente cocktail

2011-09-01T11:20:00.000-07:00

If you thought booze was any less susceptible faddism than any other thing in your life, think again. Case in point is the current affaire d'amour many bartenders are having with rum. Long forgotten and now popping up everywhere, not just on bar menus but on the front of the bar's themselves (here in PDX we have bartender extraordinaire Kevin Ludwig's new and very cool booze boite Rum Club), Rum is having its 15 minutes. Long ignored is the fact that rum has a long and storied history as a main ingredient in many a pre-prohibition cocktail.

For those who have forgotten their drink history, may I suggest you immediately run out and buy a copy of the Washington Post drinks columnist ("Drinks columnist"...I should sue my college academic adviser for negligence. I don't seem to remember "drinks columnist" ever being mentioned as a career option) Jason Wilson's excellent and inspiring booze bible appropriately titled "Boozehound". I've referenced Wilson and his intoxicating skill set many times on this blog (just search his name in the search box upper left) and almost without fail he's steered me right. His book should have a prominent seat at the bar of all drinks aficionados. At the end of his chapter "Of Politics and Rum" he offers the following recipe for the "El Presidente". He writes that it was "Popular in Havana during the 1920 and 1930s and was reportedly offered to President Calvin Coolidge by then Cuban president Gerardo Machado. Coolidge, mindful of Prohibition back home, declined the drink." I highly encourage you to find out what Coolidge was missing out on, because this is a deeply refreshing drink with a rich, fruity complexity. Wilson recommends using an aged rum in this drink, which I heartily endorse. I used Flor de Caña 7 year old off my home bar. It was perfecto!
*** *** *** *** ***
El Presidente
from Jason Wilson's "Boozehound"
ingredients:
1-1/2 ounces aged rum
3/4 ounce dry vermouth
3/4 ounce Cointreau
1/2 teaspoon grenadine (I found the excellent REAL grenadine made by Sonoma Syrups at New Seasons here in PDX. It's worth searching out!)
Orange peel twist for garnish

method:
Fill a mixing glass two-thirds full with ice. Add the rum, vermouth, Cointreau, and grenadine. Stir vigorously for 30 seconds, then strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with orange twist.

Seasonal slurping: Basil-Vodka Gimlet!

2011-08-31T11:30:00.000-07:00

I first posted this most wondrous of summer refreshers about three years ago. It was then a revelation in deliciousness (also a perfect use for that neglected bottle of vodka in my liquor cabinet) that I didn't make at all last year in a remarkable few months of not caring about my personal well being. Needless to say, what with my own plants bursting with basil, that oversight was corrected recently. Several times over in fact. This is simply one of the unimaginably delicious summer cocktails you will EVER slurp down. Really and truly. Even my normally moderate wife knocked back two of these in short order last weekend and came at me with a thirsty gleam in her eye looking for more! Plus it has loads of seasonal cred in case that over-used and most tiresome of words has meaning for you. For me I'll just roll with the fact that this lovely libation satisfies on every single level, and leaves me with the most pleasant summer glow I can imagine!
*** *** *** *** ***
Basil Vodka Gimlets
makes six drinks

note: the recipe calls for stirring them in a pitcher and serving them in an 8 to 10 ounce highball glass filled with ice. I much prefer them shaken and served up, so the nuanced flavors don't dilute in the melting ice.

ingredients:
1 cup basil lemon syrup (recipe follows)
3/4 to 1 cup vodka
3/4 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice

method:
Mix together all three ingredients in a pitcher. Fill cocktail shaker 3/4 full of ice. Pour enough mixture to just cover the ice cubes. Shake the hell out of it. Strain into martini glasses. Repeat as necessary!
Garnish with basil sprigs or lemon twists if you want.
* * *

Basil Lemon Syrup
makes about 5 cups
ingredients:
4 cups packed fresh basil leaves
4 cups water
2 cups sugar
9 or 10 (3-by 1") strips of lemon peel

method:
Bring all ingredients to a boil in a medium sauce pan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Let stand at room temperature, covered, for one hour, then transfer to refrigerator to chill for one hour. Strain syrup through a sieve into a bowl, pressing hard on and then discarding solids.
* Syrup keeps, covered and chilled, 5 days.

Feeling down? Lacking energy?

2011-07-20T11:49:00.000-07:00

Might I suggest cranking up the volume and playing...LOUD....one of the all time classics. Every time I hear Lou screaming and rocking his guitar toward the end I get so stoked. Plus love this video someone did with it!

Cellar report: 2002 Evesham Wood "Cuvée J" Pinot Noir

2011-07-11T11:40:00.000-07:00

Timing is everything. Sometime you're a little late. Other times you are dead on perfect. Then there are times you wish you hadn't been in such a rush, because the realization smacks you between the eyes...or in this case the palate.. that if you had waited just a little longer, say four years or so, the rewards would have been so much sweeter. Such was the case of the bottle of 2002 Evesham Wood "Cuvée J" Pinot Noir I opened a few weeks ago. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't bad by any stretch, in fact it was incredible, but I knew, as soon as I took that first sip, that true sublime satisfaction lay somewhere in the future.

Here's some quick facts: #1)- 2002 was a great vintage for Oregon pinot noir. Classic. Stellar. The best wines will easily last ten+ years; #2- Evesham Wood is one of the premier producers of Oregon pinot, and former Owner Russ Raney's pinots always need time to show their best, especially in a vintage like 2002; #3)- what the fuck was I thinking taking this to dinner when I knew it was still on the upswing?? I think it was ego that got the better of me this time (again).

What occasioned this was w and I were invited by my sister and bro-in-law to have dinner at Beaker & Flask with her and her friend and super forager-locavore Hank Shaw, who was in town on his book tour, and Hank's huntress girlfriend Holly Heyser (Hank is this dude who is really a great guy, and also someone who will never, ever, go hungry. He just did a tweet about wandering around his hotel block in whatever town he was staying in talking about all the edible plants he saw. Plus Holly was pretty bad ass, too, as she whipped out her freaking hunting knife at the restaurant table we were sharing to show how she could trim a piece of meat off the bone. Two...well, three...things immediately popped into my mind: I wish I was sitting across the table from her instead of six inches away, and please god don't let me say the wrong thing and piss this woman off, because I was pretty sure she could kill me in any number of ways with any number of implements that she probably had on here right now). Anyway, back at home before leaving for dinner I thought "I'll show him some locavoracious drinking" and went foraging in my basement for some Oregon grape based pleasure. I'd been holding this bottle of EW "J" for years, and even as I was carrying it up the stairs and out to the car I was thinking to myself, "are you sure you want to do this?" I had plenty of other choices, but as usual ignored my better judgement. The bottom line on this wonderful wine was that it was super pretty, with Raney's tell-tale cherries, plums and spice. There are "Cuvée J"'s earthy notes, and delicate floral scents in abundance on the nose and the palate. Russ was so, so freakishly good at his craft. Instead of oak and over-ripeness, he just let his pinot do what it lives to do, which is express it's pretty, feminine side. Really fabulous pinot noir here, as good as it gets in Oregon. But the tannins were still a little tight, and the acidity vibrantly fresh meaning it had years to go. Still, it was an awesome bottle. Fruit, texture, and especially this lingering finish that was just.....wow! Still (and here I insert a pathetic "poor me" moment after having this actually quite wonderful wine experience), I can't help but think what might have been........

Cilantro harvest, pt. 1

2011-07-10T15:52:00.000-07:00

Along with basil, there is nothing so pungently satisfying as cilantro. Holding a handful of either up to your schnoz and taking a big whiff is the definition of a heady experience. Having made the decision to plant cilantro (once again) in my garden and being determined to actually use it instead of leaving it to bolt (my usual m.o.), as it seems to do overnight, the Asian/Indian theme is running rampant in the 1309 kitchen. I found the recipe below on epicurious. Seeing it needed some obvious tweaking, as usual with online recipes in the form of a bit more flavoring agents (is every recipe site afraid of alienating our weakened domestic palates? Memo to recipe writers: you should be challenging, not acquiescing to, your readers tastebuds!), I added my own touches. The result? Deliciousness attained with minimal effort. And still lots of cilantro left in the garden...stay tuned!!

You could serve this with some rice, I suppose. But it was really perfect tucked into some tender, snappy lettuce leaves fresh out of the garden. Plus that tumbler of chilly rosé you see in the pic? Most def!
*** *** *** *** ***
Shredded Chicken with Ginger and Cilantro
Adapted from: Gourmet Magazine/Baita Daiwei Ting, Kunming

From Gourmet: "Many of the minority peoples of Yunnan traditionally boil a chicken to show respect to their dead. Once the ceremony is finished, they shred the meat and mix it with ginger, garlic, and cilantro to make "ghost chicken." The lime in this recipe, unusual for Chinese cooking, suggests the influence of Southeast Asia, which the province borders."

Yield: Makes 2 to 4 to 6 (main course) servings

ingredients:
2 chicken breast halves with skin and bone (1 1/2 to 2 pounds total)
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1-1/2 teaspoons Asian chili paste with garlic (preferably Lan Chi)
1-1/2 teaspoons red-chile oil, or to taste*
1-1/2 teaspoons Sichuan-pepper oil, or to taste**
2 teaspoons finely grated (with a rasp) peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon finely grated (with a rasp) garlic
1 teaspoon minced fresh mild long red chile such as Holland
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 to 2 cups fresh cilantro leaves

*To make the red chili oil: add 1 tablespoon dried crushed chilies to 1/4 cup peanut oil. Let sit for 1 hour or more before use.

**To make Sichuan-pepper oil: add teaspoons ground Sichuan peppercorns to 1/4 peanut oil. Let sit for 1 hour or more before use.

method:
Set a steamer rack inside a wide 6- to 8-quart pot and fill bottom with water (not above rack), then bring to a boil. Arrange chicken in 1 layer in a shallow heatproof bowl small enough to fit just inside pot. Steam chicken in bowl on rack, covered with lid, until just cooked through, about 25-35 minutes. Remove bowl from pot using tongs. When chicken is cool enough to handle, coarsely shred, discarding skin and bones. Reserve liquid in bowl. Meanwhile, stir together lime juice, bean paste, red-chile oil, Sichuan-pepper oil, ginger, garlic, chile, salt, and 4 tablespoons reserved chicken liquid in a large bowl. Stir in chicken, cilantro, and salt to taste.

Cooks' note: Dish, without cilantro, can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature and stir in cilantro before serving.

Funny. 'Nuf said!

2011-07-08T12:39:00.000-07:00

This post from The Bloggess is hilarious and the perfect weekend sendoff. Hope you can explain to your coowrkers why you're laughing your ass off at your desk. Pick your battles, indeed!

Thanks for the tip from GoodStuffNW!

Balance and Wine

2011-06-25T10:59:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of people asking for more wine opriented opinions and info since I am in the, uh, wine business. To honor those requests, here's a little opinion based on a recent experience....
*** *** *** *** ***
Balance. Karma. Yin & yang. Whatever you want to call it, the fact that life is always fair and balanced (FOX News notwithstanding) has been proven to me during a trip over the weekend that w, C-boy and I took to meet her family down in the Russian River Valley. As you know carving out time for leisure pursuits with a 17 month old is no easy task. But we did manage to hit a few wineries. One of our first stops was at Joseph Swan Vineyards, one of California's old school and best known zinfandel producers. We went w's sis & bro-in-law and their 2 year old (talk about tempting fate!) and had one of the best tasting experiences in Cali I've had in years. Swan has been around for decades. Their "new" winemaker who took over when Joe Swan died is 60 years old if that tells you anything. The swan zins are all about restraint, pure berry flavors, and balance. Chris in the tasting room couldn't have been more welcoming, and oh, yeah, the tasting was FREE for several generous samples of some truly great juice. Their 2006 "Zeigler Vineyard" was without question the best zin I've had in a long, long time, and it was a quite reasonable $26 a bottle. I happily stuck a few bottles in my shipper to bring back. And as you can see C-boy was quite comfortable in the Swan cellars....

Then, proving life's balance, there was Martinelli Winery (not the apple juice producer) . Not a new producer, but a semi-recent critical darling of Parker's Wine Advocate who always raves about their powerful, extracted, super-intense pinots and zinfandels while showering them with 90+ point scores. I hadn't had a Martinelli wine before, but it was close to the house we rented so we decided to drop on by. We walked in to their tasting room which was over-flowing with hideous, tasteless wine gewgaws. We stepped up to their counter, where pretension was running so thick you could cut it with a knife. They offered two levels of wine tasting. We chose (thank god) the cheaper $5 a person sampling, and proceeded to be served five tiny samples of some of the worst, thickest, gag-a-licious wines I have ever had the displeasure of sampling. A 95 point chardonnay that was so thick and oaky it was virtually undrinkable if you didn't have a lumber fetish. Then on to their two pinots, which the officious tasting room lady, as if quoting directly from Parker described as "powerful fruit bombs". Well, frankly, "powerful" and "fruit bomb" aren't two words I usually want associated with pinot noir, and these 15.5%+ pinots would've been better served poured over pancakes. They finished with a zin that was totally out of balance, too extracted, and my comment to my brother-in-law was "they should be serving cold IPA's on the way out the door to clear our palates". Even with the tiny samples served w didn't finish any of hers. Now the best part, at least for Martinelli, was the wine all ran 2 to 3 times the price of the actually enjoyable to drink Joseph Swan bottles. Which I guess is to Martinelli's credit, since they have ego-driven, palate-impaired wine geeks tripping all over themselves to buy them. Also C-boy had the good taste to not consent to have his picture taken at Martinelli! Joseph Swan and Martinelli....balance achieved.

A little chutney love

2011-05-07T10:15:00.000-07:00

When I made dinner the other night I figured this post would be about the awesome curry seasoned grilled salmon I was making. I picked up some fresh Pacific chinook at the market, a glistening pink fillet that seemed like it had just been plucked from the ocean. However you'll notice in the picture there is no salmon. No pink. There is some glistening going on in that dish, though. Not to say the salmon wasn't good. It was pretty fabulous. But what really impressed was the chutney that went with the salmon. Apples and dates, a little seasoning and a splash of this and that and a piece of really good salmon suddenly filled our mouths with a wonderful sweet, smoky, savory flavor explosion.

I've made a couple of different chutneys recently to go with dinner, and before I ever made one I (wrongfully) assumed they'd be somewhat complicated to make. What a fool I was. This recipe off of epicurious couldn't have been easier...or faster. One of those reward to effort things that totally favors the former. I can see pairing it any number of things besides salmon. Pork tenderloin comes immediately to mind. Also some spring lamb wouldn't be a bad idea. The main thing is to make extra, because you'll be wanting to spoon this stuff directly onto your happy tastebuds!
*** *** *** *** ***
Broiled Salmon with Apple-Date Chutney
from: Bon Appétit | November 1997

Yield: Makes 2 servings

ingredients:
2 1-inch-thick salmon steaks (each about 6 ounces)
4 teaspoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder

2/3 cup chopped red onion
3/4 cup chopped peeled tart green apple
1/4 cup chopped pitted dates
2 tablespoons apple juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

method:
Heat 3 teaspoons oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add onion and sauté until onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Mix in apple, dates, apple juice and remaining 1 teaspoon curry powder. Cook 2 minutes longer. Mix in vinegar; simmer 1 minute. Season chutney to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Prepare medium hot fire on your grill. Brush each salmon steak with 1 teaspoon oil. Sprinkle each with 1/4 teaspoon curry powder, salt and pepper. Grill salmon until just opaque in center, about 5 minutes per side. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 teaspoons oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add onion and sauté until onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Mix in apple, dates, apple juice and remaining 1 teaspoon curry powder. Cook 2 minutes longer. Mix in vinegar; simmer 1 minute. Season chutney to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer salmon to plates. Spoon chutney alongside and serve.

Cooks note: I bumped up all the ingredients for the chutney by about a third. I wish I would've made more!- bb

Much ado about muffins!

2011-02-25T17:42:00.000-08:00

"Dad, if you didn't want me to eat all these muffins, then don't put them so close!"

You never know where inspiration is going to come from. This muffin craving started in a hospital bed as I was recovering from some surgery a couple of weeks ago. With the "room service" offered by the hospital, one of the breakfast sides was a muffin. Now I don't expect much from hospital food, which in the listage of service food ranks about equal to the "meals" offered by the airline industry. This sad breakfast was no different, but what stuck in my head was how awful the muffin was. Way too sweet, like they were ignoring their own advice to diabetic patients, gummy textured, and just about big enough to satisfy no one. I didn't know it then, but this incident would cause me to lose sleep upon my return home.

So it was that the night I came home I woke up about 3am and thought "man, what would I give for a really good muffin right now." Oddly enough it wasn't just any muffin, but a perfectly done bran muffin that I wanted. Since I knew I wouldn't sleep anyway with such important thoughts running through my head, I grabbed my iPhone, tapped open the epicurious app, and started searching. And there it was, jumping out at me through the dozens of offerings. Blueberry Bran Sunflower Muffins. Such an obvious answer to my cravings. Such ease of production. Such high approval ratings (100% "make it again", btw). The next morning was Sunday, and I fell blissfully back asleep knowing just how it would start......
*** *** *** *** ***
Blueberry Bran Sunflower Muffins
from epicurious

ingredients:
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 cup milk
2 large eggs, beaten lightly
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons double-acting baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup miller's bran*
3/4 cup hulled raw sunflower seeds,* toasted lightly
1 1/2 cups blueberries, picked over (I used huckleberries, since I'm lucky enough to have some leftover from last season in my freezer!- bb)

*available at natural foods stores, specialty foods shops, and some supermarkets

method:
In a bowl stir together the butter, the milk, and the eggs. In a large bowl whisk together the flour, the sugar, the baking powder, the salt, the bran, and the sunflower seeds. Add the butter mixture, stir the batter until it is just combined, and fold in the blueberries. (The batter will be thick and lumpy.) Divide the batter among 12 well-buttered 1/2-cup muffin tins and bake the muffins in a preheated 425°F. oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until they are golden. Turn the muffins out onto a rack and let them cool.

Bar exam: Alice's Key Cocktail

2011-02-20T15:22:00.000-08:00

Just when you think you've seen it all, some new vision comes dancing across the landscape. I think of that often at VINO, when after 20+ years in the wine biz I am introduced to yet another grape I haven't heard of, some totally new flavor sensation. In the cocktail world the same can be said for the seemingly endless discovery...or in this case rediscovery...of some long lost ingredient. That's what I thought of sitting at the bar at PDX's cocktail haven Clyde Common, where the unusual, creative, and delicious is always on the cocktail menu.

This latest happened some time ago, where a since forgotten cocktail containing Bonal Gentiane-Quina was offered. It had gin, some citrus I think, something else, and Bonal. First I had never seen the eye-catching bottle. My only experience with Bonal had been through the classic deco ad poster (left). So I have the drink and find Bonal is instantly something I have to add to my overflowing home bar. How wonderful! What is Bonal Gentiane-Quina? The importer's website describes it thusly: "Since 1865, this delicious aperitif wine has stood apart for its exceptional complexity, delightful flavors and stimulating palate. Serious to its role as aperitif, it was known as "ouvre l'appétit" - the key to the appetite. Found popular with sportsmen, Bonal became an early sponsor of the Tour de France. It is made by an infusion of gentian, cinchona (quinine) and renown herbs of the Grand Chartreuse mountains in a Mistelle base. Traditionally enjoyed neat or with a twist; also may enhance classic drinks in place of sweet red vermouth."

So I find the local distributor of this latest alcoholic intrigue, and not only do I order it pour moi, but I also find I can proudly stock it on the shelves at VINO. Sharing the love, as it were. And shoukd you need it, now you know where to get it. The hard part is finding recipes to use Bonal in. I came across this delicious drink called Alice's Key on a local drinks blog Portland Craft Cocktails. This is a refreshing, slightly bitter, slightly sweet spice infused libation. The herbal bitter Bonal plays perfectly with the fruity, sweet-ish Aperol, with gin playing the role of muscular playground monitor, giving a foundation and keeping those other ingredients in line. A very intriguing drink that makes me wonder, as always, what's coming around the booze corner next??
*** *** *** *** ***
Alice's Key
from Portland Craft Cocktails

ingredients:
1 part gin
1 part Aperol
1 part Bonal

method:
Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker half filled with ice. Shake vogorously and strain into cocktail glass.

Vij's Cilantro-Mint Chicken Curry: is it "the one"?

2011-02-19T10:46:00.000-08:00

I've posted probably two hundred or more recipes on the blog in the last 4+ years. I've made dozens more things that didn't make the cut because I truly do care about your tastebuds. Out of those couple hundred or so recipes there's been a few dozen show stoppers. Those all too rare restaurant quality moments. Whittling it down further you get to the "Oh my f*cking god this is good" meals, which also will invariably entail swooning and eyes rolling to the back of the head. The foodgasms if you will. Like that other kind of "gasm", some are better than others.

This recipe from the greatest Indian restaurant in North America, Vij's in Vancouver, B.C., falls squarely into the last category, a "how did you do that and would you do it again?" sort of eating experience. Out of the several hundred recipes I've posted, could this be "the one"? Well, if it isn't the one, it is definitely one of the two or three best things I've ever made, fully deserving of the bold face type. As soon as I had the first bite I couldn't wait to make it again for friends to knock them on their asses. It is phenomenally good, so incredibly deep and complex. Vij's cookbook is a source of inspiration that should be in every cook's library. Not only are the few things I've made from it as good as what you have in their mind blowing restaurant, but usually they are also incredibly easy. As far as ease of prep and cooking, this would fall into the "ridiculously simple" column. To give yourself or some very deserving friends a sensory thrill ride, you must make this....soon!!
***** ***** *****
Vij's Cilantro-Mint Chicken Curry
From "Vij's Elegant and Inspired Indian Cuisine"

ingredients:
Cilantro-Mint Chutney
2 cups cilantro, chopped
2/3 cup mint, chopped
2 jalapenos, finely chopped
1-1/2 cups red onion, chopped
1 tablespoon ginger, chopped
1/3 teaspoon asafoetida (you can find this in any Indian market, or some specialty grocers)
1 cup water

Curry
½ cup canola oil
1.5 tablespoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seed
3 tablespoons garlic , crushed
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup plain yogurt, stirred
3 lbs chicken thighs, bone in
3 cups basmati rice, cooked

method:
for chutney:
Mix cilantro leaves and stems, mint, jalapeño peppers, onions, ginger, and asafoetida in a large bowl. Pour one third of this mixture into a blender with 1/3 cup of water. Purée until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat two more times with remaining cilantro-mint mixture and water. You should have a smooth green chutney. Set aside while you prepare curry.

for curry:
Heat oil in a heavy, shallow pot (make sure it has a tight fitting lid) on medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Add cumin and coriander seeds and allow them to sizzle for about 30 seconds (the cumin will actually sizzle, the coriander will just cook) Add garlic and sauté for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Stir in the salt. Turn off the heat and after 2 to 3 minutes stir in the yogurt. Add chicken thighs and stir well. Turn the heat to medium, then cover and cook for about 25 minutes, stirring regularly. Remove curry from the heat and cool about 20 minutes.

Transfer chicken to a bowl. Peel chicken off bones. The size of the chicken pieces doesn't matter but do not shred them. Discard the bones and stir chicken back into the curry. Stir in the cilantro mint chutney. About 15 minutes before serving bring curry to a boil on medium heat. Turn the heat down and simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes.

Place 1/2 cup or so rice in a bowl and ladle chicken curry over the rice.

note: when you cook the cumin and coriander the oil will probably start to smoke very near the end. Assuming the smoke isn't rolling out of the pot, don't worry, it is just the spices cooking and you'll be turning off the heat soon. It adds a real lightly smoky character to the spice flavor.- bb

update: after just having some leftovers 2 days later, this is one of those meals that while still delicious doesn't improve the next day. It loses a bit of the über-fresh cilantro-mint punch. Like I said, still good, but not quite the impact.- bb

Bar exam: Baltimore Bang Cocktail

2011-01-27T13:38:00.000-08:00

In the annals of great cocktail names I would rate the Baltimore Bang right behind the Corpse Reviver #2 as something that must be consumed. Certainly more interesting than the Singapore Sling, although it doesn't have that drink's tropical exoticism. He who supplies bibulous knowledge, spirits columnist Jason Wilson of the Washington Post, mentioned the BB in a recent column on the many uses and misconceptions of apricot brandy. Seems apricot brandy is another almost forgotten pre-prohibition tipple that in its day popped up in various cocktails with great regularity. The Baltimore Bang is one of the best uses of apricot brandy (here in Portland you can find the highly acceptable Marie Brizard brand with a little searching) I've found yet. Another perfectly sweet-tart drink that does nothing but compliment the bourbon base. The one problem I had with it is that this is one of those far to easy to drink cocktails. The good news is that like most smaller drinks from that heyday of cocktailing, this doesn't cause too much damage should you have another!
*** *** *** *** ***
BALTIMORE BANG COCKTAIL
From Jason Wilson/Washington Post

ingredients:
1-1/2 oz bourbon
3/4 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 oz apricot brandy
1/4 oz simple syrup
Orange peel twist for garnish

method:
Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker half filled with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into small tumbler filled with ice. Garnish with orange peel.

Eating PDX: Farewell to FIN

2011-01-21T15:45:00.000-08:00

Today's lesson in "Enjoy it while it's here because you never know when it'll be gone" is brought to you by FIN, the sadly soon to be closing restaurant at 1852 SE Hawthorne Blvd. When I first visited FIN about 3 or 4 months ago with friends we were all blown away at chef Trent Pierce's grasp, actually more if a gift, of how to handle fish. The experience was repeated last night when w and visited. The piscatorial presentation and creativity Pierce brings to almost every plate coming out of the kitchen is unmatched in Portland. It is cooking on a level as good as anything you'll have anywhere in town. Especially impressive when you consider that in this city of unequaled access to fresh fish and seafood, it is shocking how mediocre and played out most dishes are that you'll be served. Pierce's style isn't flashy or excessive, just a remarkably understated, but at the same time palate popping, matching of ingredients.

We perhaps overindulged last night, brought on of course by the realization that this was most likely the last time for some time we'll be able to experience Pierce's particular skill set. The highlights were many. For starters we had his always amazing Spicy Octopus (pictured), a spoonful of oceanic goodness that has so many flavors and textures happening, but with everything in perfect harmony. Also standout starters were the Ceviche which was filled with bright spice; and the Carpaccio, a plate of 1+ grade big eye tuna that had us swooning.

We moved on to section two of the menu and enjoyed perfectly cooked Cuttlefish. There were tender slices of this difficult to prepare fish which only served to remind how many chefs overcook it if they attempt it at all. The hand cut Squid Ink pasta was also wonderful. Then two final plates which were FIN's Scallop with blue prawn mousse and the Butterfish Agrodolce. The scallop was one dish that missed, the sweet blue prawn "mousse" which was a bit stiff and overwhelmed the scallop. The butterfish, however, was perfection and beautifully presented on two pillows of puréed currants and golden raisins. Spread out in front of the fish were dots of varying liquefied flavors; gaeta olives, Calabrian chilies, and two others that are escaping me. Agrodolce means sweet and sour, and this dish perfectly represented that ideal. A true wow moment, and only served to rue FIN's absence.

By the time we were done at 9:30 the place was empty, so unfortunately the word seems to be getting out and, not unexpectedly, business will undoubtedly suffer. With the he said/she said going on between Pierce and business owner Joan Dumas not helping the public relations mess this is becoming, being there was kind of like watching a slow death. It did make me all the more appreciative of Pierce and floor manager Israel Morales' ability to keep things focused and professional under what must be extremely difficult working conditions. FIN will be missed, but hopefully Pierce and his tight knit crew will surface sooner than later to continue moving the PDX seafood dial forward. I for one can't wait!

"Just eat a goddamn vegetable"!

2011-01-21T14:13:00.000-08:00

We knew the cure for America's obesity epidemic was simple....

Thanks guilty carnivore for posting this!

Chickpea Tagine with Chicken & Bulgur: Bittman rules!

2011-01-20T13:40:00.000-08:00

Fucking Bittman. I've got to hand it to that guy. I may not like everything he suggests, but every now and then he kills it. Plus dude is pretty entertaining in those videos he does on the NYT site. What I do like about his schtick is that his recipes are usually pretty straightforward and come together very easily. Even this tagine, with a relatively long list of ingredients, is incredibly simple to prep for. Literally about 15 minutes of chopping and measuring and I was good to go. And that's with bumping everything up by half 'cause I got screaming deal on chicken thighs at Costco (don't give me any shit, either. Oregon grown Foster Farms, no addtives, hormones, etc. Sure, the chicks live a bit "cozily", but even those supposedly PC "free range" birds at your organo-mart usually never leave the warehouse they're crammed into).

The end result was a palate popping, holy-Jesus-this-is-good plate of Moroccan influenced deliciousness. The spices were spot on, the chickpeas and bulgur become this decadent mush, and the chicken practically fell off the bone before being shoved in all its savory fabulousness into my mouth. In other words, this bird is the fucking word! Absolutely company worthy too, this one.

So if you have some friends who are deserving and need to be awed by your kitchen skills, throw some of this in front of them. It seems multiplying ingredients by the number of thighs you need to serve seems to do the trick. And that 4 serving thing below? Don't believe it unless you're serving a bunch of Karen Carpenter wannabes. This is so good it really makes 2 large servings because everyone will be back for seconds. Plan accordingly. Also, canned garbanzos were the deal, and use chicken stock, not water if you want the full flavor of this dish. You do like full flavor, right??
*** *** *** *** ***
Chickpea Tagine with Chicken and Bulgur
from "The Food Matters Cookbook"

makes: 4 servings
time: About 1 hours with cooked or canned beans, largely unattended

"Braise precooked (or canned) chickpeas and chicken in a North African spice mixture and the chickpeas disintegrate, the chicken becomes fork-tender, and everything is intensely flavored. It’s an extraordinary dish and made even more so by the bulgur, which is cooked right in the stewing liquid."- MB

ingredients:
2 cups cooked or canned chickpeas, drained, with liquid reserved
2 cups bean-cooking liquid, stock, or water, or more as needed
Salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 bone-in chicken thighs
1 large onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon cumin
1-1⁄2 teaspoons coriander
1-1⁄2 teaspoons cinnamon
1⁄2 cup raisins, chopped dates, or currants
1 cup chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their juice)
1⁄2 cup bulgur
1⁄2 cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

method:
1. Put the beans and the liquid in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Adjust the heat so the mixture barely bubbles.

2. Meanwhile, put the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add it to the skillet. Cook, turning and rotating as necessary, until it’s brown on both sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the chicken to the pot of beans.

3. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons fat from the skillet. Turn the heat down to medium and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, raisins, and tomato; cook and stir just long enough to loosen any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Transfer the mixture to the beans and adjust the heat so the mixture returns to a gentle bubble.

4. Cover the pot and cook, checking occasionally to make sure the mixture is bubbling gently, for 20 to 30 minutes. Stir the bulgur into the bottom of the pot; it should be covered with about 1 inch of liquid. If not, add more water. Cover and cook until the chicken is tender and the bulgur is done, another 10 to 15 minutes. Serve each chicken thigh with a big spoonful of the chickpea mixture and garnish with parsley.

Saumon aux Lentilles: my sort of French vacation

2011-01-19T15:23:00.000-08:00

I suppose it's a case of absence makes the heart grow fonder. Or perhaps it's the more selfish but very American "If I can't have it, I want it". I any event, I find my thoughts lately wandering overseas and all those places I won't be able to see for a couple of years while C-boy (hopefully...please God) grows more travel able. Of course with me I only have to have a glimmer of France, particularly Paris, in my head and I immediately start wandering in my mind and appetite. Strolling around the Marais, stopping here and there for café au lait and brioche. Making a mid-afternoon fueling stop at L'as du Fallafel for one of their out of this world falafels. Taking in the solemn and celebratory beauty of the L’église Saint-Eustache, my favorite Parisian church. Of course dinner at a cozy bistro is never far away....except for now.

So I have to satisfy some of my needs at home. Lots of French wine, for sure. And if I happen to have a deserving bottle of Bourgogne Blanc calling my name, then what better to pair it with than a classic of French cooking, Saumon aux Lentilles. This is so simple, just a fresh salmon fillet topped with a mustard-herb butter, resting on a bed of French green lentils. In these days of unsatisfied wanderlust, I'll take my vacations where I can find them, even at my dinner table!
*** *** *** *** ***
Saumon aux Lentilles
from epicurious/Gourmet Magazine

ingredients:
For mustard herb butter-
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons grainy mustard
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

For lentils-
1 cup French green lentils
4 cups water
2 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 to 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

For salmon-
4 (6-ounce) pieces skinless salmon fillet
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

method:
1-Mustard-Herb Butter:
Stir together all ingredients with 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

2-Cook lentils:
Bring lentils, water, and 3/4 teaspoon salt to a boil in a heavy medium saucepan, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until lentils are just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking liquid, then drain lentils. While lentils cook, chop leeks, then wash. Cook leeks in butter in a heavy medium skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add lentils with reserved cooking liquid to leeks along with 3 tablespoons mustard-herb butter and cook, stirring, until lentils are heated through and butter is melted. Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and keep warm, covered.

3-Sauté salmon while leeks cook:
Pat salmon dry and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper (total). Heat butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until foam subsides, then sauté salmon, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes total.

Serve salmon, topped with remaining mustard-herb butter, over lentils.

Chef, when the camera's on, you'd best be on your game!

2011-01-17T10:16:00.000-08:00

If you're a celeb chef in NYC, you never know when the camera crew is going to busting into your kitchen, so here's a little primer via eaterny to help you be ready. Now you have to decide which are you: Pig holding chef so everyone knows how you get down? Moody, rock star chef? Action chef?

And for all you food/resto/celebrity chef obsessives, here's a visual of all the NY chefs you read about. Not that you'd recognize David Chang walking down the street without his pig, but you never know.....

photo from eaterny

Boiling water evaporating in cold air!

2011-01-17T10:13:00.001-08:00

I have to say this appeals to both the science and food geek in me....

Let's see....-30c, that's about -22 fahrenheit. And people live in that kind of climate??

The Holy Trinity: fast, easy, & delicious!

2011-01-15T10:42:00.000-08:00

You've heard that old saying "With great effort comes great reward"? Well, sometimes, especially when it comes to cooking, great effort is just great effort. Who among us hasn't spent a few hours prepping and cooking what should have a stupendous eating experience, only to go "that's it?" Man, I hate that. And I'm know Mr. Great Effort guy wouldn't have been happy with this amazingly satisfying cod dish I made the other night (especially paired with the cucumber salad featured in yesterday's post). His loss.

Cod is one of those unheralded white fishes that I almost never think about. Cod is kind of like the turkey of the sea, because like turkey this mild flavored fish it's just a vehicle for whatever you happen to season and slather it with. I grabbed a little over a pound of wonderfully fresh cod fillet on sale at our local organic market (couldn't beat the sale price of $5.99/lb) and started looking through cookbooks and online for something new. Once again epicurious provided the inspiration in the form of this recipe from Bon Appetit. Got great reviews, loved the ingredient list and ease of prep, so I was in. I made the cuke salad first, and while that was melding in the fridge I did the quick work of whipping this together with a couple of adjustments. When it all came together on the table both w and I were pretty wowed. The hoisin-sambal sauce slathered on top provided this sweet-hot flavor that was countered by the impact of the ginger sauce that gets spooned around the cod. Really interesting, full, complex flavors that rocket around your mouth, and the cooling cucumber salad was the perfect side. Make sure you have some basmati rice on the table, too. This was definitely "company worthy" eating and if you're ever pressed for time but still want to impress, this should be a go-to!
*** *** *** *** ***
Cod with Hoisin and Ginger Sauces
adapted from epicurious/Bon Appetit

serves 4

ingredients:
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped green onions
1 tablespoon honey
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup hoisin sauce*
2 1/4 teaspoons hot chili paste (such as sambal oelek)*
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 7-ounce cod fillets
Steamed rice

method:
Whisk first 6 ingredients in small bowl. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring ginger sauce to room temperature before serving.)
Preheat oven to 450°F. Stir hoisin and chili paste in another small bowl. Heat oil in heavy large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add cod, skin side up. Cook 2 minutes, then turn cod over. Spoon hoisin mixture over fillets, dividing equally. Transfer to oven and bake until fish is just opaque in center, about 5 minutes. Place 1 fillet in each of 4 shallow soup bowls. Spoon ginger sauce around fish and serve with steamed rice.

note: it really helps when turning and removing the cod fillets to have a fish spatula, as they're a pretty delicate piece of fish.- bb

Asian Cucumber Salad

2011-01-14T09:18:00.000-08:00

Before you leave your comments, let me say it for you: "Man, would that picture have been so much better if I had artfully arranged some cilantro sprigs on top of the salad." You know the drill on why this didn't happen, because it's happened to you. I'm at the store buying ingredients for dinner, and I KNEW I had a bunch of cilantro at home. Of course upon arriving home I find that there was no cilantro anywhere to be found, but I'll be damned if I'm going to go pack C-boy back out to the car, run to the store and fight the after work crowd, just so my f*cking picture turns out better. I may be a bit obsessive about taking pictures of my food, but I'm not THAT crazy! So there ya have it.

In any event, even without the visually pleasing, but unnecessary to the enjoyment of, cilantro, this bright tasting cucumber salad was delicious. A perfect accompaniment to the cod with two sauces I served with it (that freakishly good..and easy...recipe tomorrow). It received the highest compliment from w, who said it tasted similar to the cucumber salad her dad makes (and w's dad is not to trifled with in all things Asian-flavored). Its cool, fresh flavors played off the spicy, full-flavored fish dish perfectly, and took all of about ten minutes to throw together, not counting the hour it sits in the fridge where the magical flavor melding happens. Try it out, you'll be impressed!
*** *** *** *** ***
Asian Cucumber Salad
adapted from Southern Living Magazine (proving that one never knows where inspiration may come from!!- bb)

serves 6

ingredients:
3/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
1/8 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon lite soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 large cucumbers, peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

method:
Stir together first 7 ingredients in a large bowl. Add cucumbers, tossing to coat. Cover and chill 1 hour. Using your hands, place on salad plates, letting excess dressing drain off into bowl before plating. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Serve immediately.

Bar Exam: Three To One Cocktail

2011-01-12T13:04:00.000-08:00

I decided to take another opportunity to delve into Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh's ever-inspiring book "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails" because I was, well, thirsty. Not for just anything, mind you. This particular thirst was demanding something gin-ish, as my thirst so often does. Something simple, fast, and hopefully delicious presented itself on page 268 of Haigh's book. The Three to One Cocktail was reportedly served at the old Waldorf-Astoria Hotel bar before prohibition. It is the epitome of why I love classic cocktails: very few ingredients coming together in a perfect balance. The herbal tang of gin balanced with the sweet-sour of the brandy and lime. Delicious! Plus the manageable size of this cocktail, and yet another reason to love these old drinks, promises that your drink stays cold through to the end, and is a small enough serving that should you be of the mind for another (and trust me, you will!), it is well within reason.
*** *** *** *** ***
Three To One Cocktail
from Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails/Ted Haigh

ingredients:
1-1/2 oz. gin (preferably 100 proof)...I used Tanqueray which was delicious- bb
3/4 oz. Marie Brizard Apry
Juice of 1/2 lime

method:
Fill cocktail shaker half full of ice, add ingredients, shake to chill., and strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wedge.

Drink notes:
From Haigh's recipe: "I like a powerful gin in this cocktail to stand up to the rich, sweet flavor of the apricot liqueur and the acid of the lime."
On the apricot liqueur, the Marie Brizard is hard to find, at least here in Portland, but is worth searching out. Other cheaper brands can be too sweet and cloying, throwing off the balance of these simple cocktails.- bb

As fresh and exciting as your first kiss!

2011-01-11T16:02:00.000-08:00

Really? As fresh and exciting as my first kiss?? If that's what Pani Puri is, then that's what I want! Now I just have to get to London. Check out this mouthwatering video from the UK Guardian.....

Behold, the Deviled Egg!

2011-01-11T15:30:00.000-08:00

There is never a time when deviled eggs are a bad idea. N-E-V-E-R! You serve them as an app at a party or show up at someone's door with them and you, my friends, have instantly risen in everyone's esteem. There are a few unfortunate souls who can't take the egg (all is forgiven DOR) for whatever reason. But for those who do, which is seemingly 98% of the population, the deviled egg is usually lusted over. Maybe it's the feelings of childhood memories it brings back. Certainly in my case it is. I always remember my mom's eggs, and those rare occasions we'd have them were highly anticipated. She didn't do anything fancy....a little mayo, some yellow mustard, salt, pepper...that's about it. Didn't matter. Instant happiness.

Now I may use a little more creativity than mom, because deviled eggs are the perfect vehicle for experimenting, but the results always bring the same feelings back. The ones pictured I did by mashing up the yolks of six hard boiled eggs with mayo, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, a couple small cloves of minced garlic, and some crisply fried pancetta bits, then dusting the whole plate with grated parmesan. You can go in any direction you want. Plus, they are about the easiest appetizer you can make. Like I said, everyone loves them. Just watch what happens when there are eight people at a party, and one or two eggs left on the plate. Everyone will play it cool, like "Oh, I couldn't possibly have another" while inside you can bet they're desperately figuring a way to grab one without anyone noticing. Yeah, you know who you are........

A note on boiling eggs: the key to the perfect deviled egg is of course a clean, just done yolk. One without that rim of blue-grey that comes from cooking it too long. Here's what I do that seems to work like a charm- add the desired amount of eggs to a large sauce pan and cover with cold water. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. When the water comes to a full boil, remove the pan from the heat and cover. Let the eggs sit for 16-18 minutes, then remove lid from pan, drain water, and run cold water over the eggs to stop the cooking and cool the eggs down for easier peeling. You should have perfectly yellow yolks with which to work your devilish magic.

Eating Portland: Bar Avignon- the search for "the steak"!

2011-01-09T16:45:00.000-08:00

It was all about the steak. There were tantalizing tweets. Tempting texts. A good friend told a story of being brought to tears. Word had spread about this piece of magical slab of beef. So it was I found myself at Bar Avignon last night.

Of course one does not just dive right into a steak at a place like Bar Avignon. Not when there are other wonders to sample, both liquid and solid. The place was jumping this Saturday night, as it so often is these days. It seems that BA has hit that elusive stride that restaurants always strive for but rarely attain, where business seems to run from busy to busier. Based on the meal we had last night that spot is exactly where they should be.

We grabbed two seats at the bar when we walked in. Not unusually drinks were first and foremost on our minds. w opted for the always lovely Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rosé, while I ordered a rye-based Vieux Carré off of their newly revamped (and I think very well thought out with a mix of old and new) cocktail list. Then it was on to the real reason for being there. There are any number of starters that look enticing on their menu. We had a half-dozen Hama Hama oysters ($14); the crostini with albacore conserva, white bean, and olivada ($7); and the wild boar ribs with tomato chutney ($8). The oysters were brilliantly briny and fresh as they should be. The wild boar ribs are not-too-tender but just right pieces of porky goodness that slide right off their bones and are slathered with a piquant, slightly sweet-sour tomato chutney that compliments them beautifully. What really surprised us both, though, was the albacore crostini. This seemingly simple preparation of tuna loin confit (done in olive oil), crumbled over a thin slice of toasted baguette that has been spread with a white bean purée, and topped with a bit of green olivada was tremendously satisfying. It was a rare instance of having something that was light, simple, but filled with so many flavors. I told co-owner Nancy Hunt I could have eaten dozens of them. Absolutely a must have that I am already craving again.

For an intermission between appetizer and entrée we shared the mixed lettuce salad ($8.50) with pomegranate seeds and sliced sunchoke, which was generously piled on the plate, easily enough for two. After eating our vegetables like responsible adults, we were very ready for the main attractions. w chose their risotto with brussels sprouts, fennel, porcini, and parmesan ($13). I, of course, had "the steak", a strip of dry aged New York with a potato-celery root gratin ($24). The risotto was excellent. The rice having that just so chew, the sprouts, fennel, and mushroom lightly interspersed throughout. Very simple, but with a fine richness. Then of course there was the New York. It is a hefty piece of organic, grass fed medium-rare (is there any other way?) beef that comes from, in a surprise to me, Wilson Ranch in Baker City, which coincidentally is owned by relatives of mine. Perfectly cooked, with that (and not to be state the obvious) beefy texture that I love New York strips for. The dry aging adds a slight layer of earthiness that only adds to the complex deliciousness of what was a remarkable piece of cow. It was topped with a light slather of what I think was pepper butter. We'd had so much by now, both on the plate and in the glass, that that little detail is a bit hazy. It was everything I had been hoping for, one of the best steaks I've had in Portland in a long time. Should you be in that carnivorous mood that only a well cooked steak will satisfy, this is where you should head. The gratin and side of kale (loved that kale!) were the perfect partners to the meat.

Throughout the meal we ordered a few glasses of different wines rather than a bottle, just to explore different flavors. Nancy's husband Randy Goodman has put together a superb wine list, filled with intriguing and approachable wines by both the glass and bottle, all at exceptionally fair prices. It is absolutely one of the best lists in town.

We finished this almost excessive night of indulgence with a decadent piece of flourless chocolate cake, surprisingly made by their chef Jeremy Eckel. Eckel is proving to one of PDX's most accomplished and under-the-radar cooks. He has a finely tuned sense of what should go with what. In my experience over several visits his ingredients always compliment each other, rather than competing for attention. The fact that he obviously has a sure hand with pastry speaks even more highly of his talents. Bar Avignon continues to impress on many levels. The food and drink of course. But also the level and professionalism of service which is not often seen at most Portland restaurants that seem to take more pride in hipster attitude rather than competent customer attention. The cost for all this is ever reasonable as well. Nancy and Randy have provided an oasis of comfort on SE Division, and I look forward to many return visits.

A note about the lack of pictures: the lighting at Bar Avignon rightfully focuses on highlighting the food and creating an intimate yet conversationally conducive atmosphere, rather than catering to needy, obsessive bloggers. Well done on their part!

Musings from the food and drink web

2011-01-07T09:17:00.000-08:00

Some things around the interweb that have caught my hungry attention....
----------
An olive oil primer from the ever informative Zester Daily site. Two articles, actually. The first explains what exactly olio nuovo (new olive oil) is and what you should look for, plus some tasting notes. And now that you've learned that bit of knowledge, you might want to know how to take care of that fresh pressed goodness, because that shit ain't cheap!
----------
Adobo is the national dish of the Phillipines. Millions of people eat it, and it seems there are a million ways to prepare it. In this NYT article Sam Sifton lists one recipe that sounds fantastic. Then he opens up the Pandoras box of comments by letting readers chime in with their preferred method. This is going to end up on my dinner table very soon. I'll let you know how it turns out!
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Stuck at home with a gnawing thirst, a liquor cabinet filled with temptation, and indecision gripping your brain? Fear not, oh thirsty milquetoast, because the cocktaildb is here to help guide you to alcohol infused nirvana. the Cocktail Database has everything you need to get your drinking life in order. Recipes, barware info, an ingredients list (where you click on a certain ingredient and it offers innumerable suggestions and recipes). One of the founders of cocktaildb is Ted Haigh, who has guided me on many a head swimming journey via his must have cocktail book "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails".
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The Atlantic Monthly online edition continues to entertain and inspire in their Food Section, with recipes, essays, opinion. The content changes all the time, but is always worth a click. Plus, I allways find myself clicking through to some other "real news" story while I'm there....until I get hungry again, of course!
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Have been satisfying (well, kind of) my wanderlust and appetite lately by reading Elizabeth Minchilli's blog titled, appropriately enough, Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome. What she's cooking, drinking, and where she's shopping are all fair game. She has a great writing style, and I highly suggest you check her out.

Butternut Squash Soup with star anise and ginger shrimp: yummy in a hurry!

2011-01-06T14:53:00.000-08:00

Have I mentioned my affinity for all things delicious, fast, and easy in these days of being a slave to an A.D.D. afflicted one-year-old? Oh, that's right , I just did in this recent post. Okay, C-boy really isn't A.D.D. afflicted. I hear they're all like that. Damn those developmental milestones. What will I hear next, that he's about to start walking? You know, when I mention hobbling his wrists to his ankles I get the funniest looks. Anyway, I have also meant to make use of these butternut squash that I grew in my little garden this summer. My b-nuts were one of the few "successes" in an otherwise not so fulfilling garden season. Now I know why they invented grocery store produce sections! You know, I really don't think when you factor in water, time, and worry that these are all that cost effective grown at home. I mean at our organic market they cost about $.50 a pound.

So I've had the squash in my basement, thinking that I can somehow make ALL FIVE of them last until next year. We had a pretty decadent pasta the night before, so a light soup seemed to be the perfect follow up. Then I can rationalize overindulging again tonight. So sitting at work I start perusing epicurious and came across the followiong butternut squash soup recipe that led to that (in my not-so-humble opinion) pretty sweet picture above. Just what I needed...10 minutes of prep time, about 30 minutes of watching things cook. The results were lovely. The soup was rich, silky smooth, with an intriguing added dimension, ever so very slightly licorice-y, from the star anise that cooked in the pot along with the squash. Great stuff with the crispy ginger shrimp resting in pinkish splendor on a golden pool.....or something like that.

If you're looking for a perfect wine pairing, I think a bottle of Argentinean Torrontes would be awesome. Make sure you get a drier styled one, like the 2009 Crios de Susanna Balbo, one of the best out there.
*** *** *** *** ***
Butternut Squash Soup with Star Anise and Ginger Shrimp
adapted from epicurious

makes about 5 cups

ingredients:
18 large shrimp in shell (about 1 lb), peeled, leaving tail and first segment of shell intact, and deveined
2 or 3 tablespoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
2/3 cup chopped shallot
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
3 whole star anise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 3/4 lb butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (5 cups)
4 cups chicken stock or broth (the original recipe called for adding 2 cups water, which would have left this way to thin- bb)
Salt and white pepper (you can use regular freshly ground black pepper, but I prefer not to have black specks floating in the soup. All about aesthetics, you know!- bb)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

method:
1-Have all prep done before combining shrimp and ginger.

2-Toss shrimp with ginger in a bowl and marinate, chilled, 30 minutes (do not marinate any longer or enzymes from ginger will begin to cook shrimp).

3-Cook shallot, garlic, and anise in butter in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until shallot is softened, about 5 minutes. Add squash, stock, and water and simmer, uncovered, until squash is very tender, about 20 minutes. Remove star anise.
Purée soup in 2 batches in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids) until very smooth, about 1 minute per batch, then transfer to cleaned pan. Season with salt and white pepper. Keep warm, covered.

4-Sprinkle marinated shrimp with salt. Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté shrimp in 2 batches, stirring, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes per batch, transferring to paper towels.
Bring soup to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Divide among shallow soup bowls and mound 3 or 4 shrimp in each bowl.

Eating Portland: Tabla's Tapas Hour, aka land of bargain bites!

2011-01-05T12:38:00.001-08:00

Have you noticed, amid this craze by restaurants to serve small plates and call them "tapas", how few people actually seem to know what tapas are? It's like they've grabbed this idea of Spain without doing any research, mis-named their overpriced, unimaginative plates to conjure up this Spanish mindset while simultaneously emptying their customers wallets. Luckily for us chef Anthony Cafiero at Tabla Bistro, which is already the most ridiculous dining deal in town (if you haven't tried their 3 course for $25 dinner menu you're missing out on one the most pleasurable ways to use your disposable income) does understand the whole tapas idea. Every evening from 5:30-6:30 Tabla serves traditional tapas plates in their bar area (although thanks for allowing us a table and high chair when we showed up with C-boy in tow). Cafiero gets exactly what tapas are meant to be: small, carefully prepared bites, meant to tease and titillate, a few tastes to have while slurping down a glass or two of wine or a cocktail. The plus with Tabla's tapas hour is that, while remarkably affordable )priced from $3-$5), they deliver incredible flavor value. The tuna poached in olive oil and veal sweetbreads were fabulous bargains at $4 & $6 respectively. We went for the first time Monday night and walked out completely satisfied. Six completely different tastes, one cocktail, and two glasses of wine for $52. Here's a partial visual look. Believe me, the reality is even better!

The red kuri squash soup shot with pancetta and apple ($3) with a silky, porky pile of serrano ham with house made flatbread ($3) in the background.

The above mentioned olive oil poached albacore ($4!!) which I would have been thrilled to be served at any of the tapas bars in Barcelona and Seville I've been too. Great dish!

A stellar pile of crispy veal sweetbreads ($5)
with a plate of salt roasted beets with feta cream ($4).

We also had Anthony's braised brussels sprouts with a grana padano stock ($4). He also sent out a sample of something soon to make an appearance, a gelled celery root cube topped with a fried hama hama oyster which is one of the richest, most decadent bites I've had in a long time. w said it was like eating butter. C-boy rolled his year-old eyes in delight when we gave him his bite. Everything we ate was top notch and again totally over-delivered for the $$ spent!

Noodling around

2011-01-04T16:40:00.001-08:00

Lunch yesterday was in the midst of errands and appointments so w and I couldn't be held back waiting for our food. But of course we also needed a certain amount of satisfaction as part of the deal. What better way to get it than at Good Taste Noodle House, where you know the food is going to be quick and usually delicious. They have four spots around town. We usually end up at the one on SE 82nd Avenue since we can be home in about 5 minutes from there. Here's what hit our table....

Won ton noodle soup. Always a good broth and w said the noodles had the perfect chew. The dumplings can be inconsistent, but I thought yesterday's were pretty good.

What was supposed to be shrimp chow mein with pan fried noodles. It was chow mein, but with every kind of meat. I think they do a great chow mein and their sauce and noodles are excellent, so the unexpected additional proteins weren't a problem.

The only fail of what I've had in several recent trips were the salt and pepper squid. The squid itself was tender, but under-seasoned. It and the onions and the (too few) peppers tasted too oily like the fryer needed a change out. Better to save my palate for the always superior version just a few blocks north at Ocean City Seafood.

Beet It!

2011-01-04T07:19:00.000-08:00

Very timely, and quite lovely to look at, these eight beet recipes from The Atlantic seem sure to brighten up winter.

Also from The Atlantic, and I hesitate to link to this for the easily influenced to be under the influence, is a(nother) column about the benefits of moderate drinking. Apparently those of who imbibe also earn more. Drinking for dollars, as it were!
Picture from The Atlantic

Cellar report: 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco

2011-01-03T20:04:00.000-08:00

Imagine you're running joyfully through a barnyard. The cattle, sheep, or whatever else one keeps in a barnyard are standing off to the side watching, uncomprehendingly, because this is certainly something they've never seen. Suddenly, a slip. Maybe a trip. I'm sure there are many hidden obstacles in a barnyard. You find yourself falling, horrifyingly, face first into the muck. Just as you brace yourself for the worst, what will without question be a life-scarring event, your fall is cushioned, inexplicably, by several bunches of nebbiolo grapes. Rather than wonder what the hell these grapes are doing in a pen filled with livestock, you find yourself, as your face softly squishes into the inevitable, reveling in the combination of earthy, loamy scents of the barnyard and the dark, cherry filled aromas and flavors of the nebbiolo. Not fresh nebbiolo, mind you. No, this must have fallen out of the pocket of a long forgotten farmhand a decade or so ago. So rather than scrambling to extract yourself from this most unusual situation, you find yourself wallowing in it, rather like a hippopotamus rolling contentedly in the mud of some soon-to-be-dry savannah watering hole. The longer you lie there, the more your palate is filled with the ever developing flavors, because yes, you are actually partaking of the grape and animal infused muck. Dried cherry, plum, leather, smoke, spice, rose petals. This is perfection. You wish it would never stop, because this most assuredly must be heaven. Then, suddenly, you open your eyes. Astonishingly you are not in a barnyard. There are no animals staring in wonder as if they can't understand how you could possibly be atop the food chain. No, you're at a dinner table with friends. The wonderful sensations you've just experienced came out of the now empty bottle of 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco that is sitting before you. You blink once....twice...and your dining companions can't help but wonder at the bemused smile that crosses your face.......

Guacamole de Frutas: not the same old, same old!

2011-01-02T13:43:00.000-08:00

If it's good enough to impress Sam Sifton, the NYT food reviewer, and was so ridiculously easy to make, then it reeks of irresponsibility for me not to try it. Sifton listed this version of that old party app standby as one of "of the 15 best things I ate in New York City in the past year of reviewing restaurants for The New York Times." If it's one the 15 best things he ate, then it must be one of the 2 best things I've eaten, maybe ever. Well, it wasn't, but it was a damn good bowl of guacamole. Anything but tired and played out, this guac from chef Julian Medina of theater district restaurant Toloache is practically bouncy with the brilliant addition of fresh diced fruit, sweet/tart dried cherries (in my version), and pomegranate seeds. What really made it interesting, though, and what got the most comments at the party I took it to, was the addition of basil in place of the usual cilantro. This is too easy not to make, and too delicious to quit eating!
*** *** *** *** ***
Guacamole de Frutas
adapted from Julian Medina, Toloache, Manhattan

ingredients:
1 tablespoon finely diced sweet onion, like Vidalia
1 teaspoon finely diced seeded jalapeño pepper
1 teaspoon lime juice
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons finely diced peeled Granny Smith apple
2 tablespoons finely diced peeled Asian pear
2 tablespoons dried cranberries (I didn't have cranberries, but used dried Montmorency cherries from Trader Joe's that worked perfectly.- bb)
1 teaspoon thinly sliced basil, preferably Thai
2 ripe Haas avocados
1 tablespoon fresh pomegranate seeds.

method:
1. In a nonreactive mixing bowl, combine onion, jalapeño, lime juice and a pinch salt. Mix well, and add the apple, pear, cranberries and basil. Mix again.

2. Cut the avocados in half, scoop out the pulp and mash it with the ingredients in the bowl. Adjust salt to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with pomegranate seeds. If desired, serve with warm corn tortillas or chips.

Yield: About 1 1/2 cups (4 servings).

"Bartender, this cocktail taste s a little fresh. Have anything that's been sitting around?"

2011-01-01T16:30:00.000-08:00

It's a natural progression I suppose. First came the rebirth of cocktails in the 1990s. Soon to follow came the "mixologists", because obviously who would want a mere bartender mixing their drinks? Besides me, I mean. Now we have celebrity mixologists, because why should Food Network chefs have all the fun? And with celebrity, as we know all too well, comes freedom and license to create. Whether what they're creating needed to be created is debatable. Of course the same could be said for most of the consumer goods we're told we can't live without.

This all comes to mind because of this article I read in last weeks NYT. We've all heard of barrel aged bourbons. Now, taking it to its next logical step (this is where the "does it need to be created" part comes in), bartenders at trendy (read high $$) bars are now barrel aging whole cocktails. That negroni I dearly love, which I consider a perfect drink, apparently isn't good enough. The new alcohol alchemists behind the bar are throwing it and other drinks into small barrels and aging them for up to 3+ months. Supposedly this adds complexity and character as the ingredients oxidize (particularly vermouths and other botanicals). Not to be a closed minded old barfly, but please would you just give me a fresh, well-made drink. The old classics are classics for a reason. I really don't think a light will go on in some unknown darkened corner of my liver if I drink a 3 month old Manhattan. To me a classic case of just because you can do it doesn't mean you should. Thoughts?

accompanying photo of Clyde Common bartender Jeffrey Morganthaler from the NY Times

Cellar Report: 2004 Alain Boisson Cairanne "Cros de Romet"

2010-12-31T13:13:00.000-08:00

Yeah, I know the label says 2008. That's what I have in store at VINO since there's a
chance I may have forgotten to take a pic of the '04.

When I first had the 2004 Cairanne from Alain Boisson I was sitting at a table at Le Pigeon here in Portland, probably sometime in 2007, with a bunch of my boys on a guys night out. Forget the strip clubs and meat market bars. We're all about eating and drinking as well as is humanly possible in PDX. We had probably just been delivered a plate of foie gras or some other so wrong/so right part of an animal that chef Gabe Rucker has a way with. This bottle ended up on the table because as the "wine guy" in the crowd I'm usually tasked with ordering and with my love of all things wine-ish and southern French, and also because the south of any wine Euro wine producing country is almost always where the deals are, there was a bottle of Boisson. Anyway, all around the table there was consensus that this as something pretty special. Back at VINO the next day I ordered some for the store, and a half dozen extra for my basement.

So here I was a couple nights ago at home pulling the last bottle out of the basement. 2004 wasn't considered an average year for Rhone reds, but like in every mediocre vintage great winemakers will most likely make better than average wine. The other five had been delicious, getting better and better with each opening. So it was with the last bottle. As always upon opening I got a nose full of dark, plummy fruit. This wine always takes a few minutes to develop the nuances beyond the fruit. Sure enough, soon those classic aromas of pepper, smoke, earth, and roasted meat we making their way out of the glass. Taking a drink, this has dropped its hard edges and is all soft, beautifully developed flavors. More dark fruit, more hints of garrigue (that taste of wild herb, earth, and spice that are the hallmark and siren call of Provençal reds), more velvety smooth texture that led to a finish that demanded another taste. As the wine sat in the glass after about 30 minutes it really opened up...bacon fat, plum jam, spring blossoms...crazy flavors that kept changing with each sip. An hour or so later the bottle was almost empty and that delicious French haze going was going on in my head that causes irrational trip planning and dreams of escape. 2004 turned to be quite a good year. Merci, M. Boisson!

Keeping hunger and the Boy at bay!

2010-12-30T11:40:00.000-08:00

My new paradigm of weekday cooking:
1-racing after work to pick up C-boy at daycare before their clock starts ticking at their usurious rate of a ten spot for every five minutes late (like the college tuition I'm already paying them shouldn't buy me some fucking leeway)
2-stopping at the market to shop, hoping said boy maintains composure at the store as hunger and cranky end-of-the-day tiredness start to encroach on his usually sunny disposition
3-getting home, plopping him on his play mat while I whip out some homemade babyfood to stuff in his starting-to-scowl piehole
4-stuffing C-boy's piehole
5-doing dinner prep and cooking while he sits on the kitchen floor playing with various cooking utensils and plots new forms of parental torment to draw me away from the task at hand, which is making something to stuff in our pieholes after he-who-must-be-served goes to bed.

Is it any wonder that my new cooking life revolves around fast and easy? If I can throw in delicious then that's icing on the cake. Which is why this soup I cadged off of epicurious was so satisfying. With a couple of refinements (i.e.- adding more flavoring ingredients/less liquid) we ended up with a belly warming and palate tingling bowl of goodness, which along with its ease of prep drops it near the top of my list of do-overs. Plus should your soul need some warming on a cold winter evening, this does the trick beautifully!
*** *** *** *** ***
Curried Butternut Squash and Red Lentil Soup

The cilantro oil listed is optional, but really adds a nice pop, both visually and taste-wise, to the curry.- bb

yield: Makes 4 main course servings
active Time: 25 min/ Total Time: 1 1/4 hr

ingredients :
For soup:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 pound butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 large onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced peeled ginger
2-1/2 tablespoons curry powder (a mix of 2 or 3 different curry powders really builds complexity if you can swing it)
1 cup red lentils, picked over and rinsed
16 oz. water
16 oz. chicken stock
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste

For cilantro oil:
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup vegetable oil

accompaniment: cooked basmati rice

method:
Make soup:
Heat oil with butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat until foam subsides, then cook squash, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, ginger, and 1 teaspoon salt, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and beginning to brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
Stir in curry powder and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring frequently, 2 minutes.
Add lentils and water and stock and simmer, covered, until lentils are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

Make cilantro oil:
While soup simmers, purée cilantro, oil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a blender.
Serve soup over rice, drizzled with cilantro oil.

Bar exam: Corpse Reviver #2

2010-12-29T13:31:00.000-08:00

How can you not want to make, and more importantly drink, a cocktail named the Corpse Reviver #2? Not that I need to be pushed too hard when it comes to trying new libations, but this was almost too easy. And at this time of year, all of our walking corpses could use a push as we stagger from party to party. A classic from the 1930's, this has several things going for it: 1- A great name, which came from the fact that it was originally intended as a morning beverage to get one's supposedly needy spirit revived (there is, of course, a Corpse Reviver #1, brandy-based, and to my taste nowhere near the drink this is); 2- its main ingredient is gin; and 3- it is an equal mix of all four ingredients (with an added tiny dash of absinthe or pastis), which allows you to taste each and every one, and like the negroni (an equal mix of three components) it is a perfectly balanced drink. Although I have to say better after the cocktail hour than before. But to each his or her own, I suppose. Whenever you decide you need some revivification, this is a perfect place to find it!
*** *** *** *** ***
Corpse Reviver #2

Serving size: 1
ingredients:
3/4 oz. gin
3/4 oz. Lillet blanc
3/4 oz. Cointreau
3/4 oz. lemon juice
Dash absinthe (or pastis should absinthe not be in your repertoire)

method:
Fill cocktail shaker half full with ice. Add all ingredients and shake for 20-30 seconds. Strain into cocktail glass and garnish with amarena cherry.

Marketing 101: Know your audience!

2010-12-05T09:52:00.002-08:00

That goes for you, too, Walmart!

What's your food craving??

2010-12-04T11:45:00.000-08:00

A brilliantly beautiful (bountiful?) series of photos by pro photog Ted Sabarese of models and foods they are currently craving he calls "Hunger Pains"....

Thanks to my pal Kathryn for the heads up!

I should be above this.....

2010-12-01T16:44:00.000-08:00

....but, well, apparently I'm not. So effing funny, it's worth the embarrassment of admitting you watched it!

I am officially bereft....

2010-12-01T10:22:00.000-08:00

.....at the news that the best Italian restaurant in Portland is closing. Word comes to me that Alba Osteria, owner/chef Kurt Spak's paean to the glory of Piedmontese cooking in SW Portland, is closing as of Dec. 31st. I ate at Alba quite often, and was always impressed by Kurt's passion and precision. His ethereal tajarin and agnolotti pastas and his perfectly prepared sweetbreads will be sorely missed.

Apparently financial issues, as they seem to do all too often, played a factor. They are serving their last dinner December 31st, a 5-course feast that I'm sure will a worthy sendoff. Hats off to Kurt and his wonderful staff who always made us feel very welcome and provided a true taste of the Piedmont. I can only look forward to where he'll turn up next.

UPDATE: my original post had the closing date Dec. 1st, due to an error of omission, mainly the fact that I left off the "3", so Alba will be open through the month of December. Make sure you get in to get your pleasure buttons pushed!

Short Ribs Braciole: kicking cold weather to the curb!

2010-11-16T09:19:00.000-08:00

I'm sure everyone is getting a little tired of looking at some self-important baby food blather for the last few weeks on this blog. So let me get back to a more adult theme with this perfect recipe for the cool weather season of sweaters and big red wines: short ribs braciole from NY chef Andrew Carmellini out of his book "Urban Italian". Now I have to admit to being a little put off by the title of AC's book. Sounded a little too...what would be the word..."dorky" maybe? Dork fest or not, this book is filled with easy-to-follow recipes and simple-to-prepare plates of deliciousness. Case in point is this braciole I made a couple of weeks ago. There's a lot of soul here, and nothing shows that better than this rich, tomatoey a cut of meat short rib recipe. I adore the short rib. Along with pork shoulder it is impossible to beat for the $$ when subjected to time and heat in your favorite braising pot. This recipe says it serves four, but if it's just the two of you have at it anyway and use the leftovers, like I did, for a kickass ragu-like pasta sauce when mixed with a some homemade tomato sauce. And sorry C-boy, this food is strictly for the big people!
Wine match: I opened a sublimely good bottle of 2000 Produttori Barbaresco that was perfection. But any good, fruit-filled bottle of Barbera d'Alba would be just right to stand up to the savory beef and tomato flavors running riot here.
PDX Shopping tip: I picked up some great Painted Hills Natural Beef boneless short ribs at Sheridan Fruit for about six bucks a pound.
*** *** *** *** ***
Short Ribs Braciole
from "Urban Italian" by Andrew Carmellini and Gwen Hyman

"If the name of this dish doesn't ring any bells for you, you're not alone. To be honest, I never knew what braciole meant until one of my cooks made it for family meal when I was at Café Boulud. He used his grandmother's recipe: rolled-up flank steak with provolone cheese, prosciutto, and hard-boiled eggs, braised in tomato sauce. I looked for braciole when I traveled through Italy, but it was nowhere-until one day I spotted it in a butcher's window in Puglia, made out of horse. Maybe mine is a little less authentic, but instead of having to compete with the dog-food guys at the racetrack, I've done it with short ribs (and everyone loves short ribs). This dish is great in the depths of winter: real stick-to-your-ribs stuff, if you'll excuse the pun, with deep flavors balanced by the freshness of the topping."- A. Carmellini

serves 4
timing: About 3 hours

ingredients:
For the short ribs:
½ cup roughly diced pancetta (about ¼ pound)
4 boneless short ribs (about 2 pounds), cut into thirds
1 heaping tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
1 small onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 clove garlic, sliced Goodfellas thin
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
20 canned whole tomatoes (2 28-ounce cans, about 4 cups), preferably San Marzano, plus their juice; or 4 cups crushed tomatoes, plus their juice.

For the topping:
¼ cup pine nuts, chopped roughly
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup Crumbs Yo! or panko breadcrumbs
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably on the branch
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
a pinch each of salt and coarse-ground black pepper
2 tablespoon grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

method:
For the short ribs:
1. Preheat the oven to 375°.
2. Cook the pancetta in a large, dry, ovenproof saucepot over medium-high heat until the fat renders, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep from sticking.
3. Season the short ribs on both sides with salt and pepper, add them to the pan, and brown the meat, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the onion and cook until it softens, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and the red pepper flakes, mix well, and continue cooking.
5. Crush the tomatoes over a bowl with your hands, then add them to the pot along with their juice. Bring the mixture up to a low boil.
6. Remove the pot from the stove and place it in the oven. Check the ribs about every 15 minutes or so to make sure they're not boiling too hard. Cook until the meat is supertender and a fork can pass through it without sticking, about 2½ hours.

For the topping:
1. Toast the pine nuts in a dry sauté pan over low heat, shaking the pan occasionally to avoid burning or sticking, about 8 minutes.
2. Add the olive oil and mix well. Add the Crumbs Yo! or panko breadcrumbs and continue cooking over low heat, mixing occasionally, until everything is toasty brown, about 2 minutes.
3. Add the oregano and parsley. Season with the salt and pepper and cook together for a few seconds, so everything is warmed but the parsley does not wilt.
4. Remove from the heat and then add the Parmigiano-Reggiano (not before-otherwise, you'll have a melted-cheese mess).

To finish the dish:
1. Remove the pot from the oven and immediately remove the ribs to a plate, using a pair of tongs.
2. Use a ladle to remove some of the fat from the sauce, by pressing the chunky sauce away as you tip the pot so that the ladle fills only with the clear fat. (This is optional, but it definitely makes the sauce prettier-there's about 2 tablespoons' worth of fat there.)
3. Add ½ cup of water to the sauce and stir to bring it together.
4. Place 4 to 5 pieces of meat on each plate. Pour the sauce from the pot directly over the short ribs and sprinkle the topping generously over each dish. Serve immediately.

Making your own: a babyfood manifesto!

2010-10-09T14:21:00.000-07:00

After our wildly successful trip a couple of weeks ago to the Beaverton Farmer's Market where, compared to other farmer's markets in town that happen to be located next to a city university and are filled with, ugh, "foodies", double-wide strollers and people who seem to have no clue as to how to navigate their overfed bodies in public, all was uncrowded and delicious. I mentioned in my post about said visit that a whole bunch of fresh produce from that visit was going to feed the insatiable appetite of C-boy, whose hunger knows no bounds and who has yet to meet anything on a serving utensil that doesn't meet his standards of deliciousness.

So far, nine months in (3+ months on solids) we have yet to buy any jarred baby food. So, not only is he loving what we're shoving in his piehole, we're also saving a shitload of money by making our own. Too much hassle, you say? I say are you too damn lazy to fill a pan with a skim of water to steam various ingredients and pop them in the blender? If you answered yes, then I can only assume your child's favorite toy is the remote control to your TV which is never turned off. So to help you all who need to regain the respect of your children...and their pediatrician...and for god's sake yourselves...here's all you do.....
*** *** *** *** ***
Baby Food

First off, before I give you the "complicated" recipe for infantile home cooking using a steamer basket and blender, I have to admit to using an egregiously, embarrassingly overpriced and unnecessary gadget called a Beaba steamer/blender (pictured above, filled with beautiful peaches from Baird Family Orchards). Why would I spend too much money on such a thing when I have a perfectly usable steamer basket and even a Cuisinart mini-processor? Two reasons: 1-I'm a gadget whore. If it goes in the kitchen (and better yet plugs in!), I'm probably likely to buy it; 2-It is really fucking convenient and easy to clean/use, and I am lazy in my own way. So, with that out of the way....

method:
1-Cut up whatever you think your precious reason-for-living might like, such as squash, apples, pears, zucchini, etc., into 1"-2" pieces and place in your steamer basket...you do have a steamer basket, right? If not they're about five bucks at the store. If you can't afford that, and you can with all the $$ you'll be saving on baby food...then I'm picturing your baby rolling around naked because he has no clothes to wear, and soiling himself and everything around him because he obviously also has no diapers. You can also dump frozen organic peas and other veggies right out of the bag into the steamer.

2-Fill the bottom of whatever pan you steam food in....again, you do have a pan for steaming food, right?...with a 1/4" of water. Place steamer basket into aforementioned pan. Cover pan. Place on stovetop. Turn burner to high. Don't forget to place the pan on the burner you just turned on...man, do I have to tell you everything? Steam food until very soft (and yes, you will want it softer than you like it unless you have a proclivity for gumming your food from lack of childhood dental care). Carefully remove steamer basket from pan (this shit is HOT, 'yo) and place contents in blender. Purée food in blender until very smooth. When food cools, feed child results. I told you it was easy, didn't I??

NOTE: Okay, maybe you don't have a blender. But you do have forks, right? If you answered no to that question, perhaps you should rethink this whole "raising a child" thing. If you answered yes, take the fork and mash the hell out of the steamed food, which as I said above should be very soft, until it is smooth with no lumps.

That's my boy!!

Drama queen....

2010-09-30T14:53:00.001-07:00

...or as my friend Nisu said when he facebooked the video, "This girl is grounded...for life!" Hear that C-boy??!

Beaverton Farmer's Market: Hey PDX, it's worth the drive!!

2010-09-30T10:18:00.000-07:00

Usually the mere thought of leaving the city and driving to the suburbs of Portland induces a slight panic. Why would I possibly leave this place where everything is at my disposal (except access to TGIF's and Cheesecake Factory without which I still seem to be living a remarkably full life)? What compelling reason could there be? I thought none, until last Saturday when my PR friend Bette S. encouraged me to give a visit to the Beaverton Farmer's Market which is held every Saturday in the remarkably charming "old town" area of Beaverton. So last Saturday, on a dazzlingly sunny morning, w and I packed up C-boy and headed west into the great unknown.

On the surprisingly short 20 minute drive over (that from our house in the Mt. Tabor neighborhood), we talked about how could this be remotely as good as PDX's famous downtown PSU market, which has received national press as one of the best in the nation. It is an amazing market, albeit getting almost too crowded as throngs attend every Saturday, many of whom I suspect go just to go. You know, those people who consider themselves, in a term that has come to represent a sad type of neediness, "foodies", just because they show up at the market. Not too mention the parking chaos, doublewide strollers (ours, BTW, is a slender single, small uppababy that should you be in the market for an umbrella style stroller is worth every penny. Funny thing, too: if you had asked me two years ago, before we found ourselves in this parenting predicament, what an umbrella stroller was, I would have had zero idea), and a distressing number of small dogs being carried in bags by their owners, which in any setting is a very disturbing, seemingly anti-evolutionary development. So we arrive in B-ton, park about 1/2 a block away, and wander into what I have now decided is probably the best, most shoppable farmer's market in the metro area.

I was first struck by the size of the market. Much bigger than I would have suspected, with row upon row of vendors, spacious aisles between them, and in this high season for farmer's markets everywhere, an eye-popping array of beautifully presented produce. We wandered around to get our bearings, noticing appreciatively how many more small farms were representing, then dove into the bounty. A little over an hour later, with C-boy relegated to mom's Ergo carrier since his stroller was overflowing with edible goodness, we went back to the car with days of dining fun ahead. I'll give a few of the many highlights followed by a must-try tomatillo recipe....

Blindingly bright carrots from the too-cutely named Gathering Together Farms, to be made into baby food for C-boy

one of w's favorite things, plucots from Alex Farm Produce

Always great cured meats from O.P. We took home the awesome Chorizo Rioja!

Tomatillos from Sosa Farms which were the key ingredient for the fabulous appetizer recipe below

This is not to leave out all the other splendor to be had: a 9am beer tasting of superb ale from Captured By Porches Brewing; the freshest cilantro and french radishes from Galin-Flory Farms; deliciously surprising coconut milk yogurt from Gata Foods (which I'm eating right now); peaches from Baird Orchards (some of whose perfectly ripe peaches went into a disastrous recipe for peach cobbler from Paula Deen. If you see it on the Food Network site, avoid it! We used the rest to make more food for C-boy); and so much more. This, my Portland-centric friends, is a place totally worth the drive. And if you need one more reason, the temple of all things fresh, fishy, and Asian, the Beaverton Uwajimaya market, is a mere five minutes away!
*** *** *** *** ***
Tomatillo Guacamole
By Martha Rose Shulman/NY Times
"This is a guacamole with a punch. The roasted tomatillos blended with hot chilies add acidity and spice to the creamy avocados. It has the luxuriousness of guacamole at just over half the calories."- Martha Rose Shulman

ingredients:
1/2 pound fresh tomatillos, husked
2 or 3 jalapeño chilies, seeded if desired and roughly chopped
10 cilantro sprigs, plus additional leaves for garnish
Salt to taste
2 large ripe avocados
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

method:
1. Preheat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on top, stem side down. Place under the broiler at the highest rack setting and broil two to five minutes, until charred on one side. Turn over and broil on the other side for two to five minutes, until charred on the other side. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender, tipping in any juice that has accumulated on the baking sheet. Add the chilies, cilantro sprigs and salt to the blender and blend to a coarse purée.

2. Cut the avocados in half and twist the two halves apart. Scoop out the flesh into a bowl or the bowl of a mortar and pestle. Mash with a fork or pestle. Do not use a food processor or a blender, as you want to retain some texture. Stir in the lime juice, the tomatillo mixture and salt to taste and combine well. Transfer to a bowl and serve with baked or microwaved tortilla chips or crudités, or use for tacos or avocado sandwiches.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups, serving six.

Advance preparation: This will hold for a couple of hours in the refrigerator but is best eaten soon after preparing.

Cellar report: 2002 St. Innocent "Shea Vineyard" Pinot Noir

2010-09-25T21:27:00.000-07:00

Given my usual thirst, a half bottle of pinot noir shared would barely put a dent in my pleasure center. But when it's a half bottle from Oregon winemaker Mark Vlossak and it's from arguably the finest pinot noir vineyard in Oregon, then for once less is more. I've had these half bottles down in the basement for years, and every time I pull one out I am constantly amazed at how youthful they are. St. Innocent has a reputation for producing some of Oregon's most age-worthy pinots, a rep that I can wholeheartedly vouch for. With way too many Oregon producers making pinots that speak more to the availability of discretionary income on the winery owners part (i.e.- forests of new oak), Mark has always, to borrow some '70s vernacular, just kept on keeping on. Pure, perfectly ripe fruit, a very judicious layer of oak, acids and tannins that are always in balance. This St. Innocent '02 "Shea Vineyard" was right out of the bottle practically screaming "I'm from OREGON, dammit!" It has the classic strawberry, plum, and spice aromas and flavors. With the passing of eight years, this bottle is really starting to show some secondary development. The fruit is all there, but hits of earthiness and darker cherry notes are coming through, making something that started out in its youth so good, so much better. The mouthfeel is full and rich, the finish is long and lush, the smile on my face is wide and true. Even in the 375ml format, I suspect that this beauty will continue to provide pleasure for the next 5-8 years, maybe longer. I'm all about the wine LTR, so I'll let you know how we get along, okay?

Time well spent

2010-09-21T13:57:00.000-07:00

In just five short hours, you can go from this....
to this....
to this....
....and end up with the best, sweetest, freshest tomato sauce you'll ever taste. Even though tomatoes seem to be in over-abundance...I harvested 18 pounds off of three plants Sunday morning...soon enough the season will have run its course and you'll be kicking yourself for not preparing for the long, cold winter nights ahead when the only cure is a dose of summer. I posted this recipe almost exactly a year ago, and it bears repeating, as last night w and I made up the last batch of last years sauce and it was heavenly.
*** *** *** *** ***
Slow Roasted, Herb Scented Tomato Sauce
an E.D.T. original

method:
Destem tomatoes and cut in half. Arrange on foil that has been placed on top of grill grate (poke several holes in foil to facilitate smoke seepage). Arrange tomatoes on top as shown above. Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle salt on tomatoes and top with sprigs of thyme. Place grill over medium-hot fire, arrange soaked rosemary sprigs around the outside of the coals (not on top of them as they'll burn to quickly), cover grill and let roast for four or five hours. To maintain a good temp, close top and bottom vents halfway (you may need to replenish the charcoal to maintain the temperature). When done, carefully slide tomatoes off of grill with spatula into large bowl. When cool place tomatoes in food processor in batches and purée until smooth. Portion into freezer containers, place in freezer, and wait for winter! You can also do this in a 250* oven, but you’ll lose out on the herb-tinged smokiness that takes this sauce over the top.

A day in the life of The French Laundry

2010-09-14T14:29:00.000-07:00

This is great reading for all food obessives. San Francisco Chronicle staff writer Sophie Brickman is doing a series of behind-the-scenes, in-the-kitchen looks at some of the Chronicles four star restaurants. Starting with the Everest of restaurants, her first report is on a day in the life of Thomas Keller's French Laundry. Absolutely stellar, appetite whetting reporting that will show you just how much effort goes into food that has to perfect, every time out of the pass through. Find out what it takes to work at arguably the best restaurant on the planet, with the world's finest ingredients at your disposal. Loved it!

picture from the SF Chronicle

Everything's better with bacon!

2010-09-11T12:51:00.000-07:00

Like I need to tell you that. Going with the "health" theme of the last post, wherein I sought out greater personal well being by slathering a piece of fish with butter, why not go all in and sauté some home grown collards in bacon "juice". I call it juice; w calls it grease. I'm sure you'd agree my way is much healthier!

My garden has been supplying a ginormous amount of greens this summer. I haven't had to supplement our green intake with anything from the store for months, which is more satisfying than I can tell you. Plus our garden greens have such a nice texture. Much softer than any store bought organic produce that gets grown on the factory farms that supply most organic grocery chains. Collards are like the rabbits of the garden world. I planted five little plants, which seemed quite manageable. Next thing you know I'm leaving bundles of collards, from the plants pictured at the top (that's just one plant, btw), on the neighbors and searching for new things to do with all the abundance. I hadn't done this, and I have to say "this" may be the best version yet. Sure the bacon...or pancetta in our example...helped, but also cutting the big leaves into tiny ribbons and sautéing them super fast added a wonderful freshness and a perfect bite. I would guess that even people who swear they hate greens would find something to love with these!
*** *** *** *** ***
Collard Greens Miniera
adapted from epicurious/Gourmet Magazine

active time: 25 min/ start to finish: 25 min
yield: makes 4 servings

ingredients:
1 1/4 lb collard greens, halved lengthwise and stems and center ribs
discarded
4-6 ounces pancetta or bacon, finely chopped

method:
Stack collard-leaf halves and roll crosswise into a cigar shape. Cut
crosswise into very thin slices (no thicker than 1/4 inch) with a sharp
knife. Cook bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat,
stirring, until crisp. Add collards, tossing to coat, and cook until just
bright green, about 60 to 90 seconds. Season with salt and serve immediately.

"Hello doctor, this is BB's heart calling..........."

2010-09-08T11:20:00.000-07:00

My last four dinners before last night: Ragu Antica (a post on that saucy wonder in the next week, I promise) with beef, pork, veal, & chicken liver; a perfect grilled burger & fries from Castagna Café; slow roasted pork shoulder with potato salad & bacon; leftover slow roasted pork shoulder. Throw in a few sides of wine, cocktails, and desserts. What I first notice about that list is that I had better schedule an angioplasty before my heart explodes out of my chest. Second, last night's craving for some sort of fish...anything but red meat...shouldn't come as any surprise. Hence, the picture of the broiled salmon you see above. I got the recipe from epicurious, which in this age of C-boy and his 8 month old world of distraction has become my quick, go-to source for new inspirations. It seems lately that even finding time to look through the cookbooks collecting dust on my kitchen shelf takes too much time. With epi I can sit at "work" and figure out what will be on my plate that night. This isn't a plug for epicurious, it's more of a confession of my own laziness and lack of time management.

Trying for the healthiest alternative I searched "broiled salmon". Now, I know that nothing is easier than broiling salmon. I just wanted to see what other ideas were out there. How I started out with such good intentions and ended up with two salmon fillets slathered deliciously in a tarragon butter sauce should come as no surprise. Apparently it is time to acknowledge that I have zero self-control. I'm just hoping that those Omega-3's that supposedly infuse salmon with its health giving powers can counteract 3 tablespoons of butter. At least I added to the health quotient with that pile of collard greens you see lurking behind the fillet. I'll blog the recipe tomorrow for those, which turned out to be perhaps the best collard preparation I've had. I'm sure it had nothing to do with the fact that I sautéed then in pancetta fat........oh, god, help me..............
*** *** *** *** ***
Broiled Salmon with Tarragon Butter
from epicurious/Bon Appétit

yield: 2 servings; can be doubled or tripled

ingredients:
3 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Fresh ground pepper
2 1-inch-thick salmon fillets
Salt
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried, crumbled

method:
Preheat broiler. Melt butter with lemon juice in small saucepan over low heat. Remove from heat and add generous amount of pepper. Arrange salmon skin side down on broilerproof pan. Brush with half of butter mixture. Season with salt. Broil without turning until just cooked through. Transfer to plates. Add tarragon to remaining butter. Spoon over salmon and serve.

The Beauty of the Power Game

2010-08-26T21:34:00.000-07:00

My title is the title of an upcoming NYT Magazine piece about women tennis pros. You can dress them up and they still blow you away with their athleticism and grace. Click HERE for a glorious video slide show, including an awe inspiring Serena Williams, pictured above in a photo from the same article.

The Secret Ingredient Is....

2010-08-24T14:27:00.000-07:00

The Chairman of Iron Chef America knows how to emote like nobodies business. In this hilarious compilation he's angry, he's manic, he's retarded. In all his glory, today's post is..............THE CHAIRMAN....

Thanks to eaterpdx for the hookup

Bar Exam: The Derby Cocktail

2010-08-22T17:33:00.000-07:00

With the paucity of posts going on here you might think I've been getting my drink on a bit too much. Such is not the case. Just the usual amount of drinkable...and edible...indulgences going on. Whether that is too much or not I'll leave to my doctor. Like he knows anything! Someone who does know a thing or two is the author of perhaps the most inspirational guide to better living I've read in a long time.

Why he hasn't been on Oprah I have no idea, but Ted Haigh, author of "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails" certainly should get the call. Haigh, also known as Dr. Cocktail (his parents must be SO proud!) has written a cheeky, clever, very well researched, and all too useful guide to home improvement with his adult beverage-filled bible. The book was given to me by my compadre and kindred spirit K, who is known around here as "Mr. Manhattan" (and frankly whether his mother is proud of that or not I could care less as long as he keeps mixing them up), and is a man with a keen insight into why this subject is so important.

Considering the amount of temptation contained within the liquor stained pages of "VS & FC" the fact that I have remained relatively sober...and that is a very relative term...since receiving this book is remarkable. Especially since so many recipes, like the following for a fabulously delicious summer cocktail called The Derby, are just begging to be tried. The Derby was interesting to me because of its mixing of bourbon and lime. I usually relegate most of my bourbon and other brown liquor consumption to cooler months, but something about this one called to me after a hard slog at the wine shack on an early July evening. I mixed it up, after a run to the candy....er, liquor store...to grab some orange curaçao, the one ingredient I was missing. I poured, mixed, and strained and immediately was rewarded with one of the most enlightening drinks I've had in a long time. The lime juice provides just the right "lift" to the bourbon and a sharp counterpoint to the sweet vermouth, making this nothing less than an exceptional summer sipper. See for yourself, and maybe enjoy one or two while reading "VS & FC" and finding your own inspiration!
*** *** *** *** ***
The Derby

makes 1 cocktail
ingredients:
1 ounce bourbon (or rye)
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
1/2 ounce orange curaçao
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice

method:
Add al ingredients to an iced cocktail shaker, shake vigorously for 20 or 30 seconds, strain into cocktail glass and garnish with lime...perhaps a bit smaller piece than the one pictured!

Lady Gaga for the rest of us

2010-08-07T11:20:00.001-07:00

Maybe it's my newfound awareness since the birth of C-boy 6 months ago and the conversations my wife and I have about body changes (and it's not just hers, either!), but I found this Lady Gaga parody hilarious, and somewhat brave on the part of the woman making it. Enjoy!

hat tip to www.formerlyhot.com for posting this

Slow Cookin'

2010-06-12T11:00:00.000-07:00

It was a good delivery day from Amazon. A new Capresso coffee maker to replace the Cuisinart that disappointingly died a much too early death, and more importantly a long awaited and much anticipated new slow cooker! Okay, maybe the timing isn't the best for slow cookery considering we've (finally) entered a string of 70+* days, but I have been so looking forward to getting this little bit of kitchen convenience. I've never been very Crock Pot-ish, but with C-boy and work taking up more of my time these days, it seemed time to take the plunge. I also didn't want to spend $100+ for one, and found good reviews and a great price (under $50 and free shipping) on this 6 quart Hamilton Beach model. So with that, what the heck should I cook with it? Any suggestions...recipes.....?? Let me know!

Drool on: The French Laundry menu

2010-06-11T14:40:00.001-07:00

Thomas Keller's little "family" restaurant in Yountville, Ca., The French Laundry, is without question one of the top two or three foodie meccas of the world where, if you want to have any bragging rights whatsoever when it comes to restaurant cred, you have to be able to say "Oh, The French Laundry? Of course we've been. You mean you haven't? Gee, that's too bad." I am among those looked down upon by those more fortunate. I have been this close more than once in rationalizing the $250 per person cost...before wine which can take the ticket up to $350 to $400 per person quicker than it takes the fizz to subside in your Champagne flute...but haven't quite crossed over to the other side. Not helping was this recent menu from TFL, which I saw posted on FoodDude's blog this morning. Totally drool worthy, and I love the descriptions. A seemingly simple "Beets and Leeks" is actually a sneaky way to make sure you get your daily requirement of lobster. To which I would say "Bring it on!" All I know is next time temptation collides with opportunity, I am in!!

Clicking on the menu below will bring it up in a larger format.

Eating PDX: Yakuza revisited

2010-06-10T17:05:00.000-07:00

I worry because it means so much to me. I'm sure you know what I mean. You know when you go to a restaurant and have an incredible experience, but for various reasons (none of them so good that you have any excuse to stay away for so long) you just don't make it back. For months. Such was the case with Yakuza Lounge here in Portland's northeast side. I had my first experience with my friend DOR (read the post here) last October. If you'll remember it was such an out of control meal we ended up with their burger for dessert. Good times! So after my rave to w about that dinner she has had it on her agenda. Due to recent extenuating circumstances involving pregnancy, birth, infancy and all the nasty bits that entails, we hadn't the chance to go until last night, when, thanks to that liberating army of one we call "babysitter Amy", date night was locked and loaded, and Yakuza was the target.
Yakuza is owner Micah Camden's take on a Japanese izakaya, or drinking bar, where the plates are small and meant to be washed down with copious beverage. I love walking into the cozy, cool, low-slung dining room, with two and four tops along the walls and communal tables spread in the middle of the room, with the bar and kitchen in the rear left corner. The menu has a definite Japanese bent, while not adhering that strictly to the Asian tradition. I mean, there is a burger, right?. Divided into four sections...Salad; Signature Dishes; Signature Sashimi; and House Rolls...I am once again finding myself wanting everything. But reason, in the form of my lovely wife w sitting across from me, prevails. So we start in first with a glass of Cava for w (is it from Germany as the menu says?) and a Ginger Fizz for me, which was a bitey combination of fresh ginger, vodka, lime, simple syrup, and prosecco that would have gone from good to great if it had been served colder. Then the parade of plates commenced, starting with their beautiful Scallop Tempura ($9- pic above), a gorgeous and delicious plate of scallop surrounded by a frizz of shredded filo, sitting atop a spicy cream sauce with nori. This is pretty spectacular, a rare dish that tastes as good as it looks. The sauce provides the perfect counterpoint to the crunchy filo and rich scallop encased within. Following that was their Soba Noodles ($7- pic right), which was perfect simplicity. Cool soft soba noodles with bits of ginger to wake up your palate, a scattering of green onion, a sprinkling of toasted black sesame seeds, bits of nori, and a snappy ponzu sauce lightly dressing the whole dish. Really good and almost palate cleansing in its freshness. Also landing on the table about the same time was the Sashimi Trio ($16- pic left), which comprised beautifully plated and very fresh and clean tuna, hamachi, and salmon with a light Thai chili sauce and tobiko. Sashimi this good is something I could eat endlessly. Luckily we had other options coming at us.

After that auspicious start our most friendly waiter, after refreshing us both with glasses of Cameron Winery "Giovanni" Pinot Bianco ($8 per, and the perfect wine with their food, IMO), brought out the next round. To table was the Dynamite ($10- pic left), which was described as Dungeness crab, apple, celery root, and tobiko. We were expecting a salad of some sort. What we got instead, and ate with zero complaint and much gusto, was a hot pile of shredded fresh crab (very generously portioned) that had been mixed with the other ingredients. The slightly crisped exterior played beautifully with the sweet crab. In fact, tat is what struck me most about the whole meal at Yakuza. Camden and his kitchen staff seem to really have a handle on texture, and how important that is to a satisfying meal. Soft with crunchy; sweet with tart; hot ginger countered by cool, soft soba. It is really impressive and no mean feat when you sit back and take notice. Understanding that, and a perfect edible illustration of that concept, was our next two plates: the Shrimp Roll ($10), a sushi house style roll of tempura shrimp, avocado, that same spicy sauce that under laid the scallops and tobiko. Again with the texture thing: spicy sauce and the crunch of tempura batter around fat, sweet, tender shrimp; and the Yakuza Roll ($9- pic right), a really eye opening and palate pleasing combination of fried, grilled Japanese eggplant and "assorted vegetables" (as the menu says). The smoky charred eggplant, all softly cooked, succulent and sitting astride a crunchy underpinning of cucumbers and carrots held together with a nori wrapper and superbly cooked sushi rice. Then, because of the impression it made on me the first time, I couldn't leave without the taste of the Yakuza Burger ($12) in my mouth. Once again, this piled high beauty was so satisfying. The grilled, hand-formed patty (and I'm not sure where they get it) was very clean tasting, cooked perfectly medium rare, and layered with rich chevre, shoestring potatoes, a zippy house made ketchup, all cuddled in between what seemed like a brioche style sesame bun. This is still easily one of the best burgers in town. The surprising thing was that we saw at least two tables who looked to having burgers and nothing else with their drinks. How do they do tat? Where does that self-control come from? Most importantly, I hope to god it isn't contagious!

As we were getting ready to leave, I mentioned, and w agreed, that this would be a perfect place to take people from out of town for a casual, fun, sure to be satisfying dinner, and to give them what feels like a truly Portland dining experience. Eight months between visits, and just as good as I remember. Kudos to Camden for keeping this part of his mini-empire firmly on course. Rest assured it won't take me eight more months to get back!

The Omelette Explained

2010-06-09T15:40:00.000-07:00

Is there any more classic and simple egg dish than a perfectly made omelette? I would say no, and there are also innumerable ways people make them. Seemingly as many preperation methods as there things to stuff inside them. In an attempt to put an end to the argument of what exactly is the right way to make that perfect omelette...do you add milk or water? use a spatula? how hot should the pan be? what kind of pan should you use?...UK Guardian blogger/writer Felicity Cloake attempts to settle all arguments and answer all questions. Easier said than done, but her column on the UKG's Word of Mouth blog is a very interesting and entertaining bit of food fluff. Of another opinion on how to make a classic French omelette is Julia Child. Read Felicity's column first, then watch a real master at work in the video! BTW- love the point at about 3:10 where Julia get's a bit tongue tied. The French Chef at its unscripted finest!

Perfection at $1.99 a pop!

2010-06-04T11:16:00.000-07:00

This won't come as a news flash to anyone who consumes the demon alcohol at home, but I'm guessing that like me you are so freaking tired of breaking and chipping the rims on martini glasses when you wash them. I had these beautiful Spiegelau martini glasses that run about $9 a stem. That means that every time I chipped the rim or dropped it in my sink....which was basically every time I even looked at them...my money saving drink-at-home plan was costing me about ten bucks a pop. I mean, if I'm going to spend a sawbuck on a cocktail I'd rather do it in a bar and break their fucking glass! Finally, after having people over a few weeks ago and scrounging in my cabinet for non-chipped glassware that wouldn't threaten to splatter blood from their bleeding lips all over the room, I finally got off my ass to search for a new vehicle to deliver gin-laced pleasure. So a couple of days ago I find myself out at the A.D.D. wonderland that is IKEA to buy a new crib for C-boy (FYI to all parents-to-be who are tired of being bent over by the fear-mongering producers of egregiously over-priced baby gear, this highly rated bad boy is a deal for $99!), and as I wander by their glassware section I see them...EXACTLY what I was looking for. Clean lines, a perfect height and bowl shape to show off the glories to be contained within, an 8-ounce capacity for when I REALLY need a stiffy, and miraculously only $1.99 per glass!!! Two bucks a glass?? At that price I felt like breaking it on purpose after finishing the above pictured Tanq martini. So if you find yourselves running short on the appropriate cocktail ware and want to avoid the social stigma of your guests having to accompany their Negronis, Gimlets, and Manhattans with emergency room visits, then you'd best be skedaddling out to IKEA. No IKEA by you? Well, too bad for you. Move to a bigger city. Me, I've got some cocktails to shake!

4 courses for $1 in NYC??

2010-06-03T19:53:00.000-07:00

Hell yes, as long as you shop at the bodega! Apparently not everyone in New York City shops at Whole Foods. If you live in the outer boroughs, you know about the bodega. I don't. I live in Portland, so this tutorial in nourishment on the cheap from bloggers/budding video stars Dallas Penn and Rafi Kam was most informative. And really fucking hilarious!
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My former life....

2010-06-02T13:01:00.001-07:00

Before I became the über-successful, carefree wine retailer at VINO here in Portland, I had another life in the wine business as a sales hack for a local wine wholesaler. A masochistic, degrading, mind numbing life. But at least it was financially unrewarding as well. Not to forget the "interesting" people I met: the smug, know-it-all sommeliers at the many new restaurants I called on who wouldn't know a food-friendly wine if you forced it down their throats, but who at least were rude and dismissive to me; the chain grocery store manager who thought it was so important for me to show up at his store at 6am for a wine department reset so I could watch the assholes from Gallo and Sutter Home fight over shelf space; the Beringer and Kendall Jackson reps who would go on "drive alongs" with me and blather to my valued accounts about the over-processed, over-priced, and sugar-added swill they expected me to sell. Best of all the compassionate owner of the wholesaler I worked for who was "really excited" about the pickup of Wild Irish Rose...basically the evil spawn of MD 20/20 and Night Train...and wanted the guys calling on the convenience stores in "the poor neighborhoods" to really push it because "those people" can't not buy it. Don't tell me the wine business isn't romantic.

The following video on youtube neatly encapsulates the mortification, aggravation, and humiliation of my previous life. Is it an exaggerration? Of course....but not by much!

The video is an eight part series. The first three episodes are money, but then the joke gets a little repetitive, so you might want to stop there.

Lucky 7: Shrimp Curry with rice

2010-06-01T15:18:00.000-07:00

Are you of the "simple is better" school of cooking? Me too...depending.
There are times when I want to complicate my life in the kitchen
(mainly pre C-boy), throwing various meaty bits & other goodness into a pot for a slow braise. Other times, not so much. This absurdly satisfying shrimp curry recipe definitely attends the "not so much" school. Seven ingredients. That's it. I've made cocktails that had more ingredients. Oh, and it took about 20 minutes to throw together. You have twenty spare minutes, don't you? Well, if you're like me trying to keep a four month old entertained while you cook, just barely. The rest of you, get cooking, because this dish killed it. It supposedly makes enough for four. However, once w and I started in we couldn't stop ourselves and pretty much ate the whole damn thing. Plan accordingly!
*** *** *** *** ***
Shrimp Curry with Rice
adapted from Bon Appétit

yield: Serves 4 (maybe)

ingredients:
3 tablespoons butter
1 1/4 pounds uncooked large shrimp, peeled
1 cup chopped onion
2 tablespoon curry powder
3/4 cup whipping cream
3/4 cup bottled clam juice
3 tablespoons mango chutney

Cooked white rice
Chopped green onions

method:
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat.
Sprinkle shrimp with salt and pepper. Add shrimp to skillet and sauté until
almost opaque in center, about 2 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer
shrimp to bowl. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to skillet. Add onion and
sauté 3 minutes. Sprinkle with curry powder. Stir until onion is tender,
about 1 minute longer. Add cream, clam juice and chutney. Boil until sauce
is thick enough to coat spoon, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes.
Return shrimp and any collected juices to skillet. Cook until shrimp are
just opaque in center, about 1 minute longer.
Spoon rice onto plates. Top with shrimp, sauce and green onions.

NOTE: the recipe called for serving this with small bowls of chopped peanuts, toasted coconut, raisins and chopped bell pepper. I used the roasted cashews and red bell pepper I had on hand. I highly recommend the additional options!

Grazing the food web.....

2010-05-29T11:01:00.000-07:00

A few share plates of food bits from across the internet that have caught my attention....
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Zester Daily is a site I go to regularly for their wide and varied food related news. With raised beds replacing well manicured lawns as the new status symbol in front yards and parking strips across the country, their series of posts called "Tomatoes for Amateurs" might just come in handy if you've just dug up your first garden patch and are wondering what the hell to do now. The link is to the first in a series of three posts on tomatoes, from planting to sauce, and I love how they open it up: "The best tomato sauce is the one you make from scratch. You start with seedlings."
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If the fact that bottled water is the biggest scam, both environmentally and economically, hasn't quite pierced you consciousness yet, then check out this piece from The Vancouver Sun. Apparently in tests done by a laboratory in Montreal, many brands of popular bottled water had bacteria counts that were up to 100 the permitted limit. In classic understated scientist speak, researchers called the bacteria counts "surprisingly high". Guys, around the country your tap water is tested daily, probably tastes just fine, and if you're still scared spend the twenty bones for a Brita filter pitcher. Then fill up your reusable stainless water bottles and maybe feel a little better because you just chalked up another mark on your sustainability scorecard.
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"It will begin with free-ranging and highly lubricated conversation about everything from politics to perversion and, unless you host has had the foresight to lock you in, may well end three months later when they find you lying face down in a bar in Macau, heavily bearded and with the name of a transvestite fire-eater tattooed on your left buttock."
That vivid bit of prose comes near the end of a very entertaining bit in the UK Guardian, which I regularly go to for that particularly British slant on things foodish. The piece concerns the concern many have about when exactly to serve the cheese course. Is it before or after the dessert? Does it matter? Do you care? Whichever side of the bootlace you fall on (a great line I stole from another item in the UKG), you just might after giving this a read.
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Cookbook author, CIA trained chef, food world insider, Iron Chef judge, and generally interesting guy Michael Ruhlman has always had one of my favorite food blogs. He is on a hiatus from blogging for the last two weeks of May, so in place of new posts he's doing his version of a "Best of Ruhlman". If you've got questions about homemade ravioli, short rib pastrami, or how to make a quiche (and I have to admit I have never made this unfairly maligned yet always satisfying dish), then check him out. Great stuff always!
The beautiful image is by Ruhlman's wife Donna, whose very tastefully done food porn accompanies his posts.
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My wife is not usually a picky person. She normally keeps an even keel and is fine going with the flow. But when it comes to her beloved fresh cherries, and the season here in PDX is fast upon us where they'll be flooding the farmer's markets around us,, she doesn't approve of my grab-a-handful method of shopping. She is a pick-through-the-bin-one-by-one until she has a bag of perfect specimens. I've never been able to divine exactly what her criteria are. I find it wiser to stand a pace or two behind her while she in that particular groove, as my suggestions are usually met with a (deserved) dismissive silence. For the rest of you who might want to get the most cherry for your money you should check out this story, in of all places the LA Times, on how to pick the perfect cherry. Or you could email my wife. Um, just kidding, sweetheart........

Braised Artichokes: get thee to the farmer's market!

2010-05-28T15:33:00.000-07:00

I just came across this recipe in Mark Bittman's "Minimalist" column on the NYT site today (plus watch a video of the ever entertaining Bitty making the dish). This is the first time I've ever posted a recipe without first making it, but this is so simple and reads so perfectly that I can't imagine it not being delicious. Plus Bittman has built up a pretty good credibility reservoir in my consciousness. So if you're looking for inspiration as to what to grab at the weekend farmer's markets around you, a half-dozen or so fresh artichokes might be just the thing to add to your list.

As always, thanks to the NYT for letting me "borrow" another picture (this one by staff photog Evan Sung). It made my mouth water just looking at it!
*** *** *** *** ***
Braised Artichokes
from Mark Bittman/NY Times
time: 45 minutes

ingredients:
4 medium artichokes
4 tablespoons butter ( 1/2 stick)
1 cup chicken stock, or more as needed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Zest and juice of 1 lemon.

method:
1. Cut each of the artichokes in half; remove the toughest outer leaves,
use a spoon to remove the choke, and trim the bottom.

2. Put 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large, deep skillet over
medium-high heat. When it melts and foam subsides, add artichokes, cut side
down. Cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add stock (it should come
about halfway up the sides of the artichokes), bring to a boil, and cover;
turn heat to medium-low. Cook for about 20 minutes or until tender, checking
every 5 or 10 minutes to make sure there is enough liquid in the pan, adding
more stock as necessary. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and transfer
artichokes to serving platter.

3. Raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid
is reduced to a sauce. Stir in lemon zest and juice and remaining tablespoon
butter; taste and adjust seasoning. Serve artichokes drizzled with sauce.

Yield: 4 servings.

NYC's "Bartender's bartender"

2010-05-28T09:25:00.000-07:00

A great bartender doesn't just know how to make a cocktail. He remembers what you're drinking, what your friends are drinking, what the six people behind your friends are drinking, who's drinking too much, all the while keeping the other 40 people in the joint happy when the bar is rocking. And he does it all by himself! Apparently, in New York City the man who is considered the city's "bartender's bartender" is Doug Quinn at P.J. Clarke's on the East Side. Not only does he do all of the aforementioned multitasking magic, according to Quinn, “A great bartender will get you a date for the evening, get you a job, and get you a new apartment.” And make a perfect cocktail? Now this is a man I can respect! Click here to read a thirst inducing profile of Quinn by the NYT's Frank Bruni. And it most definitely wouldn't hurt to have a Manhattan in hand while you're reading along!

photo "borrowed" with much gratitude from the NY Times

Cellar report: '01 Mas des Chimeres Coteaux du Languedoc; '99 Monchiero Barolo "Montanello"

2010-05-27T14:38:00.000-07:00

The life I lead is not so bad. A perfect example of how good it can get was last weekend's dinner at my sister's, where not only were the rib-eyes char-grilled beefy perfection, the two bottles of red wine that accompanied said meat did most definitely not suck. How not sucky were they? Read on, oh thirsty peeps, and see what 20 years of combined cellar time has wrought....

2001 MAS DES CHIMERES Coteaux du Languedoc
This was a bottle pulled out my sis and bro-in-law's basement, one they have coddled for the last six years. The Mas des Chimeres has, in the 10+ years I've been hanging out schlepping grape based beverage at the wine shack, annually been one of my favorite bottles. Not just because I adore wines from the south of France for all their earthy, rich, complex garrigue infused aromas and flavors, but because winemaker Guilhem Dardé obviously tends his family's vineyards just outside the village of Octon in France's vast Languedoc region with meticulous care. A blend of 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 5% each Cinsault and Mourvedre, it never seems to disappoint, especially given a few years of loving care in the cellar...or basement...or closet. The 2001 we poured didn't just live up to my hopes and expectations, it blew them away. The aromas had the classic Chimeres blackberry, white pepper, and dirt notes. Then when I took that first sip the word that popped into my head was "thick". Like having a glass of luscious blackberry jam in liquid form, only instead of slathering toast with it you're washing down hunks of meat. 2001 wasn't considered a great vintage in the south, but over the last few years this has put on weight, and is drinking absolutely beautifully with layers and layers of fruit, a tannic structure that has melded perfectly with the fruit, and this freakishly long finish. This is one of those crazy bottles that punched you in the palate when it was first opened, then just kept landing haymakers as it sat in the glass and blossomed. If anyone ever wants top know why the hell you would stick wine away in a dark basement instead of slurping it down on release, all they'd need to do is take one taste of this nectar. The best part- I still have a bottle in my own basement to ensure future happiness!

1999 MONCHIERO Barolo Riserva "Montanello"
This was a bottle I brought with to pop open. I told you we were drinking like kings! Barolo from Piedmont is at the top of Italy's wine heap along with its sister Barbaresco and Tuscany's great Brunello di Montalcino. Both Barolo and Barbaresco are made from 100% nebbiolo, and give you a sensory overload like no other red wine. It may be the only food & beverage related product in the world where if you use the term "barnyard" to describe it, it is a great compliment. In my mind Barolo from good vintages needs at least ten years to really show its stuff. Young, they tend to be tight, wound up, tannic wines. They're like people who take time to get to know. With age they finally relax and show all the goodness that has been hiding underneath that curmudgeonly exterior. 1999 was an excellent Piedmontese vintage. This single-vineyard Monchiero, produced at the family run winery in the village of Castiglione Falleto, showed all that vintages quality, and was still surprisingly youthful. Dark cherries, rose petals cedar, spice, and yes that stinky good barnyard aroma came flowing at you. The flavor echoed those sensations, but I think this beauty is still a good five years away from its peak. It's all there and all good, it only needs time. Since I have a couple more of the '99s left at home and plenty of other bottles to distract me, I think I can wait!

Barbequed Chicken Thighs w/ Hickory Sauce. Summer's calling, are you listening?

2010-05-26T10:07:00.000-07:00

Just in case you're out of ideas on what to make this holiday weekend, let me help you out. Actually, this isn't Memorial Day specific. This stuff is so off the hook that it'll be your go-to 'que sauce all summer on a hell of a lot more than chicken thighs. I found this on epicurious when I was in a 'queing mood a few weeks ago. You know, those long ago days when the weather was actually nice enough to cook outside. On the off chance they come back...and I hear they might by Sunday...then this should be on your menu.

Barbequed chicken seems such a throwback to me childhood. Maybe that's why it just isn't something I look to do. I throw pretty much everything else on the Weber (including this perfect roast chicken), but in the last 5 years I think I've grilled chicken pieces maybe once. In my lust to keep trying new and more complicated recipes, I forget how damn satisfying a perfect piece of chicken slathered in sauce hot off the 'que can be. When I read this recipe and saw that it included ketchup and bottled barbeque sauce I was a bit skeptical. Seemed a little too easy, not "complicated" enough. And I know there's plenty of you bbq purists our there who just quit reading. Well, forget that self-important shit because when all the other ingredients get thrown into the pot and slowly simmer together, this is absolutely amazing. It just might be the best 'que sauce I've ever had, and several friends I served it to seemed to agree! The chix thighs were the eprfect vehicle for this, but I'm guessing it will be equally happy dripping off some ribs or slow cooked brisket (Dave, do you hear me? Time to fire up one of your famous briskets!!).
*** *** *** *** ***
Barbecued Chicken Thighs with Brown Sugar-Hickory Sauce
Bon Appétit | July 2004

yield: Makes 6 servings

ingredients: 1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 cup bottled chili sauce
1/2 cup bottled hickory-flavor barbecue sauce
1/2 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 teaspoons onion powder
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

12 chicken thighs with skin and bones

method:
1-Bring first 10 ingredients to boil in medium saucepan, whisking to blend. Reduce heat to low; simmer 10 minutes. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

2-Clean grill rack. Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Place chicken on grill, skin side down; cook until skin browns, about 8 minutes. Turn chicken over and continue grilling until cooked through, about 8 minutes longer. Transfer 1 cup barbecue sauce to small dish. Brush skin side of chicken with sauce from dish; turn skin side down and cook 2 minutes. Brush chicken with more sauce; turn skin side up and grill 2 minutes. Arrange chicken on platter. Serve with remaining sauce.

A satisfying suburban Monday at Taqueria Ochoa's

2010-05-25T10:58:00.000-07:00

I've got this sweet little gig going on Mondays. See, now that w is back at work and I have C-boy to myself all day, I get to fill his head with all sorts of ideas. That foie gras is his friend. That baseball's St. Louis Cardinals are the spawn of Satan. That pots, pans, & plastic measuring cups will make the best toys ever. I think I may kstart reading aloud to him from Julia Child's "My Life In France". Got to start this boy out right, ya know? Then there is our lunchtime tradition, where we take the trek from SE PDX out to mom's work in Hillsboro so she can give him some food straight from the source, so to speak. The other good part of this tradition is w and I get to go to lunch at different places in suburbia...which is inherently a dicey proposition...made all the better by C-boy's newfound ability to sit quietly through the midday meal (I think he was just messing with us by starting this delightful new behavior right after we got back from France). So yesterday I was in the mood for Mexican, and had heard rumors of good things to be had out in the SW hinterlands. I put up a tweet asking for advice, and heard back from Nico who tipped me off to Ochoa's. He also forwarded me a link to a review from ExtraMSG's blog. w had seen some positive comments on Yelp, so we were in.

Walking into Ochoa's (if you Google it it comes up Taqueria Hermanos Ochoa's) you wouldn't expect much. The usual bright fluorescent lighting, tables and booths scattered around, garishly vivid red and white paint scheme, soccer games playing on a couple of TV's with the third TV tuned to Mexican soap operas. We got in line, where as you approach the order station/cash register there's a wall of pictures of what must be every dish they serve. Plus they have other written specials on notebook paper taped to the counter by the guy who takes your order. After reading Nico's tweet and MSG's rave about their huaraches with birria de chivo, which is slow cooked and shredded goat (pic left), I knew what I was having. w opted for the far less sure thing and had their chicken mole (pic below right). Both the mole and huaraches (with a Coke) came to a whopping $13. If this was good I wouldn't be able to afford NOT to go back! So we wheeled C-boy in his little Snap 'n Go stroller (man, I still can't believe I've become one of those people who wheels...happily no less...their kid through a restaurant. The shame......) over to a table under the soap opera TV, where all the cleavage-laden actresses look like they are just getting ready for their gig at a strip club, and who also seemed to hold some great fascination for C-boy's 4-month old mind, as he was smiling and giggling at the TV. Could be trouble later. Anyway, I wandered over to the salsa bar where they had four different, and very flavorful, house made salsas and some, unfortunately on this day, over-cooked chips for free consumption. The waitress (server/ expediter/ bringer of deliciousness?) soon came out with our plates of food (they hand you a receipt when you order with your number on it), and set before both of us were plates overflowing with south-of-the-border bounty. My huaraches, which are corn meal "sandals" were topped with a smear of refried beans and mounded with a savory, lightly spicy, and utterly tender pieces of shredded goat meat. It tasted somewhat like lamb, maybe a smidge more gamey, but seasoned so well. I loved it. w's mole was the real surprise. This is an iffy dish at most Mexican joints, where way too often it comes out thin, insipid, or poured out of a jar....or all three. Ochoa's version had real depth and loads of the spicy-chocolate flavor, and you could tell they spent some time putting it together. The mole was pooled around and atop a not-insubstantial pile of moist, tender chicken. It also came with several handmade tortillas and the apparently requisite....and very welcome...side of beans and rice. This was serious consumption, and considering my dish was $6 and w's mole was an insane $5, this was a crazy deal.

So very worth the drive, even with Hillsboro being this clusterfuck of old established neighborhoods, oddly placed strip malls, bad chain restaurants, and new, cookie cutter, tech-inspired housing developments. On a related note, a couple of weeks ago I went out and we got some takeout sandos (quite good) from the New Seasons in the Stepford Wives-like development of Orenco Station (which for the uninitiated is the most vanilla, unimaginative place I couldn't imagine living in. It feels exactly like a real life version of the town in that movie "The Truman Show") and we walked with Colman to Orenco's ridiculously named "Central Park". If the real Central Park in NYC had an ounce of self respect it would sue Hillsboro to quit besmirching its good name. So anyway, we're sitting on this open piece of overly manicured lawn surrounded on three sides by houses that look...with minor decorative details...EXACTLY like each other. I told w if you came home drunk...and you'd have to if you lived out there...you would never be able to find your house. On one end the "park" opens up, taking your eye out across an open, grassy field, and in a perfectly framed Hillsboro moment, in the near distance, rising like Big Brother and obscuring any possibility of natural beauty, is a giant Intel chip factory. Just so no one forgets who pays the bills around here!

Mmmm.....spicy beef granules!

2010-05-24T09:35:00.000-07:00

Great Value Hot and Spicy Beef Granules and 15 other fun things you can only buy at Walmarts in China.
Thanks for the tip buzzfeed & zesterdaily

Lunch in Paris: heaven on earth at Le Temps au Temps

2010-05-23T11:02:00.000-07:00

If there's a better way to spend a couple of hours than having an amazing lunch at a sidewalk table at one of Paris' hottest restaurants on a 70* afternoon, then I haven't heard of it. In the first of a long delayed (and what will be occasional) series of posts about our April trip to Provence and Paris, I am still having drool worthy memories of our lunch at Le Temps au Temps. Throughout our trip meals out were proving to be dicey affairs as our traveling companion was a fussy three month old who chose the start of our trip to start teething (which is everything it's cracked up to be in a "please god quit screaming" sort of way), so we were never quite sure what we were going to get. A calm little guy who sat quietly or a tornado of bad news and loud noises. Luckily...miraculously?...he sat/slept quietly in his stroller throughout our lunch at Le Temps au Temps. God was surely smiling on us.

Le Temps au Temps was at the top on my "eat list" in Paris. It has gotten rave reviews in the press, as much for the creative food dished out by chef Sylvain Sendra as for its astonishingly affordable prices. Both rumors proved to be true. LTaT has become an almost impossible get reservation for dinner since the dining room only has 24 seats, so lunch seemed a much better....we hoped....option. When we approached the narrow restaurant on Rue Paul Bert (home of another of my favorite Paris dining spots, Bistro Paul Bert), we were hoping that grabbing a table outside and being able to park our stroller on the sidewalk next to us wouldn't be a problem. The host inside was so very friendly and said "of course, no problem". My anticipation level immediately shot up about 20 points! Outside on the wall they had their menus of the day. A "Menu Midi" where for a mere 17.50 euros you could get a starter, entrée, and dessert; also posted was their regular dinner menu which was available at lunch where for just 29 euros you could have an entrée-plat-dessert. w was more than happy to have the menu midi, and since dinner was not an option I ordered off the 29 euro dinner menu. More is better, right?

After getting our bearing via a few sips of a refreshingly chilled bottle of some crisply delicious vin blanc of whose provenance I forget, we made our selections. Without much delay at, and with frequent peeks at C-boy to make sure he actually was sleeping, the deliciousness commenced. Entrées of croustillant de volaille au curry for w, and eminé de volaille au piment d'espilette pour moi. w's starter consisted of perfectly fried puff pastry stuffed with this sliced chicken & cheese and a drizzle of curry sauce. Mine was a wonderfully balanced and light bit of farfalle pasta with chicken bathed gently in a silky cream sauce. Of course they both qualified as salad courses since the plates also has a perky pile of greens!

Without saying anything both of us were thinking the same thought. If the starters were this good, how amazing will the plats be? Turns out pretty damn amazing! To prepare ourselves, since the bottle of white was reaching its inevitable demise, we ordered a half bottle of Cru Beaujolais to see us through (BTW- the LTaT wine list, like the food prices, offers much value). For her main course (god, I LOVE these three course French meals!) w ordered a filet of white fish that came sitting atop some earthy, buttery sautéed mushrooms, all of that surrounded by a smoothly textured and beautiful to look at pool of pomme de terre douce (a sweet potato purée). The fish was moist, cooked to perfection, the skin salty and crisply grilled, the whole so flavorful when all the ingredients were piled into one bite. My main was mind bogglingly good. The plate landed in front of me and I found myself staring at a drool inducing, softball sized piece of epaulé d'agneu confit (lamb shoulder confit). I swear my heart started racing. They set a knife down with my fork, but really the forchette sufficed. It slid through this unbelievably tender piece of lamb without the slightest resistance. Down through this ball of meaty goodness that had been glazed with a dark brown lamb sauce, on though the bed of buttery, lightly creamy vegetable base (I honestly forget what exactly they were. Not that it mattered!) and then, after being swirled in more of the sauce that had been drizzled around the whole dish, a bite of heaven that virtually rendered me speechless. The "Oh sweet mother of Jesus" moments dining out happen all too infrequently for me. This was blessedly one of them. One of the greatest dishes I have ever had. We were both alternately smiling with crazed satisfaction and shaking our heads in wonder. On top of all that it felt so heavenly to sit on a Parisian sidewalk bathed in the warm sun while sipping glasses of crisp white and fruit filled red and having this incredible food. To me the perfect vacation moment!

Then, since this train of edible delights wasn't quite ready to pull into the station, the desserts made their way to us. Mine was a moelleux chocolat avec banane sorbet. A rich molten chocolate cake with banana sorbet. Really, really terrific, again the flavors separately and together delicious. The showstopper, though, was w's sablé aux fruits, crème brulée. Now let me explain that crème brulée is w's holy grail dessert. She does not suffer substandard versions lightly. And now here before her was not only what she would later call a perfect crème brulée, but it was sitting ON TOP OF a sweet fruit tart. One bite in she said she was almost weeping. This was a creative, satisfying, absurdly good dessert. Just crazy, brilliant genius. The whole meal was one of the best we've ever had, and for the price was an absolute steal. About $75 U.S. for everything. Ridiculous. Should you find yourself in Paris with lunch open, please....PLEASE...make the attempt to visit Le Temps au Temps. Oh, and through it all, C-boy slept!
Below are the two menus. Click either pic to enlarge.

The HUB of Lower East Burnside?

2010-05-22T18:47:00.000-07:00

Reliable word on the lower East Burnside Street is that brewmeister Christian Ettinger of Hopworks Urban Brewing has found a spot for a new brewery/pizzeria in his first expansion from his malt-driven mecca on SE Powell Boulevard.
The building pictured above between SE 6th & 7th Avenue is being renovated, and as the photo shows the "editorial" staff of Exotic Magazine, the 'zine of the PDX stripper scene, will have to find new digs. That sad news aside (as if the printed media hasn't taken enough hits) this is without question going to be a huge boost to not only the LoBu area, but also to the beer driven hordes who worship at the altar of all that is organic and HUBbish!

Bar exam: The Martinez Cocktail

2010-05-21T10:22:00.000-07:00

In case you haven't figured it out by now I am a huge fan of the classics. Old Archie comics, early-60s American cars, the Three Stooges, hot dogs at the ballpark while watching my beloved Cubs sink into the abyss of another failed season, Schwarzenegger's early action movies. Speaking of Arnold, who among us can forget this classic exchange from "Total Recall":
Lori: "Doug, honey... you wouldn't hurt me, would you, sweetheart? Sweetheart, be reasonable. After all, we're married!" [Lori goes for her gun, Quaid shoots her in the head, killing her] Doug: "Consider that a divorce!"

You know, all the things that form America's cultural touchstones. And certainly not to leave off the historical cocktails from the early 1900s that shaped more minds than perhaps any other outside influence in the last 100 years. In my unending research to find out how we got from there to here I had read about Old Tom Gin, a slightly sweetened and lightly tawny colored form of my favorite cocktail fixin' that was very popular at pre-Prohibition bars. It had disappeared from American liquor shelves for decades (supposedly the closest thing to Old Tom that was available was Tanqueray Malacca gin before its untimely demise). I had read about its resurrection by a few artisinal producers, then a few weeks ago I was wandering the aisles of my local liquor store and saw that an Old Tom from Oregon's own Ransom Spirits (about $35) had a spot on the shelf (read about Ransom's distillation method and a bit of Old Tom history by clicking here). If for no other reason than to gain further historical perspective I had to buy my bottle. In the back of my mind I had remembered that my main influence of new and interesting ways to expand my libation library, The Washington Post's Jason Wilson, had done a piece about Old Tom that included the recipe for the Martinez Cocktail, the forerunner of so many good things in my life. Among Wilson's observations:
"Some crazy theories suggest that this was the original martini, but it was more probably a variation. In reality, all martinis are a variation on the Manhattan."
Whatever it was, whatever it inspired, the Martinez I made at home was a delicious peek into cocktails past and is absolutely worth searching out your own bottle of Old Tom. With that, here is Wilson's version of the classic Martinez....
***** ***** *****
Martinez Cocktail

ingredients:
Ice
1 1/2 ounces Old Tom Gin
1 1/2 ounces sweet vermouth
1 teaspoon maraschino liqueur
2 dashes orange or aromatic bitters
1 twist of lemon or orange peel, for garnish

method:
Fill a mixing glass halfway full with ice. Add the gin, vermouth, maraschino liqueur and bitters. Stir vigorously for at least 30 seconds, then strain into a cocktail (martini) glass. Garnish with the lemon or orange peel twist.

The Best Chocolate Cake Ever!

2010-05-20T14:17:00.000-07:00

You want to know a relationship deal breaker? If you start talking about dessert and somehow this wonderful person you thought was so cool suddenly blurts out "Oh, I don't really like chocolate cake." Suddenly a flashing red light goes off, and you're surprised they can't read the "WTF" blinking above your head. I mean, how much can they really enjoy life if they don't like chocolate cake. What are they going to say next "Oh, I'm not really into oxygen." Or the ultimate deal breaker: "I'm a vegan." I don't care how good the sex is, the chocolate cake rule has to be in effect.

Taking that into account, if you need to get your chocolate cake on, then this is absolutely the way to go. I was leafing through the April '10 Bon Appetit and saw the picture, then read the recipe. The cool thing about this one...well, there actually two cool things...is that it uses mayo instead of oil. I've had mayonnaise chocolate cakes before and they invariably are so moist and rich. Then the second thing that said "you must make me" was that the frosting calls for THREE STICKS OF BUTTER!!! Are you fucking kidding me? How could that ever be bad?? Then the best part: my birthday was coming up, and w, who is the baking queen of our house, kindly consented to make this for my dinner. To say that people were swooning would be a gross understatement. Cake this good defies description. Go ahead. Make it. One bite and you'll get it!
***** ***** *****
Chocolate Mayonnaise Cake
from Bon Appetit

ingredients:
Cake:
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 3/4 cups boiling water
2 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup sugar
1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
1 1/3 cups mayonnaise (do not use reduced-fat or fat-free)
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Frosting:
10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped
1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
3 cups powdered sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Special equipment: Three 8-inch-diameter cake pans with 1 1/2-inch-high
sides

method:
For cake:
1-Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour three 8-inch-diameter cake pans
with 1 1/2-inch-high sides. Combine chopped chocolate and cocoa powder in
medium metal bowl. Add 1 3/4 cups boiling water and whisk until chocolate is
melted and mixture is smooth.

2-Sift flour, baking soda, and baking powder into another medium bowl. Using
electric mixer, beat both sugars and mayonnaise in large bowl until well
blended, 2 to 3 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating until well blended
after each addition. Beat in vanilla. Add flour mixture in 4 additions
alternately with chocolate mixture in 3 additions, beating until blended
after each addition and occasionally scraping down sides of bowl. Divide
batter among prepared cake pans (about 2 1/3 cups for each).

3-Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, 30 to 32
minutes. Cool cakes in pans on racks 20 minutes. Run small knife around
sides of cakes to loosen. Carefully invert cakes onto racks and let cool
completely.

For frosting:
1-Place chopped chocolate in medium metal bowl; set bowl over saucepan of
simmering water and stir until chocolate is melted and smooth. Carefully
remove bowl from over water; let melted chocolate cool until lukewarm,
stirring occasionally.

2-Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until smooth and creamy.
Sift powdered sugar over butter and beat until well blended, about 2
minutes. Beat in vanilla. Add melted chocolate and beat until well blended
and smooth, occasionally scraping down sides of bowl.

3-Place 1 cake layer on platter. Spread 3/4 cup frosting over top of cake
layer to edges. Top with second cake layer; spread 3/4 cup frosting over.
Top with third cake layer. Spread remaining frosting decoratively over top
and sides of cake. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover with cake dome
and let stand at room temperature. Cut cake into wedges and serve.

Eating Portland: Beaker and Flask

2010-05-19T12:23:00.000-07:00

Hard to believe it's been so long since I've written up a restaurant visit. Of course it's also hard to believe the C-boy is four months old. Even harder to believe that last night was the first time we went out without him. Talk about needing to get our freaking lives in order! So last night, to celebrate the onset of babysitting and our anniversary, w and I made a beeline to the much-missed Beaker and Flask here in PDX. If you're a parent you'll get this, and if you're not you'll think "dude, that is SO pathetic", but walking in to B&F without having to worry about a possible baby meltdown was so nice. Sitting at the bar, where we used to love to sit pre-baby..."sniff-sniff"...was also pretty damn nice. Greeted most warmly by owner Kevin Ludwig, we couldn't wait to get our night started. A glass of prosecco was quickly ordered for w, and I told our bartender Michael Shea to make me anything he wanted to as long as it contained a healthy dose of gin. When you have the caliber of mix-masters behind the bar that Ludwig does, I'm always happy to put myself in their spirit soaked hands. I always know at B&F, where cocktails are taken with the proper seriousness, that I would be drinking well, and when I saw the beautifully delicious looking Bronx cocktail (upper left) set down gently in front of me I was not disappointed. The Bronx is a classic from the very old school. I've made them at home and love them. So with that important task taken care of, we checked out the menu and as always were impressed with the number of dishes that sounded so good.

Decisions had to made, so we settled on starters of the Grilled Pork Tongue (left) with asparagus and green garlic cream; Fried Baby Eel with smoked paprika aioli; and the Cabbage Roll with mushrooms, caramelized onions, lentil salad, and mustard. The restaurant wasn't too full so the dishes came out quickly, which was a good thing as the gin was already grabbing my head. All three were standout. The pork tongue was fabulous. I'm not a big tongue guy, having been frightened by the disturbingly hulking cow tongues I used to see wrapped in cellophane in too many meat markets. The B&F versions alleviated any squeamishness and was super tender with a nice meaty texture, and the perfectly crunchy-tender asparagus and sensuously silky garlic cream were a perfect match. The fried baby eel was basically a fried calamari-like plate with the more fishy eel in place of squid. Very good, but it's assertive taste may not be for everyone. w was not as into it as I was. Then there is the cabbage roll (below left). "Cabbage roll". For something that sounds so humble, this was an incredible creation. Looking like a greenish pudding set atop lentils, the cabbage as stuffed with mushrooms and onions and provided an earthy, richly flavored mouthful with every bite. The lentils had the just right bite, and the whole dish was held together by a light application of mustard mixed around the edges. A great beginning, and if you find yourself at B&F anytime soon, the cabbage and pork tongue are must have apps!

Kevin popped the cork on a bottle of 2005 Brick House Gamay Noir from my basement I brought along to have with dinner, and while we delighted in each rich sip we pondered main dishes to come. w has a hard time passing up razor clams, so her choice was made by the Fried Razor Clams with potatoes, octopus, candied orange peel, and aioli. I was torn between pork and fish, but since I've been on a bit of a meat binge at home lately I decided that the Pan Seared Halibut with carrot purée, English peas, radish, bay shrimp, and sweet herb crème fraîche. Sound good? FYI, the word to describe my plate of fish was "freakish". Each bite provided an "Oh my god" moment. Uber-seasonal, the sweet carrot puree and English peas were amazing, then to add in shrimp and the herb crème fraîche sent this off to a wonderland of sensory overload. I don't eat too many truly inspired plates of food. This was one of them! I am always impressed with chef Ben Bettinger's witchcraft in the B&F kitchen. This only confirmed that this guys skill set is right at the top of the PDX heap. And of course w's razor clams, which came stacked in most generous portion, were also excellent. Lightly battered and fried to a toothsome bite ("toothsome"...how very 1960's of me), a smear of aioli on top (ask for an extra side of aioli...you'll want it) with seasoned spuds and bits of baby octopus to make sure you aren't cheated in the flavor department, which isn't ever a problem at B&F. BTW-no pics of mains. Dark light and all we had was our iPhones.

Being very full and getting sleepy...our perpetual post-10pm state these days...we blamed out by not ordering dessert, and on the way home I was already kicking myself for not ordering the Panna Cotta with beignets and huckleberry sauce. But whose life isn't lived with some regret? In any event, this was another evening well spent. We were reminiscing with Kevin about how two years ago while he jumping through his endless series of hoops trying to get B&F open, that he actually bartended at our wedding (and don't think that wasn't off the hook!) and we were shaking our heads at how much all of our lives had changed. Us with a sweet new baby, and Kevin having a one-year old of his own in Beaker and Flask. Both things trying and rewarding at the same time. now he's running a successful restaurant, getting national press (the latest two mentions in the new issue of Food & Wine), exceeding everyone's expectations (except I'm sure his own) and having what I consider one of the top 4 or 5 dining experiences in town!

Life in Paris: Marché Beauvau & Marché d'Aligré

2010-04-21T06:53:00.000-07:00

I have a bunch of Provence stuff to post, but being out of touch with "le wifi" has screwed everything up. Wifi is back at our Paris apartment, so I had to document our visit to the fabulous, must see the indoor Marché Beauvau and its outdoor next-door-neighbor Marché d'Aligré. And pardon the amateurish camera work (shot with my fuji digital camera) and the hackwork commentary. But I AM an amateur AND a hack!

Seasonal on whole new level: Soba Noodles with shrimp & cilantro

2010-04-07T15:51:00.000-07:00

Seasonal cooking is obviously the big buzzword among a lot of the food obsessed these days. It doesn't quite have the annoyance factor of the term "locavore" quite yet, but it's coming. Not that it's a bad thing, but why does everyone have to trumpet it like it gives them so much faux-cred. Just cook locally and quit talking about it for christ's sake! San Diego chef and cookbook author Su-Mei Yu is also big on seasonal cooking, but on a whole new holistic level. Not exactly using what's in season, but cooking according to what the body needs to cope with the seasonal weather changes. A pretty fascinating concept, I have to say. Also pretty damned delicious if her soba noodles & shrimp dish are any indication. This was a cover recipe on a recent issue of Food & Wine Magazine. One of those things as soon as I saw the pic I was so in. Thai noodles and grilled shrimp? Oh yeah! So why is this so seasonally appropriate right now? According to Su-Mei when explaining why you don't want to skimp on the lime wedges "The sour juice protects the respiratory system in the early spring and cilantro helps when you're congested." Works for me. This is another one of those dishes that I'd be more than happy to be served in a good Asian restaurant. The best part for all of us at home is it's fast and simple and delivers so much for the minimal effort. Now I don't know if this was just w and my appetites the night we had it, but the recipe said it's enough for 6. Um, we finished every...last...scrap between us. Maybe she meant 6 small first course portions. Or 6 small Asians. Or maybe we're just overfed Americans. Whatever, just be forewarned you won't be able to stop eating this fabulous dish!
*** *** *** *** ***
Soba Noodles with grilled shrimp & cilantro
from Food and Wine Magazine/ Su-Mei Yu

ingredients:
6 ounces soba noodles
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons tamari
1 teaspoon agave syrup
2 large shallots, thinly sliced and separated into rings
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest, plus 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined (deveining not necessary, fyi- bb) Salt
2 scallions, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
Lime wedges, for serving

method:
1-Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook, stirring, until tender, 4 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water. In a medium bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the oil with the soy sauce, tamari and agave syrup. Add the noodles and toss.
2-In a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden brown and crisp, 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shallots to paper towels. Add the garlic to the skillet and cook over low heat until golden and crisp, 2 minutes. Transfer the garlic to the paper towels.
3-Light a grill or preheat a grill pan (but really, light the grill. the extra flavor is so very worth it!- bb). In a bowl, combine the lime zest and juice with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Stir in the shrimp and season with salt. Grill the shrimp over high heat, turning once, until glazed and just white throughout, 3 minutes.
4-Arrange the noodles on a large platter. Sprinkle with the scallions, cilantro, crushed red pepper and the fried shallots and garlic. Arrange the shrimp on top and serve with lime wedges alongside.

Rum Manhattan Cocktail: drinking in the face of adversity!

2010-04-02T17:02:00.000-07:00

Perhaps you heard the rumblings about the shortage of Angostura Bitters that reverberated through the cocktail world recently. To those who are partial to their perfect Manhattan Cocktail and fearing they might have to go without, this would be roughly the equivalent to learning to wean oneself off of mother's milk. The crux of the issue is that real angostura is the smallest component by far in a Manhattan, but the most important. Without its bitter tang on the finish you have a flat, flabby whisky/sweet vermouth concoction that really isn't worth the glass it's in. Among those who were trembling at the thought of being without a dash or two in their favorite libation was my friend K. K adores Manhattans. K's pursuit of the perfect Manhattan is roughly akin to the fervor with which zombies pursue raw flesh: not just something you like, but something you need to survive. That's why upon hearing about the impending, disastrous, possibly life-altering shortage, and with his own supply dipping precariously low, he set about scouring Portland for a resupply. He finally found some, all the way across town, at this obscure international grocery where he purchased both of their largest sized bottles, which was all they had on and. Seems it was almost all anyone in the city had on hand. Well being restored to his drinking world, K generously shares his bounty with others, myself included. Just don't ask for your Manhattan "extra bitter"!

I tell this story because I found out about the shortage after reading this story by Washington Post booze columnist Jason Wilson. Liking a Manhattan as much as the next right minded barfly, perhaps without K's ardency and certainly not his bloodhound like ability to sniff out the key ingredient, I of course looked for alternatives. Word to the wise: in a perfect Manhattan there is no substitute for Angostura brand bitters. The drastically different Fee Bros. doesn't even come close. So with that in mind and a bar cabinet devoid of the real thing, I took Wilson's advice and made his substitute version offered up in his column, the Rum Manhattan. Now calling anything a "Manhattan" without using whiskey & sweet vermouth is, to some (again your author included) somewhat blasphemous. I get my back up whenever I see a "Chocolate Martini", or even more wretched the "Appletini". Just call them what they are, a "gin cocktail". I felt the same way about the Rum Manhattan, but I was thirsty and really needed a drink. Besides, it's not like I'm the one who came up with the name. What I did end up with was a rather delicious, rich, full-flavored yet balanced drink that I would gladly make again. The addition of the maraschino liqueur, which is quickly becoming my favorite cocktail component, and the dash of orange bitters (thank you for that Fee Bros.) added the perfect counterpoint to the rum and Carpano Antica vermouth. Very worthy of the glass it was poured into, this was an intriguing, complex addition to my personal cocktail repertoire. Just don't call it a Manhattan in certain company!
*** *** *** *** ***

Rum Manhattan
from Jason Wilson/Washington Post

ingredients:
Ice
2 oz. good quality dark rum
1 oz. sweet vermouth, preferably Carpano Antica
1/2 teaspoon maraschino liqueur
Dash orange bitters
Orange peel for garnish

method:
Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with ice and add first four ingredients. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds and strain into martini glass. Garnish with an orange peel.

PDX Quick Bites: eating Portland!

2010-04-01T11:26:00.000-07:00

I haven't done a round-up of my latest eating exercises in a long time. Not because the baby is keeping us home, because we've found plenty of opportunity get out while the fat boy sleeps (not counting the hour I spent driving around with him after a meltdown at Red Onion while w stayed and ate with friends. She was kind enough to get me some noodles to go). So with that, here's some quick hits of things I've been loving...and one thing I don't....
* * * * * *
You could get two of the most satisfying lunches and dinners by going through two doors ten feet apart on SE 22nd and Division....
TASTE UNIQUE- I've raved before about the lunches I've had from owner Stefania Toscano's temple of Italian authenticity called Taste Unique. Her hole-in-the-wall house of all things Italian and homemade is really a remarkable place. Saying that, if I didn't love it before then the lunch w and I had there the other day cemented it's place in my food loving soul. The reason: the richest, most heart-stoppingly decadent plate of pasta I have ever had. Stefania's Spaghetti alla Carbonara should come with a coupon for an angioplasty. The plate appeared before me, all yellowy and sending billows of porkily aromatic steam skyward. I mentioned to w that they must have used a ton of egg yolk in the pasta to make it so yellow. Then one bite and I knew; it wasn't the pasta, it's the sauce. Bite after bite of decadence. I make carbonara all the time at home from a recipe from Marcella. It's not this. I don't even know if I could take this on a regular basis. I asked Stefania why hers tasted so wrong but so right. I said when I make it I use two eggs and yet it isn't anything close to what she made. She looks at me and simply says "Oh, you have to use no whites, only yolks." Lesson learned. If you see this on her lunch menu (served Tue-Sat only, 12-2), you have got to sample this bit of cholesterol-laden heaven. Amazing!
Also I have been hearing raves about Stefania's semi-regular, regional Italian dinners. One seating for 10 people, family style. Just $25. The comment I heard back from a couple who went to her Roman dinner was it was outstanding, but they had one complaint: there was too much food. Too much of Stefania's food? Um, count me in! Check her website for details.
* * * * * *
BAR AVIGNON- Just about 10 feet east from Taste Unique's front door we had another stellar meal at Bar Avignon that Colman thankfully slept through (although we've become the couple there for the 5:30 early dining scene). The highlight among many (the beet salad with fig salsa; the perfectly cooked bavette steak; the deliciously relaxing and spiritually invigorating Aviation cocktail Nancy made me) was one of those rare...for me..perfect pairings of food and wine. We ordered their sensational app of Persian Spiced Albacore Crudo with chickpeas and a meyer lemon olivada. Randy suggested trying a glass 2008 François Chidaine "Touraine" Sauvignon Blanc. Wow! Absolutely spot-fucking-on, Randy. I would happily stop by BA just to have these two together. The snap of the sauv blanc perfectly set off the creamy, fresh richness of the Albacore. If it is still on the menu, this a must try combo!
* * * * * *
GRUNER- I went on a happy hour exploration at the newish Grüner with a couple if buddies a few weeks ago. Grüner is chef Chris Israel's homage to the food style of the Alpine areas of Europe paired with the fresh, seasonal food of the Pacific northwest. We sampled a few dinner's worth of Happy Hour treats (followed, perhaps unwisely, by a full three course meal at Tabla), including a very credible burger, some beet-pickled hard boiled eggs...a great take on that dusty dive bar staple...beet ricotta dumplings, and a nice charcuterie plate among others. But the addictive must have HH plate: fried "smashed potatoes" with herb aioli. Perfect bar food...salty, hot, slathered with garlicky mayo. Loved them. There was almost a fight over the last couple of bites. Plus, if you ever wanted to explore the various white wines of this part of Europe, Grüner is your spot. Sommelier Dana Pickell has a list that includes, among other treats, 11 different rieslings on the night we were there. Whether this is a good or bad idea I'll leave to you, but from someone who feels that great European riesling continues to be the most under-appreciated food wine in the world I can only be impressed.
* * * * * *
EVOE- I've been seeing a new-to-me oyster about town. I first spied them at EVOE on SE Hawthorne, where chef Kevin Gibson's simple yet flavor bursting food continues to astound. The oysters we sampled there were Kusshi oysters from the east coast of Vancouver Island. I've always been a huge Kumamoto fan, but these Kusshi's have immediately leap-frogged to the top of my oyster infatuation list. Perfectly shaped, small, meaty, briny, and rich, if you see them you have to try them, preferably with a crisp glass of Muscadet or a crisp and zingy northern Italian white. We also loved Kevin's beautifully composed beet salad that may or may not still be on his blackboard menu. It doesn't really matter though, because at EVOE there are virtually zero bad choices!
* * * * * *
ACME COFFEE- out in our Hawthorne neighborhood we have recently taken to stopping by ACME Coffee House at 1431 SE 40th Ave (truly a coffee "house"., located in an old Portland home-turned-business) while out on our Colman walks. Warm, funky, very Portland where owner Ken will give you a warm welcome them whip out a perfectly made double shot of espresso made from the PDX's own Ristretto Roasters coffee. He pulls a great shot, just enough for a few sips instead of the usual cup of diluted swill that passes for far too many coffee joint's espresso. Check him out of you happen to be in need of caffeination in SE. As you can see from the pic Colman definitely needed a wake up call, but you know what they say about sleeping babies....
* * * * * *
GINO'S- In the VINO 'hood of Sellwood, Gino's continues to be a beacon of neighborhood conviviality and warm welcomes. w and I made a long overdue pilgrimage to Mark and Debbie Accuardi's corner spot and as always left very satisfied. Gino's isn't food that is looking to wow you or impress with some faux cutting edge attitude. It's just good, honest Italian inspired home cooking, allied with the best priced wine list in town (how about a 2000 Moccagatta "Bric Balin" single vineyard Barbaresco that was drinking beautifully for just $66!), now overseen by their most capable sommelier Tia Hubbard. After a starter of their legendary caesar salad, my tender filet came, as ever, perfectly cooked with two veg sides and a huge pile of creamy mashers. w was happily slurping down her briny bowl of Cioppino (make sure you order extra bread for sopping...you'll need it).
* * * * * *
APIZZA SCHOLLS- Ah, Apizza Scholls. How you madden and delight at the same time. How I love your perhaps best in America pies with their simple yet delicious toppings and blistered, blackened crusts. Your pungent caesar salad which is also one of the two or three best in PDX, preferably topped with anchovies. The fact that you serendipitously chose to open on Hawthorne a mere 3.5 blocks from my house (which thankfully negates the need to endure their unendurable waits as we go sign up, go home for a cocktail, then wander back down). And then...and then...there are nights like I experienced a couple of weeks ago. A night where after making plans to meet friends for a night of Apizza indulgence I volunteered to stop by and add our names to the list on my way home from VINO. I dutifully show up at 6:25, the wait was was already quite long but who cares, and look at the signup sheet where I am confronted by "NO MORE NAMES BEING TAKEN TONIGHT!" WTF?? No more names, at 6:-fucking-25 in the evening?? Now, I've seen Apizza pull this at 8 or 8:30, where it seems a tiny bit more logical, even though posted hours are open 'til 9:30. But 6:25? How could they possibly not have enough dough to the point where they would stop taking names before 6:30?? I know they do their own thing and think very highly of what owner Brian Spangler has accomplished, but again I have to say...6:25?? Was this a test of my love? Perhaps, because like a manipulative lover they know I will keep coming back. Yet I feel for those who drove across town thinking they had plenty of time only to be slapped upside their unsatisfied appetites. If not for me, Apizza, then for them: there really is no excuse!

Still hungry? Not for long: Catalan Braised Pork Shoulder!

2010-03-30T12:48:00.000-07:00

I told you next post would be about the accompaniment to that pile of spinach you've been staring at for the last several weeks. So finally, with a fair bit of embarrassment and apologies if your spinach with raisins and pine nuts has been sitting out getting colder and slimier for the last 31 days waiting for the followup, here it is!
Falling under the category of all good things are worth waiting for and yet another hit from Anya von Bremzen's "New Spanish Table" cookbook, where all has been delicious and...so far...not one disappoint on our plates. This also only confirms what I've been saying ad nauseum that I have come to the conclusions that pork shoulder is easily the best bang-for-the-buck chunk of animal flesh going. Actually, leaving price out of it, it is one of the best cooking/eating experiences at ANY price! This particular dish is amazing, another "restaurant quality" plate of food that is thrills your palate with that perfect savory and sweet combination of flavors allied with fork tender chunks of pork shoulder. So easy, and with a luscious sauce and perfectly delectable leftover potential should you and your guests somehow not finish every bite! Oh, and don't forget some crusty bread for this most sop-worthy of sauces.
*** *** *** *** ***
Catalan Braised Pork Shoulder With Dried Fruit
(Porc Guisata Amb Fruita Seca)
"Moist slow cooking brings out the best in a humble cut like pork shoulder,
making it fit for the most festive occasions. The sauce, enhanced with dried
fruit and a whiff of cinnamon, is classically Catalan. Try to get
best-quality organic dried cherries and apricots, ones that have some
tartness. If you're using ordinary dried fruit, you might want to reduce the
amount slightly, so the dish doesn't come out overly sweet. Alternatively,
you can add a splash of red wine vinegar to the sauce at the end. The dish
is best made ahead; cool the pork in the sauce and slowly reheat it."- AvB

SERVES 6

ingredients:
1 boneless pork shoulder, such as Boston Butt (about 4 pounds, trimmed of
excess fat)
salt & freshly ground black pepper (kosher or sea)
2 medium garlic cloves, crushed with a garlic press
2 to 3 tablespoons light olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 carrot, diced
1 cup peeled white pearl onion, thawed if frozen
1/4 cup kirsch (or brandy)
2 cups full-bodied dry red wine (with a lively acidity)
1 cup stock (beef or chicken or both)
3/4 cup pitted dried sour cherries
1/2 cup dried apricot (preferably Californian, halved or quartered if large)
1 large bay leaf
1 small piece cinnamon stick
2 fresh rosemary sprigs

method:
1. Preheat oven to 325º.

2. Using kitchen string, tie the pork shoulder crosswise, spacing the ties 1
inch apart. Rub the pork generously with salt and pepper and the garlic.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 5 to 6 quart flameproof
casserole or Dutch oven over high heat until almost smoking. Add the pork
and cook until richly browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the
remaining oil while the pork browns, if the casserole looks too dry.
Transfer the pork to a bowl. Add the chopped onion, carrot, and pearl onions
to the casserole and brown well, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the kirsch and cook
over high heat until it is reduced to about 1 tablespoon, about 1 minute.
Add the wine, beef stock, cherries, apricots, bay leaf, cinnamon stick, and
rosemary sprigs and bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the casserole to
dislodge the brown bits. Season the sauce with salt to taste.

4. Return the pork to the casserole. Cover the casserole tightly and
transfer it to the oven. Bake the pork, turning it once or twice, until it
is very tender and an instant-read thermometer registers 165º, about 1 1/2
hours.

5. Transfer the pork to a plate and cover it with foil to keep warm. Remove
and discard the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, and rosemary sprigs. Transfer the
casserole to the stove top and cook the sauce over high heat until it is
slightly syrupy, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Remove the string from the pork and discard it. Cut the pork into slices
and arrange on a serving platter. Pour the sauce over the pork and serve.

Cooks note: I picked up the dried fruit for the usual extremely reasonable prices at Trader Joe's. And if you're not using frozen peeled pearl onions then you are a prep masochist who needs counseling!- bb